OAL 2018: Quick Waistband Adjustment

12 Jul

Hello everyone! It’s been a minute since I mentioned the OAL, but we are still going strong (and it’s wrapping up in the next couple of weeks, meaning, YOU STILL HAVE TIME TO PARTICIPATE). I wanted to check in and see how everyone is doing, and also offer a little hack-y fitting tip for your Lander waistband (or any straight waistband, for that matter!).

BUT FIRST I wanted to share this – I’m on a podcast!

I was super honored to be interviewed for the Love to Sew podcast recently, and my episode just aired! I’ve been a long time fan of this series, so it was pretty flattering to get my own episode! If you are interested in checking it out, you can listen to the episode here. I hope you enjoy it!

Now, onto the rest of the blog post!

You’ll have to forgive me in advance because I don’t have photos of the progress (just the result); I was experimenting and not sure how this would pan out (story of my life). But I think this is a pretty simple and straightforward adjustment, so hopefully my words are enough to convey the information across πŸ™‚

One of the features of the Lander Pants & Shorts is that they include a straight waistband made from a single piece of fabric. This is very simple to sew, but may not result in a perfect fit if you are especially curvy. Some people get excess fabric and gaping at the center back, since the waistband does not curve with their back. This does not indicate a bad pattern – it just indicates a draft that does not correspond with that particular body shape (there are PLENTY of bodies that fit great in a straight waistband, and PLENTY of bodies that can’t do a curved waistband, etc). This is something than can easily be adjusted by changing the waistband to a curved waistband (or, better/lazier yet – stealing a curved waistband from another pattern and using that), but you have to do it before you actually cut your fabric. If you’ve already sewn your waistband on and are experiencing this – read on!

My previous 2 pairs of Lander pants did not gape very much, and I was easily able to fix it by simply wearing a belt. Since these are shorts, and they felt like they were gaping a little more than I was comfortable with, I wanted to try to find a way to eliminate the gape without needing to wear a belt (it’s hot outside, I don’t need a layer of LEATHER around my waist amirite). Of course, one option it to unpick the waistband, pinch out the excess into a dart (creating a curved waistband, but with a seam), and then taking out the excess in the pants either at the center back or the darts (or all). I wanted my waistband to be fitted while also still being comfortable, so I thought I’d try a little bit of elastic at the back instead.

OAL 2018: Adjusting the Waistband

I cut two slits on the inside of the waistband, positioning them as best I could under the side back belt loops (to hide the topstitching I was able to do next). I only needed to take in a little bit – maybe 1/2″ at most – but in my experience it’s good to stretch this amount over a longer length than you need, which will make things less bunchy.

I fed a length of elastic that fit in my waistband (I found that 1.5″ wide elastic fit perfectly in the topstitched waistband), pinned one end down, and tried them on to determine the best length of elastic – i.e., tight enough to pull in the gape, but not so tight it was starting to gather.

OAL 2018: Adjusting the Waistband

After cutting the elastic, I secured each short end down with a zigzag stitch. Since these are under the belt loops, they aren’t visible from the outside. Then I stitched closed the holes I had made inside the waistband.

OAL 2018: Adjusting the Waistband

Here is how it looks on the inside (oops, I need to re-sew that hole closed I guess haha)

OAL 2018: Adjusting the Waistband

And the outside!

And finally – some gratuitous shots of my butt so you can see what they actually look like on:
(I am really sorry)

OAL 2018: Adjusting the Waistband

OAL 2018: Adjusting the Waistband

As you can see, it mostly flattens out so it is not super gathered. It snugs up the waistband enough so that it sits flat against my back, but the elastic will stretch if needed (i.e., tacos) so they are still comfortable.

This is a SUPER easy and quick fix if you need a minimal adjustment at the back waist – like I said, mine was no more than 1/2″. It’s also definitely a hack fix – the proper way would be to make a flat pattern adjustment to the waistband so it is curved – but sometimes I think a hack is good enough. If it’s the difference between you wearing the pants and not wearing the pants, I’d say it’s worth a try!

I also realized I never shared my yarn or stripe ideas for my Waters tee! God you guys I am awful.

OAL 2018: Sweater Progress

Here is where I’m at as of this posting. Making good progress, which wasn’t evident until I took this photo, if I’m being completely honest! I’m heading to Canada today to teach a couple of jeans workshops at Darrell Thomas Textiles (and I *think* there is still an open seat for the weekday class, ahem), and I’m hoping I can knock the rest out pretty quickly because I am dying to wear this thing!!!

My yarn is Quince & Co. Sparrow, and the colors are pigeon and lunar (I don’t know why it looks black in these photos, pigeon is actually a nice blue-grey. Oh right because I can’t take photos to save my life lololol). I changed my stripes to be a basic 4×4, and the edging will be the darker color. I need to decide which side I want to be the right side, though – because the purl side looks pretty freaking rad, too!

Ok, I think that’s all! How is everyone doing with their OAL projects? Have you finished yet?

