Completed: The Hawthorn Dress

26 Jul

Ok, before I go any further, let me just address the elephant in that room that is my hair in these pictures.

Hawthorn Dress

This is what happens when you put your hair up in Heidi braids (or, as much of a Heidi braid as I can manage with my length – or lack thereof) and leave them for 24 hours straight (yep, I even slept in ’em). When I took them down the next morning, my hair was a glorious lion’s mane according to the mirror. Looking back at these pictures… err, maybe not so much. Lying-ass mirror.

Hawthorn Dress

Another thing I should point out is that I’ve basically given up on trying to hide the camera remote.

deal with it

With all that out of the way – let’s talk about my dress!

Hawthorn Dress

This is the Hawthorn from Colette Patterns. GUYS, I LOVE THIS PATTERN. I love it so much, I’ve already planned two more versions.

Hawthorn Dress

I always always love the patterns that come from Colette – even if the shape of the garment isn’t specifically something I would wear (the Laurel falls in this category, although seeing everyone’s versions pop up during that epic contest has really made me reconsider what I think I can’t wear!), the styling of the photoshoots is just lovely. Of course, this is something I would absolutely wear – I love me a good shirtwaist, and this one has some pretty and unique details that set it apart from other shirtwaist patterns.

Hawthorn Dress

For my dress, I cut a size 0 based on the finished measurements. I did not make a muslin – just a quick tissue-fit to make sure everything looked right. For future dresses, I may shave a bit off the side seams as the waist is about 1/2″ too big. It fits fine in these photos, but that’s because I moved the buttons to compensate for the width. A quickie fix for sure, but definitely not want to want to do with every Hawthorn I make!

Hawthorn Dress

I also took about 4″ off the hem. It originally hit me at knee-length, but I like my dresses shorter 😉

Hawthorn Dress

I also changed the button position at the waist, as I plan on wearing this dress with a belt so I don’t want a button right by the waistline seam. I raised the lowest bodice button just a smidge, omitted the top skirt button, and slightly raised the next-highest skirt button to compensate for the gap. Hope that makes sense! I also added a hook and eye closure at the waistline to keep things smooth.

Hawthorn Dress

The only thing I don’t absolutely loooove about this dress is the bust darts – or, rather, the bust dart puckers. Yeesh! I tried to smooth them out as best I could, but my fabric must have a bit of poly in it because I was getting a bit of shine whenever I pressed them, in a most inappropriate place. Restitching the dart tips helped a little, but you can see they still need a little bit of work.

Hawthorn Dress

I just LOVE this fabric and I think it’s perfect for a dress called Hawthorn 🙂 Funny, I picked this up at my local fabric store during their biannual sale – it was in the remnants sections and heavily marked down (I think I paid $8 for a little over 2 yards). I had no idea what I was going to do with it, but I bought it anyway – I mean, it has embroidered cherries on it! Later that week, Sarai contacted me and asked if I wanted to see pictures of the newest Colette pattern before it was released to the masses, and as soon as I downloaded those pictures, I knew I had found the perfect match.

Hawthorn Dress

My buttons are from the flea market and I have been hoarding them for ages. They are sparkly!

Hawthorn Dress

I love the tiny collar, but I will warn you that it was a bear to get to lay right – with the layers of the collar and the facing and the dress, that’s a lot of bulk! I understitched as much as I could, as well as tacked the facing down at the shoulder seams and back neck darts. This seemed to help, although my next go will involve some aggressive grading as well.

Hawthorn Dress

Anyway, I’m really happy with this dress and how it turned out! I can’t wait to try a sleeved version (won’t this look incredible in plaid?? Oh GOD, I love plaid), or maybe even redraft the collar for a more peter pan style. Lots of possibilities here!

As a side note – I’m QUITE a bit late to the party here, but I’ve recently joined Kollabora and I can’t get enough of it! It has totally filled the Craftster-shaped hole in my heart, and then some 🙂 Who else is on Kollabora? Let’s be friends!


75 Responses to “Completed: The Hawthorn Dress”

  1. sassicandiandi July 26, 2013 at 11:09 am #

    JEALOUS! I love this!

