Completed: Red Linen Lander Pants

20 Apr

Well, y’all, it’s official – I’ve given up on sewing any more cold weather clothes for this season (although I still have a coat project that I haven’t shared – yet!! Keep an eye out for that one; I promise it’s worth the wait!!). It may still be spring here with some seriously flip-flopping temperatures, but I’m planning for the heat that I now is coming!

Red Linen Lander Pants

First up, some new pants! Yah, I have ENOUGH pants, we are all aware of that – seriously, my pants drawer is a bit much! – but most of what I have are jeans and skinny pants, better suited for cooler weather. When it’s warm outside, I need some space between my legs and my pants so that I can catch that breeze! I have a great pair of linen Florence pants from Elizabeth Suzann, which I love but could use some improvements to better match my needs (pockets + a flat non-elastic waist, plus a sliiiiightly lighter weight linen). I do love the shape of those Florence pants, though – the wide leg is perfect for a warm-but-not-quite-warm-enough-for-shorts day, the cropped length looks great with both flats and heels, and the high waist means I can wear them with cropped shirts.

With these changes in mind, I find the Lander pants from True Bias fits all those needs. I still have the high waist, cropped length, and wide leg, but with a slimmer fit through the thigh, a flat waistband (no elastic!) and pockets. I’m not the sort of person who thinks pockets should be in EVERYTHING, but I do like them in my pants! And while I respect that a slim pant can’t always have a pocket without adding additional bulk, this pattern does a fine job of giving me a place to stash my stuff without ruining the sleek style lines.

Red Linen Lander Pants

Pattern in hand, the next task was to find a good linen that fit my needs and preferences. I wanted something with a lighter medium weight – not as heavy as the Florence pants (they can get a bit warm when humidity rises), but with enough heft to still look ok as a bottom weight and not be as prone to wrinkles as a light weight. Not to mention, color is important! My Florences are navy, so I wanted to try for a different color (as much as I love navy, I don’t need two pairs of navy linen pants!). I reached out to my friends at The Confident Stitch for some ideas and swatches, and y’all, did they deliver! I decided to go with the Vivaldi Linen in red, which was exactly the weight + color I was hoping for (Vivaldi linen also comes in other colors – royal blue and taupe – if red ain’t your thing! They also have a great Brussels Washer Linen from Robert Kaufman that I considered, but ultimate decided it was a hair too light for the pants look I was going for).

I washed + dried my linen 3 times to get as much shrinkage out before cutting (I have been told this also helps with preventing wrinkles, which I can’t say for sure if that’s true, but this linen hasn’t been very prone to wrinkling!), using hot water and high heat. While the color did not bleed, it did turn my dryer lint bright red which sometimes got on my clothes (I just brushed it off, it didn’t stain anything. But it did make for a delightful dryer discovery). This Vivaldi linen was absolutely lovely to work with – it pressed and sewed without any trouble, had minimal fraying (I used my serger to finish all seams to further cut down on fray potential) and I didn’t have any issues with it shifting around during cutting. Just a great experience overall!

Red Linen Lander Pants

Red Linen Lander Pants

Before sewing up my pants, I made a muslin of the shorts version to see if I had any fitting adjustments to make. Based on my measurements, I started with a size 2 but they were pretty tight. Letting out the side seams about 1/2″ (the pattern includes 1″ seam allowance at the side seams for fitting) gave me a much better fit. I also took out about 1/4″ in the length of the crotch, fading to nothing at the side seams.

For the pair in red linen, I went up to a size 4. The overall width of the legs and length of the crotch is good, however, the center back needed to be taken in quite a bit to account for my hip to waist ratio (I think this pattern is cut for a more straight figure). This is an EASY adjustment to make; you just try on the pants before you add the waistband and take in the center back as needed for a closer fit. I took out an extra 3/4″, but honestly could have stood to remove more (I didn’t want to risk making them too tight at the waist – which I am guilty of doing, like, often, so I’m wearing them with a belt to cinch them in a little more). I almost removed another 1/4″ from the side seams, because my linen has more give than the muslin.

I cut the pockets for the size 4, but I think they are too big for my frame, especially after taking in that center back. There are two back pocket sizes for this pattern – a small pocket (sizes 0 & 2) and a slightly larger size (4 and up). In retrospect, I should have cut the smaller sizes, which I will do for the next pair. I just think they are slightly too big and a little overwhelming on me.

