Hey guys and gals! Remember this coat we all made fun of?
Then remember when I tried it on and realized it was actually amazing?
YAY $10K DESIGNER COAT!!
Well, here’s the thing. I want this dang Ralph Rucci coat for my very own – and I want to make it. After chatting with The McCall Pattern Company – and realizing that a lot of y’all are hankering for your own Ralph Rucci Dream Coat – we’ve decided to partner up together and host a sewalong for Vogue 1419! LET’S ALL MAKE FANCY DESIGNER COATS, Y’ALL!
The sewalong officially kicks off on 9/29, which gives you plenty of time to buy your pattern and begin sourcing fabrics. Don’t worry – the first couple of weeks will be nice and slow, with tips on fabric selection (and yes, I’m working on snagging y’all a sweet discount!), muslin-making, and prepping all your pieces so we can dive straight into sewing in mid-October. We will finish our coats on 11/10, with a finished coat parade on 11/17. The sewalong posts will alternate weekly between here and on The McCall Pattern Blog, so make sure you’re following both!
Keep in mind that while this is a coat pattern – it’s not a traditional tailored coat, so there will be no scary pad stitching or lining (although I will be underlining my version, so we’ll have some tips on that as well š ). While I wouldn’t recommend this pattern to a true beginner, I think a super adventurous/advanced beginner could probably swing this – just make a muslin, take your time and aim for accuracy! We’ll be photographing every step, which will make construction easier (and of course, the posts will be up indefinitely if you decide that you need to revisit your couture coat dreams at a later date š ). The McCall Pattern Company has lots of interior shots of the coat in this Pinterest board if you want to see more of the deets. It’s a really beautiful coat that lends itself to lots of fun customization!
Here’s the full schedule of events:
9/22/2014 Social media: official hashtags, Flickr group, Pinterest board & blog badges
9/29/2014 Selecting your fabric
10/6/2014 Making your muslin
10/13/2014 Prep week: cutting your fabric; marking your pattern pieces; underlining (if applicable); creating bias binding; reinforcing and staystitching (Steps 1-3 and step 35)
10/20/2014 Attaching the gusset, binding, belt & side seams (steps 4-22)
10/27/2014 Sewing the sleeves & back (steps 23-50)
11/3/2014 Assembling the pockets (steps 51-63)
11/10/2014 Finishing: Facing, button holes, buttons, and hem (steps 64-86)
11/17/2014 Parade of coats
I know that sounds like a lot of work for each week, but keep in mind that most of the steps involved are instructing you to sew bias binding. Those of us who have made unlined bias bound coats before know that once you get into a groove, it’s not so bad š Plus, I don’t want this to drag on forever! I want to take my coat to London, dangit! š
Ready to join in the coat-making fun? AWESOME! Don’t forget to buy your pattern – there’s a sale going on right now through 9/19, yay! – and make sure to follow The McCall Pattern Blog if you’re not already doing so. Next week, we’ll have all the official badges and hashtags so you can pretty up your blogs š
In the meantime… who’s in? What’s your dream Ralph Rucci coat look like? I’m currently manhandling some of the most gorgeous red wool coatings, can’t wait to make this baby up! š
LLADYBIRD 
Love it! I am not so sure I join – for sure will follow!
Follow away! š
I think I might be too old for this look; and probably don’t have the right figure for it, but I’m considering making a muslin just for the fun of it.
I doubt you’re too old for this look, although I totally understand not being comfortable in a particular style š I think you absolutely should make a muslin – you might be surprised š I’ve seen it on a few different shapes/sizes/ages and it looks good on most everyone!
Funny this, I was just thinking about using the wool/cashmere blend I bought for a gown to make this coat instead. Actually I think that I bought enough to make both, as long as I shorten the coat to hip length. I have some black pantent leather coming for the bound buttonholes. I think it will be amazing! Can’t wait to join!
Ohhhh, that sounds beautiful! I thought about using leather, but I think I’m going to do a tone-on-tone look with taffeta. Cannot WAIT to see your version, though!
