Completed: Floral Butterick 5526

4 Feb

What’s that, you say? This is Butterick 5526 overkill?

deal with it
noragrets

~I DO WHAT I WANT~

B5526 Floral

In all seriousness, though, I did have a small internal debate about posting yet another shirt of the pattern I’ve talked about to death, but ultimately – I mainly use this blog as a sort of digital diary of my projects (truth: the entire purpose behind my tagging system & the Lurk My Closet pages are specifically so I can quickly find old projects without having to spend a lot of time searching haha), and I think this particular shirt has earned a spot in the archives. I’m really pleased with the resulting fit and finish, and I feel really good about the particular fabric I used (print aside – although, I gotta say, it’s pretty gorgeous!).

B5526 Floral

B5526 Floral

Unfortunately, that means I have less to talk about as I think I’ve pretty much milked this shit for all it’s worth. Fortunately, I feel really really confident in my shirtmaking skillz. I’ve pretty much got my construction down to a science, I know what fabrics are best suited for this style + the way I like it to look, and, dammit, I just really really love shirtmaking. So precise! So clean! So wearable every day basics!

B5526 Floral

As I mentioned, this is Butterick 5526, sewn up in a beautiful cotton shirting that I bought on Goldhawk Road in London. A lot of people have pointed out that the print resembles a Liberty print – and, while I agree, I also am pretttty sure it’s not the real deal. For one, I don’t remember exactly how much I paid for it, but I know it was less than the Β£25 they charge per meter at the Liberty store. Also, the selvedge is blank, if not missing entirely. That being said, it’s a very fine, soft shirting cotton – so maybe it fell off the truck? Maybe it’s an end bolt? An ~inspired~ knock-off? I dunno.

At any rate, it’s gorgeous. I just love the colors – the florals are a little less girly here, a little more of that 60s groovy that I’m really drawn to lately. The fabric itself is soft and has just enough drape to really make the shirt hang nicely. I’ve learned that I don’t care for true cotton shirtings in this pattern – when they’re stiff, I don’t think they look right on me. Give me something softer with a little bit of drape, like a cotton voile!

B5526 Floral

I don’t have any ~special tips~ for working with this fabric. Same as it ever was – just use a new needle, take your time with cutting and sewing, enjoy the ride, etc etc.

B5526 Floral

Oh, I think I nailed down a good sleeve length! Butterick 5526 in polka dot chambray (that’s my favorite one and I wear it ALL THE TIME. I have to hide it from myself so I don’t have too much of a good thing, ha) started out with sleeves too long, and I debated shortening them – but after a conversation with Landon, he brilliantly pointed out that they might shrink up a little after a couple of washes (even with prewashing, this can happen – which is always something I consider with pants, but never shirts. Which is why all my flannels have sleeves that are too short now haha). So I decided to leave the sleeves long and wait – and I’m so glad I did, because that’s exactly what happened. They shrank and are the perfect length now. So for this shirt, I used the same sleeve length and I think it’ll shrink up just right. The placket fits and it’s the right length (unlike my silk georgette B5526, wah), which is pretty prime if you ask me.

B5526 Floral

The only change I made to this version was to remove a few inches of length. I’ve always felt that my collared shirts were a little too long, at least when worn over my higher-waisted pants (and no matter what I do, they look weird tucked in. Half tuck, full tuck, no tuck, doesn’t matter. I get this weird tuck gut and, ugh), so I copied the length from my Liberty button up and transferred it to this pattern. I am MUCH happier with the length now; I think it works better with my proportions.

B5526 Floral

The shirt is constructed entirely with flat-felled seams. Here is a flat-felled boob for your perusal.

B5526 Floral

B5526 Floral

I also added sleeve tabs, so I could roll up the sleeves when the weather decides to warm up. Didn’t want to choose between long or short sleeves, so I chose both! Also, bonus background cat. I think she was screaming for me to feed her at that point (I’m sure you can tell just by looking at my portly feline that she is indeed not starving, but she would lead you to believe otherwise).

B5526 Floral

Here it is with the sleeves rolled up. I love these tabs because I think the rolled up sleeves look neater when buttoned into place. Of course, that means there is a visible button and some stitching on the outside of the sleeve, but I can deal with that. I was curious as to whether I’d find the tab annoying when it’s not being used (aka rubbing against my arm on the inside of my sleeve), but I have some pajamas that use the same concept and they don’t bother me at all.

