Completed: The Kelly Anorak

14 Feb

Hey guys! Thank you for all your great comments, suggestions, and feedback on my last post! I’m so happy to hear that y’all enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it πŸ™‚ With that being said, my stint as a ~travel blogger~ is now officially over (well, until I save up money for my next trip – the verdict is still out on where exactly!) – back to regular sewing posts!

BUT before we get into the project – some class-related stuff!

  • I’ve got two classes at Workroom Social in March that both still have a couple of spots left, if you’ve been on the fence and are looking for a reason to treat yo’self πŸ˜‰ (it IS Valentine’sDay, after all! ;)) The Jeans Making Intensive is March 2-3, and the always-popular Pants Making Intensive is March 4-5! The jeans class primarily focuses on construction and finishing a pair of jeans (we use the Ginger Jeans pattern – which, btw, I’m wearing in these photos haha), while the pants class has a little more fitting involved and sews a classic pair of trousers. Both are going to be super fun and I am so excited to be back in NYC in a couple of weeks! β™₯
  • Speaking of Workroom Social – Camp Workroom Social is coming back, and I’ll be back as an assistant to Amy of Cloth Habit’s Bra Making class! Registration is currently open only to alumni, but will be open to the public soon. I cannot WAIT for another round at camp – last year was freaking amazing (and so, so, so beautiful!) and it will be so fun to reconnect with old friends and make new ones!
  • Finally, speaking of Amy and bras -she’s coming to Nashville to teach a bra making workshop at Craft South! Having worked with her at camp last year, I knew we had to have her at the shop for a workshop – she’s a fantastic teacher and so knowledgeable about bra fit! Amy will be in Nashville September 22-23 to teach her Bra Making Weekend Workshop at Craft South. The class will make Amy’s newest pattern, Harriet, as well as learn basic fitting and finishing methods. Oh, and I’ll be assisting the class πŸ™‚ I know a lot of people have been asking when we’d do a bra workshop in Nashville – so there ya go! You can sign up for the workshop here. It’s gonna be amazing!

Ok, back to sewing!

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Today’s project is actually last month’s project that I am just now getting around to posting – the Kelly Anorak from Closet Case Patterns!

While I am not typically a fan of “vacation preparation sewing” – mainly in the sense that I get really stressed with those sorts of deadlines and thus sewing doesn’t even up being very fun – I did make this jacket specifically for my trip to Egypt. I thought it would be a useful thing to bring with me – a nice light layer to ward off the morning chill in the desert, yet breathable for when the sun got all crazy in the afternoon. I also liked that it had those big, roomy pockets and was long enough to cover my butt. My orange Minoru fills most of these slots, but I’ve worn it to death over the years and it’s starting to look ratty – plus, that poly lining isn’t exactly the most breathable thing. Also, I just really love sewing jackets. Sue me πŸ˜›

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

As I said, the Kelly Anorak is a lightweight and unlined jacket – meant to be worn between seasons, not necessarily your crazy winter coat. I’ve seen some people make it out of waterproof fabric, but in my experience I usually carry an umbrella when it rains anyway (and I also own an actual rain jacket – although I still prefer the umbrella, as I don’t like getting my shoes and pants wet!), so this is good enough for a super light drizzle. The pattern features a zippered front with a snap closure placket, a 3 piece hood (which stays on your head much better than the 2 piece kind – it also doesn’t flatten one’s hair as much), big ol’ gusseted pockets, a drawstring waist, and a sleeve placket so you can roll up the sleeves. I actually saw something real similar in JCrew while I was out holiday shopping one afternoon, so I got the added bonus of being able to try the thing on before making it!

The fabric I used for this jacket is an old favorite that’s shown up in tons of my past makes – solid organic cotton twill from Mood Fabrics. The color I used specifically is Olive, and yes, I realize the color on their website photo is way off and no, I don’t know why that is. If you are picky about color, you will definitely want to order a swatch of this stuff. Anyway, I love this fabric because it is easy to work with, has a nice brilliant color, washes/wears well, and is reasonably priced (at least in my opinion!). And it comes in so many colors! Mood pretty much always carries this fabric, FYI, so even if it’s sold out on the website – either hang tight and wait for it to get restocked (I promise it will) or just call the store and have it shipped from there.

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Most of the little hardware bits and pieces were picked up in the NYC Garment District when I was there in November. I knew I was going to be nitpicky about everything matching just so, so I wanted to check out the goods in person. The drawstring, grommets, cord stoppers, metal tassel ends, and zipper are all from Pacific Trimming (I knowww there are other places in the GD to buy this stuff – and maybe even for cheaper – but I just love Pacific Trimming, esp their zipper room!). The zipper is actually a Riri zipper, cos I wanted that shit to be extra fancy. I think I paid around $20 for just the zipper – so it’s not necessarily cheap at all – but it’s really nice, both in terms of how it looks and how smooth it zips! It was also nice to have it cut to the correct size, and also be able to choose both the finish of the metal teeth and the color of the zipper tape, cos again, I was feeling nitpicky about that shit! πŸ™‚ I knew this jacket was going to be a time commitment to make, and for that reason, I’m ok with spending extra money on nicer materials.

The only notion that I did not buy in NYC was the snaps – I just went to Elizabeth Suzann‘s studio during their lunch break and used their industrial snap setter, ha! That thing is really cool and I kiiind of wish I had one, but honestly I am always looking for an excuse to drop by and chat with my old coworkers so for that reason, I’ll continue mooching off theirs!

Since the jacket is unlined (and, for me, primarily worn wide open), I took extra care to finish all the seams for a neat interior. Most every seam is flat-felled, with the exception of the arm holes (only because I didn’t feel like futzing with that shit. I just serged them). I used two different threads to assemble the jacket – a polyester thread for the seams, and then a cotton thread for all the topstitching. I would have just sewn the entire thing with the poly thread, but the color I had on hand was off enough to where the topstitching didn’t look right – and the only thread I had in a suitable color was cotton. In my experience, cotton thread simply does not hold up as well as polyester thread, which is basically indestructible. Considering all the work that I put into this jacket, I didn’t want my threads to fail! So I just used cotton for topstitching – and used a triple stitch, partially for added durability and also because it results in a more visible stitch.

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

I will be completely honest with y’all – I didn’t exactly enjoy the process of sewing this jacket. A big part of the reason was because I was under a pretty tight deadline to finish it before my trip (even though I promised myself it was ok to take the Minoru if I didn’t finish, and that everything would be fine – I still rushed!), but I also found some of the directions to be a bit confusing. The Closet Case Patterns blog has some tutorials on the trickier steps, but some of the information actually contradicts itself in online tutorial vs pattern instructions. The zipper placket specifically was really head-scratching to me, and I had to walk away a few times. There’s a discrepancy with the seam allowances written in the pattern instructions vs the blog tutorial, which I found really confusing. I believe the version on the blog is the correct one, though, if I recall correctly! Another thing that really threw me off was that my zipper pull was on the opposite side of the tape, than what you see on the blog. Finally, I was not a fan of how wide the finished facings are – they are really really wide (too wide, in my opinion). I ended up turning them under additionally and sewing another line to make them more narrow. At the width they were as drafted, I felt like they would just end up flapping around with wear and showing my ugly white interfacing. Nope, not doing that.

Anyway, minor complaints – and may also just be personal, because all the reviews I read just gush about how clear the instructions are. So it could just be me!

As far as sizing and fit, I made a size 2 – which is my normal size for this pattern company. I actually did make a muslin, so I could double check the fit, length, and drawstring placement. The length and drawstring were perfect, and the fit was pretty good. The only thing I changed was the shape of the arm hole – it was a little too big, which made the entire jacket move along with my arms when I lifted them. I raised the bottom by about 1/2″, as well as added to the back of the arm hole, and then took a bit (maybe 3/8″) off the front of the arm hole as it was pulling. This is a pretty standard adjustment that I make to most patterns that involve sleeves. I think I just have really weird-shaped and/or small armscyes haha who knows.

One thing I wish I could have found a way to change was to make the snap on the pocket functional. It’s just there for show and to hold the flap in place – the pocket doesn’t actually snap shut. I considered adding the other side of the snap, but it would have shown on the inside of the jacket (and since you need to interface it, would not have made the inside look as nice). One idea is to interface a scrap of the twill and sew it to where the snap gets inserted, so all you see is a square of twill on the inside. I may do that in the future. It’s not a dealbreaker not being able to snap the pockets closed, but it sure would be handy.

At any rate, this jacket was TOTALLY worth the effort – I think the finished result looks pretty damn good! There’s definitely something to be said about using nice materials, as they really elevate the garment into something that looks extra nice. But I am also really happy with the craftsmanship that went into it – I’m glad I took the time to do the flat-felled seams, rip out mistakes and fix them (even though we all know that shit can be agonizing haha), and even deal with making a muslin first. All totally worth it in the end. And while I made this for Egypt and our upcoming spring weather, it’s actually been handy for the majority of January & what we’ve experienced so far in February. I realize everyone is getting pummeled by snow right now, but y’all, it’s been 70 degrees in Tennessee this past week. I am starting to wonder if we are going to skip winter entirely! I had plans to make an actual winter coat this year, but I may put it on hold until the next cold season because I’m not really feeling super motivated with the weather as it is currently!

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

I used twill tape to finish the neckline (as suggested in the pattern instructions). If I’d thought about it while I was buying my supplies, I would have tried to find a tape that matched my olive fabric. Oh well! For the label, I serged around all 4 sides of a scrap of twill, then sewed my label (which is from Dutch Label Shop) on top of that before attaching it to the jacket. The hanging loop is a small piece of leather that I cut to shape and sewed on by hand.

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood Fabrics

Whew! Sorry about that photo dump – I guess while I’ve gotten better at editing down and posting less photos of myself, I can’t say the same about detail shots πŸ˜‰ haha.

I leave you with one last photo of me. Sorry, not sorry:

Kelly Anorak in Organic Cotton Twill from Mood FabricsNote: The fabrics used for this project was provided to me by Mood Fabrics, in exchange for my participation in the Mood Sewing Network.

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54 Responses to “Completed: The Kelly Anorak”

  1. Kerry (Kestrel Makes) February 14, 2017 at 9:33 am #

    Your jacket is fantastic, looks totally flawless. I’ve recently been having a tricky time with some instructions, from a different pattern company, and it’s SO frustrating when you don’t get what they are trying to say. Such a skill to write good instructions.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:45 am #

      Thank you! I agree with you – writing good instructions takes quite a bit of skill, and mad respect to the people who do it for a living.

  2. Anonymous February 14, 2017 at 9:38 am #

    Wowza ! Once again I am blown away by your sewing finesse! You really nailed the anorak!

  3. Kelly February 14, 2017 at 10:04 am #

    Amazing, as usual! This looks so, so well made! The pattern has such a nice shape too.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:48 am #

      Thank you! The shape is really nice, Heather really nailed it with this pattern πŸ™‚

  4. @sewginidesigns February 14, 2017 at 10:32 am #

    The perfect anorak pattern. I love the traditional olive twill fabric and your construction is flawless.

  5. Jane M February 14, 2017 at 11:07 am #

    Love your jacket and really appreciate your review of the instructions in the pattern versus the blog. And I too would be a little frustrated about a non-snapping pocket. Your findings are fabulous and worth the effort.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:50 am #

      Thank you! I didn’t think the non-snapping pocket would bother me, but I may go back and add the other side of the snap. It’s probably not so much an issue if you are using the pocket to hold things that don’t matter if you lose them (like cheap gloves or an old tennis ball), but even my sunglasses I’d want to be a little more secure if they are in the pocket. The downside to the roominess is that stuff does feel like it’s going to fall right out.

  6. heather February 14, 2017 at 11:31 am #

    wow! your skills are really amazing!! looks rtw… awesome! πŸ™‚

  7. JP February 14, 2017 at 11:36 am #

    Amazing job! It looks great! I received this pattern and some forest green cotton twill for Christmas and I finally got around to cutting it out this past weekend, after reading this post I’m now even more excited to get started on my jacket! Isn’t sewing jackets and coats the best?!

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:52 am #

      It totally is! I love love love living in a warmer climate cos I don’t do well with the cold, but the one downside is that I don’t really need to sew a million coats and jackets – but I WANT to! Because it’s seriously fun haha, You are gonna love sewing up this pattern!

  8. Becky February 14, 2017 at 1:05 pm #

    This is a fabulous jacket! I love the color, and your attention to detail really shows. By the way, I love the detail shots, so keep them coming. You should be really proud of this!

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:53 am #

      Thank you! You are right – I love the detail shots too (they are my favorite thing to look at on other blogs), so they will continue! πŸ™‚

  9. Sue @ A Colourful Canvas February 14, 2017 at 1:32 pm #

    Your choice of fabric is just right for the Kelly!

    I’ve been thinking that with my next Kelly make, I might sew a separate pocket flap and then the snaps would functional. I think the construction of the pocket is cool as is {love that the flap is an extension of the pocket itself} but a bit more security would be great.

    I made the tester version and I did have to go slow when making the facings. Read. Re-read. It’s funny. I hunted high and low for a ‘female’ zipper and couldn’t find one anywhere. My zipper pull is on the ‘wrong’ side and so far I haven’t had issues doing my jacket up. I think you’re lucky to have found a proper girl zip…maybe it’s a Canadian thing; only male zippers, hahaha.

    Me too. I shy away from sewing specifically for trips. Too much pressure. Plus, I like the option of leaving behind clothing if my suitcase gets too full. {Which I did on my most recent trip.} That being said, I sewed my Kelly for my Italy holidy keeping in mind that I could fall back on my Minoru if I didn’t finish. Great minds. Great minds.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:56 am #

      Thank you so much!

      I think with the pocket, it’s a matter of either being secure or having the ease to just shove your hands right in at a moment’s notice. I totally get why Heather designed the pockets the way she did – I think most people would rather have the ease of use – but I can’t help but think there must be a way to do the former. I would personally rather have the security of a snap. Oh well, I think it’s a pretty easy fix!

      I didn’t even realize that zippers had different zip sides until I was sewing mine in! I don’t think I’ve ever had a problem zipping any zipper, regardless of what side the pull is on – it’s in the center after you hook the bottom together, not matter what – but it did make following the instructions a little more confusing.

      I actually bring almost entirely handmade clothes with me when I travel (and if they are not handmade – they are precious and/or expensive enough to have survived multiple closet purges haha) so leaving stuff behind never crosses my mind. I’d rather just bring a second bag for overfill, or pay to ship stuff back. But generally, I just try to underpack with an extra big suitcase πŸ˜‰

  10. Philippa February 14, 2017 at 2:08 pm #

    Saw this jacket on your Egypt photos and thought, wonder if she’s made that it looks awesome! Now I’ve seen the close ups even more impressed.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:57 am #

      Thank you so much! I’m so glad I got it finished in time for the trip, because it was by far the most useful piece of clothing that I brought! πŸ™‚

  11. bethnegrey February 14, 2017 at 2:09 pm #

    This is absolutely gorgeous! Love the color and the zipper — and the hood and the way it fastens in front. Anorak perfection! πŸ™‚

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 9:58 am #

      Thank you! It’s a GREAT pattern!

  12. Naomi February 14, 2017 at 4:31 pm #

    Weren’t you even a little tempted to do a ‘nose pick’ on the (is it Greta Garbo) pic behind?! I just wouldn’t have been able to resist.
    Great make. Super chic.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:08 am #

      It’s actually Marlene Dietrich πŸ™‚ I’ve actually had that piece since I was 18 and it’s never crossed my mind to do a nose pick on her hahahaha

      • Naomi February 15, 2017 at 12:14 pm #

        I always get those two mixed up. So I guess it’s just me then!!! πŸ˜‚

  13. Kristel Quintana February 14, 2017 at 5:40 pm #

    I love it! It looks anything but handmade. I took a look at the pattern on the website and I think your version fits you much better than shown on the models and looks very flattering on you. I’m tempted to make this for myself. I also took a look at your travel post and loved that too. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences – they were inspiring.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:09 am #

      Thank you! I’m glad that you liked the posts πŸ˜€

  14. Nikki R. February 14, 2017 at 10:03 pm #

    Love the jacket – the finish is top drawer “commercial”, while the fit is “no body knows my body like me” personal. Well done. Also glad to hear about the Camp Workroom Social repeat. I was there last year, and you and Amy made a great team.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:16 am #

      Thank you so much! β™₯ We had so much fun with that class, you guys were awesome!!

  15. Heather Myers February 14, 2017 at 10:06 pm #

    Your great make and look prompted me to buy the pattern – it mailed today.:-)

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:18 am #

      Woohoo!! Hope you enjoy it as much as I did πŸ˜€

  16. modaaparentemente February 15, 2017 at 3:52 am #

    Waw! This looks do well made, i’m blown away πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»

  17. Becky Thompson February 15, 2017 at 5:19 am #

    Shut up. You did so buy that at JCrew and just changed out the labels. Whatever. Either that or you’ve got a little JCrew Chinese dude in your sewing room. That thing is Factory. Fabulous!

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:19 am #

      Maybe *I* am the little JCrew dude in the sewing room, did you ever think about that? πŸ˜‰ hahaha

  18. Caroline February 15, 2017 at 8:45 am #

    This jacket looks great! I have purchased the pattern and hardware kit, but likely won’t start until it gets cold again (I’m also in the south).
    I’m also signed up for your jeans class and can’t wait! So excited πŸ˜„

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:20 am #

      I completely understand! It’s hard to get motivated to sew something when you’re drastically out of season. And YAY I can’t wait to meet you at the jean’s class!!! πŸ˜€

  19. Julie no February 15, 2017 at 8:51 am #

    Gorgeous, I love it. I have this pattern and really want to make this at some point. The snaps are scaring me big time. I will have to get over that. A super jacket.

    • LLADYBIRD February 15, 2017 at 10:21 am #

      They’re actually not too bad! You just need to practice on a few to get the hang of it, and even then you can rip them out if you mess them up. I messed up one on the pocket and was able to pull it out and replace it – and I was using an industrial snap press, which those are REAL hard to rip out but believe me when I say it’s doable haha. But I think you’ll be fine!

  20. PsychicSewerKathleen February 15, 2017 at 6:35 pm #

    I love your jacket Lauren – SO NEAT always comes to mind whenever I see anything you’ve made πŸ™‚ The colour and how this Kelly fits is perfect – love the length especially. I didn’t realize the Kelly was an unlined jacket – that makes it even more appealing – I was thinking about some gorgeous Liberty of London denim I have just waiting for the right pattern πŸ™‚

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2017 at 9:11 am #

      Thank you so much! And ooh, this pattern sounds like a fantastic use for that Liberty denim!!!

  21. ellegeemakes February 15, 2017 at 10:47 pm #

    Gorgeous!! Another pattern I have to have and it’s all your fault! Seriously, though it is another impeccable make. You always add the best yummy details and the color is perfect on you! I love it and just might have to copy you!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2017 at 9:11 am #

      Thank you so much! You should totally copy it – jacket twinsies haha πŸ˜€

  22. Jennifer February 16, 2017 at 9:15 am #

    Wow!!! I am impressed. Looks fantastic. When picked out the hardware, did you do it all at once or add as you saw it taking shape? Also, where did you find the hardware? Another question, how did you make your label. Sorry about the “question dump”. (:

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2017 at 11:37 am #

      Hi! All of this info is in the blog post πŸ™‚ I bought all the hardware at once, at Pacific Trimming in NYC, to ensure that it all matched. And the label is embroidered by Dutch Label Company, then sewn onto a square of the twill that was serged around all the edges.

  23. Aubrey (@alwaysaubrey) February 16, 2017 at 11:36 am #

    It’s beautiful! If I saw it on a hanger I’d have guessed it was store-bought because of the hardware details.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2017 at 11:38 am #

      Thank you! Details definitely make a huge difference πŸ™‚

  24. Katie Lynn February 16, 2017 at 4:27 pm #

    I absolutely love this! It might be my favorite of all the things you’ve sewn since I started following your blog a few years ago. It’s such a classic design, but so incredibly well executed. I think I need to start making my own coats soon (I bought some fabric to make a winter coat that didn’t happen this year because instead I moved 6 hours away).

  25. Anonymous February 17, 2017 at 9:58 am #

    I love this. Beautiful .
    It has convinced me to go with this pattern. Many thanks for sharing

  26. Stepherella February 17, 2017 at 2:44 pm #

    I love it…I wish I were quite at a stage I was able to make something like this!! In a few years perhaps!

  27. Hannah February 20, 2017 at 4:55 am #

    This looks amazing, the finish, the seamwork just great. I bet this would look great in a soft rayon or tencel for a summer weight jacket! Blush pink I think.

  28. Danica February 23, 2017 at 1:28 pm #

    Didn’t get a chance to comment on your trip post, but I enjoyed it immensely. I homeschool my daughter and we had just finished an in-depth unit on Egypt right when you posted, so I shared some of your wonderful photos with her. Also, when I was your age I loved traveling by myself. So much fun and stress-free.

    On the subject of your jacket, all I can say is that it would be my dream to be able to make something that looked so professionally tailored. The zippers are so perfect, too.

  29. Tumultuous Tailor March 10, 2017 at 8:44 am #

    This anorak looks amazing! Love it πŸ™‚ Think it will take me a while before I even attempt one myself πŸ˜‰

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Closet Case Patterns // Kelly Anorak – gingerella - February 18, 2017

    […] seen so many great versions, like lladybird Lauren’s version, Georgia of Ginger Stitch’s waxed version and all of those in Heather Lou’s round up. A […]

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