Hey dudes! Real quick before I jump into tutorial-land this morning – New Vogue Sewing patterns are out! Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve had quite a few people ask me when I would be posting my review. Not gonna happen, guys – at least not for this set, and no, not because of anything to do with me+The McCall Pattern Company. Have you seen the new patterns? There’s really nothing to make fun of! Which is good, because it shows that Vogue is listening to our pleas, I guess, but no jokies for us this time around. The only pattern I see that I really don’t like at all is this Koos Van Den Akker monstrosity that calls itself V1441– but, again, it’s Koos Van Den Akker, which should explain everything. Kind of hard to poke fun at something that’s intentionally designed to look crazy, you know? 🙂 In the news of things I do like – there’s V9077, which is a dress I don’t completely understand, but I think I like it anyway. Aaaaand, that’s about all that warrants any mention from the new collection. Sorry if you were expecting more! Trust me, you don’t want to see a post of me trying to pull humor out of a humorless situation 🙂 Feel free to turn this into a debate on whether or not I’ve sold out to Vogue (the answer is no, but, I REALLY love a good conspiracy theory, and I’m sure some of y’all do too!)
Ok, so, onward to the tutorial!
I’ve had a few requests for this, so here ya go – my tutorial for attaching an elastic waistband to your leggings (or skirt, or whatever. I ain’t here to judge your love for elasticized comfort!). While the usual method of leaving a hole in the seam and feeding the elastic through is definitely non-brainer easy, I prefer this particular method as it doesn’t allow the elastic to twist at all – not while you’re feeding it through the hole (that ALWAYS happens to me, ugh!), and not while you’re wearing and washing them. It stays in place and that’s pretty awesome! Also bonus is that you don’t have a tiny hole to close up afterwards. Whoop whoop!
Anyway, I learned this method from Katie of Papercut Patterns, and it’s definitely my favorite way to elastic the shit out of my waistbands. It is my understanding that she updated that the Ooh La Leggings pattern has been updated to include this method, so this is mainly for those of us who have an older copy of the pattern and/or want to elasticize something else. It does require a little bit of finesse while sewing, but it ain’t nothing you can’t handle 😉 This is also a great method if you are using an elastic that is too wide and thus needs to be cut down – I started with 3″ wide elastic, but I needed 1″, so I just cut right down the middle (well, ish). Since the elastic is going to be attached to the fabric by machine, it’s ok to cut is as the stitches will prevent it from unraveling over time 🙂 Just make sure your elastic has a very tight weave – if it’s a loose weave, it’s best to leave it uncut as there ain’t nothing that’ll keep that shit from unraveling!
Start by cutting your elastic to the desired size (I prefer about 4″ of negative ease at my waist, but it’s a matter of personal preference!), including an additional 1″-2″ for overlap. Pin the elastic with the inch overlap so it makes a circle.
Sew down all four edges where the elastic overlaps, making sure it’s secure. Ideally, you’d use a zigzag stitch for this – but my machine was already threaded with the double needle, so I used a double needle. I have yet to have a problem with this stitch, so there’s that! I like to stitch over each area twice to be really sure that it’s secure – you don’t want your elastic coming apart after you’ve sewn it into your pants!
Divide the elastic into 4 equal sections, either by using a ruler or just folding it in half and half again. Mark each point with a pin, making sure one section is in the center of the part you just overlapped and sewed. If your pattern does not include notches for dividing the waist into 4 equal sections, you’ll want to do so now as well on your garment.
On the INSIDE of your garment, match the 4 elastic sections with the 4 pants sections, keeping the overlapped elastic at the center back. If you trimmed down the width of your elastic, it is a good idea to match this area to the raw edge of your fabric, so it will be sewn and enclosed later. You will notice that the elastic is not quite as long as the garment in each section – that’s ok, we will stretch to fit in the next step 🙂
Using a serger (or a sewing machine with a zigzag stitch), attach the elastic to the garment. Go slowly and focus on one section at a time, stretching as much as you need to to get the pieces to fit. If you are using a serger, be careful not to trim off too much of your elastic edge – if at all possible, try not to trim off any. Keeping your elastic one uniform width will help with accurate topstitching later.
Your garment should look like this – on the inside, attached at the top, elastic loose at the bottom.