Oh my gosh! Just the motivation I need to make this amazing coat! The hardest part will be convincing the hubs that I actually NEED more fabric. š The hardest part is going to be deciding on color. Red screams out to me, but I’m having this love affair with houndstooth lately. Hmmm…houndstooth with red buttons, button holes and underlining? That might be just the right ticket.
You don’t need fabric… you need a coat š Right? š HAHA! Also, houndstooth with red accents?? Be still, my heart.
Love it! I think I’m in!
Yeeeaaahh!!
i’m so glad they are doing this – i just wish there was a spot for some fitting advice in there! it has no traditional style lines, so i feel like that will be trickier…
We will be covering muslins with some general fitting advice, and I believe there will also be a Flickr Group if anyone wants to use the forums to discuss. It’s true that there aren’t traditional style lines, but there are marked bust/waist/hip points, as well as lengthen/shorten lines, so that should help somewhat. If anything, I’m up for the challenge š
hmm, good to know!!
Another chance to learn from the lovely Lauren? I’m in!
Sally, I just know your coat is going to be amazing!
I plan to join. Sounds great, and I look forward to petit-ing the coat along with you.
Yes, we are definitely going to need that š haha!
Awesome! I can’t wait to watch from the sidelines!
Hopefully it’ll be just as fun for y’all watching as it will be for us sewing š
Hello Ladybird, I have lots of great wool and cotton (that looks like wool plaid) fabrics that would be awesome in that coat. I would be happy to give a discount to your readers for this sew along. š This one would be nice https://www.etsy.com/listing/201385248/lightweight-italian-heathered-wool? And wouldn’t this be absolutely kick ass?!! https://www.etsy.com/listing/200587956/embroidered-plaid-italian-wool? Anyhow, if you’re game, I’m game! I’ll send you a code and set it up in the shop. Nicole
Nicole Morgenthau Owner and Teacher Finch Sewing Studio
102 Loudoun Street SW Leesburg, Va. 20175
503.964.2439
http://www.finchsewingstudio.com
Nicole, thank you so much for your discount offer! We actually have an official fabric sponsor for the sewalong, but if you’d like to offer your own ~unofficial~ discount code, by all means – feel free š That heathered Italian wool is SO dreamy – someone needs to make a coat with that, and use faux leather for the contrast! SOMEONE DO IT!
Where can we find information about the official fabric sponsor? I’d like to order swatches! Thank you for this fun opportunity!
Mood Fabrics will be providing the discount, so if you want to get a head start on ordering swatches – start there! I’ll have a fabric post up on 9/29 that will go over all the fabrics, though š
Can’t join you on this one, but I’m looking forward to seeing the construction. Ralph Rucci is a great designer.
He is on my love list now for sure!
I’m in, any word on who is giving the discount for fabric? Mood?
It’ll be Mood š
My only concern about joining is that as a D cup – I need a 2″ FBA and I have no idea where I would insert that. I’m not certain if I can get away with the cheater armhole adjustment.
Hm, good question! I haven’t really had a lot of recent experience with FBAs (I did them on everything in the past, but my bust went down so now FBAs aren’t really necessary for me), but I do recall from past experience that you were mostly good as long as you had the bust point marked – which this pattern has. You may have to hack the pattern apart to do the FBA (as in – trace it first), since it’s a weird shape with the sleeve attached – but I feel like it could probably be muddled through. Or you could do what I would do, and just size up at the bust area at the side front and front. Make a muslin and see how that works?
So – you’re saying the FBA police won’t be invitedand we’ll just see what works? Sounds like I’m in.
I’ll pick up the pattern tonight. I have a beautiful Zegna fabric in mind for it.
I won’t tell them if you don’t tell them š lol
Yeah, I am a DD myself, so went with bust size which luckily for me isn’t too far off from waist/hip these days. I’ve put my muslin together and thinking it won’t need too much alteration in the bust since it doesn’t have darts. I may need to take the waist in a little to compensate and keep the nice figure of the coat. Keep me updated on what you decide to do! I’m still impatiently waiting for my fabric to ship.