  2. Dorien July 26, 2013 at 11:14 am #

    Pretty! I made cherry-jelly (marmalade? We call it confituur) today (and burned my finger whilst doing it-boo), and have been pouting all through the process because I’m too broke to purchase the hawthorn pattern right now, and since it’s been popping up EVERYWHERE I can’t get it out of my head. So I’ll just lust my eyes on your dress, but not in a creepy way 🙂

  3. nettie July 26, 2013 at 11:20 am #

    This is so super cute on you!!! And your hair comments made me LAFF SO MUCH! You’re always good for a chuckle ;o)

    And omg, I forgot all about Craftster! I practically lived there!

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 11:37 am #

      Omg I bet we followed each other on Craftster! Haha!! 🙂

  4. Anonymous July 26, 2013 at 11:32 am #

    Yours is really cute. I, too, love this pattern and found it incredibly easy for a shirtwaist. I think I will put pockets in my next version as I’m so used to having them in every pattern. I used a Liberty lawn and I didn’t use fusible web for my collar and it sits beautifully.

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 12:56 pm #

      Good idea on omitting the fusible web at the collar. I may try that next time 🙂

  5. Rochelle New July 26, 2013 at 11:33 am #

    ADORABLE!!! The dainty little collar is what makes me want to sew this dress the most. Oh, and of course the fact that you look amazing in it definitely helps sell the pattern lol

  6. Tasha @ By gum, by golly! July 26, 2013 at 11:34 am #

    WordPress just ate my comment! Sorry if this posts twice.

    This is super cute! You were the first person I thought of when I saw this pattern, I know how you love shirtwaist dresses. And they’re just so great on you! The fabric is adorable, too. I’ve been eyeing black this summer in combo with other colors, though I haven’t had any sewing time to do anything about it. Seeing this definitely is keeping it in my head!

    I wish there was a good fix for that bust dart thing… I have a RTW bra I’d like to do it on. ;P

  7. PendleStitches July 26, 2013 at 11:35 am #

    Luuuuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrve it!
    But I’ve got to ask…do you every sleep? Do you have Superman speed sewing skills? How? How do you make so many beautiful things and have a life too? 😉

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 12:58 pm #

      Not only do I sleep, I go to bed early like an old lady 🙂 10pm is late for me HAHA. I think I’m just a quick sewer – and this pattern, girl, it’s easy. I think it would be quick for anyone. There aren’t a lot of pieces and the construction is very straight forward.

      • PendleStitches July 29, 2013 at 2:54 am #

        I think I need to go to bed earlier! 😉 I am in AWE!

  8. zilredloh July 26, 2013 at 11:47 am #

    I love your Hawthorn! The cherry print is the best, too!

    After seeing all the versions pop up, I’m realizing that I misplaced my top buttons. My center front has a V and everyone else’s seems to have a small straight section at the top between the two v’s. *Oops*.

    My bust darts are doing the same thing on my chambray version (but on my lighter wight fabric, they’re perfect.)

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 12:58 pm #

      I almost pushed my button placement like that too, until I looked at the line drawing and realized there was supposed to be a space. So you’re not alone 😉

  9. cjgal July 26, 2013 at 11:52 am #

    I’ve been eyeballing this one… Yours may push me over the edge. Love it, you look super cute!

  10. Katherine July 26, 2013 at 12:03 pm #

    So cute, love the cherry pattern.

  11. Anonymous July 26, 2013 at 12:04 pm #

    You so got yours done before me. Mine . . . this week me thinks. Right now, I have a dress and a shirt to finish. The pattern and fabric have only been there for forever.

  12. carlalissa July 26, 2013 at 12:09 pm #

    L O V E…it!!!!!

  13. Heather Lou July 26, 2013 at 12:13 pm #

    Oh god you make me laugh. That “deal with it” gif is something I mentally imagine at least twice a day. I have also given up being coy with my remote. Love your version – I’m not sure this is a style for me but I love seeing other people rock it.

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 12:59 pm #

      Me too! I love that deal with it gif… it basically sums up my life most of the time.

  14. Chickeys July 26, 2013 at 12:43 pm #

    I was totally waffling on whether or not to pick this pattern up, but this is the kick in the pants I need to get it! The cherry fabric is killer.

