Completed: Ikat Moss Mini

21 Apr

Since I announced my pledge for Me-Made-May, I realized I better get crackin’ on making some summer-appropriate handmades if I want to actually get through the month as planned. One thing my closet has been missing for a few years is a good, basic mini skirt. I used to wear these things aaalll the time, but all my old ones either disintegrated over time or plain don’t fit anymore. I really wanted to try Grainline’s Moss Mini, but I wanted to hold off on pulling the trigger until I came across the perfect fabric.

Moss Mini

That perfect fabric being Ikat. Ow ow!

Moss Mini

OMG I love this skirt way more than I should. It’s a new silhouette for me for sure – despite having worn this style a LOT in the past (no lie you guys, I had them in every shade of denim, from white to dark blue. My dreams of being in a Poison video were, unfortunately, never recognized. Perhaps it’s because I only have a pick-up truck to lounge across, instead of a sweet 80s sports car? Dammit, I knew there was a reason why I needed a Delorean.), it’s not something I wear a lot of these days, so the style takes some re-getting used to. I’m liking it so far, though!

Moss Mini

Let’s talk about the pattern. The Moss Mini is a cute little mini skirt that includes slash front pockets, a back yoke, and a front fly with a button closure. It sits a little lower than my other skirts – the waistband is right below my navel. The length is pretty short! I didn’t remove any and it’s good for me – but I’m a petite lady, so as always, check those measurements.

Moss Mini

Moss Mini

I cut a size 0, but I had to take quite a bit out of the waist and hip to get it to fit without straight falling off. Next time I make this, I will probably cut a wedge out of the center back yoke as well – it’s gapes a little, since I curve more there than the pattern was drafted for. Other than that, the fit is pretty good!

Moss Mini

I debated adding back pockets (lord knows I’d use ’em), but ultimately decided that the skirt was busy enough without extra pocket baggage also demanding attention. Plus, the thought of additional pattern matching made me want to cry. Print-matching this bitch was rough, but totally worth it.

Moss Mini

“Wait a second, Lauren, didn’t I hear you say something earlier about there already being pockets on the skirt?” Yep! Check out those front-slash pockets, so cunningly camouflaged RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOUR EYES.

Moss Mini

Like I said, pattern-matching this skirt was way rough. I used my single layer method, which always does the trick. The hard part was getting the pattern to seamlessly continue, so you don’t notice any interruptions in the skirt (as opposed to a plaid or stripe, where you just follow the line). It’s like hanging freaking wallpaper, I guess. I think I ended up doing a pretty damn fine job if I do say so myself, though – do you see the center back seam? No? Good.

Moss Mini

Apart from the pattern-matching-hell, the fabric was lovely to work with. This is a stretch cotton twill from Mood Fabrics, emphasis on the stretch. Like I said, I had to take a bit out of the side seams to get this baby to fit close (a close fit is important when you are working with a stretch – negative ease is needed!), but the resulting skirt is also really comfortable and not at all constricted. Be warned that it does like to fray and shed, though. I used flat-felled seams throughout my skirt and it’s held together pretty nicely, although pressing got a little fiddly (tip: use a reeeeally hot iron and smack the shit outta that bad boy with a clapper. Ha!).

Moss Mini

Moss Mini

As far as how I’m gonna wear this skirt? I dunno. I like the way it looks with my white button-down, but the combo feels a little fussy for a breezy summer. The lower rise is also throwing me off, as tucked in shirts just don’t look nearly as good (and this shirt is long enough to where it needs it; it looks sloppy otherwise). I’m thinking I’ll just make a bunch of plain tshirts that hit right at the waistband seam, and just swap out the colors according to my mood.

Moss Mini

Now let’s plaid “find that seam!”

Moss Mini

I debated how to cut the back yoke. Originally, I planned on matching it with the back of the skirt, so the pattern wasn’t broken up – but then I realized you wouldn’t be able to tell there was a yoke there. I stand by my mis-matched yoke (and slightly mis-matched waistband, ah well), but I still think a close match would have looked good too.

Moss Mini

There’s the flat-felled seam! Omg you guys, I changed out soooo much thread to make this stupid skirt. All interior seams are white, all topstitched seams are navy. Since every seam gets sewn twice (first the inside, then the topstitching for the flat fell), you can imagine how much I was changing thread to make this. Of course, I have 3 more machines that I could have set up to speed things along. Did I bother? Naw.