Try tracing the pattern front, cut off the sleeve and cut off the bottom at the lengthen/shorten line. Do your standard FBA and remove the dart. Reattach the sleeve, skirt, and grade the seams. Just remember, any changes you make to the front you need to make to the facings etc… š
oh wow, if ever there was a pattern that could use a sewalong! I’m so on the fence about this pattern. I never would have selected it based on the pattern cover, but it looks amazing on you, which gives me a small window of hope that the proportions could work on me. What type of fabric are you planning on using?
I just checked the ads and Joann’s is having a sale on Vogue patterns this week 9/18-9/20 ($5 each) in case anyone wants to snag a pattern in person.
Well, you know the garment on the pattern cover is the exact same garment I’m wearing in the photo š I think it might just fit me better? Also, Meg posted a photo on the McCall Facebook of a few different people trying on the coat – go look at that, see how good it looks on everyoneeee š
For fabric, I will be using a virgin wool coating, a fairly dense weave with a nice body that’s not too stiff. I’ll also be underlining my pieces.
Good to know about the sale at Joann! Can never have too many $5 patterns š
Oh! I was ready to jump in, I hace the perfect double sided wool fabric at home… until I saw the pattern outline… ouch! I think it is not apropiate for double sided fabric, all those curved seams at the sleeves… nah! (I accept your opinions, though!) Double sided wool goes withour lining as well, but one has to hand sew all the seams on one wide…. I am really curious and will be following. It makes a big difference between the one you modeld and the one Vogue presents with the pattern… and I suspect fabric choice is crucial in here.
Here again discussing with myself! I have the exact amount of fabric, argh! I am thinking maybe it is not such a bad idea to use it with my double sided wool (horrible now, it is still summer weather here in Catalonia, forgodsake!), i am thinking, better this round subtle seams than a mounted sleeve…) Let me think about it, I have two days left!!
I think your fabric should be fine! Hard to tell without seeing it, but the fabric for the original coat is a fused double layer something (Meg talks about what it specifically is on the McCall blog), and it works fine for those seams š Also – always good to start before you need it! Then you won’t be in a rush to finish before the winter ends š
Ok, I am in! I just bought the pattern. The shipping costs are three times the pattern cost, and it is the most expensive pattern I’ve bought in my life. In fact, I am doing all my patterns lately, but you seduced me somehow… or the coat as you modelled it! I will show you my wool soon, and the seams are gonna be exciting!
Let’s pray for cold weather to arrive soon! š
And thanks for cheering me up, Lauren!
Will it be relatively easy to add a full lining? I live in Minnesota, there are about four days a year where an unlined wool coat would be any use at all.But it’s a beautiful coat and if I can make it cozy, I’m into it.
I don’t think this pattern is suitable for a full lining. However, you can underline all the pieces – which is exactly what I’m doing with my coat (partially to add a layer of warmth, and partially because I want the sleeves to be slippery so it’s easy to put on). If you use a silk underlining and a wool outer, that’ll make the coat pretty cozy. You could even interline with an additional layer of lightweight silk (such as organza) to make it even warmer š
Well what do ya know. I’ve been trying to decide what I want to do for my winter coat this year, and looking at the line art and fabric requirements, I think this may suit me just fine. I guess I’ll be joining in. ^_^
Awesome! š
Sounds like the best fall sewing plan ever! Unfortunately I can’t join you guys as I only get back on the 10th of november, and one week will be waaay to short for a god coat š¦ but I’ll read along for sure!
Aw! Well you can always sew one up after the fact š Because I know you’re gonna end up making something amazing!!
This coat looks better on you! Love your shoes too! I’m thinking of joining because how it looks on you. Do you think it’s possible to reduce the sleeve to a slimmer fit? It’s quite big, bell shaped for my liking, but other then that, I do like it!
