Oh hells yes it’s time for another swimsuit. SWIMSUITS FOREVERRRRR.
I actually finished this a couple weeks ago, but I’m just now getting around to posting it. Whoops! This is swimsuit #2 of my summer swim gear (if you missed #1, you can see it here). Not that my old swimsuits needed to be replaced (I have three in addition to what I’ve made this year – one two three – yep, all my swimsuits are handmade at this point. Livin’ the dream!), but they’re REALLY fun to make! Can’t stop, won’t stop.
In fact, I have a third one already cut. No idea when I’ll get to that one, but its my American Flag Bikini Fit for a Beer Commerical, soooo hopefully sooner than later, ha. That is the suit that will be necessary for lazy days floating down the river.
So anyway, let’s talk about the swimsuit at hand. This particular goody is the Alison swimsuit from Burdastyle. This is I think maybe the second Burdastyle pattern I’ve ever sewn (the first was a Bombshell dress – which I don’t know if that *really* counts, because I followed an online course to make it so I wasn’t at the mercy of the instructions). I know they’re kind of a rite of passage for a lot of us sewers who thrive on the internet, but I’ve never been a huge fan of PDFs (hate taping them, hate storing them, bleeech) and I’ve heard horror stories about the ones that come out of Burdastyle. Most of the patterns don’t include seam allowances, and pretty much everybody complains about the instructions, or lack thereof. I’ve done pretty well with getting the looks I want from patterns that don’t have these issues, so skipping the BS (lol that abbreviation) hasn’t been a huge issue. Until I saw this swimsuit, anyway, and realized that I was gonna have to woman up and make shit happen.
Alison is a cute little retro-inspired one piece swimsuit, with a halter neck, gathered bust section, and a healthy bit of butt coverage. While this would be a REALLY cute style for pretty much all sizes and shapes, it unfortunately only comes in sizes S, M & L. I would guess it probably wouldn’t be too difficult to grade up another size or two – the few pieces in the pattern are all pretty simple – but I’d definitely make a mock-up first if you decide to go that route. I’m actually between sizes according to the size chart, so I just traced a line right between the Small and Medium and used that as my ~custom Lauren size~. Worked out pretty well, I think!
While I did not make any fit alterations to this pattern – there are a LOT of reviews that the body of the suit is really really short. I’m pretty petite and everything fits quite well, both length and width wise, which is good because I didn’t see those reviews until after I’d cut out the suit. Also, if you’re thinking about making this pattern – the seam allowances ARE included! Praise the Lord!
The instructions, on the other hand. Woof.
In all honesty, this almost ended up being The Swimsuit That Never Was, because the instructions are pretty confusing and hard to decipher! When I first downloaded the pattern, I noticed that there were a couple pages of instructions as well as some photos. I thought that was pretty awesome and I felt confident that this pattern would not live up to the Burdastyle tales of caution (especially since, like I said, it was fancy enough to have the seam allowances included). THIS WAS ALL A LIE. The instructions don’t make a lick of sense, at least not from what I could tell, and there aren’t any notches or markings to help you assemble the pieces together (which can sometimes save a shitty set of instructions). I spent a lot of time pin-basting pieces together, re-opening the PDF instructions and zooming in on pictures, reading the complaint comments on the Burdastyle site (had I read those first, I probably wouldn’t have even attempted this shit, tbh) and feeling sorry for myself for wasting a perfectly good piece of black swimsuit lycra.
Fortunately, a bit of googling around led me to this blog post with instruction clarification, as well as a list of the steps needed to actually put together the damn swimsuit. Of course, as of this writing (you know, a whole 2 weeks later), it appears that the post has been taken down so unfortunately that’s not really gonna help anyone. And being as how I made of this suit flying by the seat of my pants, I don’t really remember the specific steps needed to actually finish the damn thing. SORRY, I’M LIKE THE MOST UNHELPFUL BLOGGER EVER GAH. To be fair, the only really confusing part for me was the gathered bodice – because of the lack of pattern markings, I couldn’t figure out which way to fold it or where to sew my gathering stitches. Once I figured that out (it gets folded in half vertically, fyi – so it perfectly fits in the front suit scoop without being stretched), the rest of the suit was pretty easy to figure out. If you’ve sewn a swimsuit before and understand how to insert the elastic and all that, then you can probably figure this one out.
