Now that’s one plaid flannel top that definitely doesn’t look like something a man would wear, amirite.
This is the Bruyère top from Deer & Doe. I’ve actually had this pattern for quite a while – I bought it immediately after it’s release. I LOVE the cute and feminine twist it gives to a plain button down, and I knew it’d be beautiful in a plaid flannel. I’ve been sitting on it for this long because I haven’t been able to find the right plaid flannel – either the plaid was unbalanced (get out of my nightmare), or the colors were ugly, or the flannel was shitty. Or maybe a combination of the three. Either way, no Bruyère for me 😦
This plaid flannel actually came from the same place that the pattern did – aaaaaall the way from Paris, France! Yup! It was the first piece of fabric I bought during my shopping spree, from Les étoffes du Sentier. The shop had a 3 meter minimum, but it was only 5€ a meter and I figured 3 is a safe number for a button up, so I went with it. It’s a nice soft cotton plaid flannel and I like how the colors are so un-girly, especially with this pattern. And, bonus – even after plaid-matching, I have leftovers to make something else with! Yes!
First, though, check out those matched side seams! Ahhh yeah!!
And the other side!
And the back!
Hi!
Seriously, though, I’m pretty happy with how this turned out (if you couldn’t tell 😛 ). I cut the size 34, and the only fitting change I made was to remove a little bit of length from the peplum and sleeves, because I am so short. Other than that, it fits pretty well! I’m surprised at much much I like the collar – I was afraid it would look flat and dumb, but the flannel gives it some lovely body.
For cutting the plaid, I cut on the single layer and cut the waistbands, cuffs, placket and back yoke on the bias. Since the bias tends to stretch, I also cut my second yoke on the straight grain, as well as a second set of waistbands. Further, I interfaced my waistbands (to be really sure they don’t stretch out), as well as the cuffs, collar, and placket. I’m not sure why these aren’t included in the instructions, but my guess is to keep the overall look of the shirt very soft and unstructured. Which is fine, but, I do think anything that has a button will need a little extra help from interfacing. I’d definitely make some test button holes before you commit, at any rate!
I spent a really long time trying to decide how to order the construction steps for this. The instructions are fine as they are – the process for attaching the placket/collar/facing is very clever (and clean!) and it works. However, I’m a diehard who wanted flat felled seams. In addition – I wasn’t 100% on the fit of the side seams, and I wanted to sew that last so I could tweak it after attaching the placket (when sewing flat felled shirt seams, once generally attaches the sleeves before sewing the side seams. Sewing a flat felled seam in the round just sounds like a painful thing I don’t want to do). Because of how the shirt is assembled per the instructions, you can’t really switch them out – you have to have the hem sewn to add the placket, but the side seams need to be sewn to add the hem. I know this sounds really vague and probably doesn’t make sense, but if you look at the instructions for this shirt vs ones for, say, the Negroni, it will. Anyway, this is what I ended up doing:
– I left the side seams open and sewed about 2″ of the shirt hem by the placket
– Followed the instructions for adding the collar, placket and facing
– Attached the sleeves with flat-felled seams
– Sewed the side seams with flat-felled seams
– Finished the remainder of the hem
That worked out great! My shirt is finished with flat-felled seams and it looks beaaaaaauuuutiful on the inside as well as the out 😀
What else? Well, I added PEARL SNAPS. God, I love those things – nothing like being able to Hulk out of our clothes at the end of the day amirite. I feel like the very top needs a pearl snap (it’s not marked on the pattern), however, I couldn’t get the prongs through all the layers so no pearl snap there!
Here’s the inside. I finished the edge of my facing with pinking shears – I think anything else would show a ridge on the right side. Of course, I probably should have first sewed a line of stitching before pinking, because it’s already fraying like crazy, but whatev.
I guess that’s it! Glad I finally got this finished – plaid flannel shirt of my dreamssss ♥
Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! Just a couple days left until the end of the year – aiee!
