Completed: The Vogue Coat

9 Jan

Ahhh, it’s finished! A little past all my self-imposed deadlines, but whatever – I have a new coat! Finally!

Vogue Coat - Done!

Of course, now I wish I’d given it a catchier name than “the Vogue coat,” but ehhh, too late now. Let’s just look at how nice my coat looks, yeah? πŸ™‚

Vogue Coat - Done!

I guess there’s not much else to say about the making of this coat- I’ve outlined it pretty heavily here and here. Once I finished with all the pad stitching and steaming and general tailoring funsies, the rest of the coat came together quite quickly – especially since I’d already sewn up my lining and had it waiting for me.

Actually, let’s talk about inserting the lining real quick because I thought it was interesting how the pattern had me do it – I sewed the entire coat to completion – finished the backs of the bound button holes, sewed on the buttons, hemmed the bottom and the sleeves, stitched down the facings with long running stitches – and then inserted the lining by hand with slip stitches. At first, I tried to think up ways to not have to do this so I could just bag the lining like in RTW (one thing I learned how to do at Muna’s, man, we sewed sooo many coats there haha), but I eventually decided to just go with the instructions because I liked the way the finished coat felt with everything securely sewn down (bagging a lining, at least the way I learned, means that the facing and hem are left open and then you have to go back in and thread tack everything, which I sort of hated). Plus, the lining will be easy to remove and re-attach should I ever need to replace it. Considering that I plan on keeping this coat for a long time – or, at least, as long as I continue to fit into it πŸ™‚ – I’ll probably end up shredding the lining long before the coat needs to be repaired.

Vogue Coat - Done!

Oh, you wanted to see the lining? Sure thing!

Vogue Coat - Done!

It’s red! Shiny shiny red!!

Vogue Coat - Done!

I can’t even tell you how happy I am that I decided to go with the silk charmeuse instead of the Bemberg Rayon or China Silk that I was originally considering. This stuff is LUSH. It’s so heavy and wonderful, which makes it easy to sew and press, and it’s so shiny and gorgeous! I can’t get enough of it! Totally takes that coat game up a notch, don’t you think?

Vogue Coat - Done!

I am just really happy with this coat. It’s surprisingly warm, considering how light the wool is and the fact that I only underlined it with silk organza – when I took these pictures, it was like 25* outside, and I felt fine. It’s also pretty lightweight, making it easy to carry around (after I took these pictures, I spent the day at the mall with my BFF and the coat fit easily in my purse strap while I walked around. So nice!).

Vogue Coat - Done!

Not to mention, it’s just awesome. I’ve always wanted a plaid coat. And now I have one!

Vogue Coat - Done!
Vogue Coat - Done!

And unlike mall coats, my plaid actually matches πŸ˜‰

Vogue Coat - Done!

I love the topstitching on this coat. I used proper topstitching thread so you can really see it, and my machine had no trouble plowing through all the layers of coating and hair canvas.

Vogue Coat - Done!

Here’s a dorky fact about me – I love setting in coat sleeves! Really! Instead of using gathering stitches and all that nonsense, I use this cool little trick that uses a bias strip of fabric (for this coat, it was pajama flannel, ha!) to ease the sleeve head before you attach it to the armhole. Lolita patterns has a great tutorial on exactly how to do this, and even some tips of on what kind of fabric to use. I’ve used this technique for all my coats and I pretty much always get perfect results.

Vogue Coat - Done!

Here’s the coat without my distracting cowl. I ended up going with these black glass buttons as I like how they are simple enough to not distract from all the plaid going on with the coat fabric.

Vogue Coat - Done!

One thing that really upped my game with the coat this year was that I had a new iron to steam the shit out of things with! I ended up getting a gravity feed iron for Christmas (yay! Thank you, mom!!) and I can’t even tell you how delighted I am with the pressing output from that thing. It gets SO HOT, doesn’t auto shut-off (!!!) and I also got a shoe with it so there’s no shine or melting. It’s SO awesome. My coat really benefited, too, as you can tell – see how sharp the creases are at the hems and lapels? Love. Love love love!

Vogue Coat - Done!