The black swimsuit lycra I used is old from my stash. I also lined the entire suit, except for the gathered bodice (which is self-lined by folding back one big piece of lycra after gathering). I was able to squish some swimsuit-friendly cups in the bodice before closing it up – this was as easy as trying the suit on before sewing the lining closed, positioning the cups, and then zigzagging them into place. The original pattern back strap is supposed to tie closed, but I don’t like having big lumps on my back sooo I just cut it as one piece and connected to both sides of the back. I wish I’d had the foresight to position the strap so that it doesn’t cross over the back binding and instead goes under it, but, eh, hindsight is 20/20 and at least I know for next time. The halter closes with a swimsuit hook, rather than tying because, again, don’t like having big lumps on my back.
Here are some flat/inside shots. I would have loved to have a hook that wasn’t bright white, but white was what I had in my stash so I made do with (not that you can even really see it when I’m wearing it, anyway). The lining I’m especially proud of – I was able to origami the whole thing so that the only exposed seams are the side seams up by the bust. Everything else is encased within the lining, yay! The leg holes are finished with swimsuit elastic and topstitched with a zigzag stitch.
ANYWAY, all construction issues aside – the pattern itself is pretty all right, and I’m happy with how it eventually turned out! I’ve always wanted a black retro-style bathing suit, so I can lay on the beach with my fancy adult beverage and floppy sun hat and feel like a Classy Lady, and I feel like this suit really fits that image to a T (me in the suit, now that’s another discussion for another day, ha!). I can’t wait to try my suits out at the beach this weekend. This suit feels pretty secure and like it won’t have any wardrobe malfunctions, but I always get a little nervous the first time I wear a handmade swimsuit out. You never know what’s going to decide to disintegrate once it hits the water and leave you nakey on the beach. Not that that’s EVER happened to me (or anyone I know, for that matter), but I have a healthy fear nonetheless haha.
In other news – it’s my birthday today! Yay!! I’m celebrating the dirty 30 this year, and I’m pretty happy to finally be able to say good-bye to my 20s. My early 20s were a total shitshow, my mid-20s were basically me rebelling against myself, and my late 20s have been spent cleaning up the mess I left in my own wake. I feel pretty good about this new decade and I’ll be celebrating it good and proper with my BFF when we’re in Peru next month! (have I been talking about Peru too much? Whatever, dudes, I’ve been planning this trip for a year! Sorry, not sorry! ahhahaahaha!).
Hope y’all have a lovely weekend! I’m beach-bound as of tomorrow morning, and I cannot WAIT.
Happy birthday, Lauren! All the best on the DAY and on your trip to Peru.
Thank you! 🙂
And another great swim suit! That retro look I’d lovely!
Happy birthday!
Awesome swimsuit. More awesome is wrangling it out of the Burda instructions! I just finished a BurdaStyle shirt & the instructions confused me so much I just used the headings as a construction guide & did what seemed sensible.
That’s much easier for a shirt… can’t imagine a swimsuit!
Thank you!
And yeah, the instructions were horrifying. Fortunately, I have a bit of experience sewing swimsuits, but it’s always nice to have the steps listed out while you’re making something. Oh well, at least it turned out haha
Happy birthday!
Thank you!
Ok. Ok. This is rich. First, happy birthday. Two: I made that swimsuit in Star Spangled Fabric!! http://wp.me/ppI0L-5e The directions were a mess back then. AND, I also made a bikini (not for me) from Star Spangled fabric. http://wp.me/ppI0L-5j Finally, cute swimmers. I love it in black. Very cool and retro.
UMMMM THAT IS AMAZING. now I kind of wish I’d saved this pattern for the American flag fabrics, too! (although I do love the black) And that bikini is like the patriotic bikini of my dreams. So perfect. We are totally on the same wavelength, even years ago hahaha
Happy birthday! You’ll love your 30s.
Thank you! I’m looking forward to them 😀
Great swimsuit! I wish it had a larger size range!
Happy birthday! That’s exactly how I felt about leaving my 20s behind. I’m 35 in November and finding my 30s to be amazing. It’s really been great, actually! 🙂 Yeay 30s!
Yeah, it’s a bummer about the size range – maybe this will kick them in the pants to grade up? Maybe?
And thank you! I’ve been hearing that the 30s are amazing so I’m pretty pumped about this birthday 😀
Bummer on both the sizing and crappy instructions as I pretty much need that exact suit in a bunch of colors as every bathing suit for the rest of my life. Unfortunately I’m not an experienced enough seamstress, nor have I ever sewn a swimsuit before to go it alone with some too small pattern pieces.
I do love your version. Happy birthday, wear it well!
Yeah, it’s a bummer. But I wouldn’t discount it forever! You might eventually get to the comfort level of sewing a swimsuit, and just because the sizes aren’t there *now* doesn’t mean that they might not eventually get graded up (I’m just trying to be hopeful here). I feel like you could probably grade it if you had an existing bathing suit or bodysuit pattern in your size to compare with; it’s not a super complicated pattern. So there’s that!
