Completed: Ginger Jeans + Silk Cami

15 Feb

Well, it’s finally too cold to take photos outdoors.

Ginger Jeans + Silk Tank

Hello, wall!

Ginger Jeans + Silk Tank

Anyway, I made another pair of Ginger jeans – and finally used up my second piece of the Cone Mills denim I’ve been hoarding since I bought it last year (FYI, in my last post it was brought to my attention that Threadbare Fabrics also sells Cone Mills denim by the yard. I haven’t ordered from them yet – but it made it much easier to cut into my precious stash knowing that I could get more of the stuff. Yay!). This is the lighter weight of the two denims I received in my kit; I think it’s a 10oz. It’s thinner and a little stretchier than what I used in my previous pair, and I like it a lot more. Actually, it’s almost identical to the denim I used in my very first pair of Gingers – same color and everything. I realize I essentially made two pairs of the same pants, but that first pair is starting to show it’s age (saying that I wear them a LOT is a huge understatement), so I am just thinking I’m ahead of the curve for once.

Ginger Jeans + Silk Tank

I was originally saving this denim to make a pair of flares – either using the Ginger jeans flare expansion add-on (um, btw, how genius is that idea?!) or the new Birkin flares that everyone is obsessing over, but in the end I just decided to remake my ol’ TNT (especially since the fabric on the first pair is a bit subpar quality, and one of these days I might have an unfortunate butt-rip happen. Hopefully not in public. I am wearing cute underwear at all times just in case, though). Like I said, I can reorder more of the Cone Mills, so perhaps there will be flares in my future. Just not this pair. No ragrets.

Ginger Jeans + Silk Tank

I wanted to improve on my last pair – they’re ok, but the bunching at the knee really bothered me way too much. I tried to research what the issue was – some people suggested that I might have knock-knees which is causing the bunching, but I’m pretty sure that’s not the case (I definitely don’t look like I have knock-knees, anyway). One of the comments in my last jeans post suggested checking out Cation Designs as she has a few posts on pants fitting. I usually refer to my pants-fitting bible, Pants for Real People, as it has never steered me wrong. However, this particular fit issue wasn’t covered in the book (I think it’s a product of tight/stretchy jeans, which they certainly don’t show any of in the book hahaha), so it was good to have a back-up resource! And this post in particular is FANTASTIC – plus, I think I found my solution! Yay! The #10 Hyperextended Calf alteration sounded like what I was dealing with – the calves of my tight pants are always REALLY tight, which then causes them to ride up and bunch at the knee (I have muscular calves, so this makes sense!). I did this alteration to my jeans pattern, adding 1 1/8″ to the calf (this was just a wild guess; I wasn’t about to slash up a pair of pants to figure out the exact amount I needed). It worked pretty well, but I think I could stand to add even a little more width. How they are now, though, is pretty magical -they only bunch a little, and I think that’s just from moving around. I don’t have giant folds of denim hanging around my knee. It is AWESOME. However, I am not a huge fan of how big it makes the ankle – I can deal with this pair, but on my next pair I would like to figure out a way to keep the tightess at the ankle while still allowing some room in the calf. Anyone have suggestions? Just tapering the ankle at the side and inseams doesn’t work, FYI. haha.

Ginger Jeans + Silk Tank

Other than that one alteration, not a lot of changes to this pair. I added the length back and then removed about 2.5″ – I wanted them to be long enough to pool a little at the ankle. I used my original Ginger pattern – the one before it was updated with a pocket stay – and sewed the size 2 instead of the 4. Topstitching and all that is pretty simple – one color of jeans topstitching thread. I did add an X to one leg in lieu of a bartack. Kind of a riff on the + on my I+W jeans haha. What, they’re made of the same denim!

Silk Tank

This silk cami is something I made ages ago and completely forgot to photograph for my blog! It’s a Ruby Slip that I modified to include gathers at the bust and silk bias finishing on the edges and straps, and then shortened to cami length. I made this slip a couple of years ago out of some really amazing 4ply silk, and I love how it looks so it was only natural to use it for a cami pattern.