Now fold the elastic to the inside one time, which will completely encase it with fabric. Pin into place if needed – I like to pin again at the 4 equal sections (this part doesn’t have to be exact, you can just eyeball it).
Using a twin needle or a zigzag stitch, topstitch the elastic into place along the previously sewn edge. Gently stretch the elastic in each section, the same way you did when first attaching it. I’ve found that it’s easiest if I hold both the front and back with my hands, and gently guide the fabric as I sew. Stop with the needle down as you finish each section, readjust, and start the next section. Backstitch at the end.
If you’re using a twin needle, you’ll need to topstitch from the right side – this is where keeping the elastic a uniform width is handy. I mark my machine with a post-it note (I’m not adorable enough to use Washi tape, which I see everyone else using haha) to keep everything aligned so I catch the edge of the elastic as well as sew a straight line, but you can also feel it through all the layers. If you are using a zigzag stitch, you can get away with sewing on the wrong side so you can keep an eye on the elastic – but do try to sew a straight line, otherwise, it’ll be real obvious haha.
And that’s it! Not too hard, huh? Like I said, I really love this method because it keeps the elastic from twisting – it stays in place foreeeever! Also, the overlap at the center back is a handy way to quickly tell front from back just by feeling it – which, I don’t know about you, but I don’t sew tags in my clothes, so that’s pretty freaking useful! Only downside is that you’ll really have a lot of work to do once the elastic eventually wears out, but I personally think it’s worth it, if only to prevent elastic twist!
Let me know if you have any questions! Or if you just want to discuss those new Vogue patterns. Maybe you see something ridiculous that I overlooked??
LLADYBIRD 
I love this technique! I’ve been doing it for about a year now and it is sooooooo easy and gives a very nice, professional finish.
this is Melanie – the Seeds of 3, for whatever reason your site wouldn’t let me log on 🙂
Perfect! I must save this!
OMG, I’ve been sewing elastic wrong every time. No wonder they tend to get all bunched & obnoxious, and are terrible to sew.
I’d love to also get some tips on measuring the amount of elastic you need if you ever get a chance. I know most patterns tell you what it should measure, but I can never seem to get the ratio right for different widths of elastic for my own projects, everything ends up to tight or to loose. 3/4th? 2/3rds the original width?
My rule of thumb when using knit elastic is to subtract 4 to 6 inches from the measured waist for the finished cut length of the elastic. Six inches less gives you a snug fit, four inches a looser fit.
If it’s for a waistband, I think it’s entirely a matter of personal preference. There’s not really a hard and fast rule – it depends on the width and strength of the elastic, not to mention comfort levels! For me, 1″ wide elastic at my waist feels good at 4″ less my waist measurement. I’d say just try it on until it feels right, then record the measurement so you can keep an eye on the average 🙂
Definitely need to change my elastic installation to this.
Now COME ON!! Seriously, you don’t think you could do a look-alike of V1442 with a prettier beach towel and a diaper pin? I hope V9089 is listed in Maternity, and is 9084 a peplum after a dope smoking session? A ruffle gone wrong? A skirt with a cooch peep? God forbid some misguided young thing forgets her leggings!
Ha!! That’s about what I was thinking! 😉
SKIRT WITH A COOCH PEEP IT IS!!!
lolz maybe you should start writing my Vogue posts 😉 haha!
That is a wicked technique. Thank you for sharing it. I probably would never have stumbled across it by myself (because, it just works that way).
Your Koos Van Den Akker reviews have made me feel like I need to do a Make-It-Look-Cool Challenge. I quite like the crazy, but then I have a soft spot for Issey Miyake and Dogstar (Brisbane-based designer of Japanese origin; she does some wild stuff, and I ❤ it!). But not yet.
First I have an essay to write.
And then I have some shorts to finish. And a Bombshell. And some jeans. And…well, you get the idea.
I would be all for a Make-It-Look-Cool Challenge! I wish someone would take those crazy patterns and prove me wrong. I like being proven wrong.
I agree about these new Vogue patterns–style and wearability! Love the #9096 jacket, although I’d change that left-side hem corner to a curve also or extend the entire left side so that corner doesn’t show–that corner just draws attention to itself. Same issue for #9087–so many fabric combinations possible, but the back hem would look better without that asymmetrical flap. The #9075 jumpsuit would be great in a lightweight dark denim, as they mention on their blog. Thank you, Vogue!
