Alright y’all, I’m back with one more jeans post – the ~Designer Jeans~ Edition!
Thanks to Vogue 2442, I was able to make my own pair of Calvin Klein jeans 😀
Before we get too far into the post, though, I just want to acknowledge how absolutely stupid this envelope cover is. You can barely see any of the details of the jeans (although the butt close-up is helpful, and to be completely transparent here, it’s a nice butt), and I don’t know why that woman is holding her leg up like that because you definitely can’t do it in these jeans. Nothing about this cover art (or lack thereof) makes me want to try this pattern, but nevertheless, I persevered. For science.
Anyway, here are mine!
I went down a little rabbit hole last fall while looking at vintage jeans. I reaaaaaally wanted some vintage Calvin Kleins, if only for the brag factor, but my budget currently doesn’t allow me to spend hundreds of dollars on someone’s used jeans (RIP, the vintage market). I considered sewing them, but recalled looking up vintage CK patterns years ago and they were going for obscene wads of money. Just out of curiosity, I checked again – and was surprised to see that there are plenty to choose from for $10-$20. Calvin Klein licensed his name to Vogue patterns a bunch throughout the 80s and 90s, occasionally offering a jeans pattern. There were loads of mom jeans to choose from (including a truly horrifying Vogue 2851, I mean, come on) but I went with the OG, the Vogue 2442 from 1980. In the effort of being as science-y as possible, I re-measured myself and chose the size that closely matched my measurements – in this case, the 8.
It took me a while to find a suitable denim to make these up – I wanted something non-stretch (as the pattern calls for – this was before stretch denim was really a thing!), but not too heavy, and a lighter wash. A bunch of the stuff I was coming up with ended up being way too lightweight, or had too much stretch, so this project ended up being shelved for longer than I would have liked.
As you can see, I did end up finding a great denim – from Art Gallery Fabrics, of all places! I’ll admit that Art Gallery Fabrics wouldn’t be my first thought when it comes to denim, but they’ve been expanding their denim gallery and I was curious to see what the offerings entailed. There is a great selection of lightweight (4.5oz, like what you’d use to make a button-down top or a sundress) denims, both printed and dyed various colors. The heavier denims clock in at 10oz (which is the lighter end of a pants-weight denim, and my personal preference), and come in a smaller selection of colors, nonstretch only.
After playing with some swatches, I chose the Crosshatch Textured Denim, in the Bubbling Brook colorway. My other choice was the Solid Textured Denim in Bluebottle Field, but that was sold out, so hopefully I can try it out in the future!
Anyway, about the Crosshatch Textured Denim! First off, you probably noticed that my jeans don’t exactly have a crosshatched design on them – that’s because you are looking at the wrong side of the fabric, baby! I actually don’t mind the crosshatch look, but upon receiving the fabric I fell in LURVE with the less contrasty wrong side of the fabric, so that’s what I went with on my jeans! My sewing project, my rules! The denim was pretty stiff and definitely not soft upon first receiving; but did get really soft and supple after just one wash. Be warned that it frays a lot, though – you’ll want to make sure you finish your seams (whether serging, or zigzaging, or even binding them) because otherwise the inside of your garment will get real hairy, real fast. If that bothers you, I mean. You do you.
Other than the fraying part, this denim was easy to work with. I recently got an Oliso Steam Iron (yes, the little iron that stands up when you stop touching it and yes it never ever stops being hilarious, no matter how much I use it) and this was my first real project to use it on. It doesn’t get quite as melt-your-hands-off-hot as my industrial gravity feed iron does (granted, this is cotton, so it doesn’t really need to be beaten into submission haha), but it heats up quickly, delivers a satisfying steam burst, doesn’t auto shut off every 2 minutes, oh, and IT STANDS ON IT’S OWN LITTLE FEET. My only regret in life is that I can’t find my stick-on googly eyes, because this iron needs eyeballs. Ok moving on.
So, more about the pattern itself! Like I said, I went with the size 8, which was based on my current measurements. I did not make any prior fitting adjustments or a muslin before cutting my fabric – I just went for it! I wanted to see what would happen! (this might be my new motto for 2020). Fit-wise, this was almost perfect right out of the envelope. I did end up making a few minor tweaks before I attached the waistband – because I am extra, and I like fiddling with things! – but if I hadn’t done anything at all these still would have absolutely been wearable.