And thank you! 🙂
Happy Birthday! Your blog is so inspiring. That is a fantastic swim suit!
Thank you!!
Happy Birthday! That suit is rockin’! And you are rockin’ in it!
Woohoo! Thank you!
Have a great birthday and LOVE this suit, so hard to find a cute one piece.
Thank you! I agree, cute one pieces tend to be few and far in between!
Sorry this pattern was such a little bitch! The end result is pretty damn classic though! And you look fantastic in it. Happy Birthday, and have fun at the beach and omigod so jealous of Peru!!!
Thank you so much! yeah, it was a bitch – but she was worth it in the end, so that’s awesome 🙂 AND YAY PERU. Cannot wait!!
Happy Birthday! Mine is Tuesday–the big 50, like Sally O’Malley. I have a feeling your 30s (and my 50s) are going to be fantastic!
Ohhhh, happy early birthday! I agree, I think your 50s are going to be AWESOME!!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! May your 30’s be better than your 20’s….although 30 years is when your warranty expires, so be prepared for mysterious aches and pains 😉
Ha! I’ve been noticing those leading up to today – so THAT’S what that is! Good to know hahahahahaa 🙂
Happy Birthday!! 😀 😀 😀
‘__’ to both Burdastyle and Kitty Couture (despite the whole lovely kitty thing). What on earth.
Thank you!! And yeah, I have no idea! Maybe she’s just redoing her blog and the post will eventually resurface? Can’t speak for Burdastyle, though hahahah
Happy Birthday!!!
Thank you!
I hate making Burda patterns but this is quite cute on you. But more importantly, HAPPY BIRTHDAY YOU BEAUTIFUL CREATURE!!! Hope it’s fabulous. xoxooxoxo
Thank you!!! 😀
Happy Birthday! The bathing suit looks lovely!
Thank you!
Lovely swimsuit. Definitely classy in theory and in execution. You look great. Bad on Burda for not listening to their customers and improving their instructions.
Happy birthday! Your 30s will be AWESOME!!!!!!
Thank you so much! I’m looking forward to them :DD
Happy Birthday! Your suit is fabulous.
Thank you!!
Happy Birthday (and love the swimsuit) x
Thank you!
A very happy birthday! Enjoy it in style, classy lady hat, adult beverage and all!
Of course, we hardy Germans were raised on Burda instructions (or winging it, as we call it 😉 ) I guess they lose in translation whatever little stubstance there might have been in the first place, so I don’t envy anyone trying their luck with English Burda…
Thank you! And hey, what you’re describing now makes you sound like a sewing magician! I guess everything is easy if you were raised doing things the hardest way possible, ha 🙂
Happy birthday! I love this suit, but I’m not sure if I want to deal with the crummy instructions, plus the resizing I think would be required. But it looks amazing on you!
Thank you! I bet you could wing it, but I totally understand not wanting to go through the stress 🙂
Happy, wonderful, fabulous birthday, Lauren! This is one bombshell-licious suit — very pinup 40’s. I’ve actually gotten my (very basic) sewing machine (that is still in its box…) out to my new house. Now, to find a place to put it, AND use it. I’ll be checking out your lair for inspirations —
Thank you! And, oh man, finding space for that machine should be a PRIORITY! I think that the first thing I did when I saw this house – map out my sewing room! Even before we figured out what wall the bed was going on, hahaha
Happy birthday, lady!
I LOVE this swimsuit on you. Totally making this some day, hopefully soon. Have a great day xxx
Thank you, ma’am!
And YES, this suit would look amaaaazing on you! Do it!!
Happy Birthday! Had you been born two days later, you would have been exactly 9 months younger than me. Which doesn’t really seem important, but I like numbers.
Your suit looks amazing! I was drooling over that pattern last summer, but then bought the Closet Case Bombshell and decided I don’t go swimming enough to need two retro inspired swimsuits. Maybe once I get that cottage on the ocean I have in my daydreams then I can have a hundred suits, each more extravagant than the last.
And Wow! Trip to Peru with your BFF? Yay!!! My BFF went without me a few years ago, but she brought me back Alpaca socks, so that made up for it. I want to hear more details as the trip gets closer!
Haha that’s funny 🙂 Well, a VERY belated happy 30th to you 🙂
I love the Bombshell! And it’s much more forgiving – both in terms of sizing options and included instructions – than this suit, so I think you made a good choice. Once you get that cottage, though, I’m inviting myself over, hope that’s ok 🙂 haha!