    I’m sorta over summery dresses right now (I’ve got 3 in progress, I’m so bad!), and I bet this dress would look great in lightweight wool…fabric suggestions be damned. 😉 I also want to make a winter Rooibos, and a corduroy Anise…Colette mega-haul, here I come.

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 1:00 pm #

      I am totally making my winter version in a lightweight wool (hoping I can find a good plaid wool). Omg now I want a cord version too. Will I ever run out of Hawthorn ideas?

  15. Rosie Wednesday July 26, 2013 at 12:51 pm #

    So fun! I’m really excited to sew up a Hawthorn. I’m on Kollabora, too. I will add you (I’m Rosie Wednesday).

    PS – I like the hair. Here in Texas, we don’t mind big hair, though. :0)

  16. Helen July 26, 2013 at 12:55 pm #

    I really wasn’t fussed about this pattern when it first came out, but the more versions I see, the more it appeals, and your is no different. This is lovely and really suits you! I think it’s the collar and v neck I don’t like, but a Peter Pan collar would be a good alternative! I am on Kollabora as Grosgrain Green. Not got round to posting anything there yet though!

    • Helen July 26, 2013 at 12:57 pm #

      PS your hair is what mine looks like on a good day! I loved your hair shorter!

      • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 1:01 pm #

        I loved it short, too, but honestly I don’t like styling my hair and I think it looks better long if I’m not going to be arsed to fix it every day. Plus, I need to be able to wear it up when I’m biking and running 🙂 I should just embrace my inner Rochelle and get a wig, ha.

  17. Marina July 26, 2013 at 1:00 pm #

    This is so cute…I like it much better with a shorter skirt. Did you just remove length from the hem, or did you slash and overlap so as not to lose width?

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 1:03 pm #

      I just trimmed the length off the hem of the skirt. I think it worked fine – I really like the width it is at now.

  18. Seattlerain July 26, 2013 at 1:01 pm #

    Wow, love the cherry fabric! Your collars look much better than mine! I’m glad to hear that someone else didn’t follow the exact button placement either- I half assed mine but it shows. Your buttons rock!

    I’m hooked on the Hawthorn, too! Despite all the work it takes, I’m planning a fall one. Plus I bought a Simflex to help with the button spacing. Dress shirts galore are in order here!

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 1:02 pm #

      Argh, I want one of those button spacers SO BAD. Don’t rub it in, now!! 🙂

  19. johanna@projects by me July 26, 2013 at 1:02 pm #

    Talking about what styles you normally don’t wear but then you reconsider because they look so fantastic all sewed up, yep that’s Hawthorn for me – not my cup of tea, but it’s so pretty on everyone else, you for example! The pattern is on my birthday wishlist and I hope I get it! Your version is so sweet with the cherries!

  20. Kelly July 26, 2013 at 1:17 pm #

    Lovely dress, and I love your fabric! Don’t think I’m quite up to full button down dresses yet, but I’m filing it away for future use! Camera remotes are annoying – I used to have an awesome tiny little remote for my 400D, but then I upgraded my camera to the 50D, and that remote doesn’t work with it 😦 why, canon?! Have just ordered much more complicated remote for that (looks kinda like yours actually), but the other one was so tiny and easy to hide! Also need to get the camera fixed before I can actually use it…oops…

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 1:21 pm #

      I’m new to the remote world but it has changed my LIFE. No more taking 60+ self-timed shots (seems like a lot, but it’s hardly any when you consider that 90% of them are unusable!) and weeding through them. My remote isn’t very complicated – it just has a button, and a slider that does… something (I really should look at the instruction book!), and this giant-ass antennae, haha. I have a Canon G12, which is an older model – which means I didn’t have a lot of options when I was remote shopping. This one was only $25, so not too bad!

  21. craftsanctuary July 26, 2013 at 1:24 pm #

    We are seriously on the same wavelength right now! Literally all of your makes are in my sewing queue (with fabric picked out and everything) and just waiting for me! If only I had super-human sewing skills like you…

    Anyhow, love the cherries! They are too cute, and are freaking perfect for this dress.