Moss Mini

I made a couple of changes to the waistband. I kept the extra length that was left (from me taking in the side seams) and used it to create an underlap for a flat button. I’ve found that I prefer this kind of waistband finish, as a non-underlap waistband – on me, anyway – tends to pull funny. I also used a hook and eye to close the front, instead of a button. I dunno, I just like the clean finish of no button!

Moss Mini

And here’s the inside! I serged the pocket edges and the fly front/facing, but everything else is flat-felled (with the white thread on the inside – see how good it looks??). I’m really really happy with how the inside of this skirt looks. So clean!

Moss Mini

I guess that’s it! Question: What color tshirts should I be making to wear with this skirt? I’m filling up my Mood cart right now…


53 Responses to “Completed: Ikat Moss Mini”

  1. Blue Sunday April 21, 2014 at 8:31 am #

    Super cute! Love, Love, Love that fabric! That skirt is hot! I’d love some pants out of the same fabric. You go girl!!

  2. pastryelf April 21, 2014 at 8:46 am #

    Great Moss! Nice matching… I’ve made this a couple of times and find that I needed to take some fabric out of the yoke to make it sit flat on my rear. Also found the sizing larger than expected so I’ve gone down a couple of sizes. But it’s a fab pattern. I love me some Navy, find it to be a great neutral, so I think you can throw any color of jersey into your cart for Tees- yellow, pink, green, any of the neutrals, hell, go wild and throw some stripes or polka dots in there….!

  3. Kelly April 21, 2014 at 9:02 am #

    Wow, gorgeous! I just made a Moss last night (in black, knee length, totally boring but so useful) and even I totally forgot there were front and back seams until you mentioned it. You are an AMAZING print matcher!

  4. Heather Lou April 21, 2014 at 9:06 am #

    This is adorable and your pattern matching is sublime. I’m too lazy – I just made an ikat Anna and DIDN’T EVEN CONSIDER print matching cuz I was like, meh, its busy who cares. When I should have been channeling you. I love this skirt on other people but I’ve been wearing highwaisted skirts for so long now its hard to return to something sitting lower on the hips. In my opinion, this is a no-tuck piece. It will look rad with t-shirts and you can channel punk Lauren while you wear it.

  5. lisa g April 21, 2014 at 9:22 am #

    i love our matching moss skirts! i think it’d look great with greens, orange, pink, just about anything! this is a great pattern, i’ve made it four times and they are in heavy rotation during the warm months!

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 9:53 am #

      Yay for being Moss twins!! 😀

  6. Nakisha April 21, 2014 at 9:49 am #

    Super cute. I love iKat! Love!!

    This is perfect on you and way to go on that pattern matching! woohoo!

  7. LinB April 21, 2014 at 9:49 am #

    What color shirt should you NOT be making to wear with this sweet skirt?! The classic indigo blue makes it like anything denim … and everything goes with blue denim. I agree that you’ll maybe be happier with solids than with any sort of print, but don’t feel that you have to limit your tops to only blouses and tees — you’re still young and beautiful and other people don’t mind looking at your midsection. Halter-tops as from the 1970s? Crop tops? Bra-top halters as from the 1940s? Pasties with tassels? (perhaps not).

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 9:53 am #

      Ha! As much as I love crop tops, I draw the line at showing my navel (which is what this skirt will do). Although, who knows – maybe I’ll be more than Miley Cyrus than ever this summer and ROCK those belly button baring crop tops!

      I REALLY draw the line at pasties with tassels, though 😉 YOU’RE WELCOME.

  8. noho23 April 21, 2014 at 10:03 am #

    This mini would look choice with a Poison tour tee, totes. I work in LA’s fashion district and all the groovy kids here are using Ikats as neutrals. As if – denim. Do it, man.

    Can I ask you a question about sewing muslins? What do you do after you’ve sewn it, and it sucks, do you pin it? mark it? unsew it and try again? What if you eventually get a perfect fit, how do you transfer that to your primary fabric? It’s such a big mystery to me. (I know that was more than one question)

    I’ve been lurking on your blog forever. It’s so very good, but tip of the hat to your Vogue reviews. I wait for them like Christmas desserts.

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 4:10 pm #

      Ah! Must get a Poison tshirt, stat!

