Completed: Striped Linen Hawthorn Dress

24 Aug

Same as with Simplicity 6266 (which, by the way – when I first published that post – I had the pattern # all kinds of wrong and have since been corrected and updated the blog post – if you were trying to find the pattern and couldn’t, maybe try again with the correct number! Just FYI!), the Colette Patterns Hawthorn is one of those patterns that I LOVE to wear and swore I’d make a million more of… then never actually did. It’s the sweetest little pattern – a very feminine shirt dress with an interesting collar and a beautiful, swirly skirt – and I get loads of compliments whenever I wear any of my other versions (especially the Chambray version – which I wear at least once a week in the summer because it’s soooo good). Alas, it’s been over a year since I did anything with the pattern, despite it being in my pile of “patterns to make next” for, well, over a year. Whoops.

This year, I have been all about settling down, sewing-wise, and making repeats of things I know I love (instead of constantly being distracted by the new and shiny). So I made a Hawthorn.

Striped Linen/Cotton HawthornI think it turned out pretty good! We had a few harrowing moments there for a bit, but it all worked out in the end. Yay for the TNT and knowing what works! Striped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn

I’ve already talked quite a bit about this pattern, considering that I’ve made it three times (see: Sweet Cherry Hawthorn, Organic Cotton Sateen Hawthorn, and the aforementioned Chambray Hawthorn WHICH IS THE BEST ONE BTW). I cut my usual/adjusted size, and mostly followed the instructions as they are written. All harrowing moments were due to fabric, not pattern.

Striped Linen/Cotton HawthornStriped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn

The fabric is another piece that I bought from Elizabeth; the striped cotton/linen blend (at least, I think there is cotton in there – it doesn’t wrinkle as much as 100% linen tends to do) was from her SS15 collection, which is currently no longer available (but, btw, FW15 LAUNCHES TODAY EEEE). I’ve seen some makes using this fabric – in the same brown/black/white colors (Kelly’s Southport dress!) and in a blue/white/black colorway (Sewaholic’s Cambie dress!) – so if this stuff looks familiar, well, it’s making the rounds!

As a side note – not that this really matters, but I know I’ve mentioned before that I’ve gotten some pieces gratis as part of an ES destash, but this particular piece was one that I paid for. Granted, I got it for wholesale price – but it wasn’t free :). Elizabeth isn’t in the fabric business at all (I only get to buy as part of an employee perk, basically), so I don’t think it matters, but I thought I’d mention it anyway!

Striped Linen/Cotton HawthornI originally bought my little piece to make a woven tshirt – like, maybe a Scout or something – so I only bought about 1.5 yards. I decided it would be better as a dress, but it took me a long time to decide on which pattern to use. The Hawthorn was a good choice, except that I didn’t have quite enough fabric and had to do some creative piecing to get all the pieces to fit and to get the stripes to mostly match (all I can say is, I did my best). Check out that photo of the back – see the center back seam that I added? Yes. I also pieced the top of the back bodice, right along the black stripes. You can’t see that shit at all because I matched it up pretty well, and the stripes make the seam lines disappear. But it is there! Striped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn

I had NO IDEA how to cut the collar with the stripes, so I just kind of winged it. Surprisingly, the stripes match up kind of cool with the bodice stripes. I didn’t plan that whatsoever, and I was somewhat concerned I’d have a hot mess of a bodice on my hands once I added the collar and the stripes started going every which way, but I really like how it turned out. It actually looks intentional.

Striped Linen/Cotton HawthornHere’s the back again. Can you see my piecing? On the right hand side (the side where my tattoo is), the very first batch of stripes – the bottom black stripe is where the seamline is. On the left side (opposite of tattoo), the second batch of stripes – the seamline is in the top black stripe. Can you see it now? Can you UNSEE it now? (sorry about that) I honestly thought this dress was a goner about halfway through cutting it and realizing that I didn’t have enough fabric, but thank god for stripes making seamlines invisible. Yay! The stripe-matching worked out pretty well, but I did have one big snafu that kind of sucked… Striped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn

Whatever the hell is going on with the waistline here, that’s what. I’m not really sure how I managed to cut those stripes so they’d suck THAT bad, but it looks like I’m wearing a bow right over some part of my intestine. How dainty! Except it actually looks pretty stupid. Thankfully, as you’ve probably (not)noticed from the pictures – a belt covers it quite well, so that’s my solution. It does mean that I can’t really wear the dress without a belt, but I am pro-belt at this point in my life, so I’m not terribly concerned about that.