Adjustments I made:
– Removed 1/2″ from the inner thighs, keeping the crotch length intact
– Scooped 1/8″ from the front crotch curve
– 5/8″ wedge at the center back yoke + waistband
– Cut 5″ total off the hem (I have a 28″ inseam, y’all lmao)
Sorry I didn’t take before photos, but these were all minor tweaks that didn’t translate very well in a photograph. Also, when I’m fitting, I don’t want to stop to take a bunch of weird ass selfies. Sorry, not sorry! Looking at these photos, I see I could have removed a little more from the inner thighs (as evidenced by the horizontal wrinkles pointing directly at my butt), but I can assure you this is a big improvement from the start, and I actually think they look worse in the photos than in real life! But, you know, it’s good enough. I spent far too much of my past sewing days overfitting myself to the point of frustration (and sometimes, actual discomfort). Nowadays, when I feel like I’m done fiddling with it, I just stop. As long as it’s not actually uncomfortable, I think it’s good enough! It has been very liberating and I encourage y’all to consider the same outlook 🙂
The instructions on this pattern certainly were interesting! As someone who’s made loads and loads (and loads) of jeans, these were a little more based on the home-sewer, rather than how RTW jeans are made (granted, I don’t have access to vintage jeans at this time, but the 1980s isn’t exactly the same type of vintage as, say, the 40s, and generally the construction methods back then were more similar to how they are now, i.e., serging seam allowances and such). As this is an older pattern, it wasn’t common for the average home sewist to have a serger – so the instructions include turning under edges, or finishing seams with a zigzag or overcast stitch. Interestingly, there is NO interfacing called for in this pattern (I interfaced the fly facing + outer waistband, out of habit and because I know that gets the me the result I like), but they do have you add twill tape to the top and bottom edges of the curved waistband to keep it from stretching out (that was a no from me, dawg). The other weird thing I noticed was that they have you double topstitch the side seams, and not the inseam. I also skipped that part (I prefer a stronger inseam, thnx) and did it my own way. However, I did follow the instructions for the most part.
The pattern includes a back pocket topstitching design, front pocket stays (pocket lining is also from Art Gallery Fabrics, fyi!), and a two-piece curved waistband. The pants are fitted at the waist, hips and thighs, and then the leg goes straight down (which is not what the line drawing suggests; they look a little more tapered on the envelope). Since my denim is such a light color, I opted for a pale brown topstitching thread (my beloved Gutterman Mara 70), rather than gold or copper. I alter a lot of jeans for clients and one thing I’ve noticed is that most jeans use brown thread, not gold or copper! My rivets and buttons are from the Garment District (I think these rivets might actually be for bags, but whatever, I like them); I had 1 extra rivet so I attached it to one corner of the back pocket. I saw this on a pair of jeans the stylist I work with was wearing, and while I normally hate rivets on back pockets, I thought it was kinda cute.
My only issue with this pattern is the two-piece curved waistband. Since it’s in two pieces, that means there a seam at the center back – great for fitting, but it also means a lot of bulk at the center back when the inner and outer waistband are sewn together (and then later, a belt loop is sewn on top of that). I also admit that I was running on fumes by the time the waistband facing was attached, so it’s not my best work. But, it’s on the inside, so who cares!
Overall, I enjoyed making this pattern and I think the finished jeans turned out great! I love the high waist (better for wearing crop tops with!), and the straight legs are a big style departure from my usual look. I love the lighter wash and subtle texture of the AGF denim, and I love love LOVE how soft it is! I don’t feel like I even really need to break these in, which is wonderful! If you’ve been looking for a good non-stretch, not-too-heavy denim, definitely check out what Art Gallery Fabrics has to offer!
** This post was sponsored by Oliso. All fabrics were provided by Art Gallery Fabrics. As always – all thoughts, opinions, and weird ideas are my own! **
LLADYBIRD 
I absolutely love these – the style, the fabric, the fit! Since I hate breaking in denim, I may have to get some of this fabric. It looks like I could make a pair of comfortable jeans with this. Bravo on your first make of 2020.
Yeah, breaking in denim is the pits! It’s worth it in the end, but sometimes painful to get to that point. This denim didn’t require any breaking in – after the first wash, it was already so soft and pliable! Definitely give it a go, I think you’ll love it 🙂
Nowadays, when I feel like I’m done fiddling with it, I just stop. As long as it’s not actually uncomfortable, I think it’s good enough! It has been very liberating and I encourage y’all to consider the same outlook 🙂
Thanks for this!
❤ !
BTW the jeans look good on you but I prefer slightly narrower leg and even though my legs are short, I like to wear a 29″ inseam because I would rather have them a little longish than shorter. I have not ever tried to made jeans, way too much work.
Yeah I generally prefer a narrower leg but I do like this change of style for me! And I always wear my pants cropped – I wanted to crop these more, but I’m going to wear them a bit first before I make the cut. Don’t write off trying jeans, it is definitely a time investment but it’s SO fun! One of my favorite things to sew!
Those are beautiful jeans! I did think that pattern envelope looked really strange – why get the model to do something so unnatural. Also, interesting how you used the denim – it looks really great using the reverse side.
