Ok, before I go any further, let me just address the elephant in that room that is my hair in these pictures.
This is what happens when you put your hair up in Heidi braids (or, as much of a Heidi braid as I can manage with my length – or lack thereof) and leave them for 24 hours straight (yep, I even slept in ’em). When I took them down the next morning, my hair was a glorious lion’s mane according to the mirror. Looking back at these pictures… err, maybe not so much. Lying-ass mirror.
Another thing I should point out is that I’ve basically given up on trying to hide the camera remote.
With all that out of the way – let’s talk about my dress!
This is the Hawthorn from Colette Patterns. GUYS, I LOVE THIS PATTERN. I love it so much, I’ve already planned two more versions.
I always always love the patterns that come from Colette – even if the shape of the garment isn’t specifically something I would wear (the Laurel falls in this category, although seeing everyone’s versions pop up during that epic contest has really made me reconsider what I think I can’t wear!), the styling of the photoshoots is just lovely. Of course, this is something I would absolutely wear – I love me a good shirtwaist, and this one has some pretty and unique details that set it apart from other shirtwaist patterns.
For my dress, I cut a size 0 based on the finished measurements. I did not make a muslin – just a quick tissue-fit to make sure everything looked right. For future dresses, I may shave a bit off the side seams as the waist is about 1/2″ too big. It fits fine in these photos, but that’s because I moved the buttons to compensate for the width. A quickie fix for sure, but definitely not want to want to do with every Hawthorn I make!
I also took about 4″ off the hem. It originally hit me at knee-length, but I like my dresses shorter 😉
I also changed the button position at the waist, as I plan on wearing this dress with a belt so I don’t want a button right by the waistline seam. I raised the lowest bodice button just a smidge, omitted the top skirt button, and slightly raised the next-highest skirt button to compensate for the gap. Hope that makes sense! I also added a hook and eye closure at the waistline to keep things smooth.
The only thing I don’t absolutely loooove about this dress is the bust darts – or, rather, the bust dart puckers. Yeesh! I tried to smooth them out as best I could, but my fabric must have a bit of poly in it because I was getting a bit of shine whenever I pressed them, in a most inappropriate place. Restitching the dart tips helped a little, but you can see they still need a little bit of work.
I just LOVE this fabric and I think it’s perfect for a dress called Hawthorn 🙂 Funny, I picked this up at my local fabric store during their biannual sale – it was in the remnants sections and heavily marked down (I think I paid $8 for a little over 2 yards). I had no idea what I was going to do with it, but I bought it anyway – I mean, it has embroidered cherries on it! Later that week, Sarai contacted me and asked if I wanted to see pictures of the newest Colette pattern before it was released to the masses, and as soon as I downloaded those pictures, I knew I had found the perfect match.
My buttons are from the flea market and I have been hoarding them for ages. They are sparkly!
I love the tiny collar, but I will warn you that it was a bear to get to lay right – with the layers of the collar and the facing and the dress, that’s a lot of bulk! I understitched as much as I could, as well as tacked the facing down at the shoulder seams and back neck darts. This seemed to help, although my next go will involve some aggressive grading as well.
Anyway, I’m really happy with this dress and how it turned out! I can’t wait to try a sleeved version (won’t this look incredible in plaid?? Oh GOD, I love plaid), or maybe even redraft the collar for a more peter pan style. Lots of possibilities here!
As a side note – I’m QUITE a bit late to the party here, but I’ve recently joined Kollabora and I can’t get enough of it! It has totally filled the Craftster-shaped hole in my heart, and then some 🙂 Who else is on Kollabora? Let’s be friends!
LLADYBIRD 
JEALOUS! I love this!
Pretty! I made cherry-jelly (marmalade? We call it confituur) today (and burned my finger whilst doing it-boo), and have been pouting all through the process because I’m too broke to purchase the hawthorn pattern right now, and since it’s been popping up EVERYWHERE I can’t get it out of my head. So I’ll just lust my eyes on your dress, but not in a creepy way 🙂
This is so super cute on you!!! And your hair comments made me LAFF SO MUCH! You’re always good for a chuckle ;o)
And omg, I forgot all about Craftster! I practically lived there!
