Completed: Linen Archer Button-Up

11 May

Does anyone remember my first linen Archer shirt, and the disaster that it was? Like, I don’t even think I wore that thing out in public one time. I’m pretty sure it went straight to Goodwill, where a less discerning eye was hopefully excited to find it. Hopefully.

Well, I always said I’d revisit this pattern+fabric combination again, once I’d had a little more practice with it – and here we are! I can’t believe it’s taken me nearly 4 years to actually get around to making that linen button-up of my dreams, but better late than never, I reckon!

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Basic details first: This is the Archer button-up from Grainline Studio. Sewn up in a size 0, with all my former modifications (shortening the hem, shortening the sleeves, and also adding a tower placket to the sleeve instead of the bias placket, which I’m sorry but I just don’t like). I’ve made this shirt several times, so if you want more in-depth info from an earlier version – check out this tag! The only former modification that I did NOT make to this version was to sew the side seams at their 1/2″ seam allowance (all my other versions, I used a 5/8″ seam allowance for this, to make the the body a smidge narrower. But for this one, I kept it as-drafted).

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Ok, boring shit out of the way – what makes this one so special is the fabric I used! Omg you guys. It’s hard to convey in a photo – even harder with these less than sub-par ones I have going on (and yah, I’ve already started packing for my move at the end of the month. Backgrounds are about to get a lot sadder ’round here haha) – but this particular linen is one of the prettiest solids I’ve ever seen! It looks like a basic chambray from a distance, but once you get closer – it’s really more of a periwinkle blue, with a definite purple sheen to it. I am not a huge fan of purple – and honestly, wasn’t a huge fan of linen until recently (something about getting old idk but god bless I feel like I sweat more than ever now, which is disgusting I know) – but this one is pretty freaking special.

I got my magical linen from South Street Linen, waaay back in 2015 when I was in Portland, ME for my first retreat at A Gathering of Stitches. We took an impromptu class field trip to the shop after we’d been told there was a linen sample sale going on… and DUDES WHAT A SAMPLE SALE. So many amazing pieces of absolutely beautiful linen, priced according to their yardage. You couldn’t get the pieces cut, but it was easily enough to split with someone else (we’re talking bundles of 6-10 yards per piece, so some people split 3 ways and still had tons). I personally got 2 pieces myself – both shared splits – and this is one of them. It’s been so long that I don’t actually remember what I paid, but I’d guess probably $30-$40 for 3 yards. Maybe less, again, I don’t remember!

Again, these pictures do not do this fabric justice – but it is even more beautiful in person. It’s also incredibly soft – not rough at all like some linens can be. It’s a slightly heavier weight, too, which means it’s more opaque and a bit less prone to wrinkling and fraying. I’ve been sitting on this piece of fabric for a very long time, waiting for inspiration to strike, and I’m glad I waited! I like the idea of having a summery button-up shirt (I’m not opposed to wearing my flannels in the summer, but this just looks better, yeah?) that is made of a nice breathable linen, with long sleeves that can protect my skin from the sun and/or insects (seriously, Morgan had one of these in Peru and I was SO JEALOUS of it!)…. or more specifically, air-conditioning, ha!

Construction-wise, this was waaaaay easier than my first linen attempt. I suspect part of that has to do with my now experience sewing this type of pattern- and part because of the fabric itself. Being a heavier linen means it is less shifty and less prone to fraying, which made the entire experience a BREEZE to navigate.

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

An unexpected perk of this style is how good it looks when it’s unbuttoned to be borderline scandalous. Since I’m not rocking much in the boob department these days, I can totally get away with these things hahahaha.

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

A few more minor construction notes: the shirt is finished with flat-felled seams, for a neat and durable finish. I did add a tower placket to the sleeve, as mentioned, so it would be easier to roll up (I use the placket pattern piece from the Colette Negroni pattern, but there are other options available). I also added button tabs (nabbed from my copy of B5526) to further aid with rolling up the sleeves (sorry, I didn’t think to take a photo of them rolled up – but you can see a shot here on my Instagram). The topstitching is off-white, and the buttons are just standard off-white shirt buttons, nothing fancy.

Linen Archer Button-Up Shirt

I guess that’s all for this make! I have already worn it several times since finishing (hence the wear-wrinkles in my “modeling” photos – but as you can see, it doesn’t wrinkle that much! And there are pressed fresh-off-the-sewing-machine shots on my dressform, if you’re a hater of wrinkles!) and it’s been a nice and cool alternative to my standard cardigan. I like that the purple makes it a little less plain than an ordinary chambray, yet it’s still a really versatile color that can be worn with most of my wardrobe.

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33 Responses to “Completed: Linen Archer Button-Up”

  1. Deborah Penner May 11, 2017 at 10:29 am #

    Love this color!

  2. Anonymous May 11, 2017 at 11:00 am #

    Looks beautiful! I have a question about the sleeve placket. When you added the tower placket, did you have to make any adjustments to the sleeve or the pleats? Thanks!

    • LLADYBIRD May 11, 2017 at 11:03 am #

      Nope! The only change is that the slash line ends up being longer, but you don’t even have to transfer that – just cut along the slash line that’s on the tower placket.

      • Anonymous May 12, 2017 at 9:47 am #

        thanks so much for your response!

  3. bethnegrey May 11, 2017 at 11:20 am #

    This is absolutely beautiful, Lauren! Well worth the four years’ gestation (sometimes things just need a little mama-hen type brooding on them to hatch them out 🙂 ). The color is sublime and the sleeves are amazing! Fabulous work!

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:26 pm #

      Thank you so much! I agree – most of the time, the gestation is worth it 🙂

  4. Jackie May 11, 2017 at 11:42 am #

    Very nice!! Wish I had one too!

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:26 pm #

      You can make one! I can’t promise you’ll get the same fabulous linen, though 😉

  5. Tomasa May 11, 2017 at 3:03 pm #

    Beautiful shirt – love the linen. The pictures do convey what a fabulous fabric it is!

  6. ellegeemakes May 11, 2017 at 3:12 pm #

    I am such a fan of linen and your pretty shirt makes me want to go fabric shopping for more (which i need like a hole in the head). I forgot how great it is to have a long sleeve/roll up linen shirt with you when you travel…Thanks for the reminder. just going to have to make one right now for my upcoming trip!

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:27 pm #

      Awesome! Glad I can inspire (having stolen my inspiration from someone else… heh heh heh… you know how that goes!:))

  7. Yvonne May 11, 2017 at 8:50 pm #

    Beautiful shirt from beautiful fabric. After silk, linen is my favorite. Your stitching is excellent!

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:27 pm #

      Thank you so much! I agree with you on silk! I have never been a huge fan of linen, but I am coming round to it!

  8. Melanie - The Flying Needle May 12, 2017 at 1:49 am #

    Okay, I’ll admit, I don’t like linen too much. But your Archer is so cool, I’m starting to sway a little on my linen opinion ;-)!

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:28 pm #

      I totally understand, cos I have always felt the same way. The wrinkling in particular drives me NUTTY!! But it’s true that a heavier linen doesn’t wrinkle as much (and still retains the light/breathable qualities that make everyone else love linen). I hope you find a linen someday that changes your mind, too 🙂

  9. Ivonne May 12, 2017 at 4:04 am #

    Wow, what a great shirt! The fit is just perfect and the linen must be so comfy ❤

  10. PsychicSewerKathleen May 12, 2017 at 9:26 am #

    I keenly read how you made this shirt since I have linen AND a shirt pattern on my cutting table ready to go. I’ve had a fantasy of a light, drapey linen shirt that actually FITS for years (much longer than I’ve been sewing) – just like yours as a matter of fact 🙂 your linen looks a little like a light denim (which is perfect! – the look of denim with the coolness and drape of linen – what could be better?) My linen is a remnant piece that will only likely only squeeze out a body and upper sleeve. I’m making the collar, button placket and lower bell (instead of plackets I have fallen victim to bell sleeve love) out of another remnant piece of dupioni with pearls embedded in a diamond shape (probably left over from wedding season since it’s beige). For a remnant the size of a dish rag 🙂 it was ridiculously $…but why not? It will take me a while since I’ll have to remove those pearls that are along seam lines…I know sort of fancy but I just thought it would be fun. What we sewists do for fun eh?

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:30 pm #

      It DOES look like a denim.. the only downside, I feel silly wearing it with jeans! Well, right now. I’m sure I won’t care once the heat of summer is on, ha 🙂 And that does sound like fun to me – I love fiddly, nitpicky projects like that that force me to slow down and really enjoy the experience of making it 🙂 Trying to get back into that as much as I can these days 🙂

  11. Sarah May 12, 2017 at 10:59 am #

    Love this! I am going to investigate making my own version in linen. I typically avoid this fabric because of how easily it wrinkles, but yourather version is so beautiful.

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:30 pm #

      I understand! Look for a heavier linen, those don’t tend to wrinkle as much (and are also much easier to cut and sew) than the lighter weight ones 🙂

  12. Margo May 12, 2017 at 11:27 am #

    Wow! Love it Lauren. I haven’t seen great linens lately…just kinda scratchy ones. Glad to know there are some nice ones out there. I found a linen rayon blend but I thought it may be too heavy for the light summer shirt I want.

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:31 pm #

      Ooh linen/rayon sounds AMAZING, though!

  13. attieanddora May 12, 2017 at 12:05 pm #

    It looks great! I love that colour, gorgeous.

  14. fabricplusthread May 12, 2017 at 7:16 pm #

    A beautiful Archer! Gorgeous linen, proving that fabric hoarding is a worthwhile practice 🙂 I’ve had this pattern for ages now but have still not made it. I do have some flannelette earmarked for one though. I just need to make it through the rest of my to do list…

    • LLADYBIRD May 14, 2017 at 8:31 pm #

      It’s a fun pattern! I always enjoy making it 😀

  15. Kayse May 13, 2017 at 10:14 am #

    Awwwww it is super great! I absolutely love it.

  16. fionaparker17 May 19, 2017 at 1:07 am #

    That looks like a stunning linen Lauren! Perfect for this lovely kind of slouchy shirt. It looks great on you

  17. hannahstitch May 22, 2017 at 12:14 pm #

    the fabric is superb. the linen is always comfortable. This color is my fav as i think it look goods in formals. It looks so so super good on you.

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