Thank you! Yeah the pattern art is ridiculous haha
You do know that is a very young Brooke Shields in the top photo, right? I had the first edition of this pattern when it came out and made them up in an all-new jeans class. People were very impressed that I had sewn my own jeans. I should have kept the pattern, I had the other loose-fitting one as well. We’re talking early 70’s.
Of course I know that is Brooke Shields! That’s why I chose it – it’s iconic (albeit a bit creepy as well, considering how young she is). I didn’t know they released a CK pattern before 1980 – I’ve never seen one (and all the BS patterns I’m finding are from the 80s). Very interesting!
No you’re right, she was 15 in 1980 when that pattern was released. I have lost a decade in my life!
Well damn! you got me excited about a potential other CK jeans pattern that might be floating around lol
I made these jeans 35+yrs., one child & 30lbs less, I have saved them, just because.
I love that!
I love vintage patterns and the detail you include in your pieces both inside (pockets & seaming) and out is beautiful. You’ve given this pattern a new life in 2020!
Thank you so much!
These turned out great, love the soft, no breaking in part. You said you took 1/2″ off the inner thigh – was that width or length? Trying to understand that in relation to the lined pointing to butt.
I remember this pattern from way back when, never sewed it up tho. Yours look easy to wear.
1/2″ from the width. Technically it’s a “thin thigh” adjustment (which is hysterical to me because no one has EVER referred to my thighs at thin -but they are thinner than what the pattern was drafted for my size, I guess!).
These look awesome.
Thank you!
Good Morning! Jeans look great! That photo of the 12 year old Brooke shields brings back memories! I remember there was a real scandal because she was so young (just a baby!) and it was so „explicit“! And she had revealed that she hadn’t been wearing any underwear during shooting because it felt so „natural“… Do you remember the campaign slogan? Nothing comes between me and my Calvins…Hah! How times have changed…I remember I had a crush on a boy Peter in the fifth grade…(I ended up marrying another Peter!) who told me a joke…“Nothing comes between me and my Calvins…except caca“. Well I found That shocking!
Heavy sigh. How times have changed… keep up the brilliant work Lauren! Love your work! Best, giuls, Berlin Germany
>
Oh man, all those CK commercials have always been straight-up creepy but I think the Brooke Shields one was definitely the worst! Times have certainly changed for sure!
I think the heroin-chic early 90’s ads with young teens (and those Abercrombie & Fitch ad campaigns) were actually worse than the 80’s (which while seeming kind of creepy now, were actually kind of naive/innocent-daring).
Ahhhhhhh…………. Calvins………
I actually have my original 1980 RTW Calvins! SWEET memories. And they still fit! (Not bragging. Haha. The lumpy bits are above the waist! 😱)
But (alas) the button popped off and I’m afraid to frack them up repairing them. How would you suggest I reinforce the area and replace the “button”? (It’s a “clean” hole.)
Super fun post. Especially for those of us who care to walk down Memory Lane…
OMG that’s so awesome! You definitely need to wear them, that is brag-worthy for sure!
It’s easy to replace the button! I like to fuse a little piece of interfacing to the inside to close the hole, and then sew a small patch (matching denim, also interfaced if you feel so inclined) over that. Then you just hammer a new button in. It might show stitching on the outside if you don’t perfectly match the thread color (some people prefer to “darn” the area instead by sewing over and over it but I personally think it’s a little stronger with additional fabric reinforcement, and I skip the darning part), but few repairs are invisible and I figure a visible repair is better than not being able to wear the garment at all!
Thank you Lauren!
Your originals? And they still fit? RESPECT!
Alice Harvey, thank you! (But you’ve not looked in my mirror! Haha…)
Lol. I can relate. But maybe a boxy top, wear them shopping. No lunch. 🙂
Yeah, I have a pair of jeans hanging up for inspiration from 15 years ago that I’d love to get back into. Not lookin’ good.
You are amazing! Your sewing skills are over the top!
Thank you!
In general, I totally dislike lycra in my pants/jeans and am always on the hunt for denim that is in that sweet spot of not too heavy but structured enough and without lycra. Will have to give this a try as I’ve loved my other AG fabrics!
I love the cut on these and the length is perfect!
Oh, I loooooove lycra in my pants but I get the non-lycra love! Definitely give this denim a try – it’s super good! And thank you!
Loved this post!
I’d like to take one of your jean’s classes using this pattern (I don’t wear skinny jeans). Any chance you’ll be doing a class on mom jeans in Nashville or somewhere close to South Carolina?
If I want to try these Jean’s without a class, could I use a stretch denim?