Omg I bet we followed each other on Craftster! Haha!! 🙂
Yours is really cute. I, too, love this pattern and found it incredibly easy for a shirtwaist. I think I will put pockets in my next version as I’m so used to having them in every pattern. I used a Liberty lawn and I didn’t use fusible web for my collar and it sits beautifully.
Good idea on omitting the fusible web at the collar. I may try that next time 🙂
ADORABLE!!! The dainty little collar is what makes me want to sew this dress the most. Oh, and of course the fact that you look amazing in it definitely helps sell the pattern lol
WordPress just ate my comment! Sorry if this posts twice.
This is super cute! You were the first person I thought of when I saw this pattern, I know how you love shirtwaist dresses. And they’re just so great on you! The fabric is adorable, too. I’ve been eyeing black this summer in combo with other colors, though I haven’t had any sewing time to do anything about it. Seeing this definitely is keeping it in my head!
I wish there was a good fix for that bust dart thing… I have a RTW bra I’d like to do it on. ;P
Luuuuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrve it!
But I’ve got to ask…do you every sleep? Do you have Superman speed sewing skills? How? How do you make so many beautiful things and have a life too? 😉
Not only do I sleep, I go to bed early like an old lady 🙂 10pm is late for me HAHA. I think I’m just a quick sewer – and this pattern, girl, it’s easy. I think it would be quick for anyone. There aren’t a lot of pieces and the construction is very straight forward.
I think I need to go to bed earlier! 😉 I am in AWE!
I love your Hawthorn! The cherry print is the best, too!
After seeing all the versions pop up, I’m realizing that I misplaced my top buttons. My center front has a V and everyone else’s seems to have a small straight section at the top between the two v’s. *Oops*.
My bust darts are doing the same thing on my chambray version (but on my lighter wight fabric, they’re perfect.)
I almost pushed my button placement like that too, until I looked at the line drawing and realized there was supposed to be a space. So you’re not alone 😉
I’ve been eyeballing this one… Yours may push me over the edge. Love it, you look super cute!
So cute, love the cherry pattern.
You so got yours done before me. Mine . . . this week me thinks. Right now, I have a dress and a shirt to finish. The pattern and fabric have only been there for forever.
L O V E…it!!!!!
Oh god you make me laugh. That “deal with it” gif is something I mentally imagine at least twice a day. I have also given up being coy with my remote. Love your version – I’m not sure this is a style for me but I love seeing other people rock it.
Me too! I love that deal with it gif… it basically sums up my life most of the time.
I was totally waffling on whether or not to pick this pattern up, but this is the kick in the pants I need to get it! The cherry fabric is killer.
I’m sorta over summery dresses right now (I’ve got 3 in progress, I’m so bad!), and I bet this dress would look great in lightweight wool…fabric suggestions be damned. 😉 I also want to make a winter Rooibos, and a corduroy Anise…Colette mega-haul, here I come.
I am totally making my winter version in a lightweight wool (hoping I can find a good plaid wool). Omg now I want a cord version too. Will I ever run out of Hawthorn ideas?
So fun! I’m really excited to sew up a Hawthorn. I’m on Kollabora, too. I will add you (I’m Rosie Wednesday).
PS – I like the hair. Here in Texas, we don’t mind big hair, though. :0)
I really wasn’t fussed about this pattern when it first came out, but the more versions I see, the more it appeals, and your is no different. This is lovely and really suits you! I think it’s the collar and v neck I don’t like, but a Peter Pan collar would be a good alternative! I am on Kollabora as Grosgrain Green. Not got round to posting anything there yet though!
PS your hair is what mine looks like on a good day! I loved your hair shorter!
I loved it short, too, but honestly I don’t like styling my hair and I think it looks better long if I’m not going to be arsed to fix it every day. Plus, I need to be able to wear it up when I’m biking and running 🙂 I should just embrace my inner Rochelle and get a wig, ha.
