V1419 Sewalong: Steps 4-22

20 Oct

Good morning, sewalongers! This is the week we actually start sewing our coats – aren’t you sooo excited!?! πŸ˜€ Meg will actually be covering this week’s set of steps over on the McCall Blog later this week (she had a family emergency last week, so please be patient if it takes her a couple of days to have the post up), but I thought I’d post here with some tips and progress updates (and personal cheerleading, in case you need it πŸ˜‰ ).

This first set of steps will get you acquainted with attaching the binding, as well as starting some basic construction on the coat – the back belt, the underarm gusset, and attaching the side to the front. It is fairly straightforward – you may not even need the sewalong once you start reading the instructions – although you do need to be very precise. Don’t be afraid to go slow and maybe even do some hand basting on the trickier parts. You got this!

Ok, here are my ~top tips~ for this section:

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
If you underlined your coat, you will want to remove the basting stitches after you sew each piece together. This is where the silk thread/hand basting comes in handy – it should be very easy to pull out πŸ™‚

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
Underlining or not, if your coat fabric is thick, you will definitely want to trim and grade the seam allowances as much as possible when it comes time to apply the bias binding – otherwise, you may have problems getting it to lie flat. I use my Gingher duck-billed applique scissors for this; the flat side keeps any errant fabric from getting caught and accidentally snipped. Obviously you can use regular scissors – just be mindful of where you cut πŸ™‚ I grade down my coating fabric first – as close as I can to the stitching line, without compromising the strength of the stitches – and then trim the remaining seam allowances once I’m ready to fold over the binding.

SPEAKING OF THE BINDING…

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
Trim off those little triangles before you start applying. It’ll make things a tiny bit easier.

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
When attaching the binding to the belt, I used my #10 Edgestitching foot to stitch in the ditch on the right side…

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
Which turned out freaking GORGEOUS, by the way.

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
The rest of the binding is actually applied flat to the coat, with the topstitching visible on the right side. It can be pretty difficult to get everything even on both sides (catching the binding at the fold on the inside, while still keeping an even topstitching distance on the right side). The pattern has you baste the binding down first, which is a great idea. The only thing I’d add to that is to baste it by hand – yes, I know machine basting is faster, but guess what? It’s also a HUGE PAIN IN THE REAR to remove. Do yourself a favor and baste by hand. Use silk thread if you got it. I basted right along the edge of the binding with dark blue silk thread (so it was visible)(sorry, no photos of this), and then topstitched right inside my basting line on the outside, using one of these little seam guides so I could keep the stitching line straight. Afterwards, you will want to beat the crap out of your seams to get them to lie nice and flat. I give everything a healthy dose of steam, and then smack it with my clapper (I use this clapper & point presser, but honestly, you could use a hunk of wood if you’re feeling cheap. Just make sure you sand it reeeeeeally well so you don’t get a surprise splinter in your coat!).

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
Oh yeah, and I realized about halfway through this sewing session that it’s probably a good idea to keep a container around to hold all my trimmed seam allowances. There is a LOT of trimming going on around here, and for some reason, I’m incapable of hitting the trash can. Whatever.

Anyway, once you have finished through step 22, you should have something like this –

V1419 Ralph Rucci Sewalong
It’s a coat… front… thing! Yeah!!! Not so bad, huh? πŸ™‚

Head over to the McCall Blog for Meg’s step-by-step of this part of the process (hopefully up later this week!). In the meantime – how are we doing? Anyone have questions on this section of the sewalong?

Side note/disclaimer: Ok, so I decided to start occasionally using affiliate links on this blog. Sorry if you hate me! πŸ™‚ I am currently only affiliated with Amazon, and I promise I will only be linking things that I personally use and recommend – such as those scissors & that clapper. Y’all will never ever ever see me link something just for the sake of linking it – that’s just crappy. However, please keep in mind that any purchases you make through these links will net a small kickback to me, which I will likely spend immediately on yarn & fabric (and thus pour back into this blog, in the form of content for y’all to read!). Also, no sneaky linkies – I will always describe the item I’m linking so you don’t have to click to see them, if affiliate links squick you out πŸ™‚ I won’t be posting this disclaimer at the end of all my posts, as it seems a little redundant, but you can always view it in my About Me page. That’s all! Thanks for supporting my blog, dudes! β™₯

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41 Responses to “V1419 Sewalong: Steps 4-22”

  1. Tina October 20, 2014 at 7:31 am #

    Hi Lauren, where do you get your silk basting thread? Can you send a link to the one you buy? Thanks.

    • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 8:00 am #

      I actually buy mine at a local shop here! I just get the Gutterman brand πŸ™‚ I am pretty sure you can get it at Joann’s, and it looks like redrockthreads.com also sells it πŸ™‚

      • Tina October 20, 2014 at 12:43 pm #

        I’ve looked at Joanns and Hanco ks, the only sources local for me, so I will have to order. I went to Guteremann’s and Redrock’s web site and I am not sure which weight to get. What is the weight on your thread? Thanks Lauren 😊

        • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 3:19 pm #

          I didn’t even realize they came in different weights πŸ™‚ My shop only sells one type haha πŸ™‚ Anyway, I looked at my spools and I’m fairly certain the weight you want is the 30wt. It comes in spools of 100 meters. Also, Renee (Miss Celie) has a good point with using cotton basting thread as well, if you want a slightly less expensive option πŸ™‚ Hope this helps!