Thank you,
Betty Finn
I’ve had this question come up a lot, and unfortunately, to take the class you do need to make the same pattern that the rest of the class uses (I’ve tried to accomodate in the past and it just ends up being very confusing and slow-moving, especially for patterns that have a different fly construction, etc.). The good news is, you can then use those skills and knowledge to make whatever pattern you want after class! (because, Imma be real with you – the very first pair you make will definitely not be your nicest work. We simply don’t have time to be perfectionists in that class!).
The only classes I offer are for the Ginger jeans (or Cashmerette Ames if you are plus sized – they have the same construction). My only 2020 date in the general South/East is Nashville, which is currently sold out. You can see if the entire 2020 schedule here on my website.
I’ve never tried this pattern in a stretch denim, but I’m sure it would work if you sized down. FYI the Ginger pattern (that we use in my class) offers a straight leg version as well as the skinny leg, which you could combine the two to get a similar look to this pattern without needing to adjust a non stretch pattern to work with stretch denim. A lot of my students do this in class and it looks great 🙂
Hahaha, this post makes me laugh out loud! And I could get interested in these jeans! They look comfortable to me. Thanks!😊
Yay!
There was nothing, NOTHING, that 13 year old me wanted more in 1980 than a pair of Calvin Klein jeans. But alas, they did not make them for “chubby” girls back then. These look fantastic!!! I can’t get over how good the back side of the fabric looks – I admit the “right” side isn’t my favorite, but would I have stopped to check out the reverse? I will now. Great great project – thanks for sharing.
Oh yea, the reverse is always worth checking out! Sometimes it’s better than the intended right side (which, I think – as a sewist, the right side is whatever side you want it to be!).
I actually still have this pattern in my stash – never have sewn it though. I made several pairs of capri pants last year perfecting the fit on a different pattern – may need to pull this out and see what I can come up with. What weight of denim do you usually recommend for jeans – 12 oz?
I prefer a lighter weight, personally. These are 10oz.
Love how you used the reverse side of the denim! I have this pattern in my stash too. I have sewn the skirt a number of times but never the jeans. Maybe 2020 will be the year to make jeans. Thanks for the inspiration.
Yes! Make you some CK jeans to go with your CK skirt 😀
Hello!
Your jeans are, of course, superbly crafted – no issues there, but these jeans are not flattering to you in the least- looking both too tight and too short. I realize you are NOT a 6 ft model, but nonetheless they make you appear much shorter than your actual stature.
Just my two cents, which are surely not even worth that in the long run.
happy sewing!
While I appreciate you having an opinion, there was probably a more tactful way that you could have phrased yours (or not shared it at all).
Also for the record – I’m 5’2″, EVERYTHING makes me look short. I don’t care about looking taller and would honestly rather emphasize my lack of height. Again, opinions.
Oh Hell No! Lladybird has a lovely figure and these jeans fit her like a glove. Form fitting, but don’t actually look too tight, she seems to have no problem moving in them. But no yoga of course. As for height, not everyone needs to look tall and wllowy, nor dress baggy and dumpy. It’s ok to be who you are. Please, before posting, think about what your point is in making rude comments, hopefully you didn’t mean it that way.
I make jeans all the time. I have this pattern and like some of the details from it I used a style arc pull on jeans and regular jeans pattern for better fit. The calvin pattern is too high waisted and the leg width is too wide to be modern looking. The sytle arc pattern fit bill for fit and calvin jeans pockets, front and back and pocket design provided the details for a great fitting mid rise trim stylist looking jeans. Heavier weight stretch denim provides the comfort factor.
Hi. I too love taking bits from different patterns to get just the fit and style that suits me. It’s really interesting to me to see the 70’s influence now. Wider legs, ok, but not near as much fun, to me, as bell bottoms were back in the day. And shorter pants, (not talking about capris), were known as “flood pants. Haha. I graduated HS back in ’70 and loved most of the 70’s vibe, not those huge shirt collars though.
It is so refreshing to see today’s sewist sewing their own style, whatever that is, and looking pretty groovy while doing so. Wonderfully freeing, best fashion show ever.
“Weird ass selfies” – is that weird-ass selfies or weird ass-selfies?
I always love reading your stuff. Very fun jeans, great choice on the denim. I hope the mood strikes you to do another Vogue patterns post again sometime.
Excellent report! I love the resulting jeans. I made these in heavy denim in the 80s. I just couldn’t afford brand name jeans. I wasn’t very cluey about fit but they did fit and the instructions were good. I laughed reading about the thicknesses where the centre seam required the belt loop sewn over too. THAT brought me back to making compromises at my sewing machine in my mothers house as a 20 year old. My jeans lasted YEARS if frequent wear and were immensely comfy. Might haul the pattern out and adjust it up a few sizes to try again.