This is so cute…I like it much better with a shorter skirt. Did you just remove length from the hem, or did you slash and overlap so as not to lose width?
I just trimmed the length off the hem of the skirt. I think it worked fine – I really like the width it is at now.
Wow, love the cherry fabric! Your collars look much better than mine! I’m glad to hear that someone else didn’t follow the exact button placement either- I half assed mine but it shows. Your buttons rock!
I’m hooked on the Hawthorn, too! Despite all the work it takes, I’m planning a fall one. Plus I bought a Simflex to help with the button spacing. Dress shirts galore are in order here!
Argh, I want one of those button spacers SO BAD. Don’t rub it in, now!! 🙂
Talking about what styles you normally don’t wear but then you reconsider because they look so fantastic all sewed up, yep that’s Hawthorn for me – not my cup of tea, but it’s so pretty on everyone else, you for example! The pattern is on my birthday wishlist and I hope I get it! Your version is so sweet with the cherries!
Lovely dress, and I love your fabric! Don’t think I’m quite up to full button down dresses yet, but I’m filing it away for future use! Camera remotes are annoying – I used to have an awesome tiny little remote for my 400D, but then I upgraded my camera to the 50D, and that remote doesn’t work with it 😦 why, canon?! Have just ordered much more complicated remote for that (looks kinda like yours actually), but the other one was so tiny and easy to hide! Also need to get the camera fixed before I can actually use it…oops…
I’m new to the remote world but it has changed my LIFE. No more taking 60+ self-timed shots (seems like a lot, but it’s hardly any when you consider that 90% of them are unusable!) and weeding through them. My remote isn’t very complicated – it just has a button, and a slider that does… something (I really should look at the instruction book!), and this giant-ass antennae, haha. I have a Canon G12, which is an older model – which means I didn’t have a lot of options when I was remote shopping. This one was only $25, so not too bad!
We are seriously on the same wavelength right now! Literally all of your makes are in my sewing queue (with fabric picked out and everything) and just waiting for me! If only I had super-human sewing skills like you…
Anyhow, love the cherries! They are too cute, and are freaking perfect for this dress.
They are great, I LOVED my other one (no antennae!). It works with every canon SLR except the 50D. Whyyyy?! I have a G10 as well, so maybe I’ll be able to use it with both 🙂 and the boyfriend won’t have to come and take photos of me every time I want them! Hehe, I never get 60 to choose between, because he normally gets bored after about 5…btw, so totally in love with your blog, it (and you) are awesome!
Oops, that totally should have been a reply above!
Cute fabric!
I’m working on one as well and I’m also having issues with the bust darts. I didn’t get wrinkles but they were a bit…umm…pointy. And ended in a really unfortunate area. There are instructions on the Collette website for how to drop the darts 1 inch under the apex of the bust, where they should be, and split them into two darts on each side. I thought it helped the overall appearance a lot.
Mine are a bit pointy too, although I think it’s more noticeable to me (looking down) than to someone looking straight at me. Thanks for the tip about the Coletterie tutorial; I remember seeing that but I had forgotten. I have a vintage shirtwaist with double darts and I love the way it fits, so redrafting this one to have the same effect would be great.
I also had pointy darts on this pattern. I split them in two, following the tutorial and it lays much much smoother!
Love it! Wonderful sewn and love the red shoes. So many of Hawthorn creators used red accents. I guess great minds think alike!
I love it! I have the pattern pieces cut out, just have to lay into my fabric, but I’ve been losing weight, so I am hesitant to sew with fancy fabric right now.
I am on Kollabora! I even designed a sweater that they showcased at Vogue Knitting Live in NY! I commented on this before, I met them at Gertie’s party after I did the craftsy dress, because you encouraged me to… Anyhow, lets be Kollabora friends! I’m under Rachel Haynes. (It’s a hell of an alias.)
Yessss I remember you!! I love that story so much 😀
The collar detail and neckline is adorbs. Love it
Well, you had no jealous to be jealous of my version, because yours kicks ass! I love the contrast of the dark fabric and the sweet cherries! I find it so surprising how many people commented on mine and your post saying they weren’t originally drawn to Hawthorn! I don’t get why at all, it’s so awesome! I honestly can’t wait to make loads more, as well as the blouse too!
