Good morning, everyone! As I mentioned in my year end post (as well as on Instagram a few times!) – I bought a Coverstitch machine in October! Specifically, a Janome CoverPro 2000CPX, which I purchased from Craft South here in Nashville. Now that I’ve had a couple of months to play with the machine and learn more about it, it’s time for a review post! Get a cup of tea, this one is long.
The Janome CoverPro 2000CPX is a 4 thread coverstitch that can accommodate up to 3 needles. It has minimal differences from the 1000CPX, which I also considered buying – basically, it’s a little easier to thread. There is also a 2 needle 2000CPX, but I wanted the 3 needle.
I chose this particular brand for 2 reasons – first of all, Janome tends to get very high praise for their coverstitch machines. This machine is pretty popular and gets great reviews across the board. It’s inexpensive (but not cheap), easy to thread, and provides a nice variety of stitches. Full disclosure for reason #2 – I work at Craft South, and I got a very generous employee discount with this machine purchase. This also swayed my decision, however, I was considering this machine before I even started working at Craft South (and I’m not gonna lie – knowing I’d get a discount on it was part of the reason why I agreed to work there, haha). While I did purchase this machine with my own money, it was discounted.
Why a coverstitch machine? Y’all. I have wanted one of these since 2007, no exaggeration. I put it on my wishlist every single year, and every year I convince myself that it’s a frivolous purchase. Since buying this machine and using it, I have learned that it does do more than just hem – however, it’s still an expensive machine that only does a few things. I ultimately decided to buy this machine because I do occasional alterations + fitting for clients, plus I got that discount, so it made sense for me to own one. However, it took me 10 years to decide to buy one. Don’t feel bad if you are still in twin needle mode when you hem your knits!
One question that I get a lot is – what is the difference between a coverstitch machine and a serger? Basically, a serger is used for creating + finishing seams – it has a knife blade that cuts the excess fabric so threads can wrap around the edge. It is great for knits as the stitches stretch with the fabric. A coverstitch does not seam, it only finishes. You can use it for hemming, attaching binding or foldover elastic, or creating decorative stitches (but not creating the actual seams). It is also ideal for knits, as the stitches stretch. If you are deciding between the 2 machines, I find a serger to be more useful for the most part. If you are debating on getting one of those 2-in-1 serger/coverstitch combos… don’t. They are a pain to use (you have to pretty much disassemble them each time you want to switch between machines) and cost the same as having 2 separate machines. Unless space is a big issue, get 2 separate machines.
All right, that all out of the way – let’s talk about the machine!
Here is the machine in all it’s glory. Yay!
One of the features it includes is a free arm (so you can sew small things in the round, like the hem of a sleeve). This is the free arm. I don’t know why but this is very hilarious to me, it’s so tiny!
When you open the coverstitch, it’s pretty clean and empty on the inside. There is only 1 looper to thread, and it’s very, very easy. Like, threading a sewing machine easy (not like threading a serger).
One of the nice features of this machine is that the looper has a tab to pull it out so you can more easily thread it (unlike some sergers where you have to use tweezers to weasel the thread in the looper hole under the needle plate, lord, I’m getting the sweats just thinking about that shit lol). This one pops out, so you can thread it and pop it back in.
The inside of the machine shows all the different stitch types that are available – two and three thread overlock, and a chainstitch. Since the machine has 3 needles, it means you have more options in terms of stitch width and needle position (something I didn’t consider when I purchased the machine but I’m pretty stoked about now!).
There’s also a diagram on how to thread the machine. See what I mean? Fucking easy.
Using the machine was definitely a steep learning curve for me – my serger (a Babylock Imagine) does automatic tension adjustments, so I don’t have a lot of experience with manually adjusting tension to correct my stitches (that serger is awesome btw, I’ve had it for nearly 10 years and I swear to god if it broke I would buy another one in a heartbeat haha). There are needle tension dials on this serger, plus looper tension, PLUS another switch that goes from “soft” to “tight.” The user manual is very brief, but my understanding is that soft is ideal for your lightweight fabrics and single/double layers that experience fabric curling and tunneling. The tight is for heavier fabrics, multiple layers (such as flatlocking or applying binding), especially if you are prone to skipped stitches. You can also adjust the tension on the needles for tunneling and skipped stitches.
Something else I have noticed with this machine is that it prefers a heavier needle if I am sewing through multiple layers (again, flatlocking or binding, or using a heavy fabric). It really does best with a 90/14. If you experience skipped stitches, I would recommend changing to a heavier needle and see if that helps.
One thing to keep in mind when using this machine is that you have to knot your threads or they will unravel the second you look at them. Once you are finished sewing, you pull the needle threads to the back and knot them by hand. I didn’t realize this at first and could not understand why my hems were coming unraveled so quickly haha.
Here are the stitch options, front and back. From left to right:
– Binding: 2 needles + looper. I used a binding attachment for this! There are several size options of attachments, mine is the wider one (42mm-12mm). The finished binding is roughly 3/8″ wide. You cut strips of binding (this example is a woven, but it is AWESOME for knits) or use foldover elastic, feed them into the attachment and the machine wraps it around your fabric and stitches it in one go! It’s super fast and fun, but that shit was a steep learning curve. Also, that attachment is not cheap. Again, I got mine at a discount, but it was still a bit eye-wateringly expensive, just FYI.
– Chainstitch: Single needle + looper. This can be used to baste (apparently, since it’s easy to pull out. Jury is still out on that one in my experience tho), or hem jeans (look at your RTW jeans! The hem is chainstitched!). What I use it for is single-needle topstitching on knits, like on a neckline. It looks really clean and neat – but unlike a regular sewing machine, it also stretches!
– 3 needle coverstitch: 3 needles + looper. This creates a nice, stretchy hem for knits. Another thing you can use this stitch for is a mock flatlock. Serge your seams as normal, then stitch over them with the 3 needle coverstitch, with the needles on the wrong side of your garment (so the looper side ends up on the right side). It functions just like a flatlock – reasonably flat (non-irritating), strong, stretchy, and looks cool!
– 2 needle coverstitch: 2 needles + looper. You have several options for this stitch, since there are 3 places to put your 2 needles. Narrow or wide (shown above is wide), left or right. I have found that I prefer the wide for hemming, and the narrow with both needles to the left when using my binding attachment. You can also use this to do a mock flatlock, but I think the 3 needle version looks better.
So far, I’ve used my machine to make loads of underwear and tank tops. The binding attachment is perfect for finishing all the edges very quickly (again, you can either use strips of knit fabric or foldover elastic) while still keeping them stretchy like you’d get with regular lingerie elastic. The 3 thread coverstitch is awesome for activewear and creating flatlock seams that don’t rub or chafe and also look super professional. And, of course, I love using the 2 or 3 thread coverstitch for hemming my knits!
If you’re interested in seeing how the binder on this machine works, I have made it a highlighted story on my Instagram (computer users, I think you have to be on the actual app to view it). It’s pretty awesome! I will write a more in-depth post on using the binder, stay tuned for that.
So, do you need a coverstitch machine? Honestly, I can’t answer that question for you – it depends on how much you sew, your budget, and the amount of space you have to store one. Since I do this work professionally (and also sell these machines at the shop!), it made sense for me to own one. This machine does do a great hem on knits, but there is certainly a learning curve involved and it’s pretty expensive considering it only does a handful of functions. I also really really REALLY love that binding attachment; it’s great for finishing edges on underwear and activewear. However, a regular machine can also apply binding – albeit not as quickly and not with quite the same finish.
In regards to the learning curve – well, there is one. It took me several days of playing around with the machine, testing different stitches, settings and fabrics, before I felt like I really had a good handle on how the machine works. The only way to get past the learning curve is by PRACTICE. No amount of blog posts, YouTube videos, internet research, or telling everyone how scared you are of your machine is going to magically make it suddenly easy to understand. Get a glass of wine, put on some Duran Duran, and get to know your machine. Learn what works, what doesn’t work, try different needles and tension settings, rip out your stitches, make mistakes, learn from those mistakes, and take a lot of notes because I guarantee you won’t remember half this shit the next day. Like parallel parking a car for the first time, yes it’s a hot mess in the beginning. But eventually you get past fear and start working in autopilot. And also, for the record, I am an excellent parallel parker (after many, many years of practice lol).
If you are considering this machine, my advice NOT to buy this online (even if it’s cheaper). Your local shop will be able to show you how to use the machine and answer questions and troubleshooting you may have. I also am real big into supporting your local shop, and keeping them in business š If you don’t have a local shop that sells Janome – and this post swayed your decision to a yes – you can buy one from me at Craft SouthĀ š We ship to anywhere in the US for free and offer a discount below the MSRP you see on Janome’s website. There are no affiliate links in this post, however, I do receive a commission for every machine sale I make through our shop. FYI!
Whew! Ok, I think that’s a long enough post so I’m gonna wrap this up. Did I miss anything about this machine that you still have a burning question for? Do you have a coverstitch machine? Are you gonna buy one now? š
Eeeeee!! I’ve been waiting for this review for months! I still feel too new to sewing to buy a coverstitch…I just recently bought my first “grown up” serger (a Bernina L450…I had the Brother 1034-D that every excited/gullible sewing noob buys, but it’s really not that good of a machine and I felt like I outgrew it), and I’m tempted so much to buy a coverstitch just to complete the collection, but my bank account needs to recover, and I need more experience in general. I know that when the time comes it’ll probably be between the Janome 2000 and the Babylock BLCS-2. The BLCS-2 doesn’t have a free arm though; you would think machines that are intended to hem sleeves would be a bit more sleeve friendly, but the BLCS-2 doesn’t have one, nor does the Bernina L220 (which I looked at for about five minutes, but it doesn’t have any attachments like for bias binding and such). Anyway, thank you for the review!
TBH, I don’t use the free arm in my coverstitch as I find it can stretch stuff out too much. If I’m sewing something with a small circumference, I flip it so the wrong side is facing out, and then set the needles so they are inside the circle (I hope this makes sense, it is hard to explain). You can still sew in a loop, but instead of stretching the loop around something – it’s looping above and around nothing. Also, my serger doesn’t have a free arm and I have NEVER missed that. Just a thought!
Ooohh – great tip! Thanks Lauren.
Thank you for that really great idea. I admit I was drooling with jealousy when I saw your free arm, so I am so happy to hear your feedback and idea.
Thank you for the thorough review. I bought a Janome CoverPro about seven years ago, Iām a bit embarrassed to admit that it has been gathering dust for most of those seven years! I normally donāt buy machines online, but I did with this one due to a favourable exchange rate. I really struggled to get the tension right, in the end, I gave up and went back to twin needle hemming (which I finally did master, so something good came from it after all!). Perhaps I should try again, as I do sew with knits fairly regularly. Looking forward to your review on the binder attachment as well (somehow, I bought that too haha)
Anne Rose,
I have never been on utube. I was looking for a plain, small machine that I could rollover to and make a quick, plain hem. I was on eBay and saw the cover pro. I started searching for info on them. I have many sewing machines. I did not need another machine. Then I was on eBay and found the coverpro in RUSSIA with the most expensive attachment included. When it came, we had to get a transformer. I didnāt even think about getting electricity is different there. The gentleman, through an interpreter, helped us ātalkā. The shipping took a month but he had almost every attachments, the table and the $273.00 binder and threw this all in. The machine was $300. Our money which included everything including multiple pack of the different needles. The manual was in Russian. Hubby found an American version which he copied from the internet.
Now, I am ready to sew! Eeeks!!!
Bonniejean
That’s a good discount! I generally shop in the same way, though for sewing machines I prefer buying them in my local shop because of warranty and because the tax+duty fees in my country are so high it’s almost not worth it š¦
Congrats on a fancy machine!
I was afraid that was going to be the case with this machine if I didn’t learn it soon, so I’m glad I was able to get a handle on how it works. I would recommend trying it again and giving yourself some time to really get to know the machine – it’s a great machine to have!
Hi Lauren. I bought a Bernina L220 a few months ago for hemming and to chainstitch muslin seams. I was taking a pattern making class and while the rest of the class was unpicking seams, I made one tiny snip (I always lock the chainstitch seams) and my seam was apart and I was onto the next task – a huge time saver. Otherwise, I don’t use the machine very often, but love the professional results when I do.
That sounds awesome! I’ll admit, I really just like ripping my basting by pulling the pieces of fabric apart. It’s so cathartic haha!
Hi Lauren,
I have a Janome coverstitch 1000CPX, which I love. Twin needle hemming never worked for me, and now I get RTW looking hems instead of ugly tunnelly ragged hems. That alone was worth the $ for me. I noted that you appear to be manually pulling your threads to the back side of the fabric. If so, you should be able to remove your work from the machine in a way that it is done for you. I canāt imagine that the 2000 works much differently from the 1000. To remove, take a long pin or something similar and swipe underneath the raised presser from back to front, pulling the upper threads toward you. When you have a two or three inches of thread pulled out from under the foot, snip the threads. Pull the work straight back from under the foot until it releases, and the top threads will be pulled to the underside of the work.
I was manually pulling them, but I have since figured out how to pull them back in the way you described. It is much easier!
I came here to tell you the same thing so Iām glad you figured it out š
Thank you, I’m a novice and had no idea. Very enlightening. Which overlock to you have?
I have a Babylock Imagine.
I have the 1000CPX and echo the learning curve sentiment — wowzas!!! But, you’re right, practicing and just playing with it in general, makes all the difference. I love mine, but there were some moments where I was ready to chuck it out the window:) I’ll add too for anyone considering the machine that it’s important to make sure you’re using the correct needles (ELx705), which aren’t as easily found as other needles that you’re probably used to using. I’ve been lusting after the binder for awhile now and your review may just tempt me enough to pull the trigger! Yay!!
YES! Having the correct needles is key to getting the machine to function the way it should!
I have a Brother 2340CV. It took me a YEAR to figure it out. I read the manual and scoured the internet for advice, and about half of the time, what worked for me was the opposite of what the manual or other people recommended. This machine is unbelievably finicky. So I just wanted to warn others who are considering a coverstitch machine to stay away from the Brother 2340CV. For anyone who already has one and is struggling with it, I did eventually figure out how to keep it happy (most of the time) and wrote an extensive blog post on how I got it to work: https://growyourownclothes.com/2017/07/27/brother-2340cv-cover-stitch-machine-survival-guide/
Even with the struggles I’ve had getting to know my coverstitch machine, I love having one. I too thought it would be a frivolous, irresponsible purchase for a quite while, but now I don’t know how I ever got along without one. If I upgrade my coverstitch machine, I want to try the new Juki MCS-1500, since it seems to be getting nothing but good reviews, and I’m very happy with my Juki serger.
I’ve never used the Brother coverstitch, but based on my experience with Brother sergers I would tell people to stay FAR away from them. I feel like the only people who like that Brother serger have also never used a nice serger, so they don’t have a good comparison (and once they do use a better serger, they end up getting rid of the Brother haha). They are just very cheaply made, and this is a very obvious example of getting what you pay for. I am glad to hear that you were able to finally wrangle your machine into working for you, that is awesome!! Fingers crossed you eventually get your Juki upgrade š š š
Awesome review and details!! There is a helpful video from Sure-Fit Designs that describes a trick to lock the threads at the end of the seams so you don’t have to worry about tying a knot. Life changer. In a nutshell, you turn the hand wheel to get the needle(s) in the highest position, lift the presser foot, pull the needle threads toward you and snip them. Then give a little tug of the fabric to the back and then off the side and – presto! – the needle threads are pulled to the back of the fabric and all locked up.
I auto pull my threads to the back, however, if I leave them untied they become unraveled. I’ll have to check out that video, thank you for the recommendation!
I have this model too and I love it. I got a binder attachment for Christmas 2016 but it didn’t come with instructions and all the you tube vids are rubbish and i haven’t been able to work it out so a tutorial on that would be brilliant! I don’t even know how properly position it – in your instagram it looked like it was almost at a right angle – would that be right? Please do a review soon!!
I think the key to figuring out how to position it is by lots of trial and error haha. You have to see what you are lining it up with, test it, check the results, try again. There are tons of tutorials on how to use the binder, which I found helpful (check YouTube). The correct positioning is hard to explain, though, so you’ll have to trial and error your way through it.
Ha ha, no short cuts with this then! I will put aside a weekend at some point because it sounds like it is worth the effort. Thanks.
Lauren, Lynda had the right of it but you do not have to knot the threads. There is a video of Joy Bernhart on YouTube and she shows how when you pull the front needle threads from under the presser foot, give a tug and they will knot and secure your stitch. Then give a tug to the back and the looper thread will knot. I actually use a little dental tool like that mean technician uses to scrape your teeth in a cleaning to reach under the foot and snag those front threads. I have the 900CPX and I love it. I use it on every single garment that would call for a double thread hem. Congrats on the purchase!
Thanks for finally posting! Just got the 1000CPX from a friend and I love, love, love it! You’re totally right about just getting to know your machine, have no fear and conquer! DYING to start doing undies with the binding attachment, can’t wait to hear more about your experience! In the meantime…. Which way do you prefer to cut your knit strips? parallel or perpendicular to the grain?
It depends on the knit. If it’s a stable knit, perpendicular. If it’s a really stretchy/thin knit with a 4 way stretch, parallel is easier to work with.
Excellent article! Never knew what a coverstitch machine did. Was thinking about purchasing a serger (not that I need one at this point in time) and saw the coverstitch machines. Now I know the difference and can make an educated decision when the time comes. Thank you!
Thanks for the review! So helpful. I bought the Janome 2000CPX a while ago. I had wanted one for ages and am delighted to have left the tunnel twin needle days behind! However – I still have difficulties getting the tension right. Tell me itās a beginner thing! Or is tension tricky with the coverstitch?
I think it just takes a lot of practice and trial and error, to see what works with what fabric/needles and what doesn’t!
Great post!! Learning curve is right! It takes a while, but is worth it. I still have some things to learn and practice. I appreciate your excellent help!!
Thanks for info on the binding attachment. I got one with my machine and have not even attempted to try it. Would love a tutorial on that if you could make one please!
I have a Babylock combo machine – serger and coverstitch – and love it. I was greatly intimidated and thought I might have made a bad choice, but after some practice, it is very easy to switch back and forth quickly. And I am not sewing genius! Youtube has so many great videos to show how to do it and I have done it about 15 times and do not have to consult videos anymore.
A GREAT review – at least to your use of the “f” bomb.
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What settings do you use most? I use a narrow stitch with two needles to sew kids clothes and the end result never stretches as much as it should. I’m also near enough guaranteed to get skipped stiches when going over seams.
It varies wildly depending on the fabric I am using, but I generally like the wide stitch with 2 needles.
I appreciate your tutorial. Do you have them on hand or is there a wait period from the time of order. We will be coming through Nashville in May. Would live to stop in and actually see one. What does your store charge for a 2000cpx? Thank you, Sandy.
Hello! We don’t keep stock of any machines; but we can order them and have them shipped directly to you for free. You’ll need to chat with the store directly about the price of the 2000CPX as occasionally we do run promotions that will change the price of the machine.
I love you! What a great blog.