The silk I used is a really wonderful new silk from Organic Cotton Plus, called Peace Silk. I really love OCP and I’ve been happy with all the fabrics I’ve received from them, and this silk is pretty fantastic too. It’s a wonderful lightweight, organic silk, with a feel similar to a thicker china silk or a less crepey crepe de chine. Really easy to work with, and feels amaaaazing after a wash in the machine. It’s called Peace Silk because it’s produced in a way that does not kill the silk worm and instead allows it to emerge from the cocoon first. While I definitely have no problem eating meat or wearing animal fibers, I thought that was a pretty neat solution! Plus, the name just makes me happy πŸ™‚

That’s about all I have left to talk about, so here’s a bunch of pictures of my butt:

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

And some flat jeans shots:

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans

Everything was constructed on my Pfaff 7570, and topstitching was done on my Bernina 350PE. I used regular black poly thread for piecing, and Gutterman jeans topstitching thread for the topstitching. The aqua serging thread is just a fun color that matched my pocketing (which I got from the free fabric pile at A Gathering of Stitches because GOD it’s beautiful!) and my zipper (from the Garment District!). I wanted to add rivets, but they need to be trimmed down and I apparently don’t own wire cutters anymore, womp womp.

Overall: A+ jeans, would sew again (and I will – I have enough Cone Mills left to make a couple pairs of jorts! HA HA HA IT NEVER ENDS).

In closing, two things:

One, here is my Calvin Klein ~modeling~ shot. Can’t you see people just banging down my door to be a jeans model? Gah.

Ginger Jeans + Silk Tank

Two, the Spiegel 60609 winner! Yay! First of all, I cannot BELIEVE how many entries that giveaway got – over 1,100! That’s definitely the biggest one I’ve ever hosted on this blog (and I guess y’all agree with me that one should never say no to a free sewing machine, amirite). Thank you for blowing up my email last week and making me feel super duper popular haha. I enjoyed reading everyone’s comments – and yes, I read every single one of them! – but there can only be one winner:

winner1 winner2

Congratulations, thefilling!! I want to also mention that this comment filled me with delight – although, what is exactly is a snapback hat? (Can I see a picture? Can you tell me more about this cheeseburger print? We have a lot to discuss, dude) We will be in touch to get your new 60609 out to you ASAP πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€ Happy belated Valentine’s Day!

If you’re still trying to holler at the 60609, watch this space – I have some upcoming projects and tutorials that use the machine so you can see it in ~action~. And if you don’t care about the 60609, well, I hope you at least find the content interesting πŸ™‚

Have a great day, everyone!


75 Responses to “Completed: Ginger Jeans + Silk Cami”

  1. liz-o-matic February 15, 2016 at 7:49 am #

    Love it! I need to get my butt in gear and at least start to PLAN my Ginger jeans :-/ P.S. Being a teenager of the ’90s your CK shot is SUPER tame by my standards πŸ˜‰

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:15 am #

      Hahaha you’re right about that! There is definitely at least one thing that comes between me & my Calvins, lolol

  2. Indoor Kitty February 15, 2016 at 7:49 am #

    Tools! I know things about tools. Go to amazon. Type in Knipex Wire Cutters. Mop up the drool. The end nippers I have are fucking amazing. They cut through nails. The riveted snaps on Kitten’s too long overalls never saw it coming.

  3. patsijean February 15, 2016 at 8:37 am #

    I agree with you regarding the fitting issue over the calf. The fabric is trying to find room. As you don’t want to increase the size of the ankle any more, I would suggest a gentle widening of the inseam and outer seam of the back piece only, where needed, tapering back to the ankle. Kenneth King showed a similar hip adjustment in Threads a couple of years ago. The seam looked straight when the pants were worn, but the pants pattern looked a bit wonky in the flat. I am going to check out Threadbare Fabrics.

    • Mustavo Gaia February 15, 2016 at 7:16 pm #

      It seems pretty reasonable.
      About tampering on the ankle, I would try to taking only from the inseam.
      I am not sure about the knock knees, but certainly the solution will come from the inseam.
      I mean, the inseam seems to be the more stable line, and can be straighten allowing the most difficult adjustment to the outseam.
      And definitely a close fitting pattern in heavy fabric will not look terribly straight. There will be offsets.

      • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:20 am #

        All good points, thank you for your input!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:18 am #

      I’ll have to try that on my next pair! I did try to taper the seams when the jeans were sewn, but unfortunately I had already serged them so I couldn’t separate the back from the front. Next time, though! Thank you so much for the suggestion.

