Completed: Vogue 8664

27 Jun

Remember the Sew Bossy Initiative? This is a fun little sewing challenge where you get paired up with a fellow blogger and basically tell them what to sew next – complete with you sending them the fabric, pattern, and anything needed to finish the garment in question. Your sewing buddy will do the same for you.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress

Well, I got paired up with Rachel Pinheiro, and while we were fairly quick about getting the patterns and fabric to each other, it’s taken an entire year for me to actually sew my dress (and poor Rachel, I sent her a pattern that ended up being a no-go, so she’s still trying to decide what to sub in!). On top of that, I’ve actually had this dress completed for over a month! Oops! Well, better late than never, I guess πŸ™‚

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress

Rachel sent me Vogue 8664 as my pattern for the Sew Bossy. While it’s a gorgeous design, part of the reason why I dragged my feet on sewing it up is because I simply did not like the skirt included. Don’t get me wrong – it’s a pretty, fitted skirt. But I don’t do fitted skirts, they just don’t work with my lifestyle these days (and by “lifestyle,” I mean, I sit on the floor a lot. Ha!). So I sat and considered it, and debated if changing up the skirt would ruin the whole fun of Sew Bossy (since I’m not really letting Rachel boss me at this point). Fortunately (well, unfortunately for Rachel hahah booo), Rachel ended up scrapping the pattern *I* sent her, so we decided it would be fine for me to change out the skirt to make something more suitable for my daily life. As fun at this challenge is – it’s not very fun if I end up with a garment I’m not actually ever going to wear!

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
This actually ended up being my birthday dress- which I decided to do about 10 days before I needed it. I don’t even go out for my birthday these days, but man, sometimes it’s nice to just wear a new dress that makes you feel good, you know? And I feel pretty good in this dress!

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
Anyway – back to the Vogue pattern! I cut the size 6, with the B cup pieces (I don’t wear anywhere near a B cup, fyi, that’s just the pattern piece that had the closest finished measurement to my body), and made a muslin of the bodice to check the fit. My fabric is a cotton sateen with a heavy stretch – Rachel bought it in Brazil, isn’t it amaaaazing?! – so I used some old stashed stretch fabric for my muslin. Out of the envelope, everything fit mostly well, except that I did take about 1″ out of the center back (not an uncommon adjustment for me). I debated on whether or not to sew the sleeves, but I’m glad I did in the end, because they’re pretty awesome! They get their shape from two giant darts at the sleeve head; the body of this particular fabric I used also helps πŸ™‚

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
The other major change I made to the pattern was to swap out the skirt for an A-line. I used the skirt from my Belladone pattern – pockets and all – and I think they matched up pretty well. Plus, you know, it’s wearable. For me, anyway πŸ™‚

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
Construction-wise, I made a few changes. The main one was that I did not line the bodice as called for. Rachel sent me enough fabric so I could self-line, but I used up pretty much all that while cutting the skirt and pockets. Anyway, I don’t think I’d like this fabric as self-lining – it’s pretty thick and heavy for a summer dress, two layers would be crazy! Instead, I drafted a facing for the neckline (this was as easy as tracing the edge of the neckline and extending it to 1″ wide for a narrow facing piece, then adding seam allowances). I debated with what to do about the arm holes, since the sleeve doesn’t go all the way around (and thus, this is where that lining really helps). In the end, I bound the arm hole edges with flat bias facing, which covers all the raw edges and also makes the insides look pretty πŸ™‚ You do see topstitching from the outside, but it’s not very noticeable with this fabric.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
I also changed the midriff to be a contrasting solid color. I actually cut the dress to be all the same self-fabric, but after I sewed everything together… it just looked like a hot mess! Too much pattern being broken up in too many places. Yuck! So I painstakingly ripped out the midriff (which had already been topstiched at this point, ugh) and replaced it with a solid navy sateen that I had in my stash. You probably recognize this fabric because I’ve used it multiple times on multiple garments (including my lace trench, these Maritime shorts and this Belladone. And I STILL have more of this fabric! Man, that shit is awesome).