      For muslins… well, everyone has a different method. I’ll tell you mine, though! After I make the first muslin and fix all the problems (could be pinning, sewing, slashing, ect – it just depends on what the issue is! For me, it’s usually taking in seams with pins, though), I transfer everything to the pattern paper and cut a second muslin. Once I’m sure that the second muslin (or third, or however many muslins it takes – call it “final”) fits, then I’m ready to sew with the good fabrics.

      To transfer the changes to the pattern piece, again, it really depends on what you did. For taking in seams, I just measure the amount taken out and draw that on the pattern piece. If you were slashing and spreading, you’d do the same with the pattern piece. Sometimes it helps to rip the whole muslin apart and just trace over the new markings with one of those rotary markers. Whatever works 🙂 Just make sure you sew up that final muslin, using the updated pattern piece, to be sure that the changes you made are correct!

      Also, I don’t save my muslins. I know some people do, but I stick them in my fabric recycling box.

      • noho23 April 23, 2014 at 11:54 pm #

        Thanks! You’re super smart about muslins (or as my phone corrects to: Muslims) Let me know if you ever come to LA and I’ll give you a nickel tour of the downtown fabric spread.

  9. sallie April 21, 2014 at 10:16 am #

    I love the Moss mini!! And your ikat version is so summery and cool looking! I know exactly what you mean by it being a style that you have to get re-accustomed to. I had gotten SO used to having everything hit at my natural waist, it was a bit odd to wear something closer to my hips again! But I really like to wear my moss with just plain t-shirts. I think you could wear pretty much any color with this ikat – white and navy, obviously, but also athletic grey, red (hey-o July 4th!!) yellow, or even blue and white breton stripe for some pattern craziness!!

  10. A April 21, 2014 at 10:37 am #

    Scout T in navy

  11. nettie April 21, 2014 at 11:12 am #

    LOVE THIS!!!! That pattern matching is crazy-town! I would never come close to rocking it like that!

    I totally have to make something with my Ikat purchased the same day. And, you know, not an entire year later like I did with fabric from our last shopping trip together, lol

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 4:12 pm #

      Oh man, you and me both! I’m scared to touch that NYC Mood Ikat, it’s just so beautiful and special that I really want to be sure what I make it out of. We are gonna be so fabulous together when we finally make up our fabrics!

  12. Rachel April 21, 2014 at 11:35 am #

    Nice! I just made my first Moss and found the same issue at the back… next time I’ll take a little wedge out of the back seam. I have some fabulous ikat… but I think I want to save that for the Grainline shorts!

  13. Lissa April 21, 2014 at 11:37 am #

    SO cute! I’d pair it with orange or chartreuse, but I’ve got auburn hair. I agree with the above comments that suggest using it as though it’s a denim, but sticking to solid colors for the tops (the band tshirt idea was a great one, too!)

  14. seamsoddlouise April 21, 2014 at 11:40 am #

    Excellent skirt. Perfect for coloured shirts.

  15. maddie April 21, 2014 at 11:49 am #

    Why not pair this skirt with a slouchy tee like this:

    Grainline’s hemlock pattern would be perfect!

  16. kate0795 April 21, 2014 at 12:46 pm #

    I love this skirt! very cute! Fabric is gorgeous…if it were me, I’d be looking to wear a fab scarlett red or emerald green top with this skirt…would really compliment the deep blue of the skirt and pattern x

  17. weefrills April 21, 2014 at 1:00 pm #

    Suuuuper cute! Hey, Lauren, I got on the bike yesterday.

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 4:14 pm #

      Yay!! I… haven’t been on my bike in months 😦 New work commute is a liiiiittle too far. I miss it!

  18. Caroline Joynson April 21, 2014 at 1:22 pm #

    Amaz-balls on the fab ikat Moss-Mini. You are the the queen of pattern matching you have def got a lot of pateience for that stuff. A brilliant addition to you Me-Made-May wardrobe options.
    Any number of slouchy t’s in bright summery colours, funky tank tops, fitted t-shirts in navy, red or white. Or a wife-beater? is that what you guys call a vest top?

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 4:15 pm #

      Ha! A wifebeater is a specific kind of tank (you say vest) top. The kind with a racerback and wide straps, like what a dude would wear 🙂 But yeah, wifebeater would work with this!

  19. Laura April 21, 2014 at 1:57 pm #

    I love it on you! What about pairing it with a… Shit, I’ve forgotten what Americans call what we call vests… like a sleeveless t-shirt thing… Maybe with a loose shirt open over it. In all colours. ALL colours.

