V1419 Sewalong: My Muslin

6 Oct

Good morning, V1419 Sewalongers – and Happy Muslin Day! Yes, today is all about the muslin – a very important part of coat construction (some of y’all make refer to it as a toile, same difference!). After all, you don’t want to spend all this time and money making a coat that doesn’t fit once it’s finished… do you? (if the answer to that is no, then, um… do you want to share some of your spare time and money with?? haha!)

Meg is handling All Things Muslin over at The McCall Pattern Company blog, so check out her post for advice and tips. Me, I’m just here to be your personal cheerleader this week – as well as share my muslin! Wanna see?

V1419 Muslin

V1419 Muslin

V1419 Muslin

V1419 Muslin

V1419 Muslin

V1419 Muslin

Some notes & thoughts:
– I started with the size 8, which seems to fit pretty well right out of the envelope! The small bit of pulling you see under the bust is not noticeable in real life (and, god, these pictures are awful. I took them three times and these are the best you’re gonna get. Something about shooting a *white* muslin is just… ugh. And yes, I even tried against a not-white background. No dice, looked worse. Deal with this.), and some of the wrinkles were actually pressed into the muslin. I think that, overall, this looks good, and I will be making no further adjustments other than shortening the length and the sleeves. Thoughts?
– Notice when I said I made a size 8? That’s at least 1-2 sizes bigger than what I usually cut in Vogue patterns – this lady runs a little snug! For what it’s worth, my body measurements correspond very closely to the size measurements for the 8 (I’m about 1/2″ bigger all around). If you’re hung up on sizing, I suggest start with the size that works for your measurements and make a mock to see what direction to take the fitting. I know this goes against everything I’ve ever told y’all about using the finished measurements to start, but maybe Vogue has been hearing our cries about the extra ease? 🙂
– I used a medium weight muslin to make this mock-up, and it’s a bit more drapey than the fabric that I chose. This is fine, as I’ve tried on the original and I like the way the dramatic shape looks on me – but if you’re still debating whether or not to use a drapey fabric, try making the muslin with a fabric that has a similar hand to get a feel for how you like it.
– When trying on your muslin, make sure you are wearing the same types of clothing you plan on wearing with the finished coat – for me, that’s a long sleeve tshirt and jeans. If you try this on with a lightweight tank top, for example, the fit will be totally different (and, um, might not work with a big sweater!). Speaking of big sweaters – this style of coat is NOT the thing to wear with your giant chunky knit warmest wool pullover. It’s supposed to be very sleek and fitted – the type of fabulous coat that you would wear over a cocktail dress. If you have your heart set on making this an every day winter coat to wear over multiple layers, you may want to consider sizing up to accommodate the extra bulk.
– Need to make some adjustments? Not a big deal! While this pattern does not have traditional style lines, it *does* mark the bust apex and waistline, so that will give you a general idea where to add your adjustments. Due to the time restraints we have for this sewalong, we will not be covering flat pattern adjustments. A few people have asked whether or not this particular pattern can handle a FBA (full bust adjustment) – and the answer is yes! You’ll need to first remove the lower skirt portion of the coat, as well as the sleeves, make your FBA (I like to use the method explained in Fit for Real People)… then rotate out the dart you create to retain the original lines of the pattern, and reattach the sleeves and skirt (smoothing and blending your lines as needed). Don’t know how to rotate out a dart? Here are some links that you may find useful: The Mahogany Stylist, Vicki Kate Makes, The Sewaholic Blog (with extra links!). Alternately, there are zillions of tutorials online of how to do a FBA/rotate a dart – just Google and pick your favorite!
– For length adjustments – you can actually just hack it right off the bottom of the sleeve/length. Which is exactly what I plan on doing, fyi.
– If you’re one size in your bust and another at the waist, you can grade the sizes together to get a better fit. There’s a brief write-up on how to do this here on my blog, but essientally you’re just drawing a line to connect size x to size y to seamlessly blend between the two.

Finally – we have an Offical V1419 Coat Sewalong Flickr Group! Whoop whoop! The group is open, so please feel free to join and upload your photos to share with everyone – fabric selections, muslins, anything V1419 coat related! Additionally, there are forums if you need to ask questions or advice on fitting or selecting fabric. Meg & I will be manning the group and forums as needed, but please feel free to jump in and help if you see a question that you know the answer to! 🙂

Oh, and don’t forget the Mood Fabrics discount code, if you haven’t already purchased your fabric. “lladybird1013” is good through 10/13/14 for 10% off your order (not including PV codes or dress forms). If you missed the V1419 fabric selection post, you can see it here.

Don’t forget to read up on Meg’s muslin post over at the McCall blog! How is everyone’s muslins coming along?

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25 Responses to “V1419 Sewalong: My Muslin”

  1. maddie October 6, 2014 at 11:37 am #

    This is going to be one epic coat! Thanks for sharing your in progress muslin; it’s such an important step when making outwear.

    • LLADYBIRD October 6, 2014 at 4:44 pm #

      It really is – definitely not an area to cut corners!

      • anelisen January 16, 2015 at 1:11 pm #

        I was going to skip the muslin…and then I read this post and was encouraged to do it. 🙂 I did end up altering the pattern slightly, so it was a good thing!

