Fair warning: I am way WAY excited about pattern. Words cannot express.
When Tasia announced that she was releasing a Trouser pattern specifically for those of us with a generous lower half, I was already pretty excited. As with, well, *everyone* who sews pants, there are always mounds of alterations that need to be done before you can even cut into your fabric. For me especially, it’s the kind of stuff that requires a muslin & flat pattern adjusting – the adjustments don’t fare well with pinching & letting out seams. So naturally, I’ve kept my eye out for pattern companies that cater to my body shape so I can deal with less alterations. I already knew this pattern was going to be a go, regardless of the style – but wait, have you actually seen these trousers??? OMG WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE.
I think Sewaholic might be my new favorite pattern company. I’ve made up a handful of her patterns, and the more I see/work with, the more I’m just incredibly impressed. This pattern is no exception – it is wonderful. Thanks to the extra ease allowed for curvy hips & full thighs (and a narrow waist!), these fit almost perfectly straight out of the envelope. There are a million little pieces, but everything goes together supremely well & the instructions are clear & straightforward without being dumbed down. These shorts weren’t just sewn – they were practically engineered.
So anyway, let’s talk about my shorts!
This gingham was one of the few pieces I allowed myself to buy during the biannual 50% off sale at my local fabric store (I’m saving my pennies for Chicago, eep!). I REALLY wanted giant gingham shorts, although a few people gave me the side-eye when I showed them the fabric lol. Whatever, I love them! The fabric is quite sheer, so almost every single piece (save for a couple facings) is underlined with cotton batiste. Cutting out all those pieces, plus making sure the gingham matched up, plus underlining – I think I spent close to 3 hours just prepping everything for sewing! Totally worth it, though. And as an encouragement to anyone who fears plaids – cutting it out kinda sucks. A lot. But once it’s cut, everything goes together with very little drama.
Like I said, the muslin fit pretty well straight out of the envelope. I usually have to make a few drastic changes to my pattern (adding room for a full butt, reducing the waistband circumference & shortening the crotch), so this was a relief! I did pinch out the tiniest bit of length from the front crotch – about 1/4″ maybe, tapering to nothing at the side seams. I also added another small wedge extension – again, about 1/4″ – to the back crotch for a tiny bit of extra room. These are a size 0, btw. Haven’t fit into that size in a few years haha 🙂
The only design change I made to the pattern was cutting the waistbands & welt pockets on the bias – I didn’t want to deal with matching those stripes. I do have a little bit of rippling at the waistband, which I also had with my Clover jeans (which, come to think of it, that waistband was also cut on the bias. Hmmmmm). But it’s no big deal – I just pressed the shit outta it. Ironing solves everything!
I also took about 2″ off the hem – the original length is a smidge too long for my frame. And anyway, I like wearing short shorts. Deal with it.
Don’t my welt pockets look gooood? I think those & all the action going on with those fly facings (patience, grasshopper, we’ll be looking at that in a minute!) make these pants look super nice. I may make the pockets a little deeper next time, however – these are only about 2″ deep! No room for the wallet!
Here are some close-ups (I told you! I’ve gone craaaazy!)
(I am very sorry, I have no idea why this is so blurry!)
As you can see, I couldn’t get the pocket area to line up perfectly, gingham-wise. The lines on the leg are straight, though, so I guess it’s ok!
Isn’t the facing fabric so pretty?! It was a (handmade)pillowcase I found at the Goodwill Outlet. I barely had enough to cut all my facing pieces. I just love the colors against the black & white gingham.
You know, in retrospect, I should have checked that the bobbin thread was white when I was stitching on the waistband – that black thread on the waistband facing looks kinda dumb.
Close-up of welt-y goodness 🙂
Oh, and just for the record – I used ONLY the instructions to assemble these. No additional help via books or blog posts for that fly/facing or the welt pockets (these are the first welt pockets I have ever sewn, btw). The instructions were great & I am pleased with the results!
Oh, and not only do the pockets have these fun insides, but they are also faced with the gingham so it doesn’t show when you’re just walking around or whatever. I’m telling you – this pattern is legit!
I’m so so thrilled with my first pair of these – I can’t wait to make more! I want to make some corduroy shorts for winter (I’ve never been one for shorts with tights but I think this style of short would actually look really good!), and of course trousers. Trousers in every color, wheee!