  22. Kelly July 26, 2013 at 1:25 pm #

    They are great, I LOVED my other one (no antennae!). It works with every canon SLR except the 50D. Whyyyy?! I have a G10 as well, so maybe I’ll be able to use it with both 🙂 and the boyfriend won’t have to come and take photos of me every time I want them! Hehe, I never get 60 to choose between, because he normally gets bored after about 5…btw, so totally in love with your blog, it (and you) are awesome!

    • Kelly July 26, 2013 at 1:43 pm #

      Oops, that totally should have been a reply above!

  23. Anonymous July 26, 2013 at 1:34 pm #

    Cute fabric!

    I’m working on one as well and I’m also having issues with the bust darts. I didn’t get wrinkles but they were a bit…umm…pointy. And ended in a really unfortunate area. There are instructions on the Collette website for how to drop the darts 1 inch under the apex of the bust, where they should be, and split them into two darts on each side. I thought it helped the overall appearance a lot.

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 1:38 pm #

      Mine are a bit pointy too, although I think it’s more noticeable to me (looking down) than to someone looking straight at me. Thanks for the tip about the Coletterie tutorial; I remember seeing that but I had forgotten. I have a vintage shirtwaist with double darts and I love the way it fits, so redrafting this one to have the same effect would be great.

      • MarrieB July 26, 2013 at 2:14 pm #

        I also had pointy darts on this pattern. I split them in two, following the tutorial and it lays much much smoother!

  24. ksgentry July 26, 2013 at 2:31 pm #

    Love it! Wonderful sewn and love the red shoes. So many of Hawthorn creators used red accents. I guess great minds think alike!

  25. Rachel Haynes July 26, 2013 at 3:52 pm #

    I love it! I have the pattern pieces cut out, just have to lay into my fabric, but I’ve been losing weight, so I am hesitant to sew with fancy fabric right now.

    I am on Kollabora! I even designed a sweater that they showcased at Vogue Knitting Live in NY! I commented on this before, I met them at Gertie’s party after I did the craftsy dress, because you encouraged me to… Anyhow, lets be Kollabora friends! I’m under Rachel Haynes. (It’s a hell of an alias.)

    • LLADYBIRD July 26, 2013 at 3:54 pm #

      Yessss I remember you!! I love that story so much 😀

  26. Bec Stitches July 26, 2013 at 5:58 pm #

    The collar detail and neckline is adorbs. Love it

  27. Marie July 26, 2013 at 6:33 pm #

    Well, you had no jealous to be jealous of my version, because yours kicks ass! I love the contrast of the dark fabric and the sweet cherries! I find it so surprising how many people commented on mine and your post saying they weren’t originally drawn to Hawthorn! I don’t get why at all, it’s so awesome! I honestly can’t wait to make loads more, as well as the blouse too!

  28. Sarah W. July 26, 2013 at 9:03 pm #

    Wonderful! I like the Laurel pattern a lot too

  29. Kelly July 26, 2013 at 9:04 pm #

    This is really cute on you, I haven’t had very good luck with Colette patterns (not designed for my straight up and down body type, ha) I am on Kollabora, under CutCutSew 🙂

  30. Lori July 26, 2013 at 10:32 pm #

    Wonderful dress, great changes so you can wear a belt. I am with you Kollabora is fantastic.

  31. Karen Hughes July 26, 2013 at 11:34 pm #

    I had to un-lurk just to say that this is one of the most flattering dresses on you. I love the fabric and the shorter length. The red accent is just perfect.

  32. Alice Keen July 27, 2013 at 3:01 am #

    This is gorgeous, but everything looks fabulous on you! I like your fabric choice.

    When Colette released this pattern I didn’t much care for it. Now I’ve seen yours I see I was hasty. The pattern isn’t what I had thought it was. Somehow I got it into my head that it had waist gathers. Now I will have to get this!

    Your hair isn’t that bad! Mine is often so awful I lazily conceal it under a wide headband.

  33. Helena July 27, 2013 at 3:10 am #

    Your Hawthorn is lovely! The more I see of this pattern, the more I want it.