  4. vintage51 February 15, 2016 at 8:54 am #

    Reblogged this on and commented:
    The jeans and camisole turned out amazing!! I am not brave enough yet to make my own jeans, although I have tailored many pairs to fit me properly. Bravo to your superb sewing. Cheers, Michele

  5. My February 15, 2016 at 9:25 am #

    Those jeans look like they were purchased in a store, which is the look we all are looking for right? thanks for the fabric store reference, I would like to make jeans and it is good to know what denim fabric works well.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:21 am #

      For real! I think saying something looks RTW is a pretty high compliment πŸ™‚ And YES, that Cone Mills is pretty awesome stuff! You’ll love it!

  6. abailey0674 February 15, 2016 at 9:38 am #

    Wow!!! This pair is amazing. I may just have to try jeans. They look fabulous on you and I am pretty sure from reading your posts and seeing your photos that we are very similar in size and shape. I love reading your blog. I choose patterns that look good on you often 😍

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:22 am #

      Oh that’s awesome! I love when I find a blog body-double, it makes choosing patterns so much easier πŸ™‚

  7. ellegeemakes February 15, 2016 at 10:34 am #

    Fantastic jeans! I’ve wanted to make a pair of gingers for awhile but just haven’t managed to do it yet. Not sure why. Interesting information about the baggy knees. Your analysis makes sense.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:23 am #

      It feels a little intimidating at first with all the pieces and topstitching and stuff, but I promise the actual sewing part is super fun!

      • ellegeemakes February 16, 2016 at 12:59 pm #

        Good point. I know I’ll love the chance to do a good amount of top stitching πŸ™‚

  8. Dawn February 15, 2016 at 11:28 am #

    Love everything about this outfit!! And them boots is some cool!!! Also loving your hair right now Lauren, nicest Ive seen it πŸ™‚ xx

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:23 am #

      Thank you so much! I think my hair is reaching Peak Status these days hahahaha πŸ™‚

  9. Melissa C February 15, 2016 at 12:03 pm #

    Fab ensemble. I love both the ruby slip pattern and the ginger jeans pattern. Hmm…now thinking I defo need to whip up a similar outfit. πŸ˜‰
    I have the same bunchy knees thing going on with my gingers. Haven’t made another pair yet as I’ve been pondering the fitting. Came to the same conclusion as you. Was going to try basting from hip to knee, leaving the lower leg open then pinning to my desired skinny fit, expecting that my side seams won’t match anymore (but that’s the beauty of a wide SA?). Hoping this will accommodate the calf while also keeping the ankle skinny. πŸ€”

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:25 am #

      I would try that, but also add some extra width to the back piece before cutting it (with the slash and spread adjustment). I think as long as you take out excess from the BACK piece when you’re slimming down the ankle, it will keep the side seams nice and straight. I am going to experiment around when I make my next pair of pants, and hopefully I’ll have something good to report back!

  10. Bella February 15, 2016 at 12:37 pm #

    Those jeans look super pro. Think I might need to invest in pants for real people so that I can up my pant fitting skills. Seeing how great yours look is certainly motivation!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:29 am #

      Seriously, I consider that book my fitting bible! It’s such a wealth of information, and it’s yet to let me down. It rarely even makes it back to my bookshelf, because I’m always referencing from it!

  11. girlintheflammableskirt February 15, 2016 at 1:21 pm #

    Looks amazing! And your hair is especially gorgeous too!

    Have you tried drafting your own pant leg to address fitting issues? It might work better than trying to tweak the pattern. Also, one thing that worked for me doing jeans making is putting in a back leg seam, I had a lot of bag in the back of my legs too. It’s not for every pair, but a highwaisted back-seamed pair would be cute and I was told makes your legs look longer.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:33 am #

      Thank you! I’m feeling the hair these days πŸ™‚

      I’ve never really considered pattern drafting because, to be honest, it doesn’t appeal much to me. I’d rather try to wrangle a pattern into submission (I know that sounds ass-backwards, but on the flip side at least it gives me lots of practice with fitting and pattern adjustments, which is quite useful when I’m teaching these pants classes!). But you probably do have a point. I wonder about back leg seam too; I was wearing my Jamie Jeans yesterday and realized they don’t do the knee bunching… and they have a front seam. A high waisted pair with a back seam would be really cute!

