Completed: A Chambray Hawthorn

10 Jul

I know, like, everyone and their freakin’ MOM seems to have one of these dresses made up in chambray. I’m just following the crowd here, ain’t no shame in that. But there’s a pretty good reason why we all seem to gravitate toward the same fabric for the same pattern – it’s just such a perfect marriage of the two. Check it out:

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

If you haven’t been able to guess it yet, this is the Hawthorn from Colette Patterns. A simple and flattering style that I’ve loved ever since it came out – this is my third one, actually, although it’s been nearly a year since I last touched the pattern (see versions one and two here). I’ve been planning a few versions since, and chambray was one of them – although I had a helluva time trying to find a good chambray. But here it is! I found it!

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

My chambray actually came from the NYC Garment District – I picked up a couple of yards while Clare & I were chatting up Sam. I know Trice also bought some, because I totally talked her into it (no shame). At the time, I wasn’t exactly sure what I would make with the fabric – but I knew it would end up something button-down inspired. Either a shirt or a shirtwaist, but definitely something that would take advantage of the crisp hand and beautiful cotton goodness. I bought two yards, washed it when I got home, and it’s been sitting on my shelf ever since.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

This particular fabric very nearly almost became a button down shirt instead of the Hawthorn it blossomed into. Like, much closer than you think – I actually had the fabric on my cutting table, with my beloved Butterick 5526 pattern, and decided at the very last minute to use this fabric to make the dress instead. I wanted a chambray button down as well (and I definitely ended up with one… out of a different chambray. More on that in another post, though!), but I realized that this fabric was simply too thick to wear as a shirt in the summer time. The chambray La Sylphide I made last year barely gets worn in the summer, as it’s just tooooooo freakin’ hot! But for the purposes of a dress, this particular fabric was perfect. So I swapped out the pattern for the Hawthorn, and got to making it happen.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

There’s not much to say about the pattern itself – like I said, I’ve made the pattern before, so I don’t really have anything new to add to the table, in terms of reviewing. All fitting changes I made in my previous versions were used for this Hawthorn, and it was pretty straight forward sewing for the most part. However, my pictures turned out kinda nice (well, I think so! Good hair day!), so you have to look at all of them anyway. Sorry!

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

One thing I did that ended up being unintentionally hilarious was when I tried to lower the bust darts. I remembered from previous versions that they are a little high in this dress – and kind of look nipply if you catch the light right. So I redrew the point about 1″ below where they were marked on the pattern, and went about sewing as normal. Except, I dunno what happened exactly, but they ended up WAY too low! Which was a shame because they were the perfect little boob shape, just in an area where boobs (well, my boobs) don’t really belong. Before you start scrutinizing my boobs in these photos, I should mention that I fixed the dart issue. So there’s that. I don’t know where I was going with that story. Boobs.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

Man, this fabric was SO MUCH FUN to work with! It’s a beautiful cotton chambray, so it presses like an angel (not sure how that would work exactly, but let’s just roll with it) and it takes well to topstitching. It’s also lovely to wear in the summer here – breathable, and a little lightweight (but still feels like a good weight for a dress). I feel like I say this with every make I, er, make, but this is totally my new favorite dress.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

The collar is so good for all those tiny brooches I have that I never wear. Like this insect brooch.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

The color also goes really nicely with my hair, yeah?

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

I think a dress like this would be good for traveling, as it’s one of those neutral-type pieces that provides a nice background to whatever other garb you are throwing on (cardigans, jewelry, shoes, etc), so you can wear it multiple times without people judging you. You know, like those ~travel articles~ in magazines that tell you to bring a classic black/white/denim/whatever solid-colored dress so you can mix up your jewelry and shoes and look like you actually brought 10 outfits? Except, I never really have a good neutral dress like this – almost everything I make has patterns, and those that are solid (such as my navy cotton sateen version of this) still feel like they really only have 1-2 pairs of shoes or whatever that ‘go’ with them. This dress, though, feels like the equivalent of blue jeans and a white tshirt. I kind of want to wear it for a week straight just to see how many different ways I could style it.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

The wood buttons are from Fashion Sewing Supply, by the way! Last time I ordered interfacing from them, I ordered a couple of packets of buttons as well so I could play around with them in garments. All the buttons are shirt buttons, but they have some cool ones that aren’t so cool-looking they look kind of cheap (does that make sense? Main reason why I generally stick with plain white buttons. NOW YOU KNOW MY SECRET, I’m afraid of looking cheap!). I had no real plans for these when I ordered them, but they look beeeeautiful with this chambray!

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

The armholes are finished with bias binding. And check out that topstitching! I recently bought myself a topstitching foot for my Bernina, and I’ve been having a lot of fun using it to get super precise stitching. I mean, how good does that look? ALL IN THE FOOT, BABY!

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

As with my other two Hawthorns, I respaced my button holes so they didn’t interfere with the waist seam. There is a hook and eye at the seam to keep it closed invisibly; this way I can still wear belts with the dress.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

I kept things simple with the construction and finishing and just used my serger to finish the raw edges.