  34. Mads (lifeinamadshouse) July 27, 2013 at 12:00 pm #

    Your Hawthorn looks great! I totally agree about grading the collar/facing area seams on the next one–I can’t believe that mine lays flat at all! But this is a great pattern and as always, you’ve done an amazing job of sewing it up.

  35. Susan Partlan (@susanpartlan) July 27, 2013 at 12:25 pm #

    Beautiful dress, beautiful work. I love the fabric and the way you styled the outfit in the photos. I think you are right that the bust darts are probably more noticeable to you looking down at them than to someone looking at you. I didn’t notice them until you called attention to them.

  36. Amy July 27, 2013 at 3:14 pm #

    Cute dress! I just love those cherries. And, that remote! It’s huge! Mine is a tiny little thing, but I feel like I often have a weird hand claw in my photos from palming it after taking a shot. Yours rocks though. It looks like it even has an antenna. Awesome!

  37. 1107nikki July 27, 2013 at 3:42 pm #

    Very cute. I love it. The fabric fits this pattern perfectly. Oh dear another pattern on my wants list…

  38. ZoSews July 28, 2013 at 3:16 am #

    Nice one. You make me want Hawthorn now… dammit. I like Kollabora more and more…

  39. Emma July 28, 2013 at 7:04 am #

    Oh how I love your blogs! Always a few giggles in there, you make such gorgeous stuff and I learn something every time. thanks so much and keep em comin 🙂

  40. Cameron July 28, 2013 at 7:37 am #

    I just can’t focus on the dress because I’m so distracted by the camera remote. If only it was hidden somehow. It’s just so big. Ha. Just kidding. I don’t think we’re going to notice. If I notice at all, I’ll probably wonder where you got such a tiny phone. At least you don’t rely on your phone for pictures like some dumb bloggers (ME).

    The dress is so very cute! When I first saw the pattern, I wasn’t sure that it was a style that I would be interested in wearing, but you’ve changed my mind!

  41. Carolyn July 28, 2013 at 10:59 am #

    OMG this dress is adorable! The embroidered fabric is really perfect for the style. I hadn’t been convinced on Hawthorn, but seeing yours make me want one. : ) Congrats on a great dress!

  42. SewSleepy July 28, 2013 at 12:28 pm #

    stunning, currently working on a plaid after agonizing over which fabric to make this in

    • SewSleepy August 2, 2013 at 11:24 am #

      Well done on getting through to the second round. I have completed my plaid version- you can see it on Flickr and my blog

  43. mollyblossomdesign July 28, 2013 at 5:57 pm #

    You are so lovey dovey with all these patterns lately that I think your next Vogue Patterns review is going to be all lovey instead of all “WTH?”

  44. Jessica July 29, 2013 at 1:16 am #

    I’m making a blouse version of Hawthorn with embroidery on the collar and cuffs – but now I’m worries I’m never going to get my collar to sit right if I’ve got embroidery to factor into the mix!

    • LLADYBIRD July 29, 2013 at 9:13 am #

      Just be really aggressive with your clipping, grading, and understitching. If you need to, you can tack the facings down in a few places too, to keep things in place. My collar has embroidery on it and I was able to get it pretty flat 😉

  45. missjoiedevivre July 30, 2013 at 2:23 am #

    Amazing. Of course. And now my life won’t be complete until I have embroidered cherries in it.

  46. Nicki July 30, 2013 at 2:46 pm #

    Yep, you can’t go wrong with cherries..especially not embroidered ones. I love how it turned out, it is so pretty and flattering. My Hawthorn is still at the muslin stage. Actually the pieces aren’t even sew together! Maybe you’ve convinced me to get to it and stop being a scaredy cat.

  47. Becca August 1, 2013 at 3:10 pm #

    This is totally adorable! That cherry print fabric is so perfect for a shirtwaist dress, and that tiny collar is the cutest. Love the flea market buttons, too. This pattern will be added to my queue now.

  48. rachelinred August 3, 2013 at 3:05 am #

    aaah.. i gasped when I loaded this post and saw the first picture of your Hawthorn. Your fabric choice is great. This is a gorgeous dress!

  49. Andrew Evans May 22, 2023 at 4:57 am #

    Thank you for writing thiss


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