      • girlintheflammableskirt February 19, 2016 at 1:44 am #

        I’m going to look trough my school stash and to find some drafting info for you, or I will xerox from my drafting book for you to peruse. You wouldn’t have to redo the entire pattern, but if you figured out how to draft the knee to ankle to fit you on your own, it might make the pattern wrangle more efficient. Although, tbh even in my class with a super experienced jeans maker, he advised the back seam option to adjust my drafted fit….so it may be a moot exercise after all. Generally in RTW I have to buy jeans that while fitting in the waist, are slightly tight in the hip/butt area to not be too baggy on my legs, so maybe the seam is the only way to rectify the fit discrepancies. I’m ready to try some experimenting though, there must be a middle ground.

  12. PsychicKathleen February 15, 2016 at 1:24 pm #

    Love the fit of your jeans and cami! Beautifully sewn and inspiring. I have the pattern and book to make a pair of ginger jeans I’m just such a baby about tackling them just yet. But you’ve inspired me for sure! Thank you for sharing your journey to get here and finished result.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:35 am #

      Thank you so much! I think you should just woman up and cut those Ginger jeans – you’ve got some wonderful resources at your arsenal, and seriously, JEANS ARE SO FUN TO MAKE. Like fun to the point of being almost addictive. You’ll never buy jeans again. It’s amazing!

  13. natalie/ hungryhippie February 15, 2016 at 1:44 pm #

    Those Gingers look amazing–I am so glad to see this post because bagging knees ALWAYS get me-and I think you just found the solution. My calves are muscular too, so perhaps that’s it! I have yet to cut into my denim to actually MAKE the Gingers, but I’m getting the courage up. You look fabulous and I love that cami! SILK. Need I say more?!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:45 am #

      Well it’s a good thing you haven’t cut into your denim because now you can do the extended calf adjustment! Woohoo! πŸ˜€ and YES, SILK. God it’s so good!

  14. Raquel from JC February 15, 2016 at 2:23 pm #

    Love your Ruby cami! your topstitching is really beautiful! Thanks for the recommendations about Nashville fabric stores: I ended going to Textile Fabrics and Craft South (got some nice fabrics!) I also had dinner at Hattie’s Chicken yum yum!!!! Next time I’ll hit the other stores.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:47 am #

      Oh awesome!! Isn’t Craft South the CUTEST little store!? Ugh, all of 12 South is so freaking adorable (it was always my dream neighborhood when I was growing up, and I’m so gutted that I’ll never be able to afford to live there now. But I can at least go hang out in the area haha). and YEAH HATTIE B’S. I’m so happy to hear that you had a great trip!

  15. feministgina February 15, 2016 at 3:19 pm #

    Last semester I had my students list items of clothing so we could sort them as an activity to help them organize their papers. When they said “snapbacks” I was like WTF is that, and they looked at me like I was an alien. They were like, it’s a hat that snaps at the back! So I asked for other characteristics of this hat and it turned out it was just a baseball hat with that adjustable tab. They were really relieved to find out I knew what they were talking about, haha – I think they really thought I was out of my mind to not know what this basic hat was! Now my question is how one sews them. That seems like a difficult project!

    Also, I love your jeans and I share your extended calf frustration. My Ginger muslin looked wacky below the knee after my alterations and I haven’t quite figured out how to fix it which is why I haven’t gotten around to making a real version.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:49 am #

      Hahaha! That’s so funny, I wonder why it gets a fancy name when it’s just a modification of something so basic. Well. Whatever, I still think a cheeseburger one would be beyond legit.

      What’s your Ginger muslins doing? Maybe we can find a solution to fix it!

    • Ryan February 16, 2016 at 3:07 pm #

      Most of the hats I’ve seen that are classified as a snapback are more in the “trucker hat” style than the “adjustable ball cap” but maybe that’s because for me a ball cap is the all fabric kind instead of the 70s foam front, mesh back style.

      At lease snapback is a descriptive term and I’m sure our parents had no idea what we meant by Trucker Hat.

      Also, new URL for the Ruby Slip (she changed her URL)

  16. Deborah February 15, 2016 at 7:02 pm #

    Thank you for the tip on the extended knee alteration. Have puzzled over this fitting issue for years and never would have thought that this was the solution. Your blog is a wonderful source for me!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:49 am #

      Yay! I’m so happy to help πŸ˜€

  17. Sabrina February 15, 2016 at 7:34 pm #

    I’m taking your workshop in March (sooo excited!!!) and I came across this denim fabric store in the comments from Angela Wolf’s designer jeans craftsy class. Pacific Blue Denims. They charge a processing fee on orders under 100 yards but if you got some friends together on an order it wouldn’t be as bad. Their selection is AMAZING however, and they do carry Cone Mills.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:51 am #

      Oh yay!! Can’t wait to make pants with you in March! πŸ˜€ We are gonna have a BLAST!