We are SUPER excited about Peru! You better believe I’m going to buy ALL THE ALPACA that I can get my hands on! I am doing some mad pre-vacation sewing leading up to, so hopefully at the very least I’ll have that to talk about here on the blog 🙂
Happy birthday!
You’re one brave lady showing off this lovely make on your blog. I might have a go at some swimwear, if I wasn’t so worried about debuting it to the world.
Thank you!
Ha, well, you could always make the suit and just not model it on the internet 🙂 I personally dont’ get anything out of seeing flat shots, which is why i model mine (and I figure it’s not too different than wearing the thing out in public, which is gonna happen!), but I don’t think badly of anyone who prefers not to have photos of themselves like that on the internet 🙂
I love this swimsuit. I had a similar one in my teens in lilac and I have never found another one. Unfortunately my sewing skills are not quite up to it yet, maybe I could crochet one, or maybe not!! Mary x
Ooh, lilac would be so pretty! I wish I was better at crocheting, because this lady needs a crochet bikini STAT hahaha
And I agree with the others that have commented: your 30s will be much more fun than your 20s x
Oh, pretty pretty suit for a pretty, pretty woman. Happy birthday — and remember that your 30s don’t start until the first day you turn 31. This is the last year of the decade of your 20s.
I DO know someone whose suit turned invisible when it got wet — and it was planned that way. In the 80s, a graphic designer at Wrangler advertising (where I worked for a time) took a commission from Cole of California. She painted a beautiful, purple orchid. Cole of California printed it as a giant design on the front of a simple, white, unlined, maillot. When you wore it into water, the white fabric essentially disappeared (on White people, anyway) and left you with what looked like a giant tattoo of an orchid on your torso. This was in an age before women removed hair from their nether regions … the designer was shocked and appalled at how her painting was used. I laugh every time I remember it.
Nooooo I want my 30s to start today! I’m SO OVER my 20s hahaha 🙂
That swimsuit sounds amazing! I dont’ think I’m brave enough to ever rock something like that while wet – but man, i’d love to see it! That is hilarious hahaha
It was Catalina, not Cole’s. Couldn’t find an image of the orchid suit, but found one for sale on Etsy that has giant bright daisies. Same suit, different flower.
Yay! Happy Birthday! So excited for you Lauren! (as well as you’re awesome trip to Peru!) However, turns out we’re not moving as soon as I thought, so I’ll definitely be creepin trying to get some more sewing/fitting lessons with you before the year is over. I’m kind of diving in to sewing for me, but it’s rough girl. You make it look so easy! I’m sure i’ll get there though, but in the mean time i’ll just keep admiring your work. ❤
Woohooo thank you!!
And hey, that is awesome news that your move is a bit delayed (well, I hope it’s awesome on your end, too haha)! You can totally creep and get some more sewing and fitting lessons in! Are you kidding me, it was SO much fun sewing with you! And it totally gets easier the more you do it (sewing, I mean, but I guess the same could be said for creepin haha), promise!
Happy Birthday! Your swimsuit looks great! (And you can talk all you want about Peru!)
Thank you! 🙂
Happy Birthday!
Thank you!
Happy Birthday! I enjoyed being in my 30’s so much more than my 20’s. The years in the 50’s kind of suck though. Love the swimsuit!! I enjoy reading your blog. You have a great sense of humor to go with all of your sewing talent.
Thank you so much! Man, that sucks about the 50s, but thankfully I have a good 20 years before I have to worry about those hahahaha 🙂
My aunt crocheted a cotton bikini and the first time she wore it, it shrunk on her! Luckily she was with her sisters in their backyard, but my mom loves telling the story.
THAT IS THE BEST STORY EVER! hahahaha!!
Cute suit! But I’m really curious where you got that necklace – hopefully somewhere with an internet storefront?
It’s from Rocksbox! It’s a jewelry subscription service where you have the option to buy the pieces (and I totally ended up buying that necklace because it’s amaaazing haha). If you sign up with the code lladybirdxoxo, you can get a free month to try it out. I would assume they probably still have that necklace, because I got mine pretty recently 🙂
Happy birthday, babe! LOVE this suit on you. So classy!
I wish I had your foresight — I realized about a week ago that I’m going to Iceland very soon (hot springs every day!) and I don’t have a single one-piece I like and it’s too late to sew one.
Hope you have a blast in Peru in your new swimwear! 🙂
Thank you!
Ahh, girl, that’s a bummer about the time restraint but I can’t feel sorry for you because ICELAND. Sooo jealous!! I hope you plan on photo-ing the shit out of your trip because I want to live vicariously through you!