Wonderful! I like the Laurel pattern a lot too
This is really cute on you, I haven’t had very good luck with Colette patterns (not designed for my straight up and down body type, ha) I am on Kollabora, under CutCutSew 🙂
Wonderful dress, great changes so you can wear a belt. I am with you Kollabora is fantastic.
I had to un-lurk just to say that this is one of the most flattering dresses on you. I love the fabric and the shorter length. The red accent is just perfect.
This is gorgeous, but everything looks fabulous on you! I like your fabric choice.
When Colette released this pattern I didn’t much care for it. Now I’ve seen yours I see I was hasty. The pattern isn’t what I had thought it was. Somehow I got it into my head that it had waist gathers. Now I will have to get this!
Your hair isn’t that bad! Mine is often so awful I lazily conceal it under a wide headband.
Your Hawthorn is lovely! The more I see of this pattern, the more I want it.
Your Hawthorn looks great! I totally agree about grading the collar/facing area seams on the next one–I can’t believe that mine lays flat at all! But this is a great pattern and as always, you’ve done an amazing job of sewing it up.
Beautiful dress, beautiful work. I love the fabric and the way you styled the outfit in the photos. I think you are right that the bust darts are probably more noticeable to you looking down at them than to someone looking at you. I didn’t notice them until you called attention to them.
Cute dress! I just love those cherries. And, that remote! It’s huge! Mine is a tiny little thing, but I feel like I often have a weird hand claw in my photos from palming it after taking a shot. Yours rocks though. It looks like it even has an antenna. Awesome!
Very cute. I love it. The fabric fits this pattern perfectly. Oh dear another pattern on my wants list…
Nice one. You make me want Hawthorn now… dammit. I like Kollabora more and more…
Oh how I love your blogs! Always a few giggles in there, you make such gorgeous stuff and I learn something every time. thanks so much and keep em comin 🙂
I just can’t focus on the dress because I’m so distracted by the camera remote. If only it was hidden somehow. It’s just so big. Ha. Just kidding. I don’t think we’re going to notice. If I notice at all, I’ll probably wonder where you got such a tiny phone. At least you don’t rely on your phone for pictures like some dumb bloggers (ME).
The dress is so very cute! When I first saw the pattern, I wasn’t sure that it was a style that I would be interested in wearing, but you’ve changed my mind!
OMG this dress is adorable! The embroidered fabric is really perfect for the style. I hadn’t been convinced on Hawthorn, but seeing yours make me want one. : ) Congrats on a great dress!
stunning, currently working on a plaid after agonizing over which fabric to make this in
Well done on getting through to the second round. I have completed my plaid version- you can see it on Flickr and my blog
You are so lovey dovey with all these patterns lately that I think your next Vogue Patterns review is going to be all lovey instead of all “WTH?”
NEVER! 😉
I’m making a blouse version of Hawthorn with embroidery on the collar and cuffs – but now I’m worries I’m never going to get my collar to sit right if I’ve got embroidery to factor into the mix!
Just be really aggressive with your clipping, grading, and understitching. If you need to, you can tack the facings down in a few places too, to keep things in place. My collar has embroidery on it and I was able to get it pretty flat 😉
Amazing. Of course. And now my life won’t be complete until I have embroidered cherries in it.
Yep, you can’t go wrong with cherries..especially not embroidered ones. I love how it turned out, it is so pretty and flattering. My Hawthorn is still at the muslin stage. Actually the pieces aren’t even sew together! Maybe you’ve convinced me to get to it and stop being a scaredy cat.
This is totally adorable! That cherry print fabric is so perfect for a shirtwaist dress, and that tiny collar is the cutest. Love the flea market buttons, too. This pattern will be added to my queue now.
aaah.. i gasped when I loaded this post and saw the first picture of your Hawthorn. Your fabric choice is great. This is a gorgeous dress!