Chambray Colette Hawthorn

And that’s it! I’d love to go through with my forever-planned other version of this dress – plaid with long sleeves. Wouldn’t that be so nice? Although it’s definitely too hot to think about sleeves right now (as Landon would say – “Sun’s out; guns out”), so I’ll stick with the sleeveless for now πŸ™‚

54 Responses to “Completed: A Chambray Hawthorn”

  1. PendleStitches July 10, 2014 at 7:25 am #

    Love it! It’s the perfect summer dress!

  2. Nilla July 10, 2014 at 8:03 am #

    That dress looks so flattering! Congrats on a very successful make πŸ™‚

  3. Librarian Lavender July 10, 2014 at 8:05 am #

    Great dress and again the color goes so well with your hair!

  4. the F girl July 10, 2014 at 8:20 am #

    Love it! The colour and the shape, very flattering for you!

  5. eggrah01 July 10, 2014 at 8:23 am #

    Love the dress, and your bee brooch is super adorbs!

  6. juliettemijeon July 10, 2014 at 8:27 am #

    Great dress! Sure, we’ve seen a lot of versions in chambray, but yours really looks awesome! I’m actually currently sewing a Hawthorn for the Outfit Along, which I’m making in navy swiss dot cotton voile.
    And that’s funny to say, but when I think about making a long-sleeved version, I also see it in plaid (flannel, to be precise!)
    In other words, I really like your hair in this color!

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 5:52 pm #

      Oooh, that sounds so lovely! I mean, but let’s be real – anything navy swiss dot voile would be lovely πŸ™‚ Can’t wait to see your Hawthorn!

  7. sallie July 10, 2014 at 8:27 am #

    This is just perfect! I love it! The buttons are awesome, and your hair looks killer! I’ve had a major soft spot for the Hawthorne for a while now – I should just bite the bullet and buy the damn pattern and make it up!

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:04 pm #

      Yes, yes you should! It would look killer on you!

  8. SeeKatSew July 10, 2014 at 8:38 am #

    Yes, that is perfect chambray. Why is it so hard to find?? It should be a basic, a mandatory stock in all stores. Anyway, love this dress and those buttons are perfect.

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:06 pm #

      I have no idea! I always have the hardest time finding good basics – I guess they’re harder to get because there isn’t anything embellishing it and making it seem nicer than it is haha πŸ™‚ Chambray should definitely be a mandatory fabric at all stores, though!

  9. Heather Lou July 10, 2014 at 8:40 am #

    I want this. 8 sizes bigger. Chambray rules – i have a few yards burning a hole in my closet.

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:06 pm #

      Well then you should totally make one and we can be twinssss πŸ˜€

  10. lifeisjustduckie July 10, 2014 at 9:03 am #

    I love this dress! I always look at Chambray in the stores but I can never find the perfect one…one day though. The Hawthorn looks fantastic made up with it and I would definitely wear this dress all the time.

  11. justsewtherapeutic July 10, 2014 at 9:11 am #

    Really cute and your hair does look fabulous! I had a pointy nip problem with my first Hawthorn, didn’t realise how bad it was until I saw my MMM photos! πŸ˜₯

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:07 pm #

      Haha I know what you mean! I almost have pointy nip in these photos, but I swear it doesn’t look bad in real life. Sometimes the pictures make things look worse, drives me crazy!

  12. kristiellkay July 10, 2014 at 9:12 am #

    ” I kind of want to wear it for a week straight just to see how many different ways I could style it.”

    OWOP that shit!

    I freaking love those buttons. And the dress. And your hair. Obviously. And this might sound stupid, but how do you sew on the hook & eye deal so that it doesn’t show on the right side? My (crappy) stitches are always visible.

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:15 pm #

      Thinking about it! Can I handle wearing the same thing every single day? Actually… probably hahaha.

      I make sure that when I’m sewing my hook and eye, I only grab the underlayer of fabric and don’t take any stitches through the top layer so it doesn’t show πŸ™‚

  13. Blue Sunday July 10, 2014 at 9:26 am #

    I love the top stitching here! Great job. I also like your choice in color of the Chambray. Bravo!

  14. Aleksandra @ Liveaboard Takes the Suburbs July 10, 2014 at 9:30 am #

    This is a perfect neutral! I am so obsessed with chambray lately, it’s not even funny. It’s like the perfect fabric.

    Glad to hear the FSS buttons worked out! I’ve considered ordering them a couple times and always wussed out. Twenty-five is a lot of buttons, yo!

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:46 pm #

      Yeah, I love them! They are really nice and look very high quality πŸ™‚ I love that they come in such big packs – and they’re cheeeap haha! I hate trying to find decent neutral buttons that don’t look cheap, so it’s nice to get a pack that has a lot in it haha πŸ™‚

  15. smonakey July 10, 2014 at 9:34 am #

    I want you to know that just before I got to the “goes with my hair” comment, I thought, “wow, that goes so well with Lauren’s hair!”. Psychic reading…. I do love the Hawthorne in chambray. It makes it the perfect summer dress.

