Completed: The Bruyère Top

29 Dec

Now that’s one plaid flannel top that definitely doesn’t look like something a man would wear, amirite.

Deer & Doe Bruyere

This is the Bruyère top from Deer & Doe. I’ve actually had this pattern for quite a while – I bought it immediately after it’s release. I LOVE the cute and feminine twist it gives to a plain button down, and I knew it’d be beautiful in a plaid flannel. I’ve been sitting on it for this long because I haven’t been able to find the right plaid flannel – either the plaid was unbalanced (get out of my nightmare), or the colors were ugly, or the flannel was shitty. Or maybe a combination of the three. Either way, no Bruyère for me 😦

Deer & Doe Bruyere

This plaid flannel actually came from the same place that the pattern did – aaaaaall the way from Paris, France! Yup! It was the first piece of fabric I bought during my shopping spree, from Les étoffes du Sentier. The shop had a 3 meter minimum, but it was only 5€ a meter and I figured 3 is a safe number for a button up, so I went with it. It’s a nice soft cotton plaid flannel and I like how the colors are so un-girly, especially with this pattern. And, bonus – even after plaid-matching, I have leftovers to make something else with! Yes!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

First, though, check out those matched side seams! Ahhh yeah!!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

And the other side!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

And the back!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

Hi!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

Seriously, though, I’m pretty happy with how this turned out (if you couldn’t tell 😛 ). I cut the size 34, and the only fitting change I made was to remove a little bit of length from the peplum and sleeves, because I am so short. Other than that, it fits pretty well! I’m surprised at much much I like the collar – I was afraid it would look flat and dumb, but the flannel gives it some lovely body.

For cutting the plaid, I cut on the single layer and cut the waistbands, cuffs, placket and back yoke on the bias. Since the bias tends to stretch, I also cut my second yoke on the straight grain, as well as a second set of waistbands. Further, I interfaced my waistbands (to be really sure they don’t stretch out), as well as the cuffs, collar, and placket. I’m not sure why these aren’t included in the instructions, but my guess is to keep the overall look of the shirt very soft and unstructured. Which is fine, but, I do think anything that has a button will need a little extra help from interfacing. I’d definitely make some test button holes before you commit, at any rate!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

I spent a really long time trying to decide how to order the construction steps for this. The instructions are fine as they are – the process for attaching the placket/collar/facing is very clever (and clean!) and it works. However, I’m a diehard who wanted flat felled seams. In addition – I wasn’t 100% on the fit of the side seams, and I wanted to sew that last so I could tweak it after attaching the placket (when sewing flat felled shirt seams, once generally attaches the sleeves before sewing the side seams. Sewing a flat felled seam in the round just sounds like a painful thing I don’t want to do). Because of how the shirt is assembled per the instructions, you can’t really switch them out – you have to have the hem sewn to add the placket, but the side seams need to be sewn to add the hem. I know this sounds really vague and probably doesn’t make sense, but if you look at the instructions for this shirt vs ones for, say, the Negroni, it will. Anyway, this is what I ended up doing:
– I left the side seams open and sewed about 2″ of the shirt hem by the placket
– Followed the instructions for adding the collar, placket and facing
– Attached the sleeves with flat-felled seams
– Sewed the side seams with flat-felled seams
– Finished the remainder of the hem

That worked out great! My shirt is finished with flat-felled seams and it looks beaaaaaauuuutiful on the inside as well as the out 😀

Deer & Doe Bruyere

What else? Well, I added PEARL SNAPS. God, I love those things – nothing like being able to Hulk out of our clothes at the end of the day amirite. I feel like the very top needs a pearl snap (it’s not marked on the pattern), however, I couldn’t get the prongs through all the layers so no pearl snap there!

Deer & Doe Bruyere

Here’s the inside. I finished the edge of my facing with pinking shears – I think anything else would show a ridge on the right side. Of course, I probably should have first sewed a line of stitching before pinking, because it’s already fraying like crazy, but whatev.

