Completed: McCall’s 7351 // Style Maker Fabrics Spring Canvas Blog Tour

1 Apr

Hey guys! I’m excited to be the final wrap-up stop for the Spring Canvas Blog Tour with Style Maker Fabrics!

McCall's 7351

It’s always really flattering to get asked to participate in a blog tour – although I typically send my regrets, as I think they can be a little exhausting if you’ve got a dozen people talking about, say, the same book or whatever. Kind of boring and personally I skip right over those posts! I found the idea of this particular blog tour a little more intriguing, though, as it is all about spring fabrics and spring fashions and all the fun stuff that comes with that! I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a necessarily fashionable person – I like the way I dress, of course, but I don’t exactly go out of my way to follow trends as they come into fashion. So this might not be a very “on-trend” outfit for me to make, but it is something that I will wear! So there’s that!

For this tour, I was given free range to choose whatever fabric I wanted from the new spring arrivals available at Style Maker Fabrics. Surprise surprise – I went with this navy rayon challis printed with cherries from Cotton + Steel, because I am nothing if I’m not predictable (I don’t even like cherries, but this is my third cherry print dress. See one and two. Hey, at least this one isn’t black hahaha!). It was a bit of a crunch to get this finished in time for my ~tour date~ – what’s with being out of town, getting sick, and then playing mad catch-up at work. But, spoiler, I finished it just in time to wear for Easter Sunday! Yay!

McCall's 7351

I used McCall’s 7351 to make my cherry dream dress, which is a new pattern from the McCall’s spring collection. It’s a classic shirt dress with a few extra options. I liked the idea of the straight skirt with the curved hemline that looks like, well, a shirttail, so I went with that option. Originally, I considered adding sleeves – but upon making my muslin, they were weirdly restrictive and I didn’t feel like going through the drama of figuring out how to fix it. Sleeveless dress it is! I actually prefer it this way; I think it’ll be more comfortable in the summer without sleeves.

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

I cut the size 6, based on the finished measurements, and didn’t make any pattern adjustments except the shorten the hem quite a bit at the end. The waist is a bit bigger than what I’m used to wearing – hence the belt – but I’m going to leave it like this for now because I suspect I will looove that loose waist come 95* weather 😉 I experimented with moving the placement of the buttons at the apex of my chest to eliminate button placket gap – but as you can see in the photos below, there’s still a tiny bit of pulling as it’s not *quite* in the right place. Whatever, I’ll figure it out with the next dress haha 🙂

Construction-wise, this is a really easy pattern. It has all the pieces of a proper button-up – separate button placket, collar stand, self-lined yoke – and I’ve made so many of those, I could do that in my sleep at this point. I used a very lightweight interfacing as not to interfere with the drape of the fabric, and finished all the seams with French seams and bias facing for the arm holes and hem. I used navy thread for the construction, and red thread for the topstitching and button holes. The buttons are from Mood Fabrics in NYC. I had to bring a swatch of fabric with me to get a good match – the cherries are more of an orange red than a true red – but this looks pretty good to me!

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

I LOVED working with this fabric! Rayon challis is one of my favorite things to wear – not necessarily to sew, as it’s pretty shifty and hard to wrangle (honesty, I’d rather sew silk crepe – I think it’s easier to work with!), but it’s worth the effort because it feels SO GOOD in hot weather. This rayon is a little heavier than most of the challis (challises? challis’? challi?) that I’ve worked with in the past. It’s almost the same weight of a poplin, so it’s not sheer at all and has a nice heft to it. It’s also easier to work with and not as shifty (but still feels really good!). This was my first experience using fabric from Cotton + Steel and I get why people love this stuff so much. It’s really luxurious feeling, wears and washes well. And cherries! 🙂 I still can’t get behind their quilting cotton (well, not as garment fabric. Sorry. Old habits die hard), but they can continue to make this rayon and I will continue to sew it 😀

McCall's 7351

Here it is on the form. I prefer it with the belt – I definitely need the waist definition (and the fact that the waist is already too big is also a factor here).