    • Miss Celie October 20, 2014 at 3:13 pm #

      Coats and Clarks makes a basting thread from cotton. I like how it works and it pulls out cleanly too. Not that I’m against silk basting thread. But, just an option. I think it’s called Basting / Bobbin thread.

  2. Crystal October 20, 2014 at 7:39 am #

    I’m cutting fabric today! I should be ready by the time Meg is able to post.

  3. Miss Celie October 20, 2014 at 7:45 am #

    Thank you for posting an affiliate link disclaimer.

    I also highly recommend the duckbill scissors. They make a world of difference, especially in grading seams.

    Have you tried the Bernina bias tape attachment? I haven’t. Just curious. And, that #10 foot is the business. I was wearing a knit top and my friend Trena was staring at my neckline and asked how I got the topstiching so close. Yessss.

    • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 8:03 am #

      No worries! I hate it when people are sneaky about affiliate links. It’s like, just admit you’re making money off those clicks! Ain’t no shame in that!

      I have not tried the bias tape attachment, but now you’ve totally got my interest. I’m about ready to buy a new foot anyway (I get one about 4x a year haha), so maybe I’ll test it out later this week! Also, I love nerding out over some gorgeous topstitching. LOVE that #10 foot. That was a $40 investment well worth it πŸ™‚

      • Miss Celie October 20, 2014 at 8:25 am #

        Yeah, I always check the monthly special. Here’s the one I’m talking about: http://www.bernina.com/en-US/Products-us/BERNINA-products/Accessories/Presser-feet/Binder-attachment-88-for-unfolded-bias-tape-us

        I’ve used the generic ones on other machines before with mixed results. But, because of my undying for the invisible zipper foot, I’m a Bernina foot believer.

        • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 3:23 pm #

          Ever since I had a horrible experience with a generic invisible zipper foot, I’ve always been loyal to the branded ones. Those Bernina feet, though, they are something else.

          Also, damn you for introducing me to the monthly special. There goes the rest of my paycheck… πŸ™‚

      • Robin October 20, 2014 at 10:54 am #

        ha! I spied the teeny bit of red I could see in the photo of the foot, and recognized it as a Bernina foot. I am currently in love with my Juki F600, but yeah there is nothing like a Bernina #10 foot, because yes, I am a promiscuous player with sewing machines. And I am another duckbill scissor lover. This coat is going to be gorgeous!

        • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 3:25 pm #

          Thank you! I’m so excited to see it ~come into shape~ πŸ˜€

  4. Frankie Carson October 20, 2014 at 7:53 am #

    I don’t want to sound silly but what is stitching in the ditch ?

    Frankie

    • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 7:59 am #

      Not silly at all πŸ™‚ stitching in the ditch is exactly what it sounds like – you sew in the little “ditch” created between two seams (in this case, the belt & bias tape). If you can keep it straight and in that ditch, the stitching line should be nearly invisible πŸ™‚ hope that helps!

  5. ekabby111 October 20, 2014 at 9:04 am #

    I was really hoping that you’d be one of those types to throw up an affiliate link every four words or so. I love the way that looks.

    • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 3:25 pm #

      I am happy to write some special affiliate emails JUST FOR YOU if that’s what this friendship requires πŸ™‚

      • ekabby111 October 21, 2014 at 9:09 am #

        Yes. Yes it does.

        And when I get those emails, I shall angrily tweet at you for being a big ole sell out.

  6. Mertxe October 20, 2014 at 12:58 pm #

    Lauren, please, could you please have a look at my muslin pics at Flickr (Mertixta) and tell me what you think? I have opened a discussion about fitting problems, Crystal suggested I have to go one size down to solve them, and I think she is right. What do you think? Is it too big?
    Big thanks!
    M

    • LLADYBIRD October 20, 2014 at 3:26 pm #

      Hey! I’m so sorry, I thought I replied to one of the photos but it must have not gone through 😦 I replied in the thread, but basically – definitely go down a size. You will be SO much happier with the fit.

      • Mertxe October 20, 2014 at 5:28 pm #

        Thank you. I did not see the comment on the photo, I am as green on Flikr as I am with fitting, hehe..

  7. puu October 20, 2014 at 2:26 pm #

    great progress here! and i totally support your affiliate decision.

  8. Katie Lynn October 20, 2014 at 4:27 pm #

    So, the more of these posts I see pop up in my Feedly the more I want to make this coat. In a bright blue or fuchsia, one of those colors I see in coats but mysteriously never fit me correctly. The sleeves are always too small for winter sweaters (not even thick sweaters, just any sweater!).

    I’m totally on board with affiliate links. Especially for something like this, where you spend a lot of time taking photos, money on patterns and cloth, and actually take time to respond to comments for what is essentially a free thing you do.