I think so! I’d just take in the curve of the pattern piece a bit. And definitely make a muslin, so you can be sure it worked š
I think I might try this out with 2 main colors: navy or royal blue with black along the side pieces. Go for a little super hero vibe š
Oooh, color blocking is a great idea! I’m on the fence about joining the sew along because I really don’t want to buy more fabric (trying so hard to cut down my stash right now) but if I used two fabrics I might be able to manage it…
I need to see some colorblocked Ralph Ruccis in this sewalong! Y’all are blowing my mind right now.
Ahhh yes! That sounds like it’ll be fantastic!
This is not the kind of coat I generally wear but it will be fun to follow along. May choose another pattern.
Yeah, I wouldn’t recommend making it if you won’t actually wear it š Using another pattern is a great idea!
I would definitely wear this coat. I wish my sewing skills were up to scratch, but I only started sewing a few months ago and there is no way I’d be able to handle this. I’ll definitely follow though and plan to make this pattern in the future using your sew-a-long x x x x
The posts will be up indefinitely, so yes, once you are confident with your skills, you can totally follow along š and pssst – I wanna see it when you do end up making it š
Hi, Im so HAPPY you saw the light! Ive always loved this coat , or anything Ralph Rucci for that matter.
Me too! š
I’m tempted to follow along with just making the muslin. I would love to get one coat making under my belt.
Making the muslin is the first step to having a fabulous coat, you know š
Right now the fabric budget is super tight, hence just the muslin, but this will be super helpful for me to get things right until the perfect fabric at the perfect price comes along. I did think the embroidered plaid wool that Finch Sewing studio posted was amazing!
I just looked at the pattern description – it says it’s an advanced skill pattern. Obviously with a sew-a-long that will help, but is it super complicated? Or just super time consuming? I really need a new coat this winter
I don’t think it’s super complicated (of course, I don’t think *anything* is super complicated with the steps broken down, so there’s that! Haha!) – I think it’s just time-consuming and requires a bit of precision with the gussets and binding. You could always get the pattern now (while it’s on sale, ha) and either try the muslin to see how you like the construction method, or wait until we’re a few sewalong posts deep to see if you think the steps look manageable š
I’m not a fan of the pattern for me (the arms mainly) so won’t be sewing this but will be following the sew-along as a spectator and wish you all the best!
No worries! Hopefully you’ll get something out of being a spectator – even if it’s just entertainment š
I’m in! I picked up the pattern a couple weeks ago (after seeing you wearing it). I just need to figure out the right fabric.
Yay! We’ll be doing a fabric post on 9/29 if you can wait that long (hint hint discount hint hint ;)).
I am hoping you will be able to suggest a light coat weight fabric that will also work beautifully since I live in the Southwest and our winter evenings are mild.
how fun, I’ve never done/heard of a sew along…I wish i had the time to do this, but with two little humans to care for and a full time job…but I’ll definitely be following along, wishing I could participate. Plus I’m a super beginner and I live in a place where we think 63Ā° is cold.
The sewalong posts will be up indefinitely, so you can always refer to them later once you feel a little more confident in your skills š And yeah, sewalongs are fun! You can always do them at your own pace, if you feel that you can’t keep up with the rest of the posts. No shame in that at all š
Hi all! So glad you’re thinking about joining this sewalong. FYI, I just posted a photo of several different women here at McCall’s trying on this coat. It is surprisingly flattering on everybody. See the photo here on the post announcing the sewalong: https://www.facebook.com/voguepatternsmccalls
Ooh, thanks for sharing this! Very interesting to see the same coat on different people – it looks great on everyone, it seems š
I’m definitely in! I’ll be making the coat for my daughter, who loved the design the minute she saw it. I’m planning on picking up the pattern tomorrow at Joann’s. If they’re sold out, then I’ll buy it online. This is my first sewalong, and I’m looking forward to it!
What an awesome thing to make for your daughter! I bet she is going to LOVE her coat š
I just ordered the pattern! I was already thinking to buy it some weeks ago but then decided against it, basically just because I lacked courage to start making it. I never made a coat before. It will be definitely be an adventure for me. This sewalong is really a great idea. Definitely looking forward to it!