  2. Grace October 6, 2014 at 11:51 am #

    Thank you for the details on sizing! I’ve also lately been cutting vogue patterns 2 sizes smaller than my measurements suggest (the excess ease thing) and the finished garment size for my “correct size” at the bust is 5″ bigger than my actual body… so this is definitely something I’m puzzling over. I think I’ll go ahead and muslin with the “correct size” since I’d rather over shoot than undershoot.

    • LLADYBIRD October 6, 2014 at 4:45 pm #

      Well, the coat needs to be bigger than you are so you can wear layers underneath it 🙂 5″ might be a little big – but I’d try the suggested size first and see what you think. It seems like most people are having the best luck using their suggested size, at least with this pattern!

      • neverdidlikeyou October 7, 2014 at 12:43 pm #

        I was wondering about this myself, my suggested measurements give me about 5-6″ of ease but I figured with layers and the stiffness of the wool it’s really not that much. Do you have suggestions on how to accurately guess if you need to size down if your muslin fabric isn’t as stiff/thick as your garment fabric?

  3. Ines October 6, 2014 at 12:31 pm #

    Gosh the fit looks great already!

    • LLADYBIRD October 6, 2014 at 4:46 pm #

      I knowww, I’m really happy with it!

  4. Jes Unglamstar October 6, 2014 at 12:54 pm #

    This may be a little weird (and totally geeky), but I’m loving your muslin! It looks like a glam’d up lab coat! And now I really want a lab coat that awesome lol

    • LLADYBIRD October 6, 2014 at 4:47 pm #

      Haha no way, that’s awesome! You should make a fancy lab coat hahahaha!

  5. drmagarcia October 6, 2014 at 3:28 pm #

    As another petite sewer, I would suggest trimming a tiny bit (1/8 – 1/4″) from the top of the collar. It is not very much, but it really increases the smoothness around the neckline and the comfort level.

    • LLADYBIRD October 6, 2014 at 4:47 pm #

      That’s a great idea – thank you for the tip!

  6. Maja October 6, 2014 at 4:42 pm #

    I also finished my muslin and I’m generally very pleased with the fit. I have a bit opposit problem then you, the only adjustment I plan to make is to make sleeves longer.
    But wondering now actually why do you think lining is not possible? why do you go for underlining instead?

    • LLADYBIRD October 6, 2014 at 4:50 pm #

      I don’t think lining is impossible, but i think it would be tricky – with all the pieces involved, especially the gussets, plus you’d have to draft a facing since the pattern doesn’t include one. I also can’t imagine trying to sew this coat in something drapey and slippery like a lining fabric! If you have your heart set on making a full lining, you can try it, but I really think it’s going to be more trouble than it’s worth. I usually underline garments that have this many pieces, which is why I’m going with that instead 🙂

      Keep in mind that neither underlining nor lining is called for by the pattern – I’m just including mine since my coating would make it otherwise difficult to put the sleeves on over my arms. You can leave it off if you don’t need it 🙂

      • Maja October 6, 2014 at 7:18 pm #

        Thanks a lot for the answer.
        I will for sure have to line or underline my fabric although pattern doesnt call for it.
        Indeed the gussets and lining fabric make it difficult. However I’m still tempted to go with the lining. Crazy I know. Ahh I’ll sleep on it before making any decisions.

  7. jumliana October 6, 2014 at 7:52 pm #

    looking gooooood. 🙂

  8. BeckyLeeSews October 7, 2014 at 4:40 am #

    Is it me? Or does the back seam on the muslin lean off toward your right foot? It could be the photo but the other muslin on the Flickr page goes straight down. Just don’t want it wonky. Great progress!

    • LLADYBIRD October 7, 2014 at 4:21 pm #

      I think it is just the way I am standing, but that is a VERY good observation! I will try on the muslin again and re-check just to be sure 🙂 Thanks for pointing that out, didn’t notice it!

  9. scrubz1969 October 7, 2014 at 6:01 am #

    Lauren, thanks so much for the link to the McCall site re: their blogs! Very helpful and inspirational!

  10. Cennetta October 7, 2014 at 10:40 am #

    Great progress on the coat, Lauren. And thank you for the shout out! 😉

    • LLADYBIRD October 7, 2014 at 4:22 pm #

      Thank YOU for posting such a great tutorial 😀

  11. Basya October 7, 2014 at 1:20 pm #

    Looking good, Lauren:)

    I just bought my coat fabrics. I went with the plum pre-interfaced wool coating, about which you posted last week. (I also bought aubergine silk taffeta for the lining and blackberry silk taffeta for the contrast and trim.)

    What size needle would you use for the plum wool coating?

    • LLADYBIRD October 7, 2014 at 4:23 pm #

      Ahhh, that sounds like it’s gonna be so gorgeous! ♥

      You’ll need to test on some scraps to determine needle size, but I *think* a standard 80/12 should probably be fine 🙂 You might want to keep some bigger 90/14s on hand just in case you need the extra heft when going on thicker seams, but I think the 80/12 will be ok 🙂

  12. andrea moran (@thecraftysewand) October 8, 2014 at 1:51 pm #

    I’ve just finished my 2nd muslin! I am finding the fit around the back and bust VERY fitted I think due to the way the underarms are quite low Although it looks fine it’s just the way it feels. Your fit looks great, does yours feel tight at all when you move? I’m not sure if maybe I’m just not used to wearing such a fitted coat.

    • LLADYBIRD October 8, 2014 at 3:17 pm #

      It is pretty fitted – not a lot of ease in this coat! If you’re having issues moving, I would suggest going up a size – it shouldn’t restrict you from, say, hugging someone.

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