Deer & Doe Bruyere

Deer & Doe Bruyere

I guess that’s it! Glad I finally got this finished – plaid flannel shirt of my dreamssss ♥

Deer & Doe Bruyere

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! Just a couple days left until the end of the year – aiee!

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84 Responses to “Completed: The Bruyère Top”

  1. lefilalagratte December 29, 2014 at 7:18 am #

    Nice fabric ! And from what I can see it is beautifully sewn ! Thanks for indicating the different steps you followed when assembling the shirt !

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:14 pm #

      Thank you! I always like to note when I change the construction steps – if anything, it helps me next time I make the pattern 😛 haha!

  2. Anna December 29, 2014 at 7:30 am #

    That’s cute — and I don’t usually care that much for plaid shirts (I don’t hate ’em or anything, I’m just indifferent to them). I like how it resembles a shirtwaist dress but without looking like a tunic. I’ve seen that top button problem with pearl snaps before, a lot of shirts I see with them just add a regular button right at the top there, so maybe you could do that.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:13 pm #

      I actually considered adding a regular button to the top, but I wasn’t sure if it would look out of place or not. That’s good to know that you’ve seen it on other shirts!

  3. brianne December 29, 2014 at 7:50 am #

    You couldn’t have had better timing. I have flannel and Ms. Bruyere sitting on my table right now. I will be mimicing…who are we kidding…I will be stealing your construction ideas.

    Thanks for the tips!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:13 pm #

      Awesome! Hope you find them helpful 😀

  4. Sewing Tidbits December 29, 2014 at 8:12 am #

    Nice shirt and amazing plaid matching! Interesting comments on construction! I just finished a linen shirt from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s book and they have you sew the hem before the flat-felled side seams. It requires different SA on front and back and pre-pressing the wider SA in half. It was weird but it worked!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:16 pm #

      Ooh, that sounds really interesting – I’ll have to check it out. I normally like to sew my hem after the seams are finished (so it’s a continuous unbroken seam along the bottom), but now you’ve got my curiosity 🙂

  5. mertxelasierra December 29, 2014 at 8:27 am #

    Oh, Lauren, it’s perfect! Plaid, pattern, fit and execution, well done! I also need to have those self encased flat seams on my plaid shirts, and i’ll definetly copy those pearl snaps on my next shirt, they are adorable.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:16 pm #

      Yes! Pearl snaps make everything adorable 😀

  6. J. December 29, 2014 at 8:45 am #

    That shirt is EPIC. Plaid helps this pattern strike the perfect balance between masculine & feminine detailing, I love it a lot!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:18 pm #

      Thank you! Love me some plaid 😀

  7. nycbookwriter December 29, 2014 at 9:04 am #

    I have some silk from Amsterdam that, when the pattern came out, I was like “that’s what that silk wants to be!” But that is a spring make, as it is too cold now for a think silk blouse. 😉 And . . . I have some blue and gray flannel that wants to be this shirt too.

    I really like this one too. Really, really like it!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:19 pm #

      Oooh, a silk version of this would be lovely!!

  8. ThreadTime December 29, 2014 at 9:06 am #

    This is a beautiful blouse. Love the plaid, but love the style even more. Beautiful job, as always.
    Ramona

  9. Michelle December 29, 2014 at 9:09 am #

    This looks great, Lauren. I bought this pattern the day it was released too. And, it’s sitting at the top of my pile of things to do. Liz and I even bought fabric specifically for this project when we were in NY during the fall. I’ll eventually get caught up with myself and sew it. I’m not sure how I feel about that facing piece… is there utility to it? Could it be eliminated? I guess I’ll find out when I get around to sewing!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:23 pm #

      I believe the main benefit of the facing is to finish the collar/neckline area (since there isn’t a collar stand; it’s just a flat collar). You could probably eliminate it with some finagling – which was something I considered, then I decided I couldn’t wrap my head around it (at least not for the first version of this pattern!). That being said, the facing is pretty secured down if that’s a concern to you – it’s sewn to the neckline, arm holes, and placket. No chance of it poking out like a typical facing does !