Y’all probably already guessed this, but I also made my little knitted cowl to go with my new coat. It seemed appropriate, especially since I had a ball of Cascade 128 in the perfect shade of red just waiting to be used. I used the Blue Streak pattern, which was easy enough to memorize so I just carried the project around in my purse and knitted a row or two during downtime. Which was all the time – Christmas morning, knitting a cowl. Sitting in the movie theater waiting for the previews to end before The Wolf of Wall Street started, knitting a cowl. Waiting in line at emissions testing, knitting a cowl. Whatever, I love how portable knitting is! Ha!

Vogue Coat - Done!

No need to knit new gloves, as it goes perfectly with my childish skeleton gloves πŸ˜‰

Vogue Coat - Done!
Vogue Coat - Done!

In other cool coat-making news, I finally found a home for my Fabiani coat – my mom! It fits her perfectly, so she’s been wearing it for the past month. Yay!

Vogue Coat - Done!

Anyway, I guess that’s it! Yay for coat-making, and yay for this giant project to finally be over! πŸ™‚

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95 Responses to “Completed: The Vogue Coat”

  1. Carolyn January 9, 2014 at 8:53 am #

    Lauren – this is just awesome! It was so worth taking your time to get such a fantastic result.

  2. CarmencitaB January 9, 2014 at 8:54 am #

    I am such a fan of contrasting lining. Great coat! Congrats!

  3. clareyszabo January 9, 2014 at 8:55 am #

    Awesome! I love posts like this where you have followed the progress and then bam, the finished garment is up. Looks so good – can see all the benefits of your patient tailoring, and the plaid matching is bad ass. Oh yeah AND I want those gloves! xx

  4. yosami January 9, 2014 at 9:06 am #

    Simply lovely! Great tip about the sleeve easing, thanks. If I ever resume my coat-making, I’ll have to remember that and those gloves are awesome!

  5. Jenni Lithgow January 9, 2014 at 9:14 am #

    Fabulous!

  6. -N- January 9, 2014 at 9:15 am #

    Very nicely done. The silk charmeuse is a great choice as it is a lovely, lovely fabric with a great hand. One reason your coat is so warm is that silk is actually an excellent insulator, and is warmer than wool when wadded and used as a batting. With your interfacing and lining, and your wool, I would imagine you are delightfully comfortable, without weight or bulk. Beautiful!

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:16 am #

      That’s what I thought, regarding the silk as an insulator, so it’s good to know for sure! It’s also nice that it’s totally breathable (which is why I’m glad I sprung for the silk organza underlining and didn’t cheap out with polyester organza), so even when the temperature warms up here, the coat is still comfortable to wear πŸ™‚

      • -N- January 10, 2014 at 9:08 am #

        I love silk, and I love being comfortable and not sweaty. Polyesters and synthetics make me feel confined and trapped – that’s one reason why I got back into sewing awhile ago – no 100% cotton blouses! Blends in pants are okay if they are loose, but in tops, forget it. And double forget it for coats with rayon linings – it makes me feel almost panicky to be cold and sweating at the same time because of non-breathable fabric. The polyester used in fleece is different, though, and I don’t have a problem with it, because it breathes. I think you will fall even deeper in love with your coat because of your fabric choices!

  7. Elisse January 9, 2014 at 9:17 am #

    This is lovely! I’m gonna check out the tip about the sleeves, could come in handy when I ever decide on trying to make a coat myself (maybe one day when I’m a little more advanced!)

  8. carlalissa January 9, 2014 at 9:21 am #

    I simply love it…. if we can only get cold enough in Florida to use a coat like that!

  9. autumn January 9, 2014 at 9:23 am #

    insane amount of work, lady!!! great job! when i originally tried to load your page, my computer FROZE up; that must be how powerfully awesome the coat is, LOL!!

  10. Amy W January 9, 2014 at 9:32 am #

    Love love love!!!

  11. Jenny January 9, 2014 at 9:42 am #

    Congrats it looks AMAZE!

  12. tialys January 9, 2014 at 9:44 am #

    Great job! You will definitely not go unnoticed!

  13. Kim January 9, 2014 at 9:53 am #

    Ooh I looove your coat! The fabric is gorgeous and I really like the fit on you πŸ™‚ I think it will be a coat that you can wear and love for many years to come! Beautiful cowl too!