Nice fabric ! And from what I can see it is beautifully sewn ! Thanks for indicating the different steps you followed when assembling the shirt !
Thank you! I always like to note when I change the construction steps – if anything, it helps me next time I make the pattern 😛 haha!
That’s cute — and I don’t usually care that much for plaid shirts (I don’t hate ’em or anything, I’m just indifferent to them). I like how it resembles a shirtwaist dress but without looking like a tunic. I’ve seen that top button problem with pearl snaps before, a lot of shirts I see with them just add a regular button right at the top there, so maybe you could do that.
I actually considered adding a regular button to the top, but I wasn’t sure if it would look out of place or not. That’s good to know that you’ve seen it on other shirts!
You couldn’t have had better timing. I have flannel and Ms. Bruyere sitting on my table right now. I will be mimicing…who are we kidding…I will be stealing your construction ideas.
Thanks for the tips!
Awesome! Hope you find them helpful 😀
Nice shirt and amazing plaid matching! Interesting comments on construction! I just finished a linen shirt from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s book and they have you sew the hem before the flat-felled side seams. It requires different SA on front and back and pre-pressing the wider SA in half. It was weird but it worked!
Ooh, that sounds really interesting – I’ll have to check it out. I normally like to sew my hem after the seams are finished (so it’s a continuous unbroken seam along the bottom), but now you’ve got my curiosity 🙂
Oh, Lauren, it’s perfect! Plaid, pattern, fit and execution, well done! I also need to have those self encased flat seams on my plaid shirts, and i’ll definetly copy those pearl snaps on my next shirt, they are adorable.
Yes! Pearl snaps make everything adorable 😀
That shirt is EPIC. Plaid helps this pattern strike the perfect balance between masculine & feminine detailing, I love it a lot!
Thank you! Love me some plaid 😀
I have some silk from Amsterdam that, when the pattern came out, I was like “that’s what that silk wants to be!” But that is a spring make, as it is too cold now for a think silk blouse. 😉 And . . . I have some blue and gray flannel that wants to be this shirt too.
I really like this one too. Really, really like it!
Oooh, a silk version of this would be lovely!!
This is a beautiful blouse. Love the plaid, but love the style even more. Beautiful job, as always.
Ramona
Thank you! 🙂
This looks great, Lauren. I bought this pattern the day it was released too. And, it’s sitting at the top of my pile of things to do. Liz and I even bought fabric specifically for this project when we were in NY during the fall. I’ll eventually get caught up with myself and sew it. I’m not sure how I feel about that facing piece… is there utility to it? Could it be eliminated? I guess I’ll find out when I get around to sewing!
I believe the main benefit of the facing is to finish the collar/neckline area (since there isn’t a collar stand; it’s just a flat collar). You could probably eliminate it with some finagling – which was something I considered, then I decided I couldn’t wrap my head around it (at least not for the first version of this pattern!). That being said, the facing is pretty secured down if that’s a concern to you – it’s sewn to the neckline, arm holes, and placket. No chance of it poking out like a typical facing does !
Wow, great job!
Pay with Polka Dots
Thank you! 🙂
Gorgeous, I love it! That flannel was so soft!
It is! I’m so glad I found it (and stuck around long enough to actually get someone to cut yardage for me hahahaha) 😀
Love this top! Nothing like a nice and warm flannel shirt but with incredible style!
It’s SO warm and cozy, too! Perfect for this weather 😀
Beautiful shirt and the bias pieces are perfect. Wow!
Thank you!
Great shirt! I do usually like the men’s shirt vibe though, so I’ll stick to Archers. That fabric is just perfect, how come I missed it at Les Etoffes?!
Aw! It was upstairs, past the creepy staircases and tiny random rooms. They had a few bolts up there, but I had to chase someone down to get the yardage cut. You should go back and get some!!