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
So here’s the major glaring flaw with this dress – the damn waistband seam allowances show from the outside! This happened for a multitude of reasons – mainly, I didn’t interface the outside waistband (i.e., the navy solid). I had already interfaced the feathered waistband, which after I ripped out I put on the inside of the garment, and I didn’t want to re-interface because, fuck you, that shit is expensive. Don’t look at me like that. It might have been ok, except I also didn’t trim my seam allowances, or even attempt to grade them. Why? I don’t know. I have no idea. Anyway, they’re totally visible from the outside and it doesn’t look the greatest, but, whatever. I’m not ripping that shit out again, I can live with it.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
Speaking of interfacing, I have discovered a most brilliant solution for interfacing fabric with a high stretch content – stretch interfacing! Whowouldathunk?! I used this tricoat interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply (the only place I buy interfacing from; srsly, it’s all amazing). It gives a bit of interfaced support to your fabric without actually compromising the stretch! Which means my waistband still stretches, despite being interfaced. It’s fucking awesome. I used this stuff on the neckline facing as well.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
As I mentioned before, I made my neckline facing 1″ wide. Generally, facings are closer to 2″-3″ wide. Why so narrow? I wanted to topstitch it down (partially to keep it on the inside of the garment, and partially because of all the topstitching already on the dress), and didn’t need a giant flap of interfacing beyond my topstitching. Even though I topstitched the facing, I also understitched it first – it helps everything roll to the inside and press flat before that final line of stitching.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
Also topstitched: the lapped zipper, both edges of the midriff band, around the arms (where I sewed down the bias facing), the pocket edges, and the sleeve and skirt hems.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
I just love the way the neckline facing looks! It’s so dainty!

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
Here is the arm hole facing. It is sewn in the exact same way as I sew bias facing for a sleeveless dress.

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
For garments with very visible seams that need to be matched up across a zipper, you can’t beat a lapped zipper. It makes things sooo much easier to match, as you can see it while you’re sewing (as opposed to an invisible zipper, which is sewn on the wrong side).

Vogue 8664 - Birthday Dress
And that’s it! A bossy birthday dress πŸ™‚ I’m happy to report that I did finish this in time for my birthday – woohoo! Also, these are the last photos I have of my hair this color, fyi. I actually dyed it over the weekend (right after I took these pictures, of course, ugh), and now it’s purple! Stay tuned for that πŸ˜‰

Consider this a Sew Bossy success! I can’t wait to see what Rachel dreams up for her fabric, because I know whatever she makes is going to be amazing (like everything else she makes, gah). Thanks to Heather Lou for dreaming up this fun challenge, and to Rachel for agreeing to pair up with me!

How bout you? Ever participate (or would you participate) in Sew Bossy? Does it give you a mini heart attack to imagine someone else telling you what to make? Spill!


45 Responses to “Completed: Vogue 8664”

  1. Carrie in Stitches June 27, 2014 at 8:08 am #

    Cute dress! I love the fabric and colors and the shape is very flattering on you. I agree about the skirt, fitted skirts look so great but are hard to mix into everyday life. I have an idea for the waistband. You could topstitch 3 or 4 lines spaced evenly with black thread so it would almost look quilted or like an intentional design detail. I have done that before and I actually thought it was a design detail before you mentioned that it was seam allowance. (-: great dress!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 10:55 am #

      Seems like everyone is in camp topstitch! Dunno why I didn’t think of that myself – but that’s the beauty of blogging, people give out the best ideas πŸ™‚ I am going to do it for sure – thanks so much for the suggestion! πŸ˜€

  2. Carolyn June 27, 2014 at 8:27 am #

    If i were you I would add some topstitching to those seams on the waistband and make them an enhanced design feature…cause I thought it was an interesting design until you said something! Otherwise the dress is very cute and very you.

    • Carolyn June 27, 2014 at 8:28 am #

      Just read Carrie in Stitches comment and I so wholeheartedly agree!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 10:55 am #

      Carolyn, if you say so, then I’ll do it. I basically consider you the queen of enhanced design features πŸ™‚

  3. Katie June 27, 2014 at 8:35 am #

    Love the fabric, and that is some nice tidy finishing. I’ll try the narrow facing + topstitching sometime. I’ve just signed up to a Sew Bossy swap myself, quite nervous – mostly that my swapee likes her project!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 10:57 am #

      It is totally nerve-wracking, I hear ya on that! But it’s really fun to let someone else take the reigns and tell you what to make, and I’m guessing your swapee will like her project just based on that fact alone πŸ™‚

  4. Heather Lou June 27, 2014 at 8:48 am #

    Love this dress… bossy victory!! Hope you’re well m’dear!

  5. Aubrey (@Aubreyland325) June 27, 2014 at 9:08 am #

    That neckline is awesome! I’ve been digging circle skirts lately, and hoping to whip a couple up this summer since they seem so pricey online compared to how (I hope) simple they are. May text you if I need zipper assistance.

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 10:58 am #

      They are SUPER simple – but be warned, they are fabric hogs πŸ™‚ Worth it, though! And yeah girl, just holler if you need help with a zipper. You can also check out Casey’s Circle Skirt Sewalong (there’s a button in my sidebar that links to it); she has a great set of instructions, from drafting to assembling πŸ™‚

  6. Juliana @ Urban Simplicity June 27, 2014 at 9:14 am #

    Nicely done! I was thinking that the waistband had a kind of cumberbund look to it–I like it!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 10:58 am #

      It kind of does look like that now that you mention it!

  7. Suzie June 27, 2014 at 9:24 am #

    I have to agree withe Carrie and Carolyn, I thought it was a design feature as well and it could do with some topstitching. ItΒ΄s a great dress and an awesome fabric!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 10:59 am #

      Looks like I’ll be topstitching this weekend πŸ™‚ Thanks for your input!

  8. Helen June 27, 2014 at 9:26 am #

    Agree with the commenters above – the waistband looks intentional, so don’t worry about that. I like the idea of Sew Bossy, but would get really stressed that my potential partner wouldn’t like what I chose! I think that might take the fun out of it a bit!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 11:06 am #

      Oh yeah, that part was stressful! But, you know, it’s also fun shopping for someone else πŸ™‚ And fun ripping open the package to reveal what they chose for you!

  9. Kelly June 27, 2014 at 10:02 am #

    I love these topstitching ideas for the waist! I thought it looked intentional too, until you said something. I would be more afraid that the person I sent the project to would hate it… or that I’d never get it done or would ruin some beautiful fabric… probably not a good project for me! I love the idea though.

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 11:09 am #

      Yeah, I can see how those reasons might make the project not appealing for some people! But I guess it’s fun to see how other people do with who/what they pair of up, yeah? πŸ™‚

  10. LinB June 27, 2014 at 10:10 am #

    Yep, channel stitch the womp out of that midriff. I thought from your photo that you had done just that, to add some textural interest to the plain navy, since the rest of the gorgeous print is so busy.

    I have never understood the current prejudice against a lapped or a centered zip installation. Invisible zips are fine, but sometimes they are just not the application of choice. And sometimes you need a beefier zip to keep your clothes fastened. I’m just sayin’.

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 11:08 am #

      Well, I’ve never had a prejudice against non-invisible zips πŸ™‚ (although some garments really need the invisible zip, and you can’t really work around it). I agree that sometimes you need a beefier zipper to keep things fastened – I’m still a little traumatized from past zipper breakage haha. That never happens with a standard zipper!

      • LinB June 30, 2014 at 12:03 pm #

        Sorry, didn’t mean to include you in the legion of young stitchers who seem to turn up their collective noses at anything but an IV! I did not grow up using them, as the late 1960s fad for them was the first time they were widely available commercially and I was but a young lass, who left all the tricky bits of sewing like inserting zippers and making buttonholes to my dear Ma. Then the fad was over, and IVs were not to be found in stores accessible to me. Plus we were all hippy-dippy tie-die and bodysuits and ethnic wraps, then thick polyester double-knit that laughed at IVs. I like them for many applications, but confess that I still try to use buttons or ties or snaps as closures instead of the good old zip fastener.

  11. Nakisha June 27, 2014 at 10:46 am #

    Totally looked eleventy times at the waistband to see what you were talking about!

    LOVE that fabric.

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 11:09 am #

      Ha! That’s what I get for pointing out my boo-boos πŸ™‚ No one notices it!

  12. Gina June 27, 2014 at 10:51 am #

    In agreement that the waistband looked like it was topstitched for texture and that going with that flow would be a great idea! Also, I have an appointment to get my hair dyed some sort of purple in two weeks! I have to get some color taken out first because it’s so dark, and then I’m going to dye it a reddish purple of some sort. If your purple is anything like your blue it will probably be way more awesome than mine and I’ll be jealous. I have really yellowy olive colored skin, and a lot of colors just make me look sallow and sickly, so I’ll need a really warm purple though I want nothing more than a shocking electric purple. But either way, go purple hair!

    • LLADYBIRD June 27, 2014 at 11:15 am #

      Omgggg, you are going to look so good with purple hair!!! Ahh!! I can’t wait to see it! Definitely do a warm reddish purple – I had something like that ages ago and I wish I could do it again, but my hair just has too many blue tones so I had to go with a royal grape purple πŸ™‚ I’m sure your salon has a dye they like to use, but if you’re buying your own – check out Special Effects dye in Burgandy Wine. It is the most BEAUTIFUL red-purple, and Special Effect dye rules.

  13. malinisquilts June 27, 2014 at 11:17 am #

    Beautiful dress! I love the neck and sleeve detail!

  14. Debbie Iles June 27, 2014 at 12:04 pm #

    How fun! The dress looks lovely on you. And I’m a big fan of topstitching or other sneaky fixer upper/faux-design features.

  15. Nancy Bymers June 27, 2014 at 1:24 pm #

    I’m surprised I’m the first to say it, but if you think the waist looks wonky (which it only does in the pics that are close up), belt it with a little yellow, white, maybe even red belt.

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2014 at 1:16 pm #

      I actually tried belting it, but it just looked too busy with the print & solid midriff. However, I did not try a YELLOW belt. Ooh that would be so pretty! Must find yellow belt now haha

  16. Patricia B. June 28, 2014 at 7:55 am #

    Your dress is so cute! I love the fit on you! I totally understand about not wanting to rip seams out. The ‘I can live with it’ happens on occasion. for me too Besides, nobody ever notices my sewing mistakes. I love your sense of humor, keeping it real!!!

  17. lisa g June 28, 2014 at 8:47 am #

    this is so cute! i love this shape on you with the a-line-ish skirt. i’ll have to try out the narrow facing idea, it’s totally genius! especially since i’m inclined to topstich anything that can be topstitched and i really don’t enjoy doing biased faced necklines. great job!

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2014 at 1:17 pm #

      Oh yeah, narrow facings rule! Highly recommended if you don’t want floppy facings πŸ˜€

  18. Lori June 28, 2014 at 12:33 pm #

    Such a cute dress, Lauren and I like how you made it your own. It looks super cute and I can totally understand not wanting unsew. Somethings you can just live it.

  19. fionaparker17 June 28, 2014 at 1:10 pm #

    I can so see a bit of Rachel in this dress! As well as it being absolutely perfect for you! I love the shape of the armholes, the skinny facing and your decision to use a solid for the waistband. It looks so beautifully made!

  20. Luisa June 28, 2014 at 4:17 pm #

    Beautiful fabric/pattern(s) combination! The neckline facing looks great–have to agree about not wanting a lot of facing flapping around, especially on a summer dress.

  21. Amy June 29, 2014 at 5:19 am #

    I thought the waistband was a design feature too and I think it looks great! Agree with others about top stitching it to make it even more deliberate. We’ll all be sewing waistbands like that, look what you’ve started ha ha

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2014 at 1:17 pm #

      Oh don’t tease me like that! You know I want nothing more than to start a sewing trend πŸ˜€ haha

  22. Land girl June 29, 2014 at 6:54 am #

    A sweetheart neckline pattern that works on a smaller frame is so cool. I think I will be getting this and also switching out the skirt. I am dancing a lot and this would be the perfect dance dress.

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2014 at 1:18 pm #

      Ooh yes, it would make a perfect dance dress for sure!

  23. HouseOFpinheiro (@HouseOFpinheiro) June 29, 2014 at 5:08 pm #

    You totally rocked this dress. I loved how you made it your own. Feel like a total failure by not have finished mine yet. You and me are so similar on your sewing ways.. Couldn’t be paired to a better person

    • LLADYBIRD June 30, 2014 at 1:19 pm #

      Don’t EVEN feel like a failure! We both know I sent you what ended up being a crap pattern, and I totally understand needing to take your time to find the perfect partner for your fabric (some stuff sits in my stash for years before I figure out what I want to do with it!). I want you to love your dress, so don’t feel like you have to rush. It’ll get made up eventually πŸ™‚

      I’m so glad I got paired up with you, I think we make a most excellent match! πŸ™‚

  24. missjoiedevivre June 30, 2014 at 1:52 am #

    What a beautiful fabric! And it looks gorgeous in this dress too. Another little bit of perfection.


  1. Completed: Leopard Silk Simplicity 6266 | LLADYBIRD - January 3, 2017

    […] have my glorious Marc Jacobs birds dress (which is still my favorite favorite thing EVER), this blue cotton sateen dress via the Sew Bossy challenge, and my sparkly brocade skirt. Both of these have been great to have for festive holiday parties, […]

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