      I’ve heard about Pacific Blue Denims! I was a little put off by the processing fee, but that’s a good point on getting a big order together with some friends. Hm. Who wants to buy Cone Mills with me? Ha !

  18. Mustavo Gaia February 15, 2016 at 7:49 pm #

    I hate to comment on your jeans.
    You achieved some amazing results, but I see a lot of issues on them that almost make me crazy when I was learning how to do mine.
    So let’s go:
    – I am not sure about the knock knees, but a close fitting pattern for you demands some offsets.
    To diagnose, trace a line with chalk in the middle of the front, then wear it again. The line should pass through the center of your thigh, of your knee and your chin. In your case, this line will get a “strong” bent below your knee. The bunching is the result of this bench.
    The solution goes by trying to straighten the line – not to make it entirely straight but to soften the bent. Some of that would come from the alteration suggested by patsijean. Another step is the tampering on the ankle more on the inseam. Yes, your pattern will look strange, but it worths a try in a simpler fabric.
    – The yoke could be shorter. This will allow to the backpocket top to be aligned with the ftont pocket. Or just set the back pocket a little higher. A reference would be that the yoke sticht would be in between the front pocket sticht and the bottom waist band.
    – You can get a “upping” effect if the back outseam received a little curve. It would start gently by the side tack. And maybe some more by around the yoke.
    – Finally, as i carry keys and some “heavy” things on the front pocket, I prefer to fold and stitch over the bottom of the front pocket lining.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:54 am #

      No, these are great suggestions and I appreciate the comment! I will definitely consider these for my next pair and see if I can get an even better result with some more alterations πŸ™‚ Thank you!

      • Mustavo Gaia February 17, 2016 at 6:15 pm #

        – Have you tried it on a lighter/stretchier denim?

        – Have you tried to extend the pocket lining, like about 4cm, into the zipper stitching? It helps to stabilize around the waist band, specially on the button. In some cases it creates a more uniform tension avoid some strange pulls on the side seam. Something like that:

        – And finally in the realm of desperate attempts, one can make a mock up version of the pants, even in the final fabric, but stitching with a larger stitch and with the wrong side together. It is easier to see and make the alterarions. Making provisional stitches and try the jeans on the inside outside has a similar effect.

  19. Ines February 15, 2016 at 10:28 pm #

    These jeans are amazing! Between these and the great jean jacket you made you are the Queen of Jean seamstress. As usual I greatly enjoy reading all you comments and as I read how you still don’t think these are perfect I am here to tell you you have entered the “what on earth is she talking about correcting ” zone. They are perfect!!! Although reading all your dissecting of the garment is what makes your blog so much fun!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 11:56 am #

      Woohoo for being Queen of Jean! I like that title πŸ˜€

      And you’re right – they are perfect enough (seriously!) but the best part about sewing is figuring out all the little kinks and making the next one even better. I hope I never ever ever stop learning πŸ™‚

  20. groovylittlecity February 16, 2016 at 2:16 am #

    I have the Birkin pattern but haven’t made it, yet. In fact, I haven’t made any pants, yet. This is an important thing for me to learn how to do because dresses and skirts and me just do not get along. But then I see a blog post like this and I am all, like, “You’ll never look like that in a pair of jeans again in this lifetime. Why even bother learning how to sew them? You’ll just be disappointed.”

    But then I tell myself that, really, that voice is actually coming from my duct tape dummy, which I made 1 1/2″ in the waist ago, and she just doesn’t want to be replaced.

    Great job (no surprise their), and that top is really cute!

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 12:01 pm #

      Well, if it makes you feel any better – I probably won’t ever look like this in a pair of jeans again, either! πŸ™‚ I just try to accept how I look now, and not dwell on past versions of me because it’s a losing battle.

      I think your duct tape dummy needs to realize her days are numbered and she’s definitely overdue for a replacement!

  21. nycbookwriter February 16, 2016 at 9:10 am #

    I finished my second Cone Mills in a flared Ginger (which is really the Ginger + Sew U + Nessa) . . . maroon top stitching, brass rivets, and red flowers up the leg (i.e. I got them in Turkey and decided to add them after the legs were sewn . . . don’t do that).