While I’ve admired this pattern on others I never thought it would work for me… until now! I love the tougher fabric with this sweet design!
Yay! I’m glad you like it 😀
Beautiful workmanship. Very flattering on you.
Thank you! 🙂
Hulk out, ha ha! Very lovely top, yay on matching plaids!
Ha, it’s the best part of wearing pearl snaps 😉 lol
Looks perfect! I´m starting to feel like a stalker now, this is about the 6th thing you made in the last few months that I was planning on making, too. For each thing I already had the pattern or the fabric here 🙂 I love your shirt, it fits you so well!
Hey, it’s not stalker-y – just surprise twinning! haha! 🙂
You are such a bad ass! I love that top and now I am going to have to deal with the French instructions and try to make it to. Its a girly archer…in love with it!
Ah, no, the pattern comes with English instructions! You don’t even need French to make this bitch! haha! 😀
It’s gorgeous! I still haven’t been able to find a good flannel for my own plaid shirt (which I’ve wanted ever since I made my husband one, then tried his on and realised how comfortable it was). Fingers crossed The Fabric Store will have some when we get closer to winter.
Good flannel is hard to find, but it’s SO worth it when you do! Good luck with your flannel shopping:D
I love the combo of masculine/feminine in this top. I also love how the top of your blog is snowing. 🙂
It always snows in December, it makes me so happy 😀
I love your projects .. The plaid top look so cute on you and the shape so flattering. You starting to give me the plaid ich as well.. 😀 I love your site btw!!!! You really are inspiring me to sew again and really start right the first time and not rush my projects but take time for the small details.
I look forward to reading your new post everyday. I always check at least 3 times a day .. 😀
Aw, thank you so much! I’m glad you like my blog 😀
I knew this would be gorgeous in a plaid- I love it! I have this patten in my queue for the new year, and I’ve a plaid and a gorgeous printed cotton to choose between. I can’t wait!
x
Ah, do them both! 😀
Such a cute top. I love the colors in the fabric and btw love the hair.
Thank you!
Ohhhhh Lauren this is lovely!!! I just started tracing the pattern for mine- finally! I have the most luscious grey polka dot shirting from Blackbird Fabrics and once it’s finished I will probably want to take it to bed. Not to sleep. ❤
ahahaha, yesss, get it girl 😉
Wow, I love it!!! It fits you so well!! It’s perfection!!! I might have to buy it just ‘cuz I am a little thing like you and I have the most impossible time finding or fixing to get the torso/shoulder and all that mess up there to fit well. Lovely shirt, congrats on a (as usual for you) beautifully sewn garment.
Thank you! I’m pretty pleased with how it fit out of the envelope – the proportions were just right for me 🙂
This is just soooo cute! I need to get this pattern. Love that you chose to do it in flannel, absolute perfect match.
Thank you!
Yaaaasssssssss! I love this. I bought this pattern a few months ago, but I too have been on a never ending quest to find just the right plaid for it. I’m glad to hear the pattern is worth the wait. It sure looks UH-DORABLE ❤
Oh yeah, it’s totally worth the wait! Finding the right plaid, though – that’s a whole adventure in itself! But it’ll be worth it:)
Lauren, this shirt looks amazing and amazing on you. Looks cozy too.
Thank you! It’s super cozy, I love it 🙂
You are the master at matching plaid! One day, just one day I’ll give it a go! I love this Bruyere! This is just perfect the pattern and fabric is from France! It’s stinkin’ adorable. As much as I love how it looks from the outside, I LOVE the inside. It’s so clean and pretty!
I just *might* be tempted to buy it, but I’m still on the fence just as when this first came out. I love a good button down, and I love this version because it is different, but, and it’s a big one, I’m not sure if it’s me. I’ll have to think about it. May be I’ll make them and make leggings and bam! I’ll have a complete outfit.