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

McCall's 7351

I always put a hook and eye at the waistline of dresses like this – it keeps things from gaping, but still allows me to wear a belt (buttons are too bulky under a belt, ew).

McCall's 7351

I know my photos don’t look very springy! It’s all green and flowering here in Tennessee, but not in my yard apparently haha. And while my neighbor has a beautiful cherry blossom tree that is in FULL GORGEOUS BLOOM right now, I do not have those kinds of guts to stand under it for photos! This is who was watching me take these photos – which is nerve-wracking enough:

McCall's 7351

Kevin & Wilbur! Did I mention that my roommate bought a second pig as a companion for Kevin? Well. Kevin has a boyfriend now. Also, we are pretty sure she’s pregnant now with his babies. Her stomach is massive – like about to drag on the ground because it hangs so low. Hopefully there will be piglet pictures in a future post! 🙂

blog tour

Hey, so that’s all for this part of the Spring Canvas blog tour – but be sure to check out all the other participants if you haven’t done so already! Lots of really amazing stuff to see 🙂 ALSO, just an FYI – but all domestic orders, regardless of size, ship for $5 from Style Maker Fabrics (and discounted international shipping, yo!). Cheap shipping is good through 4/3/16, so you’ve still got a couple days 🙂

Thanks again to Style Maker Fabrics for letting me be a part of this blog tour! 😀

McCall's 7351

Note: The fabric was provided to me by Style Maker Fabrics so that I could participate in their blog tour!

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47 Responses to “Completed: McCall’s 7351 // Style Maker Fabrics Spring Canvas Blog Tour”

  1. Carolyn April 1, 2016 at 8:04 am #

    Lauren – what a lovely dress! I didn’t realize that Cotton & Steel made rayon fabrics?! So glad to know. This dress will be perfect for spring/summer!

    • LLADYBIRD April 1, 2016 at 8:28 am #

      Yeah they do! And the quality is really exceptional 🙂 yay for rayon in fun prints!

  2. LinB April 1, 2016 at 8:07 am #

    Easy fix to securely secure that bust gap: make a buttonhole in the BUTTON side of the band, between the two buttons where the gap exists. Put your button on the WRONG side of the buttonhole side of the band. Button to the inside — does not show when you are wearing the dress. Keeps dress securely fastened.

    This solution is old old old, probably predates the Gutenberg press. Possibly predates buttons.

    • Chris @ makeandwear April 1, 2016 at 8:13 am #

      Great solution 🙂

    • LLADYBIRD April 1, 2016 at 8:29 am #

      I’ve been doing this solution on a big chunk of my buttoned handmade garments 🙂 it’s a great fix when you can’t move existing button holes!

  3. Ms. Bear April 1, 2016 at 9:08 am #

    This dress looks great on you–they all do! I LOVE the red top-stitching and perfect French seams.

  4. Deborah April 1, 2016 at 9:24 am #

    Thanks for this post. Checked out Style Maker fabrics. Love the fact that they allow me to search by garment type and color.

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 11:49 am #

      Yeah, I love the searching functions on their site! Very useful 🙂

  5. Tomasa April 1, 2016 at 9:34 am #

    Such an adorable print. Pairing it with the red belt and sneakers is perfect!

  6. Jan April 1, 2016 at 9:48 am #

    Love the dress, such a cute print! And I like the red thread for the buttonholes. A newbie question for you–are there rules when it comes to buttonhole direction (vertical or horizontal)? I am making a shirtdress (Hawthorn) and the pattern indicates all vertical buttonholes. Checking out other Hawthorns online, I see some in both directions. And would it be different for a different garment, say for buttons down the front of a skirt?

    • LinB April 1, 2016 at 11:21 am #

      No rules, it’s all a style thing. I’ve even seen diagonal buttonholes on some ready-to-wear (rtw) when the button band was cut on the bias. I’m sure that was to keep the buttonhole from stretching out weirdly, since bias is far more flexible than straight-of-grain.