  10. Sierra Rose December 29, 2014 at 9:10 am #

    Wow, great job!

    Pay with Polka Dots

  11. Kelly December 29, 2014 at 10:00 am #

    Gorgeous, I love it! That flannel was so soft!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:24 pm #

      It is! I’m so glad I found it (and stuck around long enough to actually get someone to cut yardage for me hahahaha) 😀

  12. Shirley December 29, 2014 at 10:15 am #

    Love this top! Nothing like a nice and warm flannel shirt but with incredible style!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:25 pm #

      It’s SO warm and cozy, too! Perfect for this weather 😀

  13. Adina December 29, 2014 at 11:31 am #

    Beautiful shirt and the bias pieces are perfect. Wow!

  14. Lisa | Paprika Pat. (@paprikapatterns) December 29, 2014 at 11:34 am #

    Great shirt! I do usually like the men’s shirt vibe though, so I’ll stick to Archers. That fabric is just perfect, how come I missed it at Les Etoffes?!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:27 pm #

      Aw! It was upstairs, past the creepy staircases and tiny random rooms. They had a few bolts up there, but I had to chase someone down to get the yardage cut. You should go back and get some!!

  15. Kelly December 29, 2014 at 11:40 am #

    While I’ve admired this pattern on others I never thought it would work for me… until now! I love the tougher fabric with this sweet design!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:28 pm #

      Yay! I’m glad you like it 😀

  16. Tamara December 29, 2014 at 11:48 am #

    Beautiful workmanship. Very flattering on you.

  17. June December 29, 2014 at 12:01 pm #

    Hulk out, ha ha! Very lovely top, yay on matching plaids!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:30 pm #

      Ha, it’s the best part of wearing pearl snaps 😉 lol

  18. Suzie December 29, 2014 at 12:23 pm #

    Looks perfect! I´m starting to feel like a stalker now, this is about the 6th thing you made in the last few months that I was planning on making, too. For each thing I already had the pattern or the fabric here 🙂 I love your shirt, it fits you so well!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:32 pm #

      Hey, it’s not stalker-y – just surprise twinning! haha! 🙂

  19. Gigi C December 29, 2014 at 12:55 pm #

    You are such a bad ass! I love that top and now I am going to have to deal with the French instructions and try to make it to. Its a girly archer…in love with it!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:34 pm #

      Ah, no, the pattern comes with English instructions! You don’t even need French to make this bitch! haha! 😀

  20. tworandomwords December 29, 2014 at 1:04 pm #

    It’s gorgeous! I still haven’t been able to find a good flannel for my own plaid shirt (which I’ve wanted ever since I made my husband one, then tried his on and realised how comfortable it was). Fingers crossed The Fabric Store will have some when we get closer to winter.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:36 pm #

      Good flannel is hard to find, but it’s SO worth it when you do! Good luck with your flannel shopping:D

  21. Aubrey December 29, 2014 at 1:29 pm #

    I love the combo of masculine/feminine in this top. I also love how the top of your blog is snowing. 🙂

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:37 pm #

      It always snows in December, it makes me so happy 😀

  22. jessyka December 29, 2014 at 4:03 pm #

    I love your projects .. The plaid top look so cute on you and the shape so flattering. You starting to give me the plaid ich as well.. 😀 I love your site btw!!!! You really are inspiring me to sew again and really start right the first time and not rush my projects but take time for the small details.