Very useful! thank you
OMG THIS IS GENIUS! THANK YOU!
I might have to give this a try the next time I work with an elastic waistband! I was actually really disappointed with the new Vogue patterns. I yawned A LOT when I was looking at them. B.O.R.I.N.G. The only one I am interested in the Ralph Rucci pattern. It’s at least got some interesting shape/detailing. I’m not sure I like the new direction Vogue/McCall’s is taking. I’d rather see a little risk taking over recycling the same patterns and designs. I really feel like a company undermines the intelligence of its customer when they repackage a product and try to sell it as something new or different That’s a huge deal breaker for me.
Honestly, I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re playing it safe due to everyone bemoaning how much they hated all the ~crazy designs. I don’t see anything special with this batch, but I also don’t really see anything that makes me want to tear my eyes out, either. Although I do agree that a few of the designs look suspiciously similar to past seasons… I’m hoping that the instructions include a little something extra (as tends to be the case with at least the simple Vogue Designer patterns).
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you… I just got a serger for Christmas and didn’t think about using it for this!
You’re so welcome! Best use of a serger in my opinion haha! 😛
cool tutorial. And Vogue just went on sale this weekend (website and at JoAnns).
Good to know!
I love this technique. The only thing I do different is that I butt the cut ends of the elastic instead of overlapping them and zig zag it over a scrap of of thin fabric. Search for Nancy Zieman’s Absolute Easiest Way of to Sew Elastic. Love your blog. Your sewing is awesome.
I’ve tried doing that before, but I’ve found that my elastic can unravel and eventually separate if I’m not careful to tack it down enough. Anyway, I like the little lump it creates when overlapped, mostly so I can figure out which side is the back of my leggings 🙂 haha
I love the elastic tutorial! Thanks loads for that! I’m always trying to sort out how to get the elastic to work without the twisty business.
Vogue – I was really surprised by their release this time. So…normal and wearable! 🙂 And cute for the most part. V9077 confused me as well. Why in heck put the darts on the OUTSIDE of the dress? It’s on my list to sew with some cute contrasting fabrics, but with the darts done on the inside.
I’m not a fan of the outside darts, but maybe they consider it to add some textural interest? Would love to see it in person because it could possibly look cool (maybe… trying to be nice here! Haha!)
Selling out like a Reel Big Fish song, I see.
Always & forever ♥
Bear in mind, y’all, that if the amount of fabric to be gathered is “plenty plenty plenty,” you won’t be able to stretch the elastic far enough to stitch it down around the edge. Sometimes you just have to give in and make an old-fashioned casing and insert the elastic. Also, if you need more fabric/elastic in the back or in the front (all bodies are different!) you may find that dividing into quarters does not work quite so well. A few minor adjustments can solve that pesky problem.
I agree with LinB and wrote a post this week about how quartering results in too much bunching in the back if the distance across your back waist is shorter than the distance across your front waist. In that case you need to try the elastic on and mark on the elastic where the side seams are with chalk so that when applied, it works for your body and is not bunchy.
Also if you don’t want your serger to cut while you serge, on your Imagine there is a knob on the front–if you turn it to the LOCK setting it locks your serger knife so it doesn’t cut. It is super easy to lock and unlock the knife–just turn the knob. I have the Enlighten and LOVE this feature–in your pix it looks like you have that feature too.
You’re right – I can turn off the knife on my Imagine. I usually just try to serge without cutting, but that’s a good point 🙂
As someone with a uhmm, full sized booty, I agree. I always just make a casing and try them on. Once the elastic is well distributed I stitch in the ditch at side seams and that secures it!
ooooh, such a good tip! Don’t knw why I didn’t think of that. Thank you!
Both very good points! Thank you so much for your input 🙂
great tutorial!
Pay with Polka Dots
I love to sew elastic in this way. Glad to finally see a tutorial on this one!
Yeah , Vogue is a little better now, but just a little… They just seem really out of touch with fashion. McCall’s patterns are more stylish. Who on earth will make that Marcy Tilton maternity top I wonder?