Some more photos:
Striped Linen/Cotton HawthornStriped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn

The linen is SO soft, with a slight little drape that’s just lovely. It’s really comfortable to wear in the heat. Because of the drape, the bodice is a little softer and less structured than my other Hawthorns, which is a nice change. This also meant that I needed to let the skirt hang for something like 48 hours to get all the bias settle before hemming (and it was crazy uneven before I evened it out).

Striped Linen/Cotton HawthornThe inside is very simple – stitched and serged (this fabric sheds like a mofo, so finishing the edges with a serge was very necessary). I serged the facing edges so they’d have less bulk, and finished the arm holes with polka dot bias binding because it’s a little thinner and less bulky (and easier to work with, since it sheds less) than the linen. Stripe-matching the facings was probably a little bit of overkill on my end. Whatever 🙂 Striped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn
The buttons are just black shirting buttons I had in my stash. I originally wanted to use wooden buttons, but black ended up looking best with the fabric. Instead of putting a button at the waistline, I used a hook and eye. This makes the area nice and smooth so it’s more comfortable to wear a belt.

Striped Linen/Cotton Hawthorn

Making this up definitely reminded me of why I love this pattern so much! It’s really beautiful and feels good to wear. A similar look would be the new Sewaholic Nicola dress, which has that same V-neck with collar, but it’s designed for a drapier fabric, thanks to all the soft gathers, and looks quite a bit more 70s. I’d love to try this pattern (talking about Hawthorn now, but I want to try Nicola too!) with long sleeves, sewn up in a plaid, for a cozy winter version. That, too, has been on my list for waaaay too long. Maybe this winter I’ll actually get around to making it 🙂


34 Responses to “Completed: Striped Linen Hawthorn Dress”

  1. Paige August 24, 2015 at 6:58 am #

    Gorgeous dress. I’ve been all over the linen/chambray/breezy tops recently. This is such a great style with SUCH a great fabric. And I’m dutifully not looking at any supposed striping mismatches. I see NOTHING.

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 7:53 am #

      GOOD. Let’s keep it that way hahahahahaha 😉 But seriously, thank you!

  2. shesewsswell August 24, 2015 at 9:29 am #

    I’ve been all over linen palazzo pants lately…. You’ve persuaded me to give the Hawthorn a second look. I love stripes… I love twirling outfits…. Nicely done on the stripes, had you not pointed out your seams, most of us would have never known. AWESOME DRESS! Happy Monday!

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 7:54 am #

      I love those linen palazzo pants, but I feel that it’s not a look that would work for me. But man, love them on other people! You should totally give that Hawthorn a try 🙂

  3. Zoë August 24, 2015 at 9:29 am #

    I love the Hawthorne, the stripes look great and that unintentional matching on the back collar is amaze balls!

  4. Evie August 24, 2015 at 9:42 am #

    The Hawthorn is one of my faves, too! I’ve made it twice, and have another blouse version cut out and waiting to be sewn up. I made a striped version before and, girl, you did pretty well with this. Striped fabric with this pattern is surprisingly insane to deal with.

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 7:58 am #

      You are absolutely right, matching stripes on this pattern was pretty crazy! Way crazier than I’d anticipated when I was first planning the project. I’m pretty amazed that I got the skirt side seams to match at all hahaa.

  5. SamCain August 24, 2015 at 10:14 am #

    I’m drooling over this dress! Amazing!

  6. francescapia August 24, 2015 at 10:15 am #

    Amazing. How on earth did you manage to match such uneven stripes with such a small amount of fabric? Girl, you amaze me:).
    See you solved the pointy dart thing. Not that iit ever looked bad:).