  16. shanniloves July 10, 2014 at 9:38 am #

    I’ve had a chambray in my stash for months now with the Hawthorne in mind. It keeps getting pushed down the queue and now after seeing yours I’m asking myself WHY is that happening!!?? This will be first on my list when I return from vacation. So expect to see another copycat πŸ˜‰

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:47 pm #

      Yeah!! I can’t wait to see it! Chambray Hawthorn twinz~!

  17. daydreamer42 July 10, 2014 at 10:05 am #

    I love it! Chambray tops always confused me, you can’t wear them with jeans (too much denim), but they seem to casual for other pants. (I do like button downs with a maxi, though). However this dress just seems so perfectly summery!

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 6:57 pm #

      I know what you mean! I’m working on a wardrobe of solid-colored bottoms specifically for that reason πŸ™‚ Wearing a chambray top with jeans just feels waaay too Canadian Tuxedo haha πŸ™‚

  18. Sandra July 10, 2014 at 10:51 am #

    Super! IΒ΄ve resisted the Hawthorne until now, but this is drawing me in!

  19. Tracy July 10, 2014 at 10:52 am #

    How wide was your fabric that it only took 2 yards?

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 7:00 pm #

      It was pretty wide – 55″-60″? I don’t remember. I do know that I actually used a bit less than 2 yards – maybe closer to 1.5 yards πŸ™‚

  20. Debbie July 10, 2014 at 11:23 am #

    Love it! I have been debating making the Hawthorne and in Chambray as well. I have now decided what I am making this weekend!! I know I am being a copycat, but I live far enough away!!

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 7:00 pm #

      No worries, join the Chambray Hawthorn club, yo! πŸ˜€

  21. Anonymous July 10, 2014 at 12:22 pm #

    Supa-cute! I have a chambray shirtdress too (altho it’s not the Hawthorn), and I wear it about once a week. Perfect in hot weather, and it seriously goes with errythang. πŸ™‚

  22. Jodie July 10, 2014 at 12:45 pm #

    So gorgeous! And you’re so right about the “jeans & t-shirt” looks – this dress suits the bill perfectly.

  23. beebeesvintagedress July 10, 2014 at 1:01 pm #

    Stunning! I love the classic look. I’ve had Hawthorne forever and never made it! Now Where is my Chambray?

  24. Ruthie July 10, 2014 at 1:41 pm #

    So, yes. Chambray is amazing. People have covered the important comments about the buttons, the color. Just, um, would it not wrinkle when traveling? I don’t trust cotton as far as I can throw it.

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 7:07 pm #

      Haha yeah, it definitely wrinkles-but I think chambray looks ok with a few wrinkles (kind of like linen, although it doesn’t wrinkle nearly as badly as linen does!). I’d rather wear a breathable fabric and deal with resulting wrinkles, than a wrinkle-less fabric that doesn’t breathe well (I also sweat a loooot haha), personal preference! The good part about a wrinkly fabric is that it *usually* can have the wrinkles eased out pretty easily, even by hanging it in the bathroom while you take a hot shower haha πŸ™‚

  25. renee July 10, 2014 at 2:43 pm #

    i totally thought, ‘her top stitching looks amazing’. And, then read you got the Bernina foot. I have gotten the best top stitch of my life.

    • LLADYBIRD July 10, 2014 at 7:08 pm #

      YOU are the reason why I bought that stupid foot! Ha! AND I THANK YOU! Let me know if you buy any other feet that I am missing in my Bernina box haha πŸ™‚

  26. Kimberly July 10, 2014 at 7:36 pm #

    That is some *fabulous* topstitching. so even πŸ™‚

  27. Lynne July 11, 2014 at 5:29 am #

    Gorgeous! This really is a great pattern, and I really must get around to making myself another Hawthorn.

  28. homemaker4hire July 11, 2014 at 12:45 pm #

    Dang, I just joined the ranks of Chambray Hawthorne too, and am ready to wear it everysingledayforever because it’s seriously the best! Tried out the bias bound armholes using your tute (and it worked out FREAKING FAB), and did western pearl snaps down the front instead of buttons. I know, wardrobe malfunction waiting to happen but zero fucks given, because I’m so in love with this dress!

    Also, this looks amazing with your lovely violet locks!!

  29. Jenny July 13, 2014 at 9:04 am #

    Well, I can totally vouch for the awesome travelling properties of a denim/ chambray button down- am killing time at the airport in mine as I type!! So useful.

    And how satisfying is it when you nail your button choice? They look perfect!

  30. Tilly Buttons July 13, 2014 at 9:32 am #


  31. Amanda July 15, 2014 at 2:31 pm #

    The paragraph on boobs cracked me up. Also, great dress! I don’t have this pattern, but it’s super cute.


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