Finally, the length is the exact length called for in the pattern for the cropped version. I am a hair under 5’3″ so I wasn’t sure if they would be too long on me. I actually think they could stand to be shortened maybe 1″, but several people told me they are the perfect length (to me, they look almost like they accidentally shrank in the wash!). I am not going to mess with this pair, but next pair I may shorten them just a bit.

Red Linen Lander Pants

Construction-wise, this pattern is great. I’ve made DOZENS of pants at this point, so I’m not exactly a n00b to this, though. I had no problem following along for the steps, including the button fly. One thing I would change for the next pair is to interface the fly shield because it can definitely use that support, especially when sewn up with a linen.

Lander pants in red linen

Lander pants in red linen

Lander pants in red linen

What else? I used bemberg rayon (a scrap in my stash) to line the front pockets, and the buttons are from my local fabric store, Textile Fabrics. Took me foreeeeever to find a perfect matching red but I’m so glad I did! As a side note, these flat photos were taken after wearing the pants around for a full day, so you can see exactly how much the linen wrinkles (i.e., not much at all!).

Red Linen Lander Pants

So I think that’s all for this post + project! I’ve already worn these pants several times (as the weather allows) and have really loved that they provide a little warmth and coverage while still being light and breathable when the sun starts getting crazy. The high waist works great with a lot of my crop tops, which I’m excited to bust out!

Big thanks to The Confident Stitch for sponsoring this post and making my red linen pants dreams come true! As a side note, the links used in this post are affiliate links and will net me a percentage of any purchases you make through that site if you click the link (which in turn gets dumped directly back into my FABRIC FUND amirite woohoo). Thank you for supporting my blog, y’all!


32 Responses to “Completed: Red Linen Lander Pants”

  1. morningsprite April 20, 2018 at 10:20 am #

    Hoping it warms up before you get to Alexandria next week! These temps are torture. Also, I am still crazy excited to make some jeans next week!

    • LLADYBIRD April 20, 2018 at 11:03 am #

      Seriously! I need some warm weather so I can bring these pants with me 😛 Excited for jeeeeeans!!!!

  2. Hailey April 20, 2018 at 11:02 am #

    These turned out great! I have a couple of Landers planned out, too. How much yardage did you end up using? I chronically buy too much fabric, and I know you are a master of eking out garments from minimal yardage. Thanks! Also, any updates on west coast workshops???

    • LLADYBIRD April 20, 2018 at 11:05 am #

      I believe I started with 2.7 yards (I didn’t measure it when I received it so I’m just assuming here!) and was able to cut both the pants and a pair of shorts with the remaining yardage.

      I don’t have any west coast updates, it’s all in the shop’s hands now! Will let y’all know as soon as I have something to announce 🙂

  3. katemcivor April 20, 2018 at 11:16 am #

    I love these Landers! I’m glad to see the Vivaldi is holding up well. It’s such a soft linen! Thanks for partnering with me!

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:28 am #

      It’s a great linen! I’m so happy to have my dream linen pants now, thanks to it! ❤

  4. KS_Sews April 20, 2018 at 11:36 am #

    They are very cute. I like that length but could also see them a *tad* shorter.

    We got hit with 15″ of snow this past weekend up here in Minneapolis but I refuse to remain beholden to winter! Bring on spring and summer sewing!!! :-p

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:28 am #

      Oh goodness! I think I would die if we were still getting snow here! I don’t know how y’all up in the north can handle that!

  5. bethnegrey April 20, 2018 at 12:06 pm #

    These are really great pants. I loved everything about them as I read through this post –love the detailed notes, as always 🙂 ), but you really had me at the button fly. My favorite jeans in all the world have always been Levi 501s! Must confess that I haven’t made pants yet, but with this post I think I’ve got enough to give it a first-time go. Thanks!

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:28 am #

      You are welcome! You will love them!!

  6. Ciara April 20, 2018 at 2:34 pm #

    I’ve made this pattern twice now, & I feel like there is something weird about the way the front crotch is drafted. The crotch hook is SO short. My first version was in a twill that relaxed well, so I didn’t really notice a problem, but I made my second pair in a beefy denim & it made the crotch issues really obvious. I’m trying them again (why? I don’t know–I guess I just really want them to work for me), but I added a full 1/2″ to the front crotch hook. Did you notice anything weird there? It probably wouldn’t really be noticeable in linen like this, but even just eyeballing the flat pattern, I had concerns.

