Ahh, Vogue 1395. First, I made you up in cherries, and it was good. Then, I modified the shit out of you and made you up in silk plaid gingham, and it was good. And now, we’ve come full circle back to square one. And that’s good, too.
Sometimes, ya just gotta stick with the ol’ TNT’d version, amirite?
I am also realizing that I took way too many pictures for a dress that will essentially warrant the same post as the cherry original, but, you know, whatever. My blog, my rules. I was having a good hair day that day. And my back yard looks BEYOND gorgeous. I will never tire of all that green!
Speaking of gorgeous- how about that hand-dyed silk that I used? I can’t take any credit for it (other than the actual sewing of the garment) – it was given to me by Elizabeth after a big studio clean-out. She made me an entire grab bag, full of mostly silks – some stamped, some natural, some dyed (in both solid colors and what you see here), and all of them amazing. I think a lot of this was leftover from discontinued collections, but some of it was from her personal stash. Needless to say, this is a woman with fabulous taste in fabric and I was really happy with everything she gave me. I also spent WAY too long agonizing over what to make with it! It was so special and I was afraid to cut into it only to later regret using it in case I later ended up having better idea.
This piece of hand-dyed silk crepe was probably my favorite. It’s so thick and lush and it has an amazing drape. I love the soft colors so much. Pairing it up with V1395 seemed like the best idea – a pattern that I already know fits and sews up well, that I know I love to wear. I actually made this way before I even left for Peru – so, it’s been in my closet for more than a month at this point. ha.
I can’t think of anything else to say about the pattern that I haven’t already gone over in my previous posts. The giant arm hole issue has now, thankfully, been fixed, although the neckline is strangely a bit wider than it is in the cherry version (probably due to fabric choice – this crepe is a heavier than the silk cherries). I didn’t follow much in order of construction – this is made with French seams and machine-rolled hems, both of which were a lot easier than what the pattern directions were asking me to do. I also used my own method for applying the binding, again instead of following the directions. The finishing on this dress is definitely an improvement over the last dress.
Here, you can see both the arm hole and how the dress looks untied. As well as what I guess is now my superhero pose. Damn, that arm hole still looks low. It’s ok, though, because the overwrap covers it when it’s tied.
I love all the little details on this dress… especially the elastic waist. Totally buffet-friendly! 🙂
The skirt in this pattern is lined, and while I tried to get away with not lining it – I realized that the silk is pretty freaking see-through. It’s not so bad on the top, because of the overlay, but the skirt was pushing being almost sheer. For these sorts of linings, I prefer to use china silk, as it’s really thin and lightweight. Of course, I had NONE of that on hand and I didn’t feel like ordering any, so the lining I used is just white silk crepe. It makes the skirt a bit thicker and heavier than I’d prefer, but at least it’s not see-through!
I always have a hard time cutting into fabric that is given to me – sometimes it takes me YEARS to actually settle on a pattern. I’m always paranoid that I’ll have an even better idea later down the line, and be pissed at myself for already using the fabric. But that’s kind of a crappy way of looking at things – I mean, it’s not like the fabric is doing me any good just sitting on the shelf, you know? So it feels good to get past that and actually use some of the gorgeous stuff that’s been given to me!
With that being said – I have a few more pieces that I finally cut & sewed that were also on the “too nice to actually use for something” list, so watch this space for those! Who else has dream fabric that they’re afraid to cut into? Maybe we should start a support group!
I’m the same way about hoarding gifted fabrics. But … those 1930s and 1940s flour sacks, that my grandmother thought were too pretty too cut into … and gave to my mother … who also thought they were too pretty to cut into … are now made up into some of the most comfortable pajamas I have ever worn. By the time I was gifted the fabric, it was too old and fragile and faded and/or stained to wear in public. I don’t mind using it up: it is not in mint condition, by any means, and local museums already have more than their share of flour sacking samples.
I think it’s awesome that you made those flour sacks into pajamas! Now you can wear and enjoy them every day 🙂
Your dress is gorgeous! Your hair is beautiful and so are you!
Aw, thank you so much!!
Supercute!! I love it!!
Thank you!
Beee-YOU-teeefullll!!!
Thank you!
This dress is SO DREAMY!!! Love it!
Dreamy is a good word to describe it! 😀
I love this dress on you. I’m tempted to buy the pattern as it looks like a perfect, easy to wear summer dress – but right now our weather is more like autumn!!
Color me jealous! I WISH our weather was a little more fall-like (although that might be kind of weird, since it is July). I am just trying to take advantage of being able to wear these little silk dresses for as long as I can get away with! 🙂
Gah, I’ve made three 1395s already and now I definitely need a shibori silk version too. Love it!
Shibori silk for everyone! Bonus if, like me, you don’t have to dye it yourself 😀 haha!
Blue and white. Tie dye. Silk. What is not to love. You look great in it too, I think the shape with the tie front is very flattering and I like the way the sleeves have that flirty little flare.
The little flare of the sleeves is my favorite part! Such a sweet little detail 🙂
Oh silk… so pretty but so expensive. What a luck duck, getting a whole bag of fabric!
I do have a hard time cutting into my most precious fabrics, too. I have 2-3 vintage pieces hanging in dry cleaner bags in my closet that I love looking at. heh I bet I’d love them more if I could wear them.
If you’re not ready to cut into them just yet, you could always hang them on the wall like a gorgeous piece of fabric art. I’ve considered doing that myself, but I don’t have enough wall space!
im on my way to steal this. like right now… so you know in case you see this missing.. you know it was me
can you draw me a paint diagram of how the pattern pieces are at the top and text me? HAHHAHAHA i’ve been trying to wrap (see what i did there) my head around making a cape dress and seeing the pic of the back waist thingy untied is pretty much the same thing i’ve been looking for.
Girl, you better. You owe me some hangs 😛
I will take a photo of the instructions and text them to you! My MS paint skills are surprisingly pretty good, but I’d venture to guess that the professionally drawn diagrams are probablyyyy better than anything I am capable of.
Me! I have fabric I’m too scared to sew! Right now, I have some lovely cotton lawn in my stash that’s begging to become a By Hand London Flora. I have purchased the matching thread, zip and lining fabric, and yet it’s STILL to become my dream dress, and all because the fabric was a gift from my parents and I’m so worried I’ll mess the whole thing up. I can chop up fabric I’ve purchased myself with gay abandon, but not so with ‘special’ fabric.
Oh! At least you know what you want to make with it! My probably is that I just can’t settle on a pattern. I say GO FOR IT! Make a muslin, get confident with the assembly, and then sew up that dream dress!
This is one (plus!) beautiful dress — great pattern. And it must feel absolutely heavenly to wear!
Indeed it does! 😀
Ooo, that silk looks absolutely lush! I have some pieces of fabric that are “waiting” (for what exactly?), but I’ve gotten a lot better at believing that fabric made into garments are far better than fabric sitting on a shelf. There have been times when I’ve waited so long to use a piece of fabric that my style and preferences have totally shifted in the meanwhile!
That has TOTALLY happened to me!! Hate it when that happens!
I want some fabric like that! But in hot pink because that is how I roll.
Dude, this would be beautiful in hot pink instead of blue!
This looks so lovely! I have a big pile of fabrics I am saving. Not sure for what though…
Go on and sew up those fabrics, let them live up to their potential! 🙂
Love this! I just bought a copy of this pattern because I like your versions so much. I think I’m going to use some rayon challis I have hanging around. 😀
I definitely have those “afraid to cut into” fabrics. Specifically, I bought fish leather in Iceland that I’m kind of nervous about. I also have some beautiful silks… I just need to go for it, though!
Wait a minute – fish leather?! Imma need you to elaborate on that one. Is it leather made of fish, or leather that has fish on it? Inquiring minds need to know!
It’s actually made of fish! It’s the craziest, most awesome stuff ever. Super soft, too! Here’s a pic: https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10426092_882687914614_8226950249040227632_n.jpg?oh=7201431493ce33fe7187714e3556a275&oe=56452663
Well DAMN that is amazing!!!
Love it, its a perfect combo of dress and pattern. I don’t think the armhole is too big, it goes with the languid style of the dress. Thanks for the Elizabeth link I am in love with her clothes!
Aren’t they great!? Wait till you see FW15. Everything is AMAZING.
Put me down for membership in the scaredy-fabrics-hoarder club! But I actually love waiting for the perfect moment to make those precious fabrics up. I have made garments that fit badly, and they annoy me every time I wear them ! There is NO way I’m letting that happen to my favourite fabrics! Anyway, you look smashing in this. I bet the silk feels amazing!
Oh, I totally understand – it definitely sucks to make something with special fabric and get the fit all wrong! Thank god for multiple wearable muslins 😀
Beautiful fabric, beautiful dress. What bothers me, though, is the unevenness of the hem. It’s significantly higher in front than in back. Is that the result of tying the overlay?
I believe the hem is mostly due to how I am standing and also because I pulled the dress down to the back (the large-ish neckline was has a tendency to gape sometimes). I mean, I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t take huge pains to get a perfectly even hemline or anything – however, it doesn’t look nearly that uneven in real life. Also, you can see that the waistline is raised as well as the hem, hence fro pulling it toward the back. I noticed it in the pictures and chose to ignore it 🙂 haha!
Excellent use of special gifted fabric! Would wear this in an instant – if, you know, it fit. 😉
I don’t think I have any tendencies to hoard fabric because it’s too special, but I can be REALLY indecisive about what to make. Especially if it’s fabric that is a little rare in my stash… So I can totally relate to having trouble committing to just one pattern for a piece of fabric.
I think my hoarding stems for indecisiveness – like, what if I think of something better to make it with? Ahhh!!
This Elizabeth seems so nice and generous. If I were rich I would definitely buy her whole collections. For now, I’m just drooling upon every pieces. I know the feeling about precious fabrics. My husband bought me some Liberty voile when in London 2 years ago (!) and I still can’t decide what I will sew with it! So afraid to spoil it.
Yeah, she’s a pretty awesome and generous person! It’s really great to be able to work for someone like that 🙂
That’s a great dress! So envious of that silk – to die for. I’ve made that pattern before and struggled with the size of the armholes too. But the end result is worth it.
I wonder what the deal is with the arm holes? They were SO LOW.
Great dress! I think the fabric found it’s perfect pattern. I actually just wrote up a post that will go live next week about the fear of ruining something special. I recently conquered the fear of cutting into my first Liberty print. Happy to report all is well and the sky has not fallen.
Oh, I can’t wait to read your post! And I’m happy to hear that the Liberty project was a success – it can be stressful at first, but man, it feels good when you realize that everything worked out fine in the end 😀
Do you do anything special to pre-wash your silk or just go the route you’ll be using for later washings? Its gorgeous!!
I tend to have grandiose plans for fabric and then not enough sewing time to get everything sewn. I’m on a “no new fabric” plan until some of the stash is clothes!
Nothing special, but I do machine wash (on cold) and dry my silk before doing anything with it. It does soften the colors a bit and give it more of a washed look (and take away any shine), but it also means that the silk is machine washable since it’s had the shit pre-shrunk out of it 🙂
I am glad you used the fabric because the dress is gorgeous. I too suffer from “too nice to use” which I inherited from my mother. Except that I feel that way not only about fabric but about shoes, handbags, jewelry, etc. but like you, I have been trying to break free from this outlook.
Ah, I know exactly what you mean! I tend to be the same way, although I’ve made great strides to get past it. With stuff like that, I try to remind myself that it’s not gonna go away if I use it too much (but it might disintegrate in storage – or my style might change over time and I realize I don’t care for it anymore!). Even if it gets dirty, damaged or lost – it’s still better than it rotting away in a closet for forever. At least it was getting used and loved up to that point, you know?
that silk looks absolutely lush! Bonus for not having to dye it yourself. the tie-dye effect goes so nicely with the pattern, I don’t think you could have chosen a better one.
Thank you!
I have a whole sewing room full of fabric I’m afraid to cut. Just got an amazing new Pfaff and have only attempted a white linen shirt. Not even finished because the marking tool I used won’t wash out so I am trying to wash it out before I finish.
You inspired me to cut my sinister swarm fabric! Think I will make Anna or possibly look for another great pattern. I need to get sewing with my machine 🙂
Yesss!! Cut into that special fabric and use that beautiful new Pfaff!! It sounds like the perfect afternoon to me 😀
Just love your dress btw.
Super cute. Yeap. The third is just a cute as the first and second. I just finished my first version of this pattern. I should have done some tweaking, but there is always next time. 😉
Ahhh this is so lovely! I’ve traced the pattern for my first V1395, so it’s great to see other people’s versions. Your fabric is amazing 🙂
Yup. Another gorgeous dress! I too have trouble cutting into fabric…even the cheap stuff…