Completed: Colette Pastille

12 Mar

Well you guys, I defeated the Pastille pattern! Wheeeee me!

I actually feel pretty good about this dress – I wasn’t totally crazy about it when I saw the pictures in the book (I think the coral color of the fabric – while lovely, just looks waay too much like the model’s skin. It would have been better suited for a lady with a darker complexion), but I think that the overall shape, if properly fitted, is actually quite flattering. And while it really lends itself well to a print, I think it would make a sweet little basic black dress, since the shape is unique enough in itself 🙂


Fitting… fitting this thing was weird. I already glossed over the process in my last Pastille post, but to summarize – while I pretty much *always* need a FBA, this pattern did not require one (didn’t figure that out until after I’d cut & taped all over the tissue though, arhghhghh!!). Actually, the finished measurements were just wrong – I cut a size 2 and the bust measurement was much closer to 36″, not the 34.5″ the book says. Consider yourselves warned!
The next fitting problem I had was with that damn back… I didn’t take any pictures of my muslin, but it billowed out all over the place across the upper back. I mean, it plain made me look like I had a hunchback. I eventually concluded that the upper back was longer than the front, so I did a 3/4″ swayback adjustment at the lengthen line that tapered to nothing at the side seams. That pretty much fixed it!


The rest of the dress fit fine with no other adjustments.

I actually tried to make this dress without the facings for my first go-round, but those sleeves are way too curved to handle bias tape. So back to facings (although mine are interfaced with cotton muslin, not fusible interfacing). I tacked them down as best I could since they like to pop out; sewing the trim at the neckline also helped. Rather than do fancy finishing work on the inside, I opted to finish the raw edges with a simple serged seam. I wanted the making of this dress to be quick & painless!

There *are* pleats at the bottom of the dress… I think doing those took the longest! I followed the handbook directions & thread traced all the lines, using different colors of thread for the various fold lines. It worked beautifully, but pulling out aaaaaall those threads was a pain in the ASS. No tips for making it go smoother (I don’t regret thread-tracing; it really did make lining up those pleats a breeze), just be prepared to spend some quality time with your seam ripper 🙂

You can’t tell due to my super duper busy printed fabric, but all the darts & seams actually line up perfectly. Just trust me on this one 🙂

I also would like to point out that my hair needs a dye job something fierce (I actually had a hairstylist examine my roots the other day & declare that I’m naturally dishwater blonde – which blew my fucking mind. I’ve always been a brunette, wtf?!). If you’re thinking, “Whatever, your roots don’t look bad!” that’s because I ‘shopped the shit out of them teehee 🙂

The dress looks best with a belt, in my opinion. Wish I had a yellow belt, but the one I have on hand is too neon yellow for this print & the thrift gods have been ignoring me lately in the belt department.



Pastille - neckline

Pastille - pleats at hem
The hem ended up being way too long for me, and I’d already sewn in the pleats, so I just flipped up the bottom of the hem & sewed it to the inside. This is why my pleats are at the very bottom of my dress. I think it worked out fine!

Pastille - zipper
I am really proud of how my zipper turned out! Basically perfect!

This whole dress was a great/cheap stash bust. Feels good to cull that shit down! I didn’t have *quite* a long enough zipper (I think mine was 20″ instead of 24″ or something), so I have to pull the dress over my head to get it on hahaha. Oh well!

So what do you think? Pastille – yay or nay?

76 Responses to “Completed: Colette Pastille”

  1. Alycia March 12, 2012 at 11:32 am #

    I LOVE IT. SO gorgeous.

  2. Erika March 12, 2012 at 11:33 am #

    looks great in a print

  3. oonaballoona March 12, 2012 at 11:35 am #

    crazy cute on you, especially that last print.

    hmm… would also go well with dishwater blonde locks…

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 12:41 pm #

      Haha I really want to strip my hair out now & see what I look like as a dishwater blonde, but unfortunately I just have way too much dye on it 😦

      • Anne May 16, 2014 at 9:14 am #

        I was looking through PR for reviews of the pastille dress and loved yours. I follow your blog – and didn’t immediately recognise you with this hair colour. I love it! Prefer it to the green. I’m tall so will have some big fitting issues but your version makes it worthwhile!