I was on the fence too when this pattern came out (my fence time only lasted about 2 hours though, haha!), because it’s definitely the kind of top you can pretty much only wear with leggings or really tight pants (I imagine anything else – shorts, skirt, flares, etc – would just look too unbalanced with the skirt part), but I do really like how different it is from other patterns available, which is why I ended up buying it. It’s nice for when you want to feel like you look put together, but want to be comfy in leggings and a button down 🙂 I do like that about it!
And yesss for the inside being clean and pretty! That’s my favorite part of the top 😀
Before I read your reply, I was thinking of how comfy it would be in general and for traveling. Even then, I still had my reservations. I love the bonus factor of looking pulled together. So, I think you just convinced me to buy the pattern! 🙂 Now I need to get my tooshy together and make some leggings. I have the ooh la leggings pattern.
Yay!! The Ooh La Leggings are my favorite pattern; make them in a ponte and they basically resemble pants (with all the comfort we love from leggings :3)
Lauren, that shirt is absolutely lovely and so professional looking. You did an amazing job! You matched the plaid up perfectly…I mean, it’s something I’d be proud to wear too. That pattern is too cute!
Thank you so much! 🙂
Gorgeous and I too love a pearl snap! I have a few RTW button downs with them… I laughed when I read ‘Hulk out of our clothes ‘ !! I do that
Hahaha because it’s FUN, right? Ahh, pearl snaps are so good hahaha
This top is stunning!! Great work!! I love the snaps.
Thank you!
Hmmm..I just bought some plaid flannel, so this gives me some inspiration! I have been seeing plaid shirts come back in fashion recently and this one look fabulous! I really enjoyed your tutorial on how to match the plaid – very good advice.
Thank you! I’m glad you found the tutorial helpful 🙂 I love matching plaid haha
I love these colors! What a great shirt!
Thank you!
Super cute!
Thank you!
As I was saying, this is a superior make. In fact, this is the best Bruyère I’ve seen and it almost makes me want to make one, as if I needed more stuff to make. Happy New Year! See you soon!
Thank you so much, Carmen! I’m really happy with how it turned out – the inside is so clean and pretty 🙂 And yesss, you always need more stuff to make 🙂 haha!
Nice! Are those OohLaa Leggings?
They are! I made them out of ponte so they’re like legging-pants 🙂
Thanks! I’m going to attempt some soon…
I literally just returned from my first trip to Paris. Last day of my trip, among a hundred other things… including champagne and chocolate at sunset, on the steps in the garden just below Le Sacre Coeur… First stop of the day was my first phone call in French, a language I DO NOT speak, to Brin de Cousette, Amandine was so helpful, I was on a mission to find this pattern, feel fabric, and save on shipping!!! On the plane home today, I was dreaming of making it in plaid with the plaid cut on the bias, like I did with my Belledone Dress, and here!!! You did it!!!! Oh yeah, 2015 is gonna be a good year. Bonne Année!! Happy Sewing!!!!
Beautiful top! Love the fabric used in this way! Can I just ask how you put in the back of your snaps? I have the Dritz pliers, but I find that they make the back of my snaps almost wrinkled :S I just can’t find what I’m doing wrong..
Funny, I tried the Dritz pliers too and they just don’t work for me (like I can’t even get the snap in at all, despite following the instructions haha). I actually just used a hammer to set these in. I have a vintage snap setter from my flea market, which is what I used for this… it’s just a long metal rod thing with a larger end, serves about the same purpose as a spool of thread (which is what I used before, but I like this setter because it keeps the pearl part from cracking). You still get to use a hammer, which is awesomeeee 😀
Ooh I’m glad it isn’t just me! Next time I’m going to google it first and then get out my hammer 🙂
I love this shirt! It’s the perfect mix of fitted and comfy looking! `I was considering making a Bruyere and during my internet spying this was the one that convinced me! I totally don’t have the skills for pattern matching as well though! I really wanted snaps too but was in too much of a hurry to finish mine to wait! Well done lady!