I know, right? I’ve really got nothing to complain about. 😛
I am sure there will be gazillions of pics — and I hope to see the same from Peru!
I’ve had this suit cut out for over a year (maybe more). I need to get off my ass and sew it up. Question…. did you regular poly thread or wooly nylon to sew it?
I just used regular poly thread! The only time I use wooly nylon is for my bobbin when I’m sewing with a twin needle 🙂
ALSO, HAPPY BIRTHDAY! I’m knee deep in my 30’s and so far it’s been pretty fabulous… you’re definitely going to love it.
Woohoo, thank you!!
Welcome to your 30’s, Lauren. Happy Birthday! 😀
Thank you! 😀
First, Happy Birthday! Second, kudos to you, the suit looks great and you beat the instructions. I didn’t; my attempt is lurking in my UFO pile where I threw it about three years ago.
Thank you! Now dig that suit out and make it up 😛 hahahah!
Happy Birthday! Love your suit and you look fabulous in it.
Thank you!
Happy Birthday! 30s are the new 20s… you’re gonna love it!
Nice swimsuit. Shame about the instructions, hey.
Thank you! 😀
I found this Burdastyle page:
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/alison/instructions/1
That says “The following instructions were inspired by and reworked from a pattern review by KittyCouture. She really knows how to make a suit!” It also references the link to the missing blog page, but perhaps all is not lost.
Oh, that is helpful! Wish I’d see that when I was making mine haha
Happy birthday!! The suit looks fab, I’m definitely more intrigued about hand making lingerie and swimsuits now!
Thank you!
And YAAASSS for handmade swimwear/lingerie! You should try it! You’ll never be able to go back to the store bought stuff!
Happy Birthday! Another great swimsuit! I printed out this pattern a few years ago when it was free but never got around to making it. I should probably try it out since the final swimsuit looks so awesome!
Thank you! You should try it – horrible instructions aside, it is a great pattern 🙂
Happy Birthday! Thanks for your honesty regarding your 20s. Who has not been there, done that. The years keep getting better, I guarantee that!
Thank you! That’s so good to hear – the past few years have been good, so I’m looking forward to even better! 🙂
Super duper happy birthday to you lovely lady! I can tell you that being in your thirties is even better than that swimming costume, and that is saying something! Xxx
Yay, thank you! That does say a lot! 😀
Happy birthday! I turned 30 in August and was also glad to say good riddance to those damn 20s. Also, I’m currently testing a swimsuit pattern, and now you have me paranoid that I might end up nekkid by the pool if I dare go in. Maybe I will test it in the tub to make sure I don’t end up an unintentional exhibitionist…
Totally amazing! Just adorable on you. Welcome to your 30’s. I hope you have a most splendid day! You inspire me tremendously! Thank you for your great blog!
Happy birthday! My dear friend told me when I turned thirty that it only gets better and better. Next you’ll turn thirty-one-derful, then thirty-two-good-to-be-true, thirty-three-some, thirty-four-play, thirty-high-five!!!!, thirty-sex, thirty-heaven, thirty-gr-eight, thirty-fine, and Lordy! So, lots more good times coming up. 🙂 Very classy suit.
Happy Birthday!! May thirties be the best yet. God bless!
Happy birthday! The suit looks amazing! Super classy. I hope you have a floppy hat 🙂
That looks fantastic!
HAPI, HAPI!!! Yeay!!! Balloons here and here and confetti here!!! I love the suit, it’s such a classic.
Happy birthday! Have a great weekend.
Happy Birthday! You got a great swimsuit out of a terrifyingly bad pattern.
I made it 3 years ago (http://brownpaperpattern.blogspot.com/2012/08/when-swimwear-attacks-burda-alison.html) and I’ve often wondered if I was so confused because I hadn’t been sewing all that long at the time. I’m glad to read your review, and have it confirmed that the pattern is just terrible, without having to take out the pattern and see if it makes sense to me now!
I would like to say that the Alison, and quite a few of the patterns that showed up on the Burda website while they were all free are a little strange, and not like the usual magazine patterns. Those instructions are sparse, and maybe don’t make TONS of sense, but they’re not getting in your way either. To balance it out, they are usually drafted very well with just enough notches to make it go together with only some hair pulling.
Ooh, I like how you crossed the straps in the back! Wish I’d thought of that when I was making mine, ha 🙂
I’m loving all of your suits! And happy 30th birthday. As someone who has lived through 6 and a half decades, I can say with all honesty that the 30s was my absolute favorite decade so enjoy!
Wow! Your bathing suit looks amazing! Well done!
Beautiful