I finished this dress much earlier in the year (like, January!), took photos a month ago, and am now finally getting around to posting it! I should not be this proud of myself considering how much of a slacker I am, but here we are.
This is the Magnolia Dress from Deer & Doe patterns. I’ve had my eye on this off and on since it was released. The design is pretty similar to this vintage Simplicity pattern that I cannot seem to stop making, but with some slight changes and a better overall fit (for me, anyway!). I love both options – one of these days I want to make that long-sleeved maxi with the big ol’ front slit, YES PLEASE – but for now, the short view with flutter sleeves has totally been my jam.
Also, fun fact – the Magnolia is my favorite tree. Just so you know!
ANYWAY. Earlier this year, Workroom Social was gearing up to release a new line of fabrics and Jennifer asked if I’d like a piece to try out. Obviously I was immediately sold, and was sent 2 yards of this Fleur design in navy from the Bantam line designed by Kelli Ward. As soon as I saw the fabric – I mean even before it was in my hands, but definitely after, too – I immediately thought of the Magnolia pattern as I felt like it would be a great match for this floaty and colorful rayon. I’ve sewn with Workroom Social fabrics a few times and I really cannot give them the full amount of praise that they deserve. Super high quality, beautiful rayon that is surprisingly easy to sew and comes in a range of really, really fucking cool designs.
So… the short answer is, yes, this fabric (or any fabrics from the Workroom Social fabrics line) was a great match for this pattern. However, I was skimping on yardage as the pattern calls for closer to 3 yards, and I only had 2. Not one to be defeated by something as silly as fabric requirements (pfft), I spent a couple hours one evening working on a giant puzzle of fitting every single pattern piece on my fabric. I shortened the sleeves by 1″ to get them to fit, and ended up cutting the waistband facing, bias facing, and tie facing all out of a nice lightweight navy cotton fabric – but I eventually made it fit! Go me!
After I had everything cut, sewing was pretty simple and fun! I decided to sew the dress entirely with French seams, as I love a good French seam in rayon. My quick muslin showed that I did not need any fitting adjustments, however, this rayon is much floatier than the cotton muslin I used and required a little bit of extra tweaking as I sewed. I ended up taking about 1/2″ from the center back, and pulling in the side seams at the underarm by another 5/8″. I started with a 36 bust grading to a 38 hip; this makes me wonder if I might have been better off cutting a smaller bust size. Whatever, it fits great now!
I also came into a little surprise when I realized that I didn’t have a long enough invisible zipper for the side seam! The pattern calls for 16″, and mine was 9″ long (not that I bought the wrong size, it’s just that I had this perfectly coordinating pink zip in my stash that was DETERMINED to use, shortness be damned). I figured that since the bodice has a cross-over front, it allows just *barely* enough room for me to wriggle in. Generally I don’t recommend using a zipper that is that much drastically shorter than what you need, but in my case it worked out pretty well.
Speaking of that invisible zipper – I’m gonna toot my own horn here now and say LOOK AT HOW GOOD IT LOOKS! After finishing the entire dress with beautiful French seams, it felt lazy to throw in a zipper with serged edges. So I used my remaining bias facing pieces to add Hong Kong seams to either side of my zipper opening, creating a very lovely finish that reflects the rest of the interior of the dress.
The only downside to making this dress when I did was that I had to put it in the closet for a few months before it was warm enough to wear! (yes, I realize sweaters and tights and layering exists but that does not change the fact that rayon itself is not a very warm fabric!) I actually didn’t wear this at all until last month for Easter Sunday brunch with my family! But it was worth the wait, because I really love it. The fabric is beautiful and hangs with a gorgeous drape, and I like that the neckline sits close to my body and stays well in place. The length is the same original length from the pattern, and while it feels a smidge long on me (I’m used to showing my knees, and then some), I’m trying to get used to it!
By the way, I took these photos in my new front yard! Isn’t it super cute!
I’m gonna leave you with this photo that we got on Easter! That’s my mom, my brother Mikil, and my sister-in-law Sarah (I know y’all are dying to know so I’ll just say, yes, Sarah is wearing a Sew Over It Penny Blouse). Love these nerds so much!!
** Note: the rayon fabric used in this post was given to me by Workroom Social, with no requirement to post a review or finished product.
LLADYBIRD 
Hurray for breathable fabrics in the miasmic southern summer! Hurray for slow sewing! Hurray for French seams!
File away for the next time you insert a side-seam zip in a dress: install the zipper so that it closes FROM THE BOTTOM. Far less likely to unzip itself as you wear the garment.
This hint is brought to you by teachers in the theatrical costume shop at the University of Southern Mississippi in Hattiesburg, circa 1980.
I’ve heard that tip before but I actually don’t like zipping my zipper when it’s upside-down! It feels… too weird haha. Since this one is closed at the top is pretty easy to do the zipper up and down!
Your dress looks absolutely gorgeous on you, love the fabric, love the French seam commitment LOL. Extra details that are visible only to you is what makes sewing so fun. Why no buy in a store? Well would a store have a perfect pink zipper with Hong Kong binding?? :p
Exactly! If I’m going to go to the effort of making my own clothes, I want them to be pretty on the inside and not anything like you would find in a store!
it is even beautiful on the inside!!!
Yes!
I adore that rayon! So glad you could still use the pink zip, little touches like that make me happy ;o)
Me too! I love it!!
Gorgeous dress and beautifully made. I like that you managed to use the wrong size zipper – we’ve all tried a slight ‘bodge’ in our sewing escapades, in my case they don’t usually turn out so well!
Haha oh I have PLENTY of those incidents in my sewing history, too! I just have been doing this long enough that I *usually* (not always, but… usually) can tell if something is a terrible idea or not. Sometimes I still manage to surprise myself, though! 🙂
Lauren- that is a beautiful dress! It looks amazing on you. I appreciate you taking the time to include so many technical details when you write up a blog post.
And, a lovely picture of your family too!
Katen
Lovely dress and so nice to see you looking happy and relaxed in your green front garden (I can never get used to ‘yard’, which has very different connotations in Britain!) and with your family. You seem in a better place now, after all the ups and downs of recent years. Hoorah! Always enjoy your blog, so look forward to more makes and more house stuff, too.
Ha, I am also a master at a pattern puzzle. My boyfriend never understands why It takes me so long to cut things out. Also, you just put this pattern on my must have list!! I love the maxi version and am going to have to give it a go before the summer ends but I think I will actually buy fabric just for this project. I don’t want to play puzzles with such large pattern pieces.
Your dress is looking gorgeous on you. I just loved the fabric and design of the dress. It is perfect for the summer season. Great work!
Stitches
Thanks