    While mine look nice, I will say that A) please eat a cheeseburger. B) you look really, really good chicka.

    We’ve both been on a cami run lately . . . Camis are good. Very good.

    • LLADYBIRD February 16, 2016 at 12:03 pm #

      Oh man, those sound amazing! I need to add some flair (and flare) to my future jeans. I used to wear shit like that in high school and I loved it so much.

      • nycbookwriter February 16, 2016 at 1:36 pm #

        Give me a week or so. I’ll post a pic. πŸ˜‰

  22. kelly February 16, 2016 at 5:10 pm #

    These jeans came out so great! Actually, I’m loving this whole post… the links to the pants fitting details, the peace silk, and the denim sources (aggh, my current most worn pants have the worst bunching and sagging after just a few hours of wear!). Anyway, I rarely comment, but I love your blog! thanks!

  23. Donna February 16, 2016 at 7:25 pm #

    Wish I had the guts or self-confidence (not to mention the sewing acumen) to make a pair of jeans. I can’t imagine all the alterations that would be needed to make them fit perfectly. I’ll probably stick with my Levis. *sigh*

    I do have a question about silk. I have never even considered sewing silk or silk blend fabrics. If I can’t machine wash and dry a fabric, it’s too high maintenance for me. Who wants to spend time hand-washing garments? I have a washer and dryer for that. Or paying for dry cleaning? Nah, that’s not happening. So how do you care for your silk? Am I living in the past? Is silk machine washable these days?

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 4:53 pm #

      Hey, if the Levis give you a good fit right off the rack – I’d stick with those too! I just have a hard time finding jeans that fit me (that aren’t massively expensive) so I have to sew them πŸ˜€

      To answer your question – not me! I don’t hand wash hardly any of my garments, except lingerie and *very* special pieces (very few of those in my wardrobe, FYI haha). Silk is totally machine-washable as long as you pre-wash it in the machine first, to get the shrinkage out πŸ™‚ I wash on cold and dry on regular heat before I cut it up, and then treat the existing garment as a wash cold/hang-dry (only because silk does wrinkle in the dryer and I don’t want to iron it, ha). There is also really great hand-washing soap that doesn’t need to the rinsed – you just soak for 20-30 minutes and then hang to dry. Which is what I use for my lingerie and delicate garments πŸ™‚ I use a brand called Soak, but there are lot of different ones to check out!

      • Donna February 26, 2016 at 8:54 pm #

        Thanks for the info, Lauren. I WAS living in the past! Maybe there’s some silk in my future after all now that I know how to take care of it.Thanks, again!

  24. beebeesvintagedress February 17, 2016 at 1:18 am #

    Lauren, I love this outfit! The jeans look great and thanks for working out that weird baggy knee problem, I get that in ready to wear all the time! I think length has something to do with it for me as well though. Wish we could get cone mill here in the UK! They look fabulous!

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 4:54 pm #

      Guess you’ll have to come visit here and get some shipped πŸ™‚ Haha! (seriously, though!)

  25. Becky Thompson February 17, 2016 at 5:40 am #

    Let me start by saying, Yay for cute pockets and cute underwear! ha Also, the term is “stacked” for the additional fabric at the ankle vs. pooled. I used to work at Shepler’s Western Wear 100 years ago back in the 90’s so I’m somewhat of an expert at jeans terminology…at least in Texas anyway! LOL The problem at the knee is not that you’re knock-knee’d; it’s the opposite. Now I’m not being ugly but you’re a bit bow-legged, bless your heart. So the fabric on the outside (left and right sides vs. front/back) of the knee area is being pulled to the outside. Instead of length or width changes to the pant, consider a slightly different curvature on the shape. The pattern is probably straight – and you’re not. πŸ™‚ And, according to the article below, brace yourself for osteoarthritis in your inner knees. Hey, don’t kill the messenger; I’m just sayin’.

    • Becky Thompson February 17, 2016 at 6:02 am #

      So I checked you out a bit closer…(sorry). Bow legs are caused by the femur (upper leg bone) sitting at an extended outward angle in the hip socket. In the 4th picture, your left leg appears to be straight in the hip as it should be, but the right has a slight outward curvature that is more pronounced than the left. Is it just the one pant leg that bunches badly? (My son was born with knock-knees and I spent many hours with an orthopedic surgeon going over options in his formative years). Maybe this is a new challenge to create a muslin specifically for your individual leg shape? Wrangler 13MWZ Cowboy Cut jeans are specifically designed for cowboys on a horse and they allow room for straddling a large animal which creates an outward curvature of the leg while riding. I’ve hemmed many of these and the hem is not perfectly horizontal – there is an 1/8-1/4″ angle to it downward to the outside seam. There’s also more room in the seat to allow sitting comfortably in a saddle.