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24 Responses to “OAL 2018: Quick Waistband Adjustment”

  1. morningsprite July 12, 2018 at 8:18 am #

    I opted for a new pair of Gingers (royal blue with some NEON topstitching) instead of the Landers, and I am at the waist of the Waters pullover in hempathy. I have never been this close to completing an OAL project on time, and I am super excited!

    • LLADYBIRD July 12, 2018 at 9:57 am #

      That is really exciting!! And UM I can’t wait to see those Gingers, they sound awesome!!!!

  2. Melody Srygley July 12, 2018 at 8:30 am #

    Freakin’ genious!

  3. Abbey July 12, 2018 at 8:44 am #

    Congrats on your Love To Sew feature!!!! πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‰ And these red Lander shorts are so cute though 😍

  4. Inclement July 12, 2018 at 10:23 am #

    Ah, Lladybird blog post, AND podcast – week is brightened. πŸ˜€

    (People mentioning Gingers – my poor head is now getting websites crossed & thinks they mean the twin ginger kittens I’ve been watching elsewhere, known as “Twingers” haha.)

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:30 am #

      hahaha I would not be sad if I was having that kind of mix-up! πŸ™‚

  5. Rose July 12, 2018 at 2:31 pm #

    Thank you for this post!! It is so timely for me. I made the Landers shorts in linen for the OAL. The waistband is just a bit too big to be comfortable. I guess there’s a little more stretch in the fabric compared to the muslin. I’ll be be using this method to fix it! As for my sweater, it’s started and going well which is a major plus for me with knitting! The jury is still out about the 7/31 finish date, but I WILL finish it and appreciate the inspiration from the OAL.

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:30 am #

      That is awesome! I’m not sure if I will finish my sweater in time either (although I will certainly try!) but will definitely finish it at SOME point haha!

  6. liz-o-matic July 12, 2018 at 5:41 pm #

    I’m almost done with my Lander shorts, unless disaster strikes I should be able to finish them this week. My Waters top though is a sad state of affairs & I doubt I’ll finish in time 😦
    Story of my life!! Last year I finished my sweater, but *still* haven’t finished my Kim dress :-/

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:31 am #

      It sounds like you’ll just need to wear last year’s sweater with this year’s shorts πŸ˜‰ hahahaha

  7. Michele Lee July 12, 2018 at 6:13 pm #

    I decided not to be lazy & unpicked my Lander shorts & refitted w/curved waistband, but OMG i’m going to do this hack in all my RTW waistbands because THEY ALL GAP!! Thanks for sharing this great tip! loved your episode on Love To Sew!!

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:31 am #

      Good for you for not being lazy! That is definitely the proper way to do things, and you should feel good about it! πŸ™‚

  8. Anonymous July 12, 2018 at 8:06 pm #

    Totally listening to your podcast while sewing the Watson bra in scuba!! You rock!!

  9. Anne July 13, 2018 at 9:19 pm #

    I tried this on a pair of rub-off pants I made but I never thought of hiding my seam under the belt loop. Genius!! Also, welcome to Ottawa (again)! Wish I could take the class, but alas. Can’t wait to see the results though πŸ˜ƒ

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:32 am #

      Thank you! Maybe next time I’m up here you’ll be able to make it πŸ™‚ (although it sounds like you don’t need a class if you’re already making pants!)

  10. Nicole B. July 14, 2018 at 7:21 am #

    Heard the podcast, how fun to hear your voice and sweet southern accent! Question on lengthening the Lander short – I want my shorts to be about 1.5 inches longer in the inseam / leg length. Should I just add that onto the existing hem in the pattern pieces? Draw the inseam and outseam straight down?

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:33 am #

      I would lengthen at the lengthen/shorten line if possible, to maintain the lines at the bottom. If there aren’t lengthen/shorten lines, just lengthen somewhere around the knee.

  11. Robyn July 14, 2018 at 6:16 pm #

    Hi Lauren, I giving the OAL a go. Starting with the Landers. I wanted to ask you about seam finishes. I prefer flat felled or French to sergered. Can I use either of those on the Landers? If so which seams, and should I change the order on construction? Also I’ve traced the view B but am only 5’1”. I wonder if I need to use the shorten line or if I can just cut at the hem if needed. They look pretty straight down the lower half of the leg to me. Thanks! And thanks for hosting this!
    ~Robyn

    • LLADYBIRD July 16, 2018 at 8:35 am #

      I wouldn’t french these seams unless you are using a very lightweight fabric; bottomweight fabric is very thick and not really suitable for french seams. You can flat fell the inseam but you won’t be able to flat fell the outer legs (not without great difficultly, anyway), so I just serge those. You shouldn’t need to change the order of construction. Ideally you’d shorten your pants at the lenghten/shorten line, but if you’ve already cut/sewn them you can just cut at the hem. Make sure you maintain the same lines that the pattern has – there is an angle at the bottom so you can hem the fullness.

  12. Pamela H. July 15, 2018 at 8:23 pm #

    If you don’t mind, can you disclose the sewing machine make and model that produced those gorgeous button holes? I need a machine upgrade and aestetically pleasing button holes are a must have. Thank you!

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