These are fantastic Lauren- the fit, the gingham, the lining. Just gorgeous.
Wow, I just love these on you. Cool, young and fun.
Really great work once again Lauren!
Whoa dude, these look great!! I’m glad to hear it was a totally painless process– isn’t it fun when a pattern just WORKS with no drama?!
pffft who doesn’t love gingham shorts! they look great, I might have to invest in this pattern!
Tasia the engineer, love it! These look great – esp. love the facing fabric. I am glad to hear you found it so easy to work with and I hope to get to it myself sooner than later!
Holy cuteness, Batman! I love these! That tears it for me, I have to make these pants. I bought this pattern and it’s been languishing away in my giant pattern storage, waiting to be pulled out and loved. These are so adorable, Lauren, just fantastic! All those gingham haters were just silly.
They look great Lauren! now you can coach me through making mine…hoping they’ll be ready by Summer 2013. 😉
Now that I’ve figured them out, I think you’ll do ok! You’ll just need to practice sewing straight/precise lines for those welt pockets 🙂
OMGZ SO CUTE!! I loved that you used different fabric for the facing. I haven’t used any Sewaholic patterns yet but I have a million of them bookmarked. I hear great things about them.
I am in LOVE with the floral facings – such a cute idea! I’m also liking your tag that says “hot damn this is my jam” =)
Nice job! I actually like the black thread on the facings. Ties the inside and outside together 🙂 Also, those welt pockets are amazing. I’m making Clovers for the first time in a few weeks, and the pockets have given me palpitations…
OMG. Of course you make the cutest Thurlows EVER! Love that gingham, love the lining. They’re perfect!
I love these! I like short-short too… but it’s been a few years (and more than a few pounds) since I wore any out in public hehe:) – you’re look really great!!
Your shorts look very nice and comfortable. I’ve seen several of these made and they all appear to fit well. They appear to be a few inches below the waist. I was just wondering whether they pass the no crack sitting test (in other word do the gape in the back)?
Mine don’t gape at all, since the shorts curve over my hips & in at my waist. I don’t need a belt to keep the ‘crack hidden lol 🙂
Mine sit right at my navel, btw.
Looking good Lauren
When I first spotted those welt pockets my thought was you had for sure done some previously because they looked so perfect, so good job! They fit so well.
These are perfect shorts! I love the materials, the style, and your workmanship. It would be worth a long prep time to have shorts that actually fit. We fat-bottomed girls make the rocking world go round! And I mean that in a totally good way.
AMAZING!!!!
Perfect shorts! I am completely the wrong shape for these shorts but you make me want them anyway!
These look fab in the gingham! Kudos on the welt pockets- I just made my first ones recently as well and they are a great feature and make everything look a little more rad, IMHO 😀
Good job! I really like the welt pockets, they look perfect. Also, lining things in fun fabric XD
These are super cool Lauren! I wasn’t really moved by this pattern when it came out, but your version is definitely swaying me…
As (what feels like) the only non-pear sewist, I feel a bit left out by the awesomeness that is Sewaholic. These shorts are fantastic, and I really like the plaid. 🙂
Love, love, love!
These are great… I can’t wait to take this pattern out and try it!
Wow! I’m impressed – these are awesome!! I may have to try some Sewaholic patterns.
These look amaze! I have a badonka donk so I’m glad to hear this is suited just for that, I’ve had my eye on this pattern since it was released. Yours are super cute!
Ok, you’ve completely sold me on these trousers. I WANTS THEM.
Awesome! It’s great seeing how fun the insides can be with alternate fabric.
I love them! Great job!
yee haw! These are amazing! I love the gingham and am soo impressed by your mad plaid matching skills.
Super cute! I want to make my own pants too! I wonder if Thurlow would be easy enough to convert into wide-leg?
I loove your facing fabric 🙂
These are magnificent. And that floral pillowcase inner magic makes me very, very happy.
So cuuuuuuuuute! (the shorts) You look awful cute too.
I agree with you about Sewaholic Patterns. Tasia really puts a lot of thought into how to make great patterns.