      • LinB February 17, 2016 at 11:11 am #

        13MWZs are certainly a staple jeans for all and sundry! They are an iconically American garment. Best-seller ever for Wrangler, they were indeed designed by cowboys, for cowboys. And, the patented no-twist twill weave denim means that they won’t warp or twist around your legs, no matter how many generations you pass them down to. They wear like iron.

        Disclaimer: I used to work for Wrangler advertising, in the dark ages before we were bought by Vanity Fair. I well remember the name Sheplers from some co-op advertising campaigns in the 1980s. What a great store!

      • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 4:59 pm #

        Hm, this definitely gives me something to consider with my next pair! I never even thought about having bow legs, but those are some good points! I’ll have to see how the bunching affects each individual leg, and play around with the curvature to see if I can get them to match my shape and not bunch. Thank you for the tips! Now fingers crossed that I don’t end up with some horrible osteoarthritis in the future (although, I’d rather it be my legs than my HANDS. Can you imagine? NOPE NOPE NOPE) haha

  26. Amanda February 18, 2016 at 10:58 am #

    these are great. I’ve only finished one pair of Gingers (so far) and they’re the skinny version. They fit great…but was thinking I’d slash and spread the calf on the next pair. My right calf is just slightly bigger than my left and it’s noticible in this pair. I’ve toyed with whether to slash and spread the pattern piece to use for both legs, or make separate right and left leg pieces. But, having the ankles match would be important – which I hadn’t considered until you pointed out the wider ankles on your pair;-)

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 5:00 pm #

      Yeah, matching the ankles would be important! πŸ™‚ I reckon you could get away with doing separate legs if we could figure out a way to re-narrow the ankles. Something to play around with, I guess!

  27. frenie February 19, 2016 at 3:01 am #

    I have this pattern making in my “to sew” list as well :). Like you, I fell in love at first sight

  28. Sandra February 19, 2016 at 7:50 am #

    Thank you SO MUCH for your link for the extended calf alteration ! I think I need this too for my Ginger’s. That’s what happens when ladies are doing too much squats and lunges xD

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 5:01 pm #

      You are so welcome! And YAY for having strong calves :DDD

  29. Kayse February 21, 2016 at 7:24 pm #

    This jeans are crazy gorgeous!!! The cami is beautiful too! I am terrified of attempting jeans, they seems so difficult.

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 5:02 pm #

      Thank you! Jeans are difficult, just a little bit more time-consuming πŸ™‚ I think they’re fun to make!

  30. shesewsswell February 22, 2016 at 4:05 pm #

    One of the many things I know….. Is that I’m a gonna have to take A LOT of notes in pant making class. I better start sharpening up my pencils. Now that I’m back from Baja, I can get more excited about NYC!!!

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 5:02 pm #

      Yess!!! Class will be here so soon πŸ˜€

  31. Christy Peeples DuBois February 25, 2016 at 11:09 am #

    Before I read your post I was scrolling through your pictures and thought gosh those jeans look like they were made just for you and that I wanted to know the brand to look into getting a pair. Then I read the post and am most impressed that you made them yourself and also sad that I can’t just go order me a pair to look that good on me. You did an excellent job.

    • LLADYBIRD February 25, 2016 at 5:03 pm #

      Thank you so much! πŸ™‚


  1. Upcoming Classes: Let’s Hang Out + Sew! | LLADYBIRD - June 22, 2016

    […] as what impresses people the mostπŸ˜‰ You can see my Gingers here – skinnies, Cone Mills 1, Cone Mills 2, gold denim, red stretch twill, and Jorts! The pattern that goes on forever, […]

  2. Completed: Navy Cotton Twill Ginger Pants | LLADYBIRD - November 1, 2016

    […] it has been WAY too long since I made a pair of pants – according to my blog, that last pair was published in a February! LAME, TIME TO RECTIFY […]

  3. 2016: A Year In Review | LLADYBIRD - December 31, 2016

    […] Bias silk cami Love black camis, love this silk, do not love pleats over my boobs. […]

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