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 4:15 pm #

      haha tank top! And yes, I think that’s a great idea!

  20. kimmie April 21, 2014 at 2:15 pm #

    I think this would look super cute with coral, light blue and goldy yellow.

  21. tworandomwords April 21, 2014 at 2:47 pm #

    You match Mary !
    I love this pattern and have always wanted to wear a denim mini-skirt, but the style does NOT suit my lower puku so I have to live virariously through others. Your pattern matching, as usual, is great (and I finally started doing it after seeing you brag about how good it looked :p)

    • LLADYBIRD April 21, 2014 at 4:16 pm #

      Aw yay, another Ikat twinsie! We have the best tastes in fabric 😉

  22. fionaparker17 April 21, 2014 at 3:39 pm #

    O my god I love so much about this! As soon as the sunshine arrives I get drawn to Ikat and the close up of the fabric makes this look like such a good one. Your pattern matching is awesome as always and it looks so great on the inside, well worth the extra effort and all the thread switching!

  23. Elle April 21, 2014 at 5:02 pm #

    I would go with a light heathery gray, green, and ORANGE! Complimentary colors and all. I would use the Deer & Doe Plantain pattern to make it summery and cute, but I know you have the Briar and I can see that looking really choice, as well, especially with the slightly cropped front.

  24. hollyannabella April 21, 2014 at 5:20 pm #

    Looks great! Question: what length zipper did you use for the fly? I used a regular zipper in the length specified by the pattern, but had to cut some length off in the process. I would like to use a metal zip next time like you have, but obviously you can’t cut metal so it needs to be just right!

    • LLADYBIRD April 23, 2014 at 5:24 pm #

      I used the recommended 7″ length and just cut the excess off. You can TOTALLY cut a metal zipper – I do it all the time. Be careful to only cut the zipper tape (not the teeth) and use an old pair of scissors in case you do end up nicking the teeth 🙂

  25. B & the Moon April 21, 2014 at 5:50 pm #

    Camouflaged pockets…Bravo!

  26. Sally {thequirkypeach} April 21, 2014 at 9:30 pm #

    Love this skirt and fabric! Awesome print matching, btw 🙂

  27. GrammytheYeti April 22, 2014 at 5:21 am #

    Great pattern matching! You are truly queen. I always struggle with figuring out the seam allowance – like I’ll see how it should work and set the pattern just right and (hopefully) before I make the first snip, something in my brain goes, “Hey Dippy – SEAM ALLOWANCE will change the pattern match!” If I’ve already cut, a few expletives that are US Navy-worthy can be heard sounding from my sewing room.

    I’d go with plain white or navy (although blues can be hard to match), waistband-length, short-sleeve tees. How about a red one on the 4th at a back yard BBQ! Korn-y I know but so apropos and that is forgiven on that one day. That print is SO pretty a solid would be the way I’d go so as not to take away from the gorgeous pattern.

  28. Beth April 22, 2014 at 6:47 am #

    You are so inspirational. Every time I think I’m starting to lose my will to create there you are with your amazing print matching and your attention to detail and amazing results. If I were the proud owner/creator of this skirt I would get my hands on every bright color I could find to pair with it. Oranges, yellows, reds, greens, pinks…I love bright colored Ts because they also look awesome with denim or can be a fun pop over black… versatile yet colorful!

  29. Kim April 22, 2014 at 9:29 am #

    Wow, very cute! I’m absolutely in love with that fabric! And once again, pattern matching perfection!

  30. Susan April 22, 2014 at 11:44 am #

    Awesome skirt! And ORANGE is always my top choice with blue… ❤️❤️

  31. Trice April 23, 2014 at 12:27 pm #

    I really love this skirt. Super tempted to buy some of this fabric and make my own Moss. No tempting!

  32. charityshopchic April 24, 2014 at 7:23 am #

    Love this fabric! You’re well prepared for summer in this, I think. Now I’ve seen you and Clare both do Ikat skirts – I want one myself!

  33. Beth April 27, 2014 at 1:42 pm #

    Looks great! I love the fabric!

  34. sewsleepy April 29, 2014 at 3:32 pm #

    really lovely skirt – love it

  35. Prink May 3, 2014 at 9:27 am #


    • LLADYBIRD May 4, 2014 at 11:23 am #

      … what?

      • Prink May 8, 2014 at 6:29 am #



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