  4. aliesje March 12, 2012 at 11:37 am #

    Wow! I also wasn’t keen on the coral version in the book – I thought it looked more like a fitting shell than anything. But this is fantastic! I’m even thinking of prints I could make it with!

  5. Michelle March 12, 2012 at 11:44 am #

    I completely agree that the styled dress in the pattern book is the wrong shade for the model. In fact, I wasn’t drawn to the dress as it’s advertised at all, but I like the way your printed version turned out. It seems like the fit adjustments you made worked really well. The dress looks made for you…. oh wait… 😀

  6. sophie (monbouton) March 12, 2012 at 11:48 am #

    wonderful! although it’s a bit sad that we can’t really see the pleats from a distance, especially considering all the hard work it gave you! But you did a great job!

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 12:41 pm #

      I know; it really pissed me off when I finished the pleats and realized you couldn’t see them! Argh! I just keep telling myself that they provide a nice ~texture~ at the hem hahaha

  7. Molly March 12, 2012 at 11:48 am #

    That’s super cute, and I hope you magically find a yellow belt soon!

  8. montanachic March 12, 2012 at 11:56 am #

    You have an amazing fit on this, it looks great and you look fabulous!

  9. Janice March 12, 2012 at 12:00 pm #

    Hard to tell on the Pastille, b/c apparently everything you make looks awesome. 🙂 It looks like there are a lot of adjustments to be made on the base pattern though, but isn’t that with everything generally? Nothing for me fits straight out of the pattern, unless maybe they’re size 16 Dubarry dresses.

    I can’t tell at all with the hair, so good Photoshopping skills!

  10. LLBB March 12, 2012 at 12:02 pm #

    Wow, it fits so nicely!! I know you said before that you aren’t a huge fan of the fabric, but I love it and think it looks great on you.

  11. Jennifer March 12, 2012 at 12:03 pm #

    A great interpretation of Pastille (love your fabric choice), and clearly your battles with fitting this one paid off!

  12. didyoumakethat March 12, 2012 at 12:05 pm #

    That looks lovely on you. I love the way you write things up with a generous smattering of the ‘sh’ word! The dress totally works and I bet those pleats are cute as a button in real life.

  13. Sue March 12, 2012 at 12:05 pm #

    Go, you! This is so cute. 🙂

  14. Emily March 12, 2012 at 12:05 pm #

    Man, I am so glad I wasn’t the only one turned off by the Pastille styling in the book. It washed out that poor girl and she looked so uncomfortable. Yours is adorable and such a great fit!

  15. Marie March 12, 2012 at 12:10 pm #

    How do you go from having a bad sewing / stitching day, to then churning this beauty out! You sure ironed out all your issues perfectly as the fit is spot on! I really love the little red trim you used, so sweet! i think you’re right about it’s potential as an LBD too!

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 12:43 pm #

      I made this dress my bitch, that’s how! HAHAHAHA

      No, really, I just wanted to move onto bigger & better things, so I sucked it up & put the last finishing touch on it Friday night 🙂 I was fairly certain it was going to be a wadder, but I guess not!

      • Marie March 12, 2012 at 5:44 pm #

        Hehe, good work!!!

  16. Pippa March 12, 2012 at 12:14 pm #

    It looks gorgeous, and I think it looks lovely with the red belt because of the red trim.

  17. Claire (aka Seemane) March 12, 2012 at 12:14 pm #

    Love the dress – print, and the trims/pleats v. cute 🙂

  18. Emma March 12, 2012 at 12:18 pm #

    I’ve had the same problem with the fit across the back as well. Your Pastille turned out great. I’ve been hesitant with the pattern myself, I am afraid the pattern might be a bit too little girl-ish. But you have a solid point that It could make an elegant little black dress!

  19. leahfranqui March 12, 2012 at 12:18 pm #

    This is delightful, I say it’s a win. I’m almost done my final version, and I must say, every Pastille I’ve seen has surpassed the cover photograph of the book. Colette patterns is just so tricky, making us make better versions of the garments then they themselves do…

  20. Michelle March 12, 2012 at 12:21 pm #

    I LOVE it. It is incredibly flattering, and you’ve inspired me to try my hand at the Pastille. Thanks for the tips — I’ll have to adjust the bust for sure.