  9. sweetvanessaleigh October 20, 2014 at 4:30 pm #

    This is such a gorgeous project! I will have to get this pattern and start looking for fabric. This might end up being my first sew along! Late a must! Beautiful instructions and loving your blog!

  10. Ines October 20, 2014 at 5:35 pm #

    As usual for you, your coat is lookin awesome already, can’t wait to see it all finished!

  11. jaeboyd October 20, 2014 at 6:34 pm #

    Love this red color! Also for anyone weary of hand stitching (or lazy like me!) I cheated a little. Instead of hand-stitching the bias fabric, I pinned the hell out of it in a way that when I sewed from the other side I could see the edge of the pins and used those as my guide. As long as I stayed to the inside of the furthest bit of silver I was good. Had a few spots here and there I needed to re-sew but overall it worked pretty well. I agree with you on machine basting, those stitches are way too small and a pain to take out!

  12. Dawn -The Winter Queen October 21, 2014 at 9:02 am #

    At the risk of asking a dumb ass question….. my coat fabric and binding are 2 different colours. I have never attached binding as a seam finish before so this is all new to me; but which colour thread would you recommend for attaching the binding to the seams? Coat colour or binding colour? I want to make sure I do this right!! :/

    • LLADYBIRD October 21, 2014 at 9:28 am #

      Don’t even worry, there are no dumb ass questions on my blog (unless I’m the one asking them haha) πŸ™‚ I wondered the same thing when I was sewing my coat! I think using a thread that matches the binding looks best. That being said, when you topstitch- you may want to use a coat-matching thread in the needle (and whatever matches the binding in the bobbin). That’s what I did, and I think it looks best for my coat. Your coat may differ, tho, so test some colors before you commit!

    • Dawn -The Winter Queen October 21, 2014 at 10:18 am #

      Thank you! I’m on it right now πŸ™‚
      And thanks for keeping our spirits up and motivation going in Meg’s absence! :)x

  13. McCallPatternCompany (@McCallPatternCo) October 21, 2014 at 9:33 am #

    Thanks for posting while I’m out of the office, Lauren. Really, really appreciate it. I’ll try to get my stuff up later this week. β€”Meg

    • Dawn -The Winter Queen October 21, 2014 at 10:17 am #

      and a jolly good job she is doing too Meg! Sending Best wishes to you and your family xx

  14. Dawn -The Winter Queen October 21, 2014 at 5:37 pm #

    Ok, I got the thread sorted… thanks! I see on your photos that the bias on your belt is visible from the right side. When I do this (folding the bias over the seam) its half the width of yours (see my flickr photo). This is how I thought we were to do it. But from the instructions and close up photos of the original coat on pintrest it doesnt look like the bias is visible? Should I be folding the entire bias to the inside on the actual seamline? (sorry! but you did say we could ask lol) :/

    • LLADYBIRD October 21, 2014 at 6:37 pm #

      Haha omg, you are totally right about the bias not being visible from the outside. That’s what I get for not thoroughly reading the instructions πŸ™‚ I was thinking about the original and I recall that the welts and button holes have visible bias, so I guess I assumed the same about the belt πŸ™‚ My error πŸ™‚ Sounds like you are right with this one; fold the bias to the inside.

      And don’t apologize for asking questions! The best part of a sewalong is getting the help you need for your questions, and that’s what we’re here for πŸ™‚ Even better if you correct the instructor hahahaha

      • Dawn -The Winter Queen October 22, 2014 at 4:28 am #

        OMG I wasn’t expecting that answer lol. Well I’ve started the belt now and I really like the visible binding despite it being narrow! Gotta head off to work now but I’ll mull it over today. oooh what to doooooo….??!! Haha thanks Lauren πŸ™‚

        • LLADYBIRD October 22, 2014 at 8:45 am #

          haha! Well, I’m not afraid to admit being way way wrong (even if it does make me look like a dumbass, lol) so no worries πŸ™‚ I like the visible binding too, I’m just going to leave it as is. I think it goes with the visible binding at the welts and button holes, so that’s my excuse πŸ™‚

          • Crystal October 26, 2014 at 11:29 am #

            Reading about the accidental visible belt binding got me thinking…I WANT visible binding on my belt. I think with the print on my fabric, it will help define the waist and it works with the buttonhole binding from the front. Benefit #245 of making your own garments.

            • LLADYBIRD October 26, 2014 at 11:31 am #

              Yes!! My thoughts exactly πŸ˜€

  15. Sueann Walter October 24, 2014 at 5:10 pm #

    I somehow lost my piece number 12!!!!! I really need to quit starting so many projects, but can someone post the dimensions for that piece and maybe a photo of it if it has markings. Thank you so much.

    • LLADYBIRD October 26, 2014 at 11:30 am #

      Hey! Piece #12 is just the button hole binding, so it’s 1″ wide and about 15.5″ long, and it’s cut on the bias. No markings πŸ™‚ You’ll need to cut that piece 4 times. Hope that helps!

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  1. Completed: Polka Dot Chambray Butterick 5526 | LLADYBIRD - October 21, 2014

    […] Affiliate links. I wrote this blurb out in my last post, but realized after the fact that not everyone reads sewalong posts (I’m guilty of this too […]

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