    I look forward to reading your new post everyday. I always check at least 3 times a day .. 😀

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:38 pm #

      Aw, thank you so much! I’m glad you like my blog 😀

  23. Freya December 29, 2014 at 4:22 pm #

    I knew this would be gorgeous in a plaid- I love it! I have this patten in my queue for the new year, and I’ve a plaid and a gorgeous printed cotton to choose between. I can’t wait!
    x

  24. lucy December 29, 2014 at 4:56 pm #

    Such a cute top. I love the colors in the fabric and btw love the hair.

  25. Sylvie December 29, 2014 at 5:08 pm #

    Ohhhhh Lauren this is lovely!!! I just started tracing the pattern for mine- finally! I have the most luscious grey polka dot shirting from Blackbird Fabrics and once it’s finished I will probably want to take it to bed. Not to sleep. ❤

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:43 pm #

      ahahaha, yesss, get it girl 😉

  26. Ines December 29, 2014 at 5:39 pm #

    Wow, I love it!!! It fits you so well!! It’s perfection!!! I might have to buy it just ‘cuz I am a little thing like you and I have the most impossible time finding or fixing to get the torso/shoulder and all that mess up there to fit well. Lovely shirt, congrats on a (as usual for you) beautifully sewn garment.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:45 pm #

      Thank you! I’m pretty pleased with how it fit out of the envelope – the proportions were just right for me 🙂

  27. Jenny December 29, 2014 at 5:52 pm #

    This is just soooo cute! I need to get this pattern. Love that you chose to do it in flannel, absolute perfect match.

  28. Rochelle New December 29, 2014 at 6:45 pm #

    Yaaaasssssssss! I love this. I bought this pattern a few months ago, but I too have been on a never ending quest to find just the right plaid for it. I’m glad to hear the pattern is worth the wait. It sure looks UH-DORABLE ❤

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:48 pm #

      Oh yeah, it’s totally worth the wait! Finding the right plaid, though – that’s a whole adventure in itself! But it’ll be worth it:)

  29. Trice December 29, 2014 at 6:58 pm #

    Lauren, this shirt looks amazing and amazing on you. Looks cozy too.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:48 pm #

      Thank you! It’s super cozy, I love it 🙂

  30. thenerdyseamstress December 30, 2014 at 1:24 am #

    You are the master at matching plaid! One day, just one day I’ll give it a go! I love this Bruyere! This is just perfect the pattern and fabric is from France! It’s stinkin’ adorable. As much as I love how it looks from the outside, I LOVE the inside. It’s so clean and pretty!

    I just *might* be tempted to buy it, but I’m still on the fence just as when this first came out. I love a good button down, and I love this version because it is different, but, and it’s a big one, I’m not sure if it’s me. I’ll have to think about it. May be I’ll make them and make leggings and bam! I’ll have a complete outfit.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:52 pm #

      I was on the fence too when this pattern came out (my fence time only lasted about 2 hours though, haha!), because it’s definitely the kind of top you can pretty much only wear with leggings or really tight pants (I imagine anything else – shorts, skirt, flares, etc – would just look too unbalanced with the skirt part), but I do really like how different it is from other patterns available, which is why I ended up buying it. It’s nice for when you want to feel like you look put together, but want to be comfy in leggings and a button down 🙂 I do like that about it!

      And yesss for the inside being clean and pretty! That’s my favorite part of the top 😀

      • thenerdyseamstress January 2, 2015 at 8:51 pm #

        Before I read your reply, I was thinking of how comfy it would be in general and for traveling. Even then, I still had my reservations. I love the bonus factor of looking pulled together. So, I think you just convinced me to buy the pattern! 🙂 Now I need to get my tooshy together and make some leggings. I have the ooh la leggings pattern.

        • LLADYBIRD January 4, 2015 at 4:42 pm #

          Yay!! The Ooh La Leggings are my favorite pattern; make them in a ponte and they basically resemble pants (with all the comfort we love from leggings :3)

  31. BeckyLeeSews December 30, 2014 at 5:22 am #

    Lauren, that shirt is absolutely lovely and so professional looking. You did an amazing job! You matched the plaid up perfectly…I mean, it’s something I’d be proud to wear too. That pattern is too cute!