Obviously you’ve never met a Marcy Tilton Fanatic 😛
I love this method. It’s done this way on a lot for RTW so it’s totally legit. I’ve been disengaging my serger blade to prevent nicking the edge.. I’m not sure this the best method, but it’s been working for me so far.
I am so very dissapointed in the vogue offerings this time around. There is only one pattern I’m interested in…V1440, because Donna Karan leggings.
I know I can disengage my serer blade, but idk I like to live on the edge haha. Might work for people who are a little less precise, though!
And, ooh, I think it’s like a fringe-less version of that jacket in the pattern!
This is a great tutorial! The finish product looks so much more professional I think. I really like V9077, but that red floral line drawing–all I can see is a big black arrow pointing to her face, haha!
hahah welll now that’s all I can see too!
Sell out! 🙂 That V1441 has so many Technicolor Dream Coat/Coat of many colors jokes swirling around it. I’m imagining the jokes swarming the cost like those blue flies that like corpses.
I’ve found a fantastic source of upcycle elastic in my husband’s underwear drawer. The body of the brief always wears out before the waistband. A little seam ripping and I’ve got a waist length of soft plush sided elastic for pajama pants, etc. All the RTW jammie pants that come my way get jockey short waistband to replace those useless draw strings. I do it similarly to this tutorial, but with the plushy side of the elastic toward me. (Like a bra band.) If your guy wears boxers, this might not work. We wives of tighty-whitey town are all set.
Why you no post under my name, WordPress? Why? 😦
Argh I’m so jealous of your upcycled elastic stash! Landon’s stuff tends to do the opposite – elastic blows out before the rest of it. Such a good tip on replacing the drawstring with that. I hate drawstrings on my pajama pants, so useless.
This is the method they used on the Great British Sewing Bee episode I was watching the other day. Can’t wait to try it!
I do my elastic basically the same, except I start from the right side of the fabric, then fold it in – just means there’s no chance of the white elastic peeking out from the bottom of the waistband as you get a bit of self-fabric wrapping itself around that edge (and it only uses up about 5-10mm of fabric)
Another way of completing the last step is to turn the elastic over and then stick vertically in the ditch at the side seams and front and back seams this creates a really nice finish on the outside , a bit more elegant than just a normal elastic waistband
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
Ok, I will chime in that this is a great technique for making an elastic waistband with knits. Someone commented above about McCalls/Vogue patterns repackaging existing designs – the same is true for this technique. I learned it 40 years ago (sans the serger and double needle) at our local Stretch-n-Sew shop when my mom signed me up for a class. I made to a cool pair of polyester knit plaid pants.
I know! Isn’t it sweet that a whole new generation of stitchers is “discovering” a variety of techniques to accomplish their tasks? Although some of them think that they are inventing these techniques … Elizabeth Zimmerman is credited for “inventing” a wide range of knitting techniques, yet she herself remained skeptical that she was the first human ever to think of them. She called her process “unventing.” I think that “unventing” applies to sewing, too.
Oh, I’m not surprised this is a recycled technique. I’ve seen it in lots of RTW that I’ve disassembled. I want to see those polyester plaid pants, though!
That’s exactly how I did the elastic for my self-drafted lounging pants over the holidays. It makes for an awesome smooth stable finish for the waistband.
This is so helpful thanks, and makes complete sense. I can stop avoiding elasticated waisted patterns now. I’ve been wanting to attemp pj bottoms in particular for a while, but the dreaded, twisted waistband has put me off. 🙂
Twisty elastic is the worst!
I’m with you on the Vogues. God damn, I want me a pair of culottes now.
Fab tutorial. 🙂 Do you have any tips for using a twin needle? Mine is either so tight it creates a pin tuck or is too loose and comes undone in the wash.
It took me a lot of experimenting to get it right. Here’s what I do.
1. Adjust the bobbin tension, not the needle. I have a machine that uses a bobbin case. I bought a second one, marked it with nail polish, and adjusted the little screw so that the stretch thread pulled through more easily.
2. Maxilock Stretch thread instead of wooly nylon. They have it at Wawak and it comes on a full size cone. (Better deal!) It seems to be a little smoother and has just the right amount of give.
3. A Ball Point Twin needle. (Also at Wawak and on Amazon.) JoAnns only has an all purpose twin needle. The AP needle skips stitches on my knits like crazy. One skipped stitch and the whole hem unravels.