B5526 Floral

B5526 Floral

B5526 Floral

B5526 Floral

Did you notice the buttons? Here’s a close-up:

B5526 Floral

Haha! I always save the buttons from Landon’s shirts when they are getting thrown away (we are talking super worn out to the point of not being worthy of donated), since I tend to be pretty conservative with my button choices and, hey, free buttons. I almost didn’t want to go with these because I’m not crazy about the branding on them, but, whatever. They match the print really well. Can’t argue with that. And I do love American Eagle – or, at least I did when I was a teen (yes, this is the same teen/same time when I was wearing black vinyl pants. What can I say, I like their take on the classics haha), I haven’t been in there recently enough to form an judgement opinion.

B5526 Floral

That’s all I got! Kind of a boring post, but quite a useful garment. I am really enjoying making the same pattern over and over – no need to reinvent the wheel with my fitting, and it’s kind of fun to see the obvious improvements with each make. I’ve had a few people ask me if I have plants to make the new Sewaholic Granville Shirt, and while the pattern looks beautiful, I think I’m just going to stick with what I know I already love and has been fitted to my liking. Again, not trying to reinvent the wheel here! Although, I’ve been watching the shirtmaking posts with great interest. There’s always so much to learn, I love it!

As a side note – those are my Ginger jeans I’m wearing in these photos. I’ve been wearing them off and on for about 2 weeks, and they’ve held up their shape really nicely. I’m actually pretty surprised – most of my handmade pants need to be washed after about 2 wears because they stretch out all crazy and don’t recover until they hit the dryer. The denim I used for these jeans is nowhere near the quality of my I+W jeans, but I don’t have any complaints (except for that I didn’t consider shrinkage when drying, and now they are a tiny bit short. On the flip side – this might be the first time pants have ever had too short of an inseam on me, which is sort of exciting it’s in own way). Now if only I had more… Heather, will you pls go denim shopping with me again? Thnx.

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56 Responses to “Completed: Floral Butterick 5526”

  1. Marie February 4, 2015 at 7:39 am #

    The phrase “Here is a flat-felled boob for your perusal.” made me chuckle a lot. Exactly the sort of thing I’d say! Love the button tabs for the sleeves too as I’m definitely a rolled up sleeve kinda gal.

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:27 pm #

      Haha it made me laugh too while I was typing it. Glad you approve πŸ™‚

  2. Laura February 4, 2015 at 7:52 am #

    This is definitely a “fitting basics” question, so apologies in advance. How do you get the front of your shirt to lie so flat, with no gap at all? I know the answer is usually a FBA, but I feel like maybe that’s not the solution for my issue. My problem isn’t so much that the shirt fronts are pulling crosswise as that the shirt front on the bottom (the one that the buttons are on) just seems to fall toward my chest while the other one stays up. Do I just need to do more of an FBA? I’ve been using the D cup variation in the Big 4 patterns. I like that your shirt still looks fitted. I feel like if I made a looser shirt, either through sizing up or doing more of an FBA, it would look loose. Any advice you have is much appreciated. I know it’s probably hard to understand my problem without seeing a picture, haha.

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:31 pm #

      You’re right, it’s hard for me to understand 100% what you’re talking about without a photo to look at – but I wonder, is your button in the right spot? Back when I was first sewing buttoned shirts, I didn’t realize that the placement of the buttons themselves are just as important as the actual fit. If it’s not an issue of button placement, you probably just need a little more room in the boobs (or a little less at the waist). I like this pattern because the princess seams allow for easy adjusting without having to fiddle with darts or messing with the side seams. The princess seams are also a big part of the reason why this shirt is a bit more fitted looking πŸ™‚

  3. Kelly February 4, 2015 at 8:16 am #

    Every so often I’m bored at work, and randomly plug in your blog url and more often than not I am rewarded with a brand new post – I don’t know how it works, but I like it! This shirt is gorgeous. I love love love this pattern, just adore those princess seams. The fabric does look liberty-esque. Classic textiles on goldhawk road does a lot of faux liberty prints for Β£7/m, so it’s possibly one of those πŸ™‚

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:33 pm #

      Haha sweet! I love it when stuff like that works out πŸ™‚

      Classic Textiles might have been the place? I really should pay attention to the names of where I shop haha.

  4. Anonymous February 4, 2015 at 8:25 am #

    Always good to see a re-run in a different fabric. This one is lovely.

  5. Inclement February 4, 2015 at 8:32 am #

    Personally I never get tired of seeing the same pattern over and over again! It’s never exactly the same, after all, and always fun to read regardless :). For example, to think we could have missed seeing this fabric made into a beautiful shirt would be so sad.

