IT’S FLANNEL SEASON AGAIN, Y’ALL.
I don’t like the cold – like, at all – but I do love the clothes that are associated with this season. Layers, textured fabrics, WOOL, dark colors and jewel tones… gimmie all of it. Flannel button-ups are at the top of my list. I love that they can be worn solo and buttoned up, layered under a sweater, or layered over a tank or tshirt and left to swing free in the breeze. Snaps at the cuffs make it easy to roll the sleeves up, snaps at the button band make it possible to Hulk out at the end of the day (don’t pretend like you don’t do this with snap-up shirts, you liar).
I have a few handmade plaid flannel shirts, all of which I love to wear, so I put a short hold on adding to that stash. I finally allowed myself this year to make 2 more – both out of plaid cotton flannel from Mood Fabrics. This is the first of the two. I haven’t taken photos of the second one yet, but rest assured – it’s almost the exact same as this one, just a different colorway. Because if I am anything, I am consistent haha.
As I said, this is the Archer button up from Grainline Studio. I’ve made this shirt a lot, so there’s not a lot to elaborate on here, just a few small changes. I sewed view A with the angled cuffs, swapped out the included placket for a tower placket (I use the placket from the Negroni pattern, but this placket download from Threads is basically the same thing).
Sizing-wise, I cut a size 0 (which is the size I pretty much always sew with Grainline). One thing I did change with this pattern was to increase the seam allowances at the side and sleeve seams to 5/8″ – the included seam allowances are 1/2″, and I actually sew them at 5/8″ since I like to flat-fell those seams. I’ve noticed that my shirts are pulling ever-so-slightly at the bust now (told ya I’ve gained some weight. And also an entire cup size, ughhhhh), so I added in that extra 1/8″ and the fit is much better now!
I cut my fabric on the single layer to get the plaid all matched up (see here for my plaid-matching tips!), and cut the outer yoke and pockets on the bias. I originally had the pockets cut to match the plaid at the front, but they matched so well they basically disappeared, and I wasn’t crazy about that look. So I re-cut them and I think they look much better!
As I mentioned, all seams are flat-felled so there is a nice clean finish on the inside. I used a super lightweight interfacing so that everything would stay nice and soft – I didn’t want a stiff button placket in contrast to the otherwise floppy fabric. Everything is topstitched in black, and I used black snaps for closures.
My cotton flannel was found at the Mood Fabrics store in NYC, back in August. I had a hankering for a new flannel, and I wanted one that was soft and lightweight, like it had already been worn to death. I found this and another similar flannel in a different colorway, both of which work perfectly with the color palette that my closet has ended up morphing into. Since flannel tends to shrink up quite a bit, I washed and dried my fabric three times before cutting into it. I kept the sleeves slightly on the long side, again, in case they decide to shrink up (my first flannel shirt has quite short sleeves now!).
I think that’s all I can say about this make! I’ve already worn it loads and I look forward to some hardcore layering here in the next few months 😀
A couple other things of note:
1. Yes, I made my jeans! They are Gingers that I made with veeeeery stretchy twill fabric (like, they are almost jeggings haha I love them). Just some basic black pants that don’t necessarily warrant a whole post. However, here’s a shot of the butt (and my new belt) (and this shirt, too, apparently lol)
2. Yes, that’s a new hair color! After a REALLY long time (for me anyway haha) with the same color, I decided I was ready for a change! I love the new color so much!
** Note: The fabrics used in this post were provided by Mood Fabrics, in exchange for participation in the Mood Sewing Network.
LLADYBIRD 
Love the shirt and your fall hair color! I have been searching for super stretch twill, which one did you use for your Gingers?
Thank you! I’m afraid I can’t direct you to the specific twill I used for these pants – I bought it at Mood NYC, just pulled it somewhere off the wall haha. Sorry that’s not terribly helpful!
Since you address making the same pattern over and over (who wouldn’t when it’s tried and true?) but I wonder the following:
Do you use a tracing wheel for darts, etc? I find my TAT skirt patterns darts come detached after the second tracing. So do you just put tape on them to keep them together? Do you tape tissue paper to reinforce (my method thus far), or do you often retrace the entire pattern on tissue paper (I’ve been thinking about this but have not done so thus far)? I am not giving up use of the tracing wheel, because Mother (who taught me to sew at 8 yrs old) did not allow the tracing wheel.