Hopefully this sewalong will give you all the info you need to make your own coat! I think you can do it š
I have a heavy cranberry wool coating that i purchased thinking I was going to make a Lady Grey. But i can’t see that fabric working without a lining.There is a great Shetland plaid that i was looking at also but again, no lining? how to i find something with a stiff drape, preferably wool that won’t need a lining?
after looking at the line drawing and the close ups of that coat, i agree that it’s pretty spectacular.
You can underline the coat, which will add a layer of warmth as well as make it slippery enough to comfortably put on. This is exactly what I will be doing to my coat, which I will be going over in the sewalong š As far as getting a good drape – again, you can interline with a stiffer fabric, or, you could block fuse your fashion fabric. Lots of options with this one!
I was thinking about underlining. I’m glad to see other people are going to try it. Someone on Vogue’s facebook post just called it an Olivia Pope coat – now i have to make one.
Oh no. Now I’m getting influenced with the Olivia Pope reference. I have no business taking on another coat but this is tempting. so sad my other coat patterns will be bumped in the queue but this is epic.
I love this coat. I’m not sure I’ll be able to keep up with the sew along, but I’m going to try!
Yay!
So its soon going to be summer here in Western Australia where the temperature doesnt drop below 30deg but who cares! I’m keen as a bean to make this coat and am going to be hanging out for next autumn/winter to wear it!! Thinking of using some red wool coating fabric for my stash… yay for stashbusting and yay for already planning my winter 2015 wardrobe š And as a first time commenter but long time reader I’d just like to say how inspiring and helpful I find your blog, Lauren! Your always the first blog I check for helpful tips whenever I start using a new pattern š
Aw, thank you! š Also – if you make a red wool Ralph Rucci, we are gonna MATCH! How fun š
Haha oops!! I was wondering what you meant by matching and re-read your post… I didnt realise you were making a red one too!! Great minds think alike?! š
Hi Lauren!
This is such an exciting prospect. I haven’t made a coat before, but am always up for a challenge – you looked great in it!
I have a ‘newb’ question š for a muslin, what fabric should be used, and how much would we need?
I’m a UK fan so getting the pattern might be a bit trickier for me, but I really want to join in!
Thanks for such a great blog, Lauren. I often laugh out loud to myself reading your posts.
Much love from Liverpool!
Hi Carly!
The tipical fabric for muslim is called is just plain cotton. So you can go to a store a buy whatever cotton is cheapest. The amount you need is the same than for the coat, which is specified in the pattern webpage. I hope I helped!
Oops, just now seeing this! I just basically repeated what you said haha. Thanks for chiming in! š
Thank you so much, Carly! š Muslin is the same thing as a toile in the UK – just a cheap cotton fabric (I think y’all call that calico? Correct me if I’m wrong; I’m just going by what I read in UK sewing blogs š ) that you use to mock up your pattern before you cut into the good stuff! The amount you need is the same amount that you would need for coating – whatever the pattern specifies. Hope this helps š
Crap, I have 3 unfinished jackets languishing but I don’t care! I’m in!
THE MORE THE MERRIER AMIRITE š
This is. WAY past my skills. Think I’ll sit and watch š
No worries! š The posts will be here once you feel confident enough in your skills (assuming you still want to make it) š
I’m in the “way past my skillset” category here, which is sad, because I loved this coat from the moment I saw it. But I’m absolutely looking forward to following along, and I may buy the pattern for my stash. Because you can never have too many stashed patterns, right?
Never ever! It’s not like patterns ever go bad, you know š
“Way past [your] skill set?” That sounds like the perfect invite to dive right in. What better inspiration to rev up those mad skills than actually doing it? Can’t wait to hear more about fabric options!
Now THAT’S the kind of attitude I like to see š
I’m in! My first sew along, and I need a jacket! Looking forward to selecting fabric š
Yay!
I have a coat that I bought at MaxMara (specificaly the SportMax line) in Italy in 2010 that is very similar in terms of the overall lines (body, sleeves), though the exact sleeve construction is different), so I won’t be making this, but I’m curious to see how this comes together. Might even try the muslin for the experience. Good pick.
