LMAO for some reason I’ve been sitting on these photos since Thanksgiving, no idea why I’ve been dragging my feet to post this! Anyway, better late than never!
This is the Magnolia dress from Deer & Doe, this time in View A with the plunging neckline, long sleeves, and a very mini length (ok, so that’s not view A exactly, but let me live). I’ve made this dress before and wore it a few times this last year, and I was interested to try it again with some modifications.
My original Magnolia dress skews quite a bit more romantic than how I normally dress (and while I’m not quite ready to let it go yet, I will admit that it doesn’t get a whole lot of wear), but I loved the pattern and I wanted to try it with a more modern twist. One thing I have noticed with my OG dress is the bust is just a bit more generous than my actual body. As I mentioned, I sewed a different view, sized down to a 34 at the bust (keeping the 38 at the waist / hip) and made a quick muslin to assess the fit. Here are the changes I made:
– Took an additional 1/4″ out of the CB along the fold for my narrow back
– Removed a 1/2″ wedge from the front neckline because it was gaping (same as this method, except obviously on the front. Also, oh my god I miss that dresssss)
– Reduced the upper bust by about 1/4″ by shaving it off the princess seams to the bust point (I wanted to wear this dress without a bra and my breasts tend to be a little more bottom-heavy)
– Removed an additional 1/4″ off the side seam
Sounds like a lot, but it was just tiny tweaks! I wanted the dress to be fitted, but still skim over my body (rather than just be tight). Shortening the neckline to bring in the gaping was definitely the biggest thing; I knew I wasn’t going to wear a bra with this dress and I wanted to be CONFIDENT that there was no danger of accidental nip-slips. I’m not going to go into detail the weird gymnastics I performed in my studio to really test this theory, but believe me… the ladies aren’t going anywhere.
I bought my rayon crepe from Stone Mountain & Daughter Fabrics, back in March last year. I loved the autumnal colors and that beautiful drape! I took home 3 yards, and used nearly every last inch of it, despite this dress being a mini. Those sleeves took up a lot of fabric!
Construction-wise, I didn’t make too many changes to the dress beyond what the instructions call for. I did opt to self-line the entire top – the instructions just have you self-line the bodice, which I think is fine but why not the back? By doing this, I was able to eliminate all the bias facings, and have a completely clean finish. I also self-faced the waistband pieces, again, for a clean finish but this time on the inside. This is just personal preference; I don’t like exposed waistband seams in dresses and for the most part, I always face them. I don’t have any photos of this, so you’ll need to use your imagination.
To keep that neckline intact and immune to stretching out, I used strips of twill tape to stabilize the edges (here is a similar method to what I used). One thing I irrationally hate in clothing is weird gapey necklines that don’t stay close to the body, so I will do whatever it takes to keep that shit in check. Especially with a low-cut top like this, and again, especially since I ain’t wearing a bra with it! Anyway, the twill tape means that edge is nice and stable.
Unfortunately, I do think I was a little overzealous with my neckline tweaking – I shortened the twill tape too much, because now the center front of the waistband rides up. It’s noticeable for sure, but it also looks intentional so we’ll just say that was the case.
Surprisingly, the sleeves were the correct length for me without any adjustments (I think having a gathered elastic edge makes things a bit more forgiving). And I believe I did shorten the skirt length further, but I couldn’t tell you by how much (sorry). It is pretty short, though I love it! I feel so sassy and groovy and a little floaty when I wear this dress.
Anyway, that’s all for this make! Short and sweet (both the dress and the blog post lol). I’d love to make this again in a solid color in the future, but for now, I love the fun print!
LLADYBIRD 
I like both versions but agree this one is a bit more flattering on you (unless it’s just the pictures, or what I’m used to seeing you in…)
I remember stripey Belladone! What became of her? 😦
I did not intentionally type that smiley, just in case it seems negative in any way. Was curious, is all. #internetweirdness
No, I think you’re right – this one is more flattering on me! I just think I look better in shorter skirts 🙂
I eventually outgrew the Belladone (it was verrrry fitted and thus did not allow for much weight gain lol) and IIRC I think I sold it on Etsy! So hopefully someone else is loving it as much as I did 🙂
This is just the cutest! Great choice of fabric. And the style totally suits you!
Thank you!
Oh yay! So great to see your version and modifications, especially around the self facing the back and using twill tape instead of bias for the neckline.
I just made my first magnolia and wore it out to DC Frocktails but plan to make another with appropriate adjustments and likely now your tricks 🙂 I had no idea how thick to make my bias and how much stretching as I went was enough or too much so it’s a smidge rippley but lesson learned!
TBH when it comes to bias facings, I stretch as much as the bias will (comfortably) allow. You want it to be a bit smaller than the edge it’s getting sewn to, that will prevent ripples 🙂
Oh yay! So great to see your version and modifications, especially around the self facing the back and using twill tape instead of bias for the neckline.
I just made my first magnolia and wore it out to DC Frocktails but plan to make another with appropriate adjustments and likely now your tricks 🙂 I had no idea how thick to make my bias and how much stretching as I went was enough or too much so it’s a smidge rippley but lesson learned!
Another great make! Makes me take a second look at a pattern I had overlooked. I’ve been trying to come up with a top or dress project for Wardrobe Week. Putting this on the maybe list. You seriously could not look any cuter! Love the length.
Thank you!
Hey! Your dress looks lovely and really your style. Do you think it would view B would work for breastfeeding in a woven fabric?
I’m probably not the best person to ask this question; I don’t breastfeed and have no idea what will and will not work for that. Sorry!
I’m glad you shared it! I especially love the sleeves, and the way you brought up the length, but also especially love the fabric and especially love the whole thing…
You make lovely things, but even more you make me wanna get sewing! So I gotta go!
Then I have accomplished what I set out to do 😀 GO SEW!!
Wow these mods came out beautifully and suit both you and the fabric! I actually love the way your waistband shape changed with the mods. I think it’s flattering and more pleasing than the original shape, in my opinion. I am petite and didn’t think I’d ever try this pattern, but you are changing my mind!
Thank you! I think I actually do like the slightly curved waistband but it was definitely a happy accident – it is supposed to be straight. Oh well, it’s a ~Design Element~ lol
Such a lovely fabric / dress combo!
Thank you!
You look awesome! Like you’re at some wild event in ’70s London where a lot of famous people with incredible hair and a lot of drugs are also in attendance. Thanks for sharing all the details on your adjustments, etc.; it is always so helpful.
You look so cute in this dress. I’d say it’s just about the perfect fall outfit. Great color with bits of swish, sass and sexy. And the raised waist seam makes you look even slimmer.