  32. Margo December 30, 2014 at 5:49 am #

    Gorgeous and I too love a pearl snap! I have a few RTW button downs with them… I laughed when I read ‘Hulk out of our clothes ‘ !! I do that

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:53 pm #

      Hahaha because it’s FUN, right? Ahh, pearl snaps are so good hahaha

  33. Kayse December 30, 2014 at 8:04 am #

    This top is stunning!! Great work!! I love the snaps.

  34. qplourde December 30, 2014 at 11:26 am #

    Hmmm..I just bought some plaid flannel, so this gives me some inspiration! I have been seeing plaid shirts come back in fashion recently and this one look fabulous! I really enjoyed your tutorial on how to match the plaid – very good advice.

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:56 pm #

      Thank you! I’m glad you found the tutorial helpful 🙂 I love matching plaid haha

  35. gingermakes December 30, 2014 at 11:52 am #

    I love these colors! What a great shirt!

  36. Caren Eckert Martin December 30, 2014 at 2:53 pm #

    Super cute!

  37. CarmencitaB December 31, 2014 at 5:28 am #

    As I was saying, this is a superior make. In fact, this is the best Bruyère I’ve seen and it almost makes me want to make one, as if I needed more stuff to make. Happy New Year! See you soon!

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:58 pm #

      Thank you so much, Carmen! I’m really happy with how it turned out – the inside is so clean and pretty 🙂 And yesss, you always need more stuff to make 🙂 haha!

  38. Brynn December 31, 2014 at 3:20 pm #

    Nice! Are those OohLaa Leggings?

    • LLADYBIRD December 31, 2014 at 4:59 pm #

      They are! I made them out of ponte so they’re like legging-pants 🙂

      • brynnlorre January 2, 2015 at 1:45 pm #

        Thanks! I’m going to attempt some soon…

  39. shesewsswell January 1, 2015 at 8:43 pm #

    I literally just returned from my first trip to Paris. Last day of my trip, among a hundred other things… including champagne and chocolate at sunset, on the steps in the garden just below Le Sacre Coeur… First stop of the day was my first phone call in French, a language I DO NOT speak, to Brin de Cousette, Amandine was so helpful, I was on a mission to find this pattern, feel fabric, and save on shipping!!! On the plane home today, I was dreaming of making it in plaid with the plaid cut on the bias, like I did with my Belledone Dress, and here!!! You did it!!!! Oh yeah, 2015 is gonna be a good year. Bonne Année!! Happy Sewing!!!!

  40. Kim January 3, 2015 at 10:40 am #

    Beautiful top! Love the fabric used in this way! Can I just ask how you put in the back of your snaps? I have the Dritz pliers, but I find that they make the back of my snaps almost wrinkled :S I just can’t find what I’m doing wrong..

    • LLADYBIRD January 4, 2015 at 4:41 pm #

      Funny, I tried the Dritz pliers too and they just don’t work for me (like I can’t even get the snap in at all, despite following the instructions haha). I actually just used a hammer to set these in. I have a vintage snap setter from my flea market, which is what I used for this… it’s just a long metal rod thing with a larger end, serves about the same purpose as a spool of thread (which is what I used before, but I like this setter because it keeps the pearl part from cracking). You still get to use a hammer, which is awesomeeee 😀

      • Kim January 11, 2015 at 6:51 am #

        Ooh I’m glad it isn’t just me! Next time I’m going to google it first and then get out my hammer 🙂

  41. monkeysocks March 25, 2016 at 7:16 pm #

    I love this shirt! It’s the perfect mix of fitted and comfy looking! `I was considering making a Bruyere and during my internet spying this was the one that convinced me! I totally don’t have the skills for pattern matching as well though! I really wanted snaps too but was in too much of a hurry to finish mine to wait! Well done lady!

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