OAL2015: Adding Pockets // Assembling the Skirt

29 Jun

Good morning, everyone! Time for another dose of OAL goodness!


Today is pretty simple – we’ll just be adding (optional) pockets and assembling the skirt pieces. If you don’t want to add pockets, just skip this post and follow the instructions that came with the pattern. Let’s get to it!

OAL 2015
For now, the only skirt piece we will be dealing with is piece #15, the side front. You should have 4 of these pieces cut in total. The side that I’m pointing to – with the double notches – is the side that we will be focusing on for these next steps. Finish the edges of all 4 side front pieces (only on the side with the double notches).

OAL 2015
If you haven’t already done so, you’ll need to cut out 4 pocket pieces from your fabric (you can use self-fabric, but I was on a pink kick so mine are contrasty!). The pattern doesn’t come with a pocket pattern piece, so feel free to swipe one from another pattern you own – mine is from the Saltspring Dress. Finish all edges of the pocket pieces.

OAL 2015
On the finished edge of each side front piece, measure 3″ down from the top and mark with a pin. This is where we will be attaching the pockets.

Note: Depending on your height and proportions, you may want to sew your pockets more or less than 3″ from the waist. I looked at several patterns with pockets – as well as a few of my dresses that have pockets in a good spot – and the average seems to be somewhere between 2.5″-3.5″, with 3″ being a comfortable distance for me. However, if you’re unsure – I recommend checking some of your patterns, or measuring a couple existing garments, to see what works for *you*.

OAL 2015
Pin 1 pocket piece to 1 skirt side front (4x), with the top of the pocket 3″ away from the top of the skirt and right sides facing.

OAL 2015
Sew the pocket to the skirt piece at 3/8″ and understitch the seam allowances toward the pocket. Using a smaller seam allowance and understitching will help with keeping that pocket inside the skirt and hidden.

OAL 2015
Now you can pin 2 skirt/pocket pieces, right sides together, starting at the top of the skirt and going all the way around the pocket and to the bottom of the skirt. Repeat for the other pocket.

OAL 2015
Stitch at 5/8″, lowering your needle and pivoting where the pocket meets the skirt at the top and bottom (I can’t seem to explain this very clearly so just look at the photo!).

OAL 2015
At the top & bottom of each pocket bag, clip diagonally in the corner just to the stitching (but not through the stitching). This will enable you to press the seams above and below the pocket open, as well as make your pocket bag lay better inside the skirt.

OAL 2015
Press the seams open above and below the pocket bag, and press the pocket to one side (it should go toward the center front, so press in opposite directions for each of your two assembled skirt pieces).

OAL 2015
OAL 2015
Here it is finished! Yay, sneaky pink pocket πŸ˜€

OAL 2015
And here is how it looks on the inside πŸ™‚

Once you’ve finished adding the pocket bags, you can attach the front to the side fronts (one on each side of the front) and the two back pieces to the opposite side of the side fronts. Finish your seams as desired and press. Finally, finish the center back seams (again, I just serged mine).

That’s it! Next week, we’ll attach the skirt to the bodice and deal with that back cut-out. Making progress! πŸ™‚

Let me know if you have any questions about anything I covered in this post! How are we doing this week, OAL-gers? πŸ™‚

14 Responses to “OAL2015: Adding Pockets // Assembling the Skirt”

  1. yacurama June 29, 2015 at 11:04 am #

    If you clip the corners, won’t your serged edges unravel?

    • LLADYBIRD June 29, 2015 at 11:05 am #

      They shouldn’t. I do this to all my skirt pockets and I’ve never had it happen πŸ™‚

  2. SunGold June 29, 2015 at 12:15 pm #

    Groan – I added pockets to a pair of shorts last night … and woke to find this tutorial! I wish I’d seen it before because it didn’t occur to me to understitch. Thanks for the tute!

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2015 at 8:37 am #

      No worries! If the pockets are giving you trouble, you can always understitch them by hand πŸ™‚ I’ve done that before and it works just fine! πŸ™‚

  3. Jo June 29, 2015 at 3:14 pm #

    Nice pockets! I am crazy for pockets so I’ve added a lot of inseam pockets now! I never do the clip thing, I just press the whole seam allowance towards the front all the way up and down the skirt. I’m not the biggest fan of that so maybe I should clip!
    Then again, I totally hate clipping into my garments, haha! I feel like they’re going to fall apart! Maybe I should scope out some RTW to see what they do!
    I never bother understitching but it would give it an extra layer of strength to the pocket I bet πŸ™‚

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2015 at 8:40 am #

      Pressing all the seam allowances in one direction is definitely an option! I’ve always hated the bulk (plus the separate seam allowances pressed together – I don’t know why but it drives me crazy, even though it is on the inside where no one can see it haha), so I like being able to press mine open πŸ™‚ But yeah, you don’t have to clip if you don’t want to!

      I can’t remember how RTW does pockets – something tells me they don’t clip, though. And man, I’m an understitching machine! I love understitching; I do it to everything haha πŸ™‚

  4. sewnbyashley June 30, 2015 at 1:14 pm #

    I add pockets to all my dresses, and for some reason, I always use Saltspring pockets too! I just did it to my McCall’s 7119.

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2015 at 1:23 pm #

      Saltspring has the best pockets!!

      • sewnbyashley June 30, 2015 at 1:25 pm #

        It really does, bless her and her pocket wizardry.


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