Oops…specifically
I think it’ll be a very interesting sewalong š You know I’m biased, but I think you should totally muslin just for the experience – I’m not normally excited about making a muslin, but I am about this one! š
Just bought the pattern the other week because I thought it looked rather interesting. Definitely going to make the muslin and then go from there. It would be great to do this with others.
Awesome! So excited to have ya š
I would like to participate but I’m not sure I can get the pattern. Do you know if they have a PDF copy? (I live in Israel… I don’t know a place that sell Vogue patterns)
Can you order online? The McCall’s website has the pattern on sale right now until the end of the day. I don’t think they offer a PDF for this pattern š¦
I’m a newbie to sewing, super ambitious beginner this would be my second sewalong , my first is still happening as with the Bellini blouse over at fabulous Capitolchipatterns and totally game for making this coat! Must get the muslin!
I just bought the pattern!!! This will be my first sewalong and my first time sewing a coat. I’m so excited! I’m already searching for the best fabric. I’m looking for a maroon color. Hmmmm, decisions, decisions.
I picked up the pattern and muslin last night. I’m bad about sticking with a sewalong but I’m determined to stick with this one.
I am going to brush off my rusty sewing skills and make this coat. Really looking forward to this! Will be looking for info on fabric selection and sources.
Oh, my goodness, I feel like I am diving into the deep end of the pool in a bikini with loose bottoms, but here I come! Got the pattern today at JoAnn’s and am looking forward to Mood fabric! This coat may not be warm enough for an Alaskan winter, but I will underline, hope for the best! Thank you for this sew along! I may not finish with the masses, but I will do what I can. (by the way, I got my red fashion sketchbook last month and love it, thanks for the post on that)
I think I’m totally getting in on this. I’ve been wanting to make a coat forever. I love this one and I love your blog!
I have pattern and fabric in hand right now, DEFINITELY in !!
I fancy some lining too, I just love this coat so much it hurts š
What the hell. I’m in. Just ordered the pattern (It’s already *back* on sale FYI to anyone reading this comment) and I’ll search my stash for some fabric. Fortunately I have some days off in the middle of the sewalong. My first sewcation!!! What a fab way to spend it!
Shelley
I’m in! Definitely in need of a new coat this year. A few years back I took a whole week off work to make my first jacket (actually, a rain jacket). I was still fairly new to sewing and didn’t understand the value in making a muslin, cringe. Long story short– it was beautiful, waterproof and way too small across the back. I could only force myself to wear it once because I couldn’t really move my arms the way one needs to be able to in everyday life, Ha, ha. I am ready to redeem myself!! I’ve been thinking of making a coat inspired by Benedict Cumberbatch’s Sherlock character–that red stitching on the buttonhole–this is what dreams are made of…
It has never really occurred to me before, but making my own coat might be an amazing idea. I think I need to work on a few skills and perfect them a bit before attempting it, but it’s a great thing to aim for. I always have a difficult time purchasing coats because I have a larger bust and rather toned arms, neither of which fit if the rest of the coat fits properly. Most often the problem I run into is fitting my arms into the amscyes while wearing winter sweaters.
I can’t resist. I’m in. I’m buying the pattern tonight, after work.
I must be mad, but I’m in.
I have been encouraged by my sister (http://www.knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk/) to have ago. I’m a beginner at sewing, but have an awesome experienced support network that are ready to give a helping hand. I definitely won’t be able to keep up with the sewalong, but I’m getting my pattern tomorrow & am ready to give it ago š
I am looking at double sided wool, wool coating and boucle. Anyone else thinking about fabric? Here in the Northeast, this will be a fall coat!
I’m excited to join in. I now have the pattern and am considering using a lovely purple wool from my stash. I do want to underline, probably with silk…need to think about that.
I may not be able to finish on schedule, so may be a couple of weeks behind.
So glad that you and McCalls are hosting this. The coat is so gorgeous.
You know what, I’ve got about 7 UFOs that I can’t seem to finish. Screw it. I’m gonna make a coat with all of you.