Your shirt is gorgeous and your techniques so perfect. My mother would love you, but I’m still at the stage where my mantra is “you’re not being judged, you’re not being judged.” (reference to 4-H judging).
Nancy in Albuquerque
I actually don’t trace my darts at all! I find it easier to mark the dart point (with whatever marks best on the fabric – usually wax) and clip small notches where the legs are. I use a ruler and chalk to draw the lines of the dart after the fabric has been cut.
In the event that my patterns do get ratty from using a tracing wheel, I just tape them together to reinforce the tissue. I rarely retrace my patterns entirely. The closest I’ve come to that is to photocopy my beloved tower sleeve placket piece, so I have a back-up haha.
I have trouble using the chalk thingy (which I found in a thrift store grab bag and didn’t know what it was for weeks) accurately, but I’ll see if I can make the clip and bottom mark work. Have a terrific weekend.
Try using a Chaco liner, they are sooo much easier to use than plain chalk. It writes like a pen, with a fine line, but dusts off like the chalk that it is. They are a bit more expensive than a piece of chalk, but absolutely worth it imho (and refillable!). Every single person I’ve shown mine to has ended up buying one haha. They are that awesome!
Lately I’ve been marking the dart point and clipping notches like you do, but instead of drawing the lines when I go to sew I pull a bit extra of the end of the thread and pull it from the beginning to the end of the sewing line and just follow that.
Noticing your brilliant hair color. It rocks! When I was making scrub tops for work, I prided myself on matching the pockets. They were low and I wanted them to disappear. I agree that pockets on your chest are prettier when kiltered. BTW, my hair used to be your color but now it’s silver and gray………I miss the red sometimes but not the coloring hassles……lol. Oh, and I agree. I hate cold and I grew up in MN! We’re looking to move to NC in the next year…….
I am jealous, I wish I was going silver! My stylist looks for greys every time I go in, but nothing yet 🙂 Maybe for the best, bc I’m still enjoying being a redhead haha.
What a beautiful shirt, and I LOVE that belt! “¡Ándale! ¡Ándale! ¡Arriba! ¡Arriba! ¡Epa! ¡Epa! ¡Epa! Yeehaw!” (Are you too young to remember Mel Blanc voicing Speedy Gonzalez?) Wish I’d known about flannel’s insane propensity for shrinkage. I’m just finishing up some pajama pants and now I’m concerned that once (prewash) won’t be anywhere near enough. Next time, however….
lol not too young, I definitely caught that reference! And yes, I have made the same mistake with flannel pjs too – they are now high waters. And I still wear them 😛 😛 😛
so, you’d advise pre-washing 3x? Any other fabrics that are anything like this? I never used to pre-wash at all (admission of guilt). Kinda like swatching 🙂
Anything that I think is gonna shrink, I prewash (and dry) several times to get as much shrinkage out as possible before I cut it. Usually linen and cotton flannel, in my experience. And eep, I always prewash *and* swatch (and wash my swatches, lol). I like to live dangerously, but not in that regard lol 🙂
Love this and love that you are still on Mood Sewing Network. Had a hard time finding the Network on the Mood site yesterday. Does it have its own website now?
It’s still on the main website – scroll toward the bottom (right above the Instagram feed). It does have it’s own site, too, though – moodsewingnetwork.com. I always access it that way!
That flannel shirt is awesome! I really like the switch up on the pockets – that really makes it. Your skills are da best! Thanks for the links for the plaid matching and placket info. I saved both to a .pdf on my laptop in case the internet gods disfavor me when I need them the most. Your new hair color is unbelievable. It suits you to a T and I love it!
Love your new flannel Archer shirt and your Ginger jeans! I have made both and love them. I have a little reservation of the Archer shirt on me though because I have too much fabric at the back waist area….I need to figure this out before I make another Archer shirt, maybe get rid of the pleat under the back yoke…. Yours are all fab!
Beautiful shirt! Aren’t button ups the best? They are hands down my favorite thing to sew! There is just something so satisfying about all that top stitching, at least for me.
Great shirt, and it really sets off the color of your hair!
Reblogged this on By the Mighty Mumford and commented:
LOVELY SHIRT!