4. Steam a Seam. Just that little bit of fusible helps the stitching lay flat. Plus, no needles while stitching!
Again with the anonymity? What the what?
Thanks! I’ll give those tips a try 🙂
The tips below are great – the one thing I’d add is, use a walking foot if you have one. I’ve found that helps with keeping everything smooth and evenly fed through the machine.
Oh my gosh, thankyou… I’m not up to sewing my own clothes yet, but this will be great for the kids stuff. They outgrow before anything wears out anyway 🙂
Nice tutorial! Who says you are locked into doing the Vogue review every time, meh. Keep doing your own thing Lauren!
I love this method! You can also attach it using this method from the outside of a skirt and flip it in as a facing.
This is a great method and makes it so much easier although I really have to work on my topstitching. I was wondering if you have any tips for when you want to insert elastic just in the back of a waistband? I have been trying to figure this out for a few months now and failing failing failing!
I’d also be interested in this tip, like when you want to make PJ bottoms and put ties at the front and elastic at the back
There’s a tutorial on my blog from a couple months ago in case you missed it 🙂
I’m not sure how one would add elastic to the back with nothing in the front (I mean, I’m pretty sure I could figure it out, but my brain is a little frazzled right now haha), but if you want ties in the front, I wrote a small tutorial on how to do just that 🙂
I think that you’re just burnt out on bashing Vogue, which isn’t the same as selling out. There’s only one that I could see you (or me) making. Certainly not the paper plate jacket. (I didn’t come up with that name, someone else on the ‘net said that.)
Paper Plate Jacket is the perfect name for it haha
That looks awesome. I have a pair of PJ pants that I made the other way that are dying for an update – the elastic is too skinny and the pants are too baggy and… you get the picture 😛 I will definitely be using this.
That is pretty much the way I have inserted elastic into my self-drafted skirts and my hub’s boxers. WAY easier!
Thanks for making this tutorial! Can’t wait to try out your technique 🙂
This is fantastic. I’ll have to try this out on my next pair of leggings!
http://www.thegeekyseamstress.com
Genius! Twisted elastic waistbands are the worst.
I only like the culottes jumpsuit pattern. Everything else looks recycled from past offerings. I do wish Vogue would release some fresh designs but then I don’t believe under 35 are their target market. Maybe everything has already been designed and there is no scope for fresh and new. Geez that’s depressing… I think the way forward is to perhaps draft from scratch…
This is my favourite way of doing a waistband. I love how there’s not lots of extra volume at the waist with this. It lies flat and looks super neat. I have used it for some skirts recently: http://www.gingerthreads.co.za/2014/12/finished-black-white-grey-knit-skirt.html
Have you used this technique on wovens? I’m thinking wishfully, as I seriously doubt it would work on the heavy bottomweights that I make my chef husband’s work pants out of, but that damn elastic waist keeps me from sewing him new pants even though he is in tatters. He could buy his own pants but he loves mine so much more, which is sweet I guess…
I don’t see why it wouldn’t work on wovens – you’re just stretching the elastic, not the fabric, so it should work for either.
I haven’t looked at the new Vogue patterns yet but will soon. Nothing to add but I do appreciate the tut on sewing in waistbands. I’ve always found myself cursing quite a bit when it comes to threading the darned elastic through the waistband. I always end up twisting it or losing the end or some such crap.
Gran tutorial !!!! Eres un genio vinilos decorativos
NOBODY HAS ANYTHING TO SAY ABOUT V1438??!!
Hey Lauren, just wanted to let you know I used your tutorial today aaaaaand…… GOLD! Thanks so much for sharing 😀
Yay! So happy that it worked for you 😀
Is this method only for knit fabric? It seems the searches I do show this method for knits only & woven fabrics require the casing method.
I don’t see why you couldn’t use it for woven! It might require a bit more manhandling to get everything evenly dispersed, but it should work on a woven as well.
How would I do this when sewing a jumpsuit?
I’m not sure; you’d need to check your pattern instructions for how to do that 🙂
I’m converting to this method.
Well thank you for making it so perfectly clear 😃 I have struggled with this one procedure forever (it seems). I was able to fix several pair of leggings!!