Completed: Plaid Rosarí Skirt

29 Nov

Y’all. I love this skirt pattern.

Plaid Rosari Skirt - front

I’ve made it in corduroy, stretch twill, and Cone Mills denim, and I’ve had my sights on making a plaid version as well. Nothing like channeling your inner Cher Horwitz with a plaid mini amirite? This pattern is especially great for plaids as it doesn’t involve a lot of matching – just center front, center back, and the side seams – and you can add some ~visual interest~ by cutting the pockets and waistband on the bias.

If you didn’t already figure it out, this is the Rosarí Skirt from Pauline Alice Patterns. I made the mini version in a size 34, and added curved front pockets and a lining (this is not covered in the pattern, but it was pretty easy to figure out).

The plaid fabric is from Mood Fabrics. It is listed as a cotton flannel, but I think “flannel” is a bit of a stretch. It is VERY slightly flanneled if you look at it really really closely, I guess. Honestly, it just looks like a plaid shirting to me. It’s definitely cotton, just the flannel part isn’t exactly accurate. While I had visions of a cozy flannel skirt when I ordered the fabric, I think the smooth cotton works just fine. Probably makes it look a bit less like pajamas, ha. With that being said – if you are wanting to order any of this fabric, definitely get a swatch first!

The lining is Bemberg Rayon that I had in my stash (I’d say it was a miracle that I had a perfect color match, but ha ha have y’all seen my stash?), and the buttons are also old stash (I think they are originally from the flea market, though, probably).

Plaid Rosari Skirt - front

Plaid Rosari Skirt - side

Plaid Rosari Skirt - side

Plaid Rosari Skirt - back

Sewing this up was really easy and mostly uneventful, considering I’ve already made this pattern so many times. Like I said, I added a lining so that I could wear this with tights – the one thing that bums me out about my other Rosarí skirts is that they stick to tights and ride up (generally right in between my legs, which is sooo attractive I know) (I ended up making a teeny half-slip out of stretch silk charmeuse to wear with those – so problem solved! This is the tutorial I followed, FYI!). To add a lining, I cut the lining from the front and back pattern pieces, and sewed them together like a lining skirt. Then I attached them to inside along the top edge of the plaid pieces (also assembled together), and then treated everything as one piece. The lining is basically flat-lined to the outer fabric, except the side and back seams are enclosed. The front button band and hem are turned to the inside as per the pattern and topstitched down.

The only part that was eventful about this sewing – the fit! I was nearly finished – like, button holes sewn in and marking button placement nearly finished – and I tried the skirt on to mark those damn buttons. That’s when I realized that it was too tight – way too tight. I could get it to close, but it was less “cute plaid skirt” and more “sausage stuffed in a casing,” if you know what I mean. I couldn’t figure out why it was too small – did I gain weight? did I fuck up the seam allowances somewhere? – because, again, I’d made this skirt several times, all in the same size, and THOSE still fit just fine (I went in my closet and tried them all on to be sure haha). Then I threw it on the cutting table and plotted how I was going to fix this mess.

Well, first of all – I figured out why it was too small. See, all 3 previous versions were made using stretch fabric. Due to the addition of the lining, this skirt didn’t have any give to allow for a little more room (actually, the fabric itself wasn’t very stretchy either, so – that factors in as well). I probably also fucked up a seam allowance somewhere, idk.

To fix the skirt and actually make it wearable, I removed the waistband entirely. I let out the side seams until the skirt fit comfortably (I think I ended up with 3/8″ seam allowances – I don’t remember), in both the outer and the lining. Then I cut a new waistband and reattached everything. As you can see, it now fits. Success!

Here are a lot more photos. Sorry about that giant-ass wrinkle on the right, by the way.

Plaid Rosari Skirt - on dressform

Plaid Rosari Skirt - on dressform

Plaid Rosari Skirt - on dressform

Plaid Rosari Skirt - flat

Plaid Rosari Skirt - flat

Plaid Rosari Skirt - flat

Plaid Rosari Skirt - flat

I guess that’s it for this post! Moral of the story – even if you’ve made a pattern numerous times, always ALWAYS check that fit as you go! Your fabric can really change the fit of the garment. I generally do this when I sew, but the ONE time I did not, I ended up regretting it!

Plaid Rosari Skirt - front

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32 Responses to “Completed: Plaid Rosarí Skirt”

  1. qplourde November 29, 2016 at 10:06 am #

    I’m glad I saw this. I just bought some interesting looking corduroy and wanted to make a skirt like this with buttons down the front. I just bought a vintage pattern…I may look into this one too. I really like the skirt!

    • LLADYBIRD November 29, 2016 at 12:14 pm #

      Thank you! Yay for plaid skirts with buttons down the front 😀

  2. Robin Rodgers November 29, 2016 at 10:57 am #

    I sure enjoy your blog and creations! I’m in transition, living with my husband in a friend’s basement apartment. I’m seriously missing my craft nook! I’m inspired by your sewing. I never made many of my own clothes, but have done some great sewing, recovering a recliner (you can see on Instagram). I’m going to purchase a new sewing machine when we have a new home. I don’t need fancy and I’m considering the one Spiegel has. ??? Anyway, THANKS! I enjoy you!

    • LLADYBIRD November 29, 2016 at 12:15 pm #

      Thank you! I hope you get a craft nook soon… I would go crazy without my crafty space 😉

  3. Donna November 29, 2016 at 11:59 am #

    I love plaids! Always have. I’m stumped about linings, though. I’ve only lined one item so far, a 3/4 circle skirt Anna dress (By Hand London). I just bought some lightweight, narrow wale corduroy for a Darling Ranges dress (Megan Nielsen patterns) and am considering lining it with something silky so it won’t cling to tights in the winter. The Anna was poly/cotton gingham, so I used poly/cotton batiste for lining. Most lining fabrics are polyester, which might make my warm-natured daughter too hot (???) even in winter. Any suggestions for what type of lining to use would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    • LLADYBIRD November 29, 2016 at 12:16 pm #

      I would try either a silk (china silk or even charmeuse if you wanna be super fancy) or Bemberg rayon (less expensive than silk). Both are very breathable, unlike polyester, and easy to sew and press.

  4. girlintheflammableskirt November 29, 2016 at 12:35 pm #

    This is really cute and it’s probably better for the longevity of the skirt (as well as looking less like pjs) that it turned out to be a very lightly brushed cotton. I really love this version and the corduroy one you made as well as the one the one used for the sample pattern, I think it may be time to finally get the button maker on my machine fixed so I can make one!

    • LLADYBIRD November 30, 2016 at 10:10 am #

      Yes! It’s a great pattern, I love it so much 😀

  5. Karen Lyon November 29, 2016 at 3:38 pm #

    Your skirt looks terrific! You had a close call with the stretch/non stretch fabric issue though. I will keep that in mind when I go on my trouser making binge. I intend to make both woven and slightly stretch pants. Be grateful that the plaid is less flannelly than you thought you were getting. I regularly make flannel pjs for family members and the greater the flannel “feel” the more the garment pills and fades! It is a good thing that they are only pj pants. The cotton texture will help keep the skirt looking as crisp as it is now for years to come. The whole point of a wearable skirt is to wear it regularly. We all sew one occasion outfits, but the pride you feel over and over again when putting on something you’ve sewn, love, and that looks good on you cannot be stressed enough.

    I hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving.

    ________________________________

    • LLADYBIRD November 30, 2016 at 10:12 am #

      I think it really depends on the flannel! All the flannel I’ve sewn the past couple of years (primarily that Kaufmann Mammoth plaid, but also a couple pieces from Mood) have washed/held up really beautifully. No pilling or fading whatsoever (and I wear the SHIT out of this stuff in the winter!). And I agree with you that there is nothing like the feeling you get when wearing something you love that you made yourself and looks good on you!

      Thank you! Thanksgiving was lovely, and I hope yours was wonderful as well 🙂

  6. Nyssa Jayne November 29, 2016 at 4:00 pm #

    Such a betty of a skirt!

  7. Lynsey November 29, 2016 at 4:57 pm #

    Fab skirt, love it in plaid! Looks amazing on and the lining is a nice touch

    • LLADYBIRD November 30, 2016 at 10:12 am #

      Thank you! I’m so happy I added the lining, it really makes the skirt that much nicer!

  8. Loganstitches November 29, 2016 at 6:11 pm #

    Another awesome Rosari. Thanks for sharing all of your versions.

  9. Gayle November 29, 2016 at 7:26 pm #

    Love the skirt! Reminds me of some I made and loved waaaaaaay back when I was in high school. I particularly like the way you’ve lined it. I never thought of doing that to avoid the sticking-to-the-tights issue. Brilliant!
    p.s. I see you’ve been keeping up on the unplugging of the electrical cord before you take pics. Good job, lol. 😉

    • LLADYBIRD November 30, 2016 at 10:15 am #

      Haha I have!!! I told you I would do my best to try and remember 😉 haha

  10. Tomasa November 29, 2016 at 9:00 pm #

    Such a cute skirt! Love those buttons going down the center front – fun!

  11. Elaine Laswell November 30, 2016 at 6:34 am #

    Hi Lauren! Is the top you’re wearing a pattern that you sewed or store bought?

    • LLADYBIRD November 30, 2016 at 10:15 am #

      It’s a Sewaholic Renfrew tshirt 🙂

      • Elaine December 1, 2016 at 8:06 am #

        Thx!

  12. PsychicKathleen November 30, 2016 at 5:11 pm #

    Lauren your creations always suit you to a Tee and this skirt is spot on. It’s more common to see the skirt on the bias and the pockets on the straight of grain but I love the look of the reverse. I’m guilty of just ignoring seam allowances which I know sounds really odd but it’s true. I just sew whatever I want in seam allowances (which tend to be either a 1/4 or 3/8) probably because I don’t like my clothes so closely fitted anyway. I’ve certainly made up a pattern in a woven and OOPS discovered it was far too small and made up the next one in knit and it was perfect 🙂

    • LLADYBIRD December 6, 2016 at 8:21 am #

      That sounds crazy haha. I can’t imagine changing up the seam allowances that much and still getting a good fit. But I’m glad to hear that it works for you 🙂

  13. SANA BHARANI December 2, 2016 at 1:40 am #

    The skirt looks great. The size, fit and design. I have noticed that when you attach lining, do not attach on all sides; I mean do not attach the hem of the lining to the hem of the outer fabric. that way, there is room for expansion (or contraction due to shrinkage in some fabrics), and there will be give in the fabric. try it next time. You can attach the lining on all sides only if the lining fabric is very thin and loosely woven.
    when in doubt about the fabrics, another alternative is to make a separate slip.

    • LLADYBIRD December 6, 2016 at 8:24 am #

      Good to know about the lining! I have a slip that I made for my other skirts, but I prefer the lining if I can get away with it bc it’s just easier to wear (and I’m less likely to forget to bring it if I’m traveling or something)

  14. Deborah Penner December 2, 2016 at 12:25 pm #

    Just want to let you know how your blog often cheers my day. Have followed others, but in one case, when the blogger became “famous,” she stopped being genuine. You always keep that genuine vibe.

    • LLADYBIRD December 6, 2016 at 8:25 am #

      Aw, thank you! Glad to have you here ♥

  15. Karen December 5, 2016 at 7:32 pm #

    Loved seeing this skirt! I made one in the 70s and am glad to see them in stores and magazines again. Especially glad to see how you matched your plaids, which is so rare in store-bought clothes these days and drives me nuts! It looks great on you! Love the bias waistband too. 🙂

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. 2016: A Year In Review | LLADYBIRD - December 31, 2016

    […] call 2016 the year of the Rosari skirt – I made this one, a black one, a denim one, and a plaid one. I fucking LOVE this pattern, if you can’t […]

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