    • Lisa Poblenz (patternandbranch) April 21, 2018 at 6:48 am #

      I had trouble with the crotch, too, so count me in on this question. They’re fine when I’m standing, but it I’m sitting for awhile, I feel like they are going to injure me! I tried making the crotch seam deeper, and it helped a little, but I don’t really know what I’m doing.

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:30 am #

      I haven’t noticed anything weird about the crotch (and I’ve never heard the term crotch hook, which is now my new favorite thing so thank you haha), and as a result I’ve been paying WAY more attention to my crotch all weekend while wearing them, but yeah, they are fine on me. Your body must be shaped different than the pattern is drafted, I’d imagine.

    • Leigh April 25, 2018 at 9:41 am #

      This is so interesting. I’ve made the shorts version of the Landers and they’re the least weird at the crotch on me of any pants pattern I’ve sewn. I get a weird puffy crotch or strange pull lines with other patterns. Aren’t crotches funny?

      • LLADYBIRD April 25, 2018 at 9:58 am #

        We’re all shaped differently, which is hard to tell until one is wearing pants that don’t fit right! It sounds like your body is exactly the shape of the block for the Landers 🙂

  7. liz-o-matic April 20, 2018 at 5:14 pm #

    These look GREAT!! I have the pattern in my stash…. I very nearly bought some fabric from Mulberry Silks (which I see from Instagram you made a visit to!), but at the last minute decided to stick with my 6 month ban on buying new fabric. Curse my responsible ways!! 😦

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:31 am #

      I got fabric from Mulberry silks to make another pair of Landers! Which I sewed over the weekend… and I’m wearing now! Ha! Good for you on being responsible and sticking to your ban 😀

  8. Shaneka Giscombe April 20, 2018 at 6:25 pm #

    Those are sexy!! I need to get those made.

  9. Joanne April 21, 2018 at 1:48 am #

    These pants are great! I also got some linen to make a pair of lander pants. My first pair of me-made non stretchy pants in like 10 years I think. Planning on sewing them next month. Thanks for the tip about interfacing the fly.

  10. PsychicSewerKathleen April 21, 2018 at 9:13 am #

    Linen pants are high on my roster for this summer too 🙂 I have one pair (elasticized waist, made in Turkey out of this incredible linen that I bought at the Hemp Shop here in Victoria BC) and have been thinking I want more of these! Surprisingly cool and comfortable I wear them all the time in the summer. Peggy at Silhouette patterns recommends that you add a can of coke to your wash to soften it so I’m going to give that a whirl. I love your Landers!

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:32 am #

      Oh that sounds really interesting, I will have to try that!

  11. Nurse Bennett April 21, 2018 at 10:48 pm #

    I need to sew some loose linen pants. I have a pair of white with elastic waist with drawstring that I really enjoy wearing, but……white! I need some color to hide my boy stains. I was recently in Nashville and thought of you, Lauren. I made. Quick stop by Textile Fabrics before leaving town and now I want to return just to spend a day there browsing. Love your red linen pants!

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2018 at 8:33 am #

      Oh man, I love Textile! I live super close to that shop so it can be a little dangerous 🙂 Hope you enjoyed visiting Nashville!

  12. Max California April 22, 2018 at 8:16 am #

    I really love these! I’ve been watching people sew up the lander pants because I really like the way they look but I’ve read others say that it’s all hype; but I love yours! That red is a perfect red for you too 👌🏼👌🏼

  13. susannegrabowski April 23, 2018 at 9:40 pm #

    I’m intrigued by this repeated hot washing and drying thing you did with your fabric. Do you do this with all linen? Can I stop treating linen like a newborn baby?? I love the idea of reducing wrinkliness, but I’m nervous about fading/drastic shrinkage/other catastrophes—none of which have befallen you, clearly.

    And also I love the Landers! Great color.

    • LLADYBIRD April 25, 2018 at 10:00 am #

      Oh yeah, all linen gets that treatment! You shouldn’t be afraid to be rough with your linen – it’s one of the strongest fibers out there (I saw pieces of linen in Egypt that were thousands of years old that looked almost brand new – and you know they didn’t treat it like a newborn baby!). It’s true you will definitely get some shrinkage if you wash on hot – but don’t you want to get that out of the way before you cut your fabric? And as far as fading, well, that may happen too but I think it’s worth it if it means the fabric doesn’t shrink or wrinkle as much!


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