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 8:02 am #

      I have NO IDEA. I kind of zoned out for a while there; maybe some light magic? Hahahahaha

      And I think the pointy darts were solved thanks to the softness of the fabric! It doesn’t have a crisp drape at all, so any points just kind of settle into the curve. I was thinking about that the other day and that was the conclusion I came up with, because I certainly didn’t do anything to the pattern piece to change the dart haha 🙂

  7. Melissa at Craft Rambler August 24, 2015 at 11:01 am #

    This is amazing! I love the fabric and how you placed it!! So cute.

  8. rycrafty August 24, 2015 at 11:17 am #

    I bought some of this fabric from Blackbird Fabrics, and it is a cotton-linen blend. And SO. MUCH. FRAYING. I don’t have a serger, so I thought I’d get fancy and use bias tape to finish my hem, and the first time I stitched the tape on, when it just had one row of stitching in it? It just came off! Slid right off with all those extra threads.
    The finished skirt is industrial strength because I didn’t want that happening again, so everything is SO SEWN.

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 8:22 am #

      Oh yeah, it frays like a little bitch!! I don’t normally think one *has* to have a serger to sew a particular fabric, but in this case it’s almost necessary. I’m not surprised that the bias tape came sliding off, although man, that’s a bummer! Glad you got it to work out!

  9. Kate August 24, 2015 at 11:32 am #

    This is a great fabric and pattern combination, the back collar area is so cool. I hear you on the shredding. I finished a linen/rayon Southport dress this weekend and I made myself make some bias binding from the same fabric not knowing any better. That learning experience was a serious exercise in patience.

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 8:23 am #

      Ooh, yeah, I’ve made that mistake before! Never again haha!!

  10. Tatiana August 24, 2015 at 12:01 pm #

    Such a beautiful dress! I didn’t notice the waist stripe with the belt, but I like it without the belt too. It does look like a bow, like it is a design feature, and not stupid at all.

    • LLADYBIRD August 25, 2015 at 8:23 am #

      I think I’ll probably learn to love it over time 🙂 Right now I just see it and see a glaringly obvious mistake, so I’m gonna have to get over that first! haha!

  11. Lori August 24, 2015 at 12:52 pm #

    Gorgeous dress and beautiful fabric.

  12. Lisa August 24, 2015 at 1:05 pm #

    I love the fabric with this pattern, so great!

  13. ellegeemakes August 24, 2015 at 11:48 pm #

    OMG I love that dress! That striped linen was made in heaven I’m sure and the Hawthorn was the perfect match up for it. The collar stripes work so well with the bodice stripe placement too. Very cute.

  14. Ratrace August 25, 2015 at 5:39 am #

    I absolutely enjoy how you always take a pattern and fit it to perfection. You pulled out some real fabric manipulating skills on this dress.

  15. letstweedagain August 25, 2015 at 10:42 am #

    When I saw that back colar I thought “this is too perfect to be intentional” 🙂
    I’ve also been sewing more TNT patterns without being distracted by new releases. It’s like finally getting to the adulthood of sewing (vs. the teenage years of sewing when you only sew the bright & shiny new patterns)

  16. LinB August 25, 2015 at 11:47 am #

    The only fiber blend better than linen-cotton for the miasma that haunts Southern summers is a silk-cotton blend! But linen-cotton is both easier to find and less expensive. And I find that it wicks better than either pure linen or pure cotton, but that may just be me.

    That brown-cream-black combination means you’ve achieved a three-season dress, too — which is always nice to have in your closet. I think the bodice bottom striping at center front looks a bit like a stomacher on an historical gown, without having to lace yourself into a corset. So, yay.

  17. gingerella August 28, 2015 at 2:42 pm #

    Adore the fabric! You did a great job at matching the stripes. You made me snort with that bit about the stripes at the waistline!

  18. JessieRoo August 29, 2015 at 10:25 am #

    I actually think you could be on to something with the stripe-issue at the bodice waistline-wouldn’t it be a nifty little detail if it was done more intentionally, to have the stripes extend across the front between the darts only, all the way down? I’m not sure I’m describing very well what I envision….


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