These are supah cute! Cutie McCuterstein
I am too excited for words by large check gingham shorts….awesome!! Everything about them is perfection and your assurances about them living up to the sewaholic standard make me mad to begin! I loooove all the details…. I can’t wait to get into my thurlow, It’s creeping to the too of the pile and I’ve fabric for making many varieties including some mini dogtooth silk/wool shorts for tights, but I want summer ones now, esp seeing yours!!
I love them and you look wonderful in them. It goes without saying that the giant gingham makes me heart miss a beat but all the other little details are just awesome too. I guarantee there’ll be many a Thurlow pattern sold on the strength of these beautiful shorts! x
I love your shorts! If only my legs were good enough to wear them,sigh. I will just content myself with making the trousers as they are on my list for next season.
Awesomesauce!!!!
Love them! I keep thinking about buying this pattern, but I’ve decided I need to at least complete either the Cambie or Minoru (which I’ve already purchased) before I do. I definitely have a pant/shorts phobia, like many folks who sew, so it’s awesome to see such a glowing review on a pattern!
Super cute!
They are super duper cute! I wish I had a bum to fill shorts out properly!
So much love for these shorts! They look utterly fantastic, hats off to you.
Your shorts look great! The pattern is fab isn’t it! I’m a proper seawholic fangirl, and I love my shorts!!!
These look amazing!! I love the gingham so very much, and paired with that fun and flirty facing, it becomes the most perfect garment ever. I desperately need to go home now and make up a pair of my own!! I love Sewaholic patterns – they work so well for my body type and that makes me happy 🙂
PS when are you coming to Chi-town??
We’ll be there 9/13-9/17 🙂 I need to send an email to see what day would work best for everyone to meet up!
Amazingly awesome shorts!!! Well done on summoning up enough patience, and for matching those checks so well xx
Well, arent you a fire cracker! I love when you said “just press the shit out of it” I cracked up!
Your shorts look so professional, and love the lining too. Cut and fit look perfect, and what a body! Wow, you got it all goin on with these shorts.
Question, how do you work out that you need to modify the crotch seam? Did you make the shorts first out of scrap material?
Cheers glenn from down under
🙂
Haha, thank you! I always make a muslin of pants before I cut into my good fabric so I can asses the fit. Stuff like crotch length can’t really be modified after you’ve cut the pieces (well, not without a giant seam), so it’s best to make a mock-up pair first and then apply your changes to the flat pattern 🙂
Hi again, what material do you use for the muslin for pants? I’m thinking it would have to be very similer to the proper fabric or you wouldnt get a realistic fit. What do you do with the muslin once you are happy with the fit? I would feel it would be a waist of fabric?
Cheers Glenn
I just use whatever I have on hand… usually old sheets or scrap fabric (I rarely use actual musin, unless I can get it for *very* cheap). If the fabric needs to have a special property – i.e., a bit of stretch – then I will buy inexpensive fabric with the same properties to get an accurate fitting. Once my muslin is complete, I usually toss it (unless I used a lot of fabric – then I tear it up & use the fabric for another muslin). I guess it is a bit wasteful to throw it away, but considering I use fabric that was headed for the trash anyway (scraps, stained/old sheets, etc) I don’t feel so bad about it!
Hey lauren, thx for all the info, apreicate it a lot.
I had a look in your closet and was amazed by how much you have produced. Do you have a full time job? I find I can only get an hour or two hours a night to sew and wish I had more.
Is there a reason why you named your cat amelia earhart? I love bttf too!
Cheers glenn
I work a full-time job that is definitely not sewing-related… I sew after work (usually only for a couple of hours) and lots and lots on the weekends. Wish I had time to sew more!
There’s no reason why Amelia has that name, it just fit her & I like my pets to have first/last names haha 🙂
With a cat named amelia earhart I thought you might be a pilot or interested in aircraft. I fly helicopters on the weekend so don’t get a chance to sew then. My problem is I like too many things , other then my main job (in IT, boring!) And don’t have enough time for them all. My gf wishes I had more time to sew as well, as I take it in turns sewing something for her, then me, but she doesn’t complain when I take her flying in the chopper!
Cheers glenn
I love them! The gingham is awesome and the lining really sets it off. I think this pattern is going on my wishlist!
These are so cute. I’m very impressed with your pattern matching! Any chance you would do a tutorial on that?