  21. Sassy T March 12, 2012 at 12:33 pm #

    This is one of my favourite things you have made. The fabric is just up my street.

  22. Lisa March 12, 2012 at 12:43 pm #

    That’s one really cute dress. I could see you making loads of these.

  23. Jane March 12, 2012 at 1:03 pm #

    Ah! Making this dress your bitch was a master stroke! Love the red details and I agree, a yellow belt would look awesome. The fit is absolutely perfect, you totally rock it. But hold on a minute, where did those BEAUTIFUL shoes come from??? Surely they should be in my wardrobe??!! x
    PS. I fear ‘natural dishwater blonde’ is an all too accurate description of my hair too!

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 1:14 pm #

      You noticed! The shoes are actually from Goodwill – can you believe it?! $7!!

      I actually like your hair color a lot… if that’s what dude meant by dishwater blonde, I’ll take it! 🙂

  24. Cynthia March 12, 2012 at 1:19 pm #

    This came out lovely, a perfect easy summer dress. I love the Colette Handbook for the information but was not very attracted to most of the patterns (except for Licorice). I think I’m going to give Pastille another look over

  25. Rachel March 12, 2012 at 1:24 pm #

    That is such a cute dress. One would never guess the problems you had along the way to look at it.

    I can’t believe the hairdresser said dishwater blonde, isn’t that a tad rude (or am I just overly sensitive!?)

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 1:30 pm #

      Haha no, I think that’s a common name for ‘dirty blond’ round these parts 🙂

  26. Emily March 12, 2012 at 1:24 pm #

    Yours turned out so cute! I’m tempted to whip out my pattern and try again…

  27. Miss Crayola Creepy March 12, 2012 at 1:27 pm #

    The fit is perfect. I’m jealous! 🙂

  28. em March 12, 2012 at 1:51 pm #

    definitely yay! Yours is one of the cutest I’ve seen so far. I originally got some solid pink linen/cotton to make mine, but I’ve been leaning towards making a print instead, and this has convinced me! Thanks for sharing.

  29. Rochelle New March 12, 2012 at 1:52 pm #

    Wayyyyyy cute!! It turned out so awesome! I wish I had the patience and time to fuss with the fit on my Pastille but I didn’t. I think your dress is the closest fit I’ve seen to how it looks on the model, so kudos to you!

  30. Katy March 12, 2012 at 1:57 pm #

    That’s a lovely fitting Pastille, one of the best I’ve seen. I’ve seen that back problem with others as well – what is it – everyone supposed to have a big back or something! I have a straight back so think I need to make this adjustment.

  31. Susie Homemaker, MD March 12, 2012 at 1:58 pm #

    Your dress is perfect! It fits you to a tee and I think the fabric is very cute. Great job!!

    Where I live (AL) is a sewing wasteland but I actually got to visit a store (Whipstitch in ATL) this weekend that carries Colette patterns so I added 4 to my collection. Now I have to decide which one to make first…

  32. Yvette March 12, 2012 at 2:03 pm #

    OMG your version looks the nuts! Mine came out ok but as I am a complete newbie I didn’t know quite how to adjust the back properly. Hahaha can you make mine for me 😉 & I love the pattern, the fact that you cant see the detail just adds to the surprise when people see the detailing up close. x

  33. symondezyn March 12, 2012 at 2:16 pm #

    Wow, I am so impressed with your fitting job!! Especially knowing how tough of a time I had!! I wonder if the bust size issue was a fluke on the smaller pattern sizes, cause I definitely had to do an FBA on mine – I did a muslin without and it gave me pancake boob LOL

    I didn’t find my muslin had the poofy back thing but my final version does somewhat; the center upper back sticks out a bit; is this what happened on yours? Forgive my ignorance, but isn’t a swayback adjustment done on the bottom? How would that fix the top? I’m totally not envisioning this one LOL (cause of my lack of experience) I’d love to know though, cause I LOVE the shape of the dress, and the pleats, and I really want to make more versions 🙂

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 2:21 pm #

      Yeah, that was the same problem with mine – except the center/upper back stuck out a LOT. Like waaay too much for me to ignore lol. I did my adjustment at the lengthen/shorten line, so it is close to the lