Completed: Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

10 Nov

Continuing on the Navy Train (although not really, bc I actually made this shit ages before I made my Navy Twill Gingers), here is what I guess we can consider the other half to my ~casual navy suit~ – the blazer!

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Although, unlike most blazers – this one is made of a ponte knit, which makes it about as comfortable to wear as a knit hoodie. I dunno about y’all, but this is basically a huge score as far as I’m concerned.

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

The Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio has been out for a while (and yes, I completely acknowledge that my finished blazer looks exactly like the shop sample no regrets), but I initially disregarded it as an option for my wardrobe as I haven’t bothered to wear a blazer since pretty much my very first office job. Even when I was working in office environments up until I switched to a more casual work life a few years ago, I eschewed the (often uncomfortable, often ill-fitting) blazer in favor of simple and much more comfortable cardigans. Actually, I had a really beautiful black wool blazer that I bought on sale at Bebe when I was in high school (lol anyway, but you’d lol even harder if you knew me in high school because my preferred places to shop were generally Hot Topic and the kid’s section of Goodwill hahahahah oh teenagers) that I wore the hell out of, and it was sadly stolen right my desk when I was 19, at the T-Mobile call center I was working at. To whoever stole that thing: fuck you. Also, I hope you couldn’t fit into it. I was really really small back then, like 90 lbs small. My clothes from back then were fucking comical… and also the reason why I learned how to sew in the first place. Alterations! Yay!

ANYWAY MOVING ON.

What eventually caught my attention about the Morris Blazer is that it is a much more casual take on the traditional blazer – obviously you can’t wear this in a corporate environment, but it’s still a step up from that aforementioned hoodie. It is intended to be made using a stretch woven fabric, and the blazer is unlined. I’d seen some people make it out of a ponte knit, which really piqued my interest because I am all about some ponte knit and its secret pajama properties.

I used a navy nylon Ponte de Roma from Mood Fabrics – it’s currently sold out in this colorway, but they have other colorways and it tends to go back in stock pretty frequently, FYI. I have also bought this ponte in the black & wine colors – it is great! Nice and thick, a good heavy stretch in 4 directions, and it remains opaque and holds its shape quite nicely. It washes really well and I haven’t noticed any pilling on any of my pieces. The rayon content makes it feel a bit nicer than the pure poly stuff, but the spandex/nylon additions give it that good recovery so it doesn’t bag out of shape over the course of the day.

I initially was a tiny bit concerned about using this fabric, as the Grainline website really suggests against using knits with a 4 way stretch – this pattern is intended for 2 way stretch wovens, so that the blazer doesn’t stretch and sag downward against the facing. I couldn’t find a good knit fabric that was heavy enough, had the intended stretch amount, *and* came in the color I wanted, however. So I threw caution to the wind and just used this stuff. I’ve been wearing the finished product for about 2 months and I reckon it turned out fine. So, in case you were wondering about 2 way vs 4 way stretch with this pattern!

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

I made the size 0, which is my usual size for Grainline patterns. I lengthened the sleeves to full-length – bracelet length is pretty, but I’ve decided there is no place in my life for that nonsense (either I’m cold enough to need full sleeves, or don’t want sleeves at all. My sleeve opinions are very black and white haha). I had also originally raised the armholes by about 1″, since I found the armholes in my Lark tee to be about that much too low (if you’re wondering why you don’t remember that post, it’s cos I haven’t written it yet haha), but lowered them back down to the original size when I tried on the blazer without sleeves. I used fusible tricot knit to interface the facings (I did not interface the entire front section, which is suggested in the sew along if you use a 4 way stretch as I did), and sewed most of the construction on my serger, with all topstitching done on my regular machine with a straight stitch.

Overall, I found this pattern really easy to follow. There is some interesting seam wizardry going on to create that shawl collar out of the shoulder seams, but none of it is particularly difficult. I like how the hems are all faced, and I like the topstitching detailing – especially at the bottom hem, which I know some people weren’t a fan of. I like that the knit fabric makes as comfortable as wearing a ratty hoodie, without actually looking like a ratty hoodie. I wasn’t sure if I would like that it didn’t have closures – I am the sort of person who never wears things open; if there are zippers or buttons, they are done up – but it hangs really nicely and I rather like how smooth and streamlined it is. One thing to note is that the facing is not tacked down at the front of the blazer, except at the shoulders and where it is caught in the hem. I read some reviews that people did not like how it flipped out, however, I haven’t found this to be an issue with my blazer.

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

Navy Ponte Morris Blazer

I have worn this quite a bit over the past couple of months – it’s a nice protection against the freezing a/c blasts Tennesseans love to subject people to, and a pleasant style change from the basic cardigans I usually carry around. I think this pattern combined with the Pinot pants would make an awesome ponte fake suit – you know, kind of dressed up from a distance but TOTAL LEISURE COMFORT in reality haha.

Also, in case you were curious -I also made the rest of my outfit! The jeans are Cone Mills Ginger jeans, and my tshirt is a Renfew made with bamboo knit β™₯ that knit is another fabric I buy over and and over again – because it’s awesome! It’s super soft, incredibly stretchy without being sheer, and has an amazing recovery. It’s also super wide, so I can cut a long sleeve shirt out of a single yard of fabric. It tends to go in and out of stock quickly, but it looks like they just restocked the website. FYI!!

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28 Responses to “Completed: Navy Ponte Morris Blazer”

  1. Beth November 10, 2016 at 12:57 pm #

    Classic blazer style has, for some reason, never suited me. The lapel thing, mainly, I think. This pattern, however, is a really nice tweak. And as for the thief who stole your black wool blazer….how morally bankrupt. They really didn’t have anything before they stole it and they continued to have nothing even after they took it. Philosophy class over, ahem…. πŸ™‚

    • LLADYBIRD November 10, 2016 at 4:13 pm #

      Yeah, I love the lapel on this blazer – it’s a little more casual (and a lot more easy to sew) than your standard blazer lapel. And the curved hem at the bottom is wonderful too πŸ™‚

      And yes, very morally bankrupt to steal someone’s clothes! I like your philosophy on that, though πŸ™‚

  2. Shaneka Giscombe November 10, 2016 at 2:11 pm #

    LAUREN!!! You did it again. You given me the spark to actually stop hoarding this pattern and make it.

    • LLADYBIRD November 10, 2016 at 4:14 pm #

      Woohoo!! I win again! πŸ˜‰

  3. Deborah Penner November 10, 2016 at 3:12 pm #

    Lovely blazer. As a person who has worn them for years, I love this knit rendition of the blazer. Beautiful fabric and color choice as well.

  4. Hélène Martin November 10, 2016 at 3:17 pm #

    So good! I used to have a ponte knit blazer I wore to death. Thank you for helping me realize I should obviously make one. Duh. Also I’m with you on team extreme sleeves.

    • LLADYBIRD November 10, 2016 at 4:21 pm #

      High five for extreme sleeves!

  5. Kathy November 10, 2016 at 4:38 pm #

    Looking sharp! πŸ˜€

  6. Donna B. November 10, 2016 at 5:20 pm #

    Hi Lauren,

    I’m interested in the bamboo jersey. Is it lightweight or super lightweight? Good for t-shirts? I don’t want anything TOO lightweight and am wondering if this fits the bill.

    I have the Morris pattern and even the fabric. I should really, REALLY get it put together. (So much fabric, so many patterns, so little time. *sigh*)

    • LLADYBIRD November 10, 2016 at 6:12 pm #

      It’s on the light side, but not sheer. It is, however, quite clingy and you can see the seamlines of my bra through it. Obviously this does not bother me but I thought I would point it out! I love it for tshirts bc it has a great drape and elastic recovery. With that being said, I recommend ordering a search to be sure!

      • Donna B. November 10, 2016 at 8:55 pm #

        Thanks, Lauren. Good to know.

  7. Kit November 10, 2016 at 6:37 pm #

    Your set in sleeves are a masterpiece by themselves. Mine always suck. How do you get them so smooth? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

    • LLADYBIRD November 11, 2016 at 6:26 am #

      Part of what made these work so well is how they were drafted – there’s very little ease in the sleeve caps, so they set in smoother. I also just use one line of basting stitches right at the seamline, I think it makes a more subtle ease than 2-3 lines.

      • Kit November 11, 2016 at 1:17 pm #

        Fantastic!!! I just ordered the pattern and cannot wait to sew it.

  8. Katherine Fetty November 10, 2016 at 9:59 pm #

    I can’t seem to get past your potty mouth, for that reason, I’m out.

  9. Lynsey November 11, 2016 at 2:17 am #

    Only low life arseholes who will never be happy steal, fuck em! Your amazing so you win πŸ™‚ x I’ve been looking at this pattern trying to decide if it’s for me?? The closure issue worries me but I’m sure I could put a button on it if needed. Yours looks fab and you’ve convinced me to give it a go! X

    • LLADYBIRD November 11, 2016 at 6:28 am #

      I thought the same thing about the lack of closure, but i figured I could put something there after the fact if it bothered me. I obviously ended up not doing that – it’s fine without the closure – so yeah, that’s an option!

  10. Kit November 11, 2016 at 6:05 am #

    I should have also told you that I am totally in love with your blog. I have some fab ponte knit that should work for this. I am going to get the pattern.

  11. PsychicKathleen November 11, 2016 at 9:00 am #

    I can wax poetic over the Morris myself πŸ™‚ I just LOVE this pattern and I love your rendition. I too am a fan of that rayon ponte and made pants out of it last year. When I put them on recently I was reminded of how comfortable they are! I made 2 Morris’s – one out of gray fleece (going with the not-a-hoodie-but-like-a-hoodie idea) and one with true UK Cashmere (a gift) which I sewed on the bias to allow for some ease. Love them both and wear them all the time!

    • LLADYBIRD November 11, 2016 at 9:49 am #

      Omg both of those sound fabulous!! I love the idea of making it in bias cashmere… sounds so snuggly and also really beautiful!

  12. Lodi November 11, 2016 at 9:44 am #

    I’d love to see the blazer with “rounded” points. (For some resonators the points put me off. ?) Have you made the Pinot pants? They look oh so comfy and pajama-like!

    • LLADYBIRD November 11, 2016 at 9:51 am #

      The points are one of my favorite parts of the design, but I don’t think they’d be too hard to round out if you wanted to! And yes, I have made the Pinot pants! I never blogged about them because they are essentially black yoga pants… but they are great. I used black ponte knit and firm powermesh for the waistband (there is a tutorial on how to do this on the SBCC blog… it basically gives you an elastic waistband that is very smooth) and added the optional pocket download. They are SO comfortable and the fit was really great out of the envelope πŸ™‚

  13. Kelly November 13, 2016 at 10:20 am #

    I made a couple of these when the pattern first came out and I got so many compliments on them in my artsy-business-casual office! The cut of the blazer is so nice. I should make another, maybe in navy πŸ™‚

  14. Catherine from Canada November 15, 2016 at 1:58 pm #

    I have made a couple of these too! – one in a stretch sateen to wear over a sleeveless sheath for my daughter’s November wedding and most recently in white linen for summer. I thought the linen was sheer enough that the facing would look odd, so I left off the facing and just bound the edge with bias binding made with the white linen. Love it, and it’s fast to make that way! My next(s) will be a red sweater knit one and a grey fleece one. With long sleeves, I’m with you on the sleeves (here in the almost frozen North).

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