    (Love when Dearest Tortoiseshell sneaks into pictures. I have even been known to enter “amelia” and/or “cat” into your search box…:D.)

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:35 pm #

      Haha! I should try to sneak more pictures of her in the blog more often… she’s always got a butt in at least one picture that I take πŸ™‚

  6. Sew Fresh February 4, 2015 at 8:48 am #

    I like this fabric so much! Also, the fit is amazing on this, I hope to get to this level one day!

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:36 pm #

      Thank you so much! You’ll get there – just takes lots of practice (which I think is the fun part ;))!

  7. Kelly February 4, 2015 at 9:53 am #

    Beautiful fabric, beautiful shirt, beautiful sleeve tabs! And agreed, I just can’t figure out how people pull off tucked shirts.

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:37 pm #

      Me neither! Maybe it’s one of those things that looks fine to everyone else but just looks ridiculous to you because you are looking down? Unless it’s a half tuck. I think those look ridiculous regardless πŸ˜›

  8. julieculshaw February 4, 2015 at 10:06 am #

    Beautifully done. A question which you may have answered in previous posts. Do you use fusible interfacing or sew-in?

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:38 pm #

      I use a lightweight fusible interfacing (from Fashion Sewing Supply) for the majority of my projects πŸ™‚

  9. Amelie February 4, 2015 at 10:10 am #

    That shirt looks gorgeous! I`m also totally into shirt making. I have made two Archers for me and a Negroni for my boyfriend. It’s so much fun when everything comes together so smoothly. Next I’m going to try the Granville shirt.
    By the way: Your stag necklace is awesome!

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:40 pm #

      Shirt making is super fun! I am interested to hear your experience with Granville – everything I’ve seen so far has been really impressive.

      And thank you!

  10. Lola February 4, 2015 at 10:46 am #

    you’re welcome

  11. McCallPatternCompany (@McCallPatternCo) February 4, 2015 at 11:05 am #

    Perfection. Well done. Love your “deal with it” face.

  12. clΓ©op4 February 4, 2015 at 11:19 am #

    You sew a lot, how do you organize the storage of your fabrics?
    Do you have pictures?

  13. qplourde February 4, 2015 at 11:41 am #

    Love the sleeve tabs – very cute! Great post and I’m in awe at how straight all your seams are!

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:43 pm #

      Haha thank you! Straight seams come as the result of many years of practice πŸ™‚

  14. Nathalie February 4, 2015 at 12:28 pm #

    This shirt is gorgeous. I love the fabric and the added sleeve taps, they are so useful if you roll the sleeves often.

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:43 pm #

      Thank you! I love me some sleeve tabs, so useful! πŸ™‚

  15. Kathy C. February 4, 2015 at 2:32 pm #

    What a beautiful job…Very well done.

  16. weefrills February 4, 2015 at 5:55 pm #

    So pretty! I love shades of indigo like this print.

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:45 pm #

      Thank you! I love the colors of the print; they’re not quite as girly as some floral prints πŸ™‚

  17. V Reed February 4, 2015 at 6:39 pm #

    So pretty! I love seeing all your iterations of this blouse. I bought the pattern after reading one of your posts, but I have yet to make it up.

    • LLADYBIRD February 4, 2015 at 6:45 pm #

      That’s so awesome! You should make it up – I mean, as long as you’re ok with falling down a shirt making rabbit hole πŸ˜‰

  18. Amanda February 4, 2015 at 9:46 pm #

    Lookin’ good! And once again that dog showing up as the thumbnail in Bloglovin’ totally made my day. Cracks me up every time! Just keeping doing that – oh, and the sewing too. πŸ˜‰

    • LLADYBIRD February 6, 2015 at 7:17 am #

      That dog makes me laugh every time I see it (or think about it!). Glad to know your find it just as entertaining, too πŸ™‚ haha!

  19. Alison February 4, 2015 at 11:08 pm #

    Would you ever do a series on common fit issues. You seen to be awesome at this.

    • LLADYBIRD February 6, 2015 at 7:19 am #

      To be honest – probably not. I’m not confident enough in my non-personal fit issues to instruct others (it’s one thing when you’re in a live class and you can test things out – quite another to broadcast it out on the internet, if that makes sense), plus, that’s a lot of work that I simply don’t have time for these days. But thank you! I’m really flattered that you think that’s something I’d be capable of instructing πŸ™‚

  20. LinB February 5, 2015 at 11:36 am #

    1. Beautiful shirt/blouse. I think you look best in saturated colors, and that blue is just lovely against your skin.

    2. I first remember wearing/sewing those tabbed sleeves in the mid-70s, when I was in high school. Very practical, am sure that is not the first time they were in style, wish they’d never go out of style. Even when you sew for yourself, you may perhaps desire to stay current style-wise. Me? I like to dress up in costume, so it bothers me little to look out-of-sync.