  14. Red Point Tailor January 9, 2014 at 10:24 am #

    Wonderful! Great job! And the gloves are stunning! πŸ™‚

  15. Virginia January 9, 2014 at 10:42 am #

    I think the extra time spent on things like coats is almost never wasted. It’s an investment.

    Also, congratulations on your new iron!

  16. Daniela M. January 9, 2014 at 10:58 am #

    Your coat looks amazing! The plaids match perfectly! And what a great excuse to knit a new scarf! You are getting me inspired to start sewing a coat as well!

  17. amynxdx January 9, 2014 at 11:13 am #

    It looks really great! I love plaid ❀ I have a couple of coats that I want to make but I'm kinda dreading them. They take so much time and patience and I lack a lot of that! But I'd love to have a spring jacket and/or rain coat… so I need to get on it!! Plus my husband wants a Japanese Military style jacket – that will be a task and a half!

  18. Chickeys January 9, 2014 at 11:13 am #

    Gah, it’s gorgeous!! The red lining is an awesome pop of color. I am on a total black-white-red kick right now…heh.

    Finding good RTW plaid is so hard. I’ve given up. πŸ˜›

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:18 am #

      Yeah, it’s a bummer that they get the best plaid fabrics too. Like, please let me buy some of that bolt so I can properly match up the seams on my garment haha

  19. mrsmole January 9, 2014 at 11:19 am #

    The other benefit from using flannel to ease in the cap of the sleeve is that it acts as a sleeve head batting inside as well and you sleeve heads look so nice and perky! Love the lining and buttons and perfect top stitching…a real winner here!

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:18 am #

      That’s true! I didn’t have to put sleeve heads in this coat since the flannel did a good enough job on it’s own πŸ™‚

  20. MarrieB January 9, 2014 at 11:20 am #

    It’s beautiful! The red cowl is the perfect accessory too.

  21. lisa g January 9, 2014 at 11:23 am #

    i love how this came out! your plaid matching is crazy good, and oh that lining… i die!

  22. Inclement January 9, 2014 at 11:27 am #

    That is BEAUTIFUL. *joins the envious hordes*

    I found your blog over the holidays, through your reviews of eShakti, because I’m trying ot figure out if they can be trusted :\. I don’t even sew, but I’ve spent beaucoup hours reading here because you do this just so well. You write excellently, you’re a great explainer, and you make it so entertaining and pretty. Pretty clothes, pretty pictures, pretty sewing room – and a bonus pretty tortoiseshell! Hi, Amelia!

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:20 am #

      Aw, you’re so sweet! Made me blush a little πŸ™‚ Amelia says hi back!

  23. Hazel January 9, 2014 at 11:36 am #

    Love this coat! It looks totally amazing and I love how well you’ve patterned matched it. Andd I’m gonna check out that sleeve insertion tutorial!

  24. Sylvie January 9, 2014 at 11:37 am #

    Awesome job! It looks fabulous!!

  25. sewsleepy January 9, 2014 at 11:44 am #

    love the coat and all those little details make it truly special. Also that lining is fab so inspiring

  26. Joanne January 9, 2014 at 11:46 am #

    Your coat is amazeballs. Nuf said.

  27. gingermakes January 9, 2014 at 11:52 am #

    This looks fantastic! It’s so you! Totally worth all the work that went into it. Oh, and GRAVITY-FEED IRON?! Wow! How awesome!

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:21 am #

      Yeah dude, it fucking RULES. I will never go back to a normal household iron haha. If you’re ever in the area, holler at me and we can press things and marvel at the steam output hahaha

  28. smittenness January 9, 2014 at 12:11 pm #

    This is just lovely. The lining is an awesome match and the fabric is way cool.Thanks for linking to that tutorial too, I’m sure that will stop a few tears over here.

  29. maddie January 9, 2014 at 12:15 pm #

    Yay for completing this coat! I want to sew Pauline Alice’s Ninot jacket this year and I’ll be coming back to your posts for tips on setting a sleeve. Thanks for the link to the tutorial!

  30. Jenny January 9, 2014 at 12:30 pm #

    You did a really amazing job on this. Thanks for all the process posts too. When I get the guts to make a coat, I’m definitely going back to those for a lil help!

  31. Erica B January 9, 2014 at 12:44 pm #

    Beautiful coat! You did an amazeball job on the plaid matching! And the inside is just as beautiful as the outside!

  32. Becky January 9, 2014 at 1:12 pm #

    Beautiful coat and beautiful job, Lauren. Me likie! I’m glad you went with the red silk lining, it’s one of those beautiful unexpected touches that you will always enjoy.

  33. Erika January 9, 2014 at 1:24 pm #

    You did an awesome job! Such a rewarding make, I am sure. Hope you get to wear it to pieces, it is beautiful. I am totally checking out the sleeve tutorial, I need some pointers… Thanks.

  34. Lisa Carver January 9, 2014 at 1:29 pm #

    That coat turned out so great! I love plaid coats. The cowl is cute too, and the skeleton gloves. I have kid’s werewolf gloves. Sometimes having tiny kid-sized hands has it’s benefits.

  35. Mae January 9, 2014 at 1:30 pm #

    sometimes I get funny looks- but I also like carrying my embroidery around for down time. πŸ™‚ I guess when your hobby is a lost art people tend to look at you like your in target rubbing sticks together to create a fire lol. Love the coat and the pop of the lining. I think it’s totally worth missing a deadline to get your coat to be of such good quality. & speaking of irons- i really need to up my iron game. The $25 dollar one I bought is living up to it’s price tag (duh- why wouldn’t I think it would?).

    Mae

  36. craftsanctuary January 9, 2014 at 1:32 pm #

    Your plaid matching is amazing! So much better than a mall coat πŸ™‚ LOVE the red contrast, btw. Fun fun fun!

  37. barbarajanemade January 9, 2014 at 1:53 pm #

    gorgeous coat, love the linning!

  38. Lana January 9, 2014 at 2:22 pm #

    Looks awsome! I think I need to make a lighter weight coat. The one I made a few years ago is so heavy that I can only really wear it a few weeks out of the year. I think you’ve just inspired my next project!

  39. Cisa Barry (@Cisamisa) January 9, 2014 at 2:22 pm #

    Love the new coat! And now I have an idea to play when with you come to visit. I’d be happy to show you how to drop in a lining, with bagged hem sans hand sewing or swing tacking. We can get all kinds of fancy and shit

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:21 am #

      Yes, I want to see how you do it!

  40. sewbusylizzy January 9, 2014 at 2:31 pm #

    Your plaid matching always makes me faint!
    I really love that you haven’t don’t any contrast colours, buttons or anything distracting on the outside, the b/w simplicity just sings all by itself!
    Thanks for the tip on setting in sleeves, I recently made a peacoat and was thinking WTF am I doing putting gathering stitching in fabric like this???
    The only issue I have is… I need a coat with silk charmeuse lining now…

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:22 am #

      I fail to see how a need for silk charmeuse lining is ever an issue… πŸ˜›

      • sewbusylizzy January 10, 2014 at 1:41 pm #

        LOL only if you live in Australia and you need a bank loan to buy it!

  41. Inclement January 9, 2014 at 2:57 pm #

    Oh! By the way, look, you match a famous gentleman burglar:

    http://lawrenceblock.com/spoons/

    (And no, I am not at all affiliated with this author, except as a long-time reader. But it is a rather fondly-regarded b&w checked coat, among mystery aficionados.)

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:22 am #

      Hahaha!! That is so awesome, my coat twin!

  42. fionaparker17 January 9, 2014 at 3:23 pm #

    O it’s beautiful! Congratulations on getting it finished, that must be a good feeling! I gotta tell you, the way you talk about making a tailored coat makes me want to get in on the action, I need to find a pattern!

  43. Corinne January 9, 2014 at 4:15 pm #

    Omg, I SO love your coat! And I really like your sassy lining. Very inspiring. πŸ™‚ I can’t wait until I finally build up the courage to actually make one for myself!!

  44. Colette Godfrey January 9, 2014 at 5:13 pm #

    such a lovely shape to it ;o)

  45. paisleyapron January 9, 2014 at 6:37 pm #

    Lovely coat! Thanks for the link to the sleeve head tutorial. Genius.

  46. adventuresofabeginnersewer January 9, 2014 at 6:43 pm #

    love love. Coats are so intimidating. You did such an amazing job! I wish winter got cold enough in Queensland for a coat like that.

  47. Bec January 9, 2014 at 7:04 pm #

    A hundred million WOW’s! Its gorgeous!

  48. Marie January 9, 2014 at 9:02 pm #

    It turned out so great. You matched the plaid so beautiful and the lining looks and sounds gorgeous.

  49. Megan R January 9, 2014 at 11:19 pm #

    This coat ended up being so gorgeous! Excellent plaid matching! That drives me a little crazy about plaid clothing from the mall. Definitely worth all your hard work!

  50. Lelie // A Bouquet of Buttons January 10, 2014 at 2:18 am #

    wow! that’s pretty!

  51. Marie January 10, 2014 at 6:43 am #

    Ok, ok…so your coat is cool. Amazing, in fact! I’m in awe and very jealous! But let’s talk about your fringe (bangs) please! I think I was so distracted by your owl sweater that I didn’t notice last time, but wow…love the new hair do! Stunning!

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 8:23 am #

      Hehe thank you! I gotta say, these are the best bangs I’ve ever had. My stylist must be some kind of hair wizard πŸ™‚

  52. Linda Hyams January 10, 2014 at 7:00 am #

    I am so envious of that coat! You look amazing and what a good job!

  53. marisolsen99 January 10, 2014 at 9:04 am #

    Seriously adorable Lauren – and extremely nice craftsmanship!!

  54. dressingtherole January 10, 2014 at 9:16 am #

    Such a great coat!! Congrats! Thanks for helping to demystify the coat making process. In fact, I’m feeling inspired to try my hand at it! The one thing that still stumps me, though, is choosing the materials to use for interfacing and under/interlining. Could you maybe talk a little about those choices? (I know you discussed the silk organza, but have you used other materials in the past? And interfacing?)

    I always love your super-detailed posts – they are so helpful!

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 10:40 am #

      I can’t really speak with too much experience, since I’ve only underlined a couple of coats. Silk organza is good because it gives the fabric body without a lot of bulk (although it *does* get expensive, I won’t lie about that!). If you are underlining for warmth, try using flannel (just plain pajama flannel is fine!) or even lambswool (warmer, but more $$).

      For interfacing, hair canvas is the standard if you are going full-on tailoring – you would interface the fronts, the collars, and the hemlines. I also like to use a light or mediumweight fusible for interfacing the facings, as it adds some body without the bulk of the hair canvas. It really depends on the fabric you are using; you just have to play around with scraps and see what works best for your project πŸ™‚

  55. symondezyn January 10, 2014 at 10:16 am #

    Beautiful! The collar is stellar, and the red silk lining is the cherry on top, and must feel SOOO dreamy to wear! πŸ™‚

  56. mertxelasierra January 10, 2014 at 11:12 am #

    Hey! Congrats on your fantastic coat, it looks just great. Sleeves and lapels, everything looks perfect. But of course, you chose all the high end materials: wool, silk charmeuse, silk organza, wow! and all the techiniques, like hand interling… that is a high couture coat!
    I must test this contraption to insert the sleeve ease in. I am making myself a “channel” jacket and the sleeves need to be perfect. But a have a couple of questions. When you stitich the bias, do you do it on the stitiching line, or in the seam allowance? And when you sew it to the bodice, you leave the bias there for ever and ever?

    • LLADYBIRD January 10, 2014 at 11:16 am #

      I sew it right along the stitching line and then insert the sleeve along the same stitching line. And yes, leave the bias there! It acts as a sleeve head, which gives your sleeve cap a nice bit of fullness (or you can use something with less body, like interfacing, which won’t give as much fullness if you don’t need it. But still, leave it on :)).

  57. christine January 10, 2014 at 11:54 am #

    gorgeous!!! and it must feel so satisfying to have completed such a big project!

  58. Tasha @ By Gum, By Golly January 10, 2014 at 12:12 pm #

    What a kickass coat, I love it!! Looks perfect. I bow to your plaid matching skills. Even after reading everything everyone (including you) have written about the subject, the idea just makes me twitchy. lol

  59. Ali January 10, 2014 at 1:24 pm #

    Those plaids match up beautifully, plus really like the lining.

  60. Nykied January 10, 2014 at 3:58 pm #

    I have those gloves too! Fab coat too! :0) xox

  61. denise January 11, 2014 at 3:38 pm #

    Love your coat, beautifully done! I could swear Vogue still has that pattern… yeah,v8346…short view.

  62. didyoumakethat January 12, 2014 at 3:24 am #

    Bravo! I love everything about this coat, but I particularly love the red lining and – yes! – the pointy pointiness of those collar points. Maybe I need a gravity feed iron. Such inspiring work!

  63. Becca January 12, 2014 at 11:44 am #

    Beautiful job! You look so warm and cozy. Your plaid-matching abilities are truly beyond compare. Thanks for the tip about setting in sleeves. I will definitely be giving that a try soon.

  64. kimmie January 13, 2014 at 7:31 pm #

    THAT COAT IS THE JAM!!! I love a black and white plaid. SO HARD! I am so sad because I love long coats but can’t wear them on account of sitting down all the time and being hella short waisted. Let me know if you have any tips of cute jackets that aren’t straight up belero!

  65. Kelly January 16, 2014 at 5:50 pm #

    Oooo, I love this coat so much! There is so much attention to detail and it really shows in the final product. And you are a plaid matching ninja for sure πŸ˜‰ I have been following your coat making with great interest, and poring over all of the info and links you have shared. I am getting started on a jacket, this one:

    http://republiqueduchiffon.com/2013/11/05/patron-manteau-gerard/

    It’s a relaxed style, so should be easy as far as fitting but I want to use some of the nicer tailoring to make it a good quality jacket. I ditched the acetate lining I had bought to use silk charmeuse, and am underlining with silk organza also. I am going to go ahead and use fusibles for the collar and facings. And thinking about a bound buttonhole…I’ll definitely buy Karen’s ebook! Thanks again for sharing all of the details as you go, I know it is a lot of work to photograph and blog but it has helped me so much! (Well, we’ll see how it all turns out but I am optimistic!)

  66. Kat January 16, 2014 at 10:58 pm #

    LOVE the coat – I’m always a sucker for the combo of a nice plaid and a colourful lining. Charmeuse is totally the rolls royce of silks – more like LUST!

  67. missjoiedevivre January 18, 2014 at 1:18 am #

    That is one masterful piece of sewing. You really nailed this coat, it is impeccable, and it looks amazing on you!

  68. Kelly January 20, 2014 at 10:58 am #

    Gorgeous!! I love the plaid and the silk lining, how luxurious! Congratulations!

  69. Jenny January 22, 2014 at 11:04 am #

    Hiya! So I just went and bought the same gravity iron – thanks for the reco! I have a question though: do you actually have the water bottle 2 meters (5 feet-ish?) above the iron? I’m trying to work out how to do that – I don’t think my ceiling is even 2 meters above my ironing board…. Any tips welcome!

    • LLADYBIRD January 23, 2014 at 3:33 pm #

      Mine is almost exactly 5ft over the ironing board. I wish I could get it higher, but like you – my ceiling isn’t that high! I would measure the actual distance and see what it is, you might be surprised (I was, anyway haha).

      Also, just a tip – that water reservoir holds about a gallon of water, which means it get HEAVY. Make sure you are drilling that hanger into a stud! We actually used a heavy-duty plant holder that is drilled into the wall at ceiling height, as my ceilings are popcorn and thus not very strong πŸ™‚

      • Jenny February 10, 2014 at 8:54 am #

        I made it work, thanks!

        Do you find that water leaks out of the iron sole sometimes? Do you have any tips to stop it doing that?!

        • LLADYBIRD February 10, 2014 at 4:14 pm #

          It does leak occasionally, but I’ve noticed that only happens if I don’t let it heat up long enough. As long as I give it a good 10 minutes to get hot, I don’t see any leaking for the rest of the time that I’m using it πŸ™‚

  70. Jenny February 10, 2014 at 8:55 am #

    Oh, I finally finished my coat!!! Thanks for all your posts – I picked up many tips! πŸ˜€

    http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/02/birth-announcement-its-coat.html

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