      A mechanical reason you might choose horizontal over vertical is when there’s a good deal of stress on the button — as on a waistline closure, for instance (think jeans waistband, tra la) or on a tightly-fitted vest or jacket.

      For the same reason, you might want vertical buttonholes to help keep a pocket flap buttoned — entirely depends on where the stress is likely to occur.

      You don’t want the button to keep popping out of the buttonhole … Or maybe you do, I won’t judge you. Thus endeth the lesson.

      • Jan April 1, 2016 at 12:22 pm #

        No, I hate popping buttons! That all makes sense…Thanks for the info 😊

      • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 11:54 am #

        LinB answered all this the same way I would have! Vertical button holes are what I prefer, but areas with more stress/movement do better with horizontal 🙂

  7. Elle April 1, 2016 at 9:56 am #

    GURL THAT TOPSTITCHING THO. I love rayon too but agree with you that it is a PITA to work with. Also, I refuse to dry clean it (who has the time?!) and even with my gentlest washing I find that rayon gets fuzzy and pilly faster than my other garments! Maybe it’s just me mishandling it…but I do love to wear it so much!

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 11:58 am #

      Haaaa I never dry clean anything! I just wash it in the machine on cold, and hang to dry. I don’t get pilling or fuziness with my rayon – are you putting it in the dryer? That will definitely shorten it’s life span (and also, you have to iron, which is lame haha). Either way, it’s worth it because it’s SO NICE to wear!

  8. Kristel Quintana April 1, 2016 at 10:08 am #

    Thanks for the review. I really like the skirt options for this pattern and might have passed it up if I had you not blogged about it. Personally I think the bodice could use some vertical bust darts in the front. I get that it’s supposed to look casual but I think they would help with the waist definition and make a smoother transition. I’d probably cut in the arm holes a little for a slight racerback effect – I think it’s more flattering and would be especially so with well defined arms like yours.

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 12:02 pm #

      I think the pattern as-is works really well for this particularly drapey fabric, but I’d be interested to try your changes with something that has a bit more body. Could definitely look pretty cool!

  9. Sue @ A Colourful Canvas April 1, 2016 at 10:59 am #

    LOL…I can’t stop thinking about all things challisisis. Anyways, you can’t go wrong with this cherries print…the silhouette of the McCalls pattern is perfect for it…and perfect finish with the buttons.

  10. Mustavo Gaia April 1, 2016 at 11:29 am #

    A+A.
    Draftwise, you should try vertical dart to mark the waist. For men’s shirts they are not essential, but for women’s they smooth the side seams.
    Stylingwise, try closing the belt with a knot, it would ressemble to a cherry pair.
    As I’m like to play with leather, seeing you belt I thought about one a little larger one side red (cherry), the other black (navy), so the knot would have more effect.
    I n case you are wondering, you could ditch the pleat below the yoke. They are useful to offset the sleeve’s movement.

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 12:10 pm #

      I may try the dart for the next one, but I’m ok with the loose shape on this particular dress! And I do like the pleat below the yoke, I think it’s a nice design detail 🙂

  11. Rose April 1, 2016 at 12:58 pm #

    I love this dress – everything about it, even the looser waist for summer comfort! I want to copycat it – dare I buy anymore fabric? The rayon sounds awesome.

  12. Beth April 1, 2016 at 1:00 pm #

    I agree re the pleat below the yoke, but that’s one of my favorite things about this dress — so unexpected and “look at me.” This is such a timeless classic but with Lauren T. touches that make it most definitely “on [your] trend.” Love it! Is there a way to predict where the buttonholes need to go to avoid having to perform minor sewing surgery at the end?

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 12:13 pm #

      Thank you!! For button holes, you really just need to find the apex at your breasts – and put a button there. Then you can evenly space the rest of the button holes above and below it. As long as you get the button right at the apex, it should eliminate gaping.

  13. Aubrey (@Aubreyland325) April 1, 2016 at 1:27 pm #

    I love that dress! Super beautiful.

  14. vintage51 April 1, 2016 at 4:24 pm #

    Reblogged this on vintagethrifter51.com and commented:
    This dress is gorgeous. I love the fabric pattern and the details of the red top stitching and buttons. So perfect with the dress.

  15. PsychicKathleen April 1, 2016 at 5:51 pm #

    I am in awe of your top-stitching! It’s just beautiful and of course you have confidence in doing it using red thread! Yikes 🙂 This style just suits you to a t. A friend of mine who looks much like you was just saying the other day she’d like to make herself a shirt dress this spring so I’ll send her the link to this pattern. It has some nice extras like the shirt style hem that give it a unique look.

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 12:24 pm #

      Thank you! I bet your friend will love this pattern – lots of fun details that really kick it up a notch 🙂

  16. ellegeemakes April 1, 2016 at 7:59 pm #

    I love that fabric and considered purchasing it on a recent shopping trip…now I wish I had. As usual, your construction details are so perfect, I’m inspired to up my game! Love Kevin and Wilbur.

    • LLADYBIRD April 2, 2016 at 12:25 pm #

      Well there’s always $5 shipping to fix that mistake 😉 haha!!

  17. Ines April 2, 2016 at 2:02 pm #

    I love cherries too! Yes, rayon rocks it has the fluidity of silk but it doesn’t stain as easy. I love it that you are making something you like regardless of its a trend or not you need to be you right? Do you have enough for a self fabric belt? not that you can’t use the red one its just that it can be more comfortable to wear than leather (it’s my main reason for going beltless) Anyways…cute dress and piggies!

    • LLADYBIRD April 9, 2016 at 11:22 am #

      I could make a self fabric belt, but I honestly think I’m over that style for the time being 🙂 I like the contrast of the leather belt!

  18. Margo April 3, 2016 at 2:51 pm #

    So pretty and so you! Your topstitching looks great…so nice in red. I love rayon too…you will get lots of wear out of this one!

  19. mertxelasierra April 6, 2016 at 12:14 pm #

    Lovely pattern and lovely fabric, oh yes. I have to do some research about rayon… is it a natural fiber? I love how it looks on you. And congrats on your piglet family!! I cannot imagine what are you going to do with so much pigs if not eating them (which I imagine you won’t…). I’ll check out those fabrics, shame I am no t in time for the shipping discount.

    • LinB April 8, 2016 at 12:17 pm #

      Rayon is one of those ??? fabrics. Technically, it is manufactured, so it is a man-made fabric. But it is manufactured from wood cellulose, so … it is also a natural fabric. Other fabrics that come from the same or similar sources are: viscose (virtually synonymous with rayon), Tencel, and Lyocel.

    • LLADYBIRD April 9, 2016 at 11:33 am #

      The actual make up of the fiber is natural, but the fabric itself is man-made, if that makes sense!

  20. fionaparker17 April 15, 2016 at 1:56 am #

    Oo this is such a beauty of a dress! The kind of one that you wish you could own!!

  21. Esther May 15, 2016 at 3:17 pm #

    Beautiful!! I love your dress ❤ it fits you very well!
    Esther

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Spring Canvas Blog Tour Recap – Style Maker Fabrics - June 4, 2016

    […] Day Twelve: LLadybird […]

  2. 2016: A Year In Review | LLADYBIRD - December 31, 2016

    […] McCall’s 7351 Probably the dress I wore the most all summer (other than my Chambray Hawthorne, which still gets TONS of love). It is easy to throw on, super comfortable in the heat thanks to the rayon (and doesn’t show sweat, thanks to the dark color + pattern), and also it’s just super freaking cute. I got stopped and complimented a lot while wearing this dress – and introduced a lot of people to the idea of making your own clothes haha🙂 […]

  3. Completed: Pink Flamingo B5526 | LLADYBIRD - March 27, 2017

    […] lovely for quilting – but even the rayons and lawns tend to look, well, quilt-ty (except that cherry print rayon I got a couple of years ago, which is equally gorgeous and ooh I can’t wait until it warms up […]

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