    3. I save buttons to re-use, too. When the branding on some of them bothers me too much, I just turn them over and sew them on bottom-side-up. Sometimes I do that with new buttons, too, when the back side looks better on a garment than the front side.

    • LLADYBIRD February 6, 2015 at 7:21 am #

      Wait, those tabbed sleeves have gone out of style EVER? Weird! I never would have guessed that – they seem so useful. I guess that shows that I don’t really follow styles either (I mean, if something comes “in” and I like it, I’ll follow that – but once shit goes “out,” I’ll keep wearing it if I damn well want to! Haha).

      That’s a good tip on flipping over the buttons! I considered that with this shirt, actually, but the wrong side definitely looked like it was the wrong side. Glad to know I’m not the only one who does that πŸ™‚

  21. Betsy February 5, 2015 at 12:00 pm #

    Looks beautiful and I personally love the sleeve tab details. I always feel way too serious in a blouse with long sleeves. Definitely rolling the sleeve for more casual look. Love the choice of fabric! I need to make one of these.

    • LLADYBIRD February 6, 2015 at 7:22 am #

      Thank you! Yes, you do need to make one. Best shirt pattern ever! Haha!~

  22. Dawn Taylor Jones February 6, 2015 at 8:11 am #

    Love the fabric. I’m on a shirt kick myself. Unfortunately, with the short amount of time that I have to sew lately, I’ve been working on the same shirt for a while now. I do have this pattern and I need to add it ot the list.

    Does this have a fold over buttonband and cuff? After taking Pam Howard’s Classic shirt class, I’ve been redrafting my favorite blouses so that they both have these. It’s a timesaver for me, and I think that it makes for a better finish.

    • LLADYBIRD February 6, 2015 at 11:27 am #

      The button band is a separate piece, as is the cuff (but the cuff does fold over, i.e., it’s not two pieces, if that makes sense). I like the separate buttonband as it allows me to play with directional prints and bias, but I agree that a fold over is definitely a timesaver!

  23. Jo February 7, 2015 at 12:15 pm #

    Love this shirt so much – the princess seam shaping, the floral print and your meticulous finish. Also I was convinced your buttons said “American Bagle” as was like “what?!” Derp.

    By the way I’m finally delurking after silently following your blog for 2-3 years. I pretty much love everything you make. Hi!

    • LLADYBIRD February 8, 2015 at 9:54 am #

      American Beagle! Ha! I WISH! That would be awesome haha!

      And hello! Glad to have ya here πŸ˜€

  24. Carolyn February 8, 2015 at 12:27 pm #

    Lauren that’s what happens when you sew 100% of your wardrobe – you start to get repeats of patterns. However, this is a very lovely repeat in a beautiful fabric!

    • LLADYBIRD February 10, 2015 at 7:12 am #

      I’m ok with that! This year, I’m taking your advice and working with TNT’s – less fitting work, more sewing! πŸ˜€

  25. Tomasa February 8, 2015 at 3:54 pm #

    I love the print and the colors. It fits you beautifully and it is made beautifully. Bravo!

  26. Caroline Brooks February 10, 2015 at 7:05 am #

    Lovely shirt! Did you ever have to adjust the pattern for smaller shoulders?

    As a Goldhawk Rd shopper it could be Liberty fabric. There is a shop which sells past seasons Liberty at a reduced price, but also has some Liberty-ish knock offs. They even have this season’s Liberty for less than the real store. And Tana Lawn from Liberty usually has no name on the selvedge and is printed right up to the edge.

    • LLADYBIRD February 10, 2015 at 7:15 am #

      I honestly didn’t even think about the adjustment until I’d already cut the shirt out, ah! I think the fit looks pretty good in the shoulders, but I’m going to keep an eye on it and see if it starts bothering me.

      Good to know about the Libertys on Goldhawk! Now I really wish I could remember which shop I bought this one from!

  27. Jae March 15, 2015 at 5:48 pm #

    This print and pattern are gorgeous! I made a long tunic dress shirt out of McCall 6124 and I liked it but it had some fitting issues (mainly shoulders). After some Googling of button down dress shirts for fitting ideas I saw all of the ones you’ve made with this Butterick pattern and I love the look of it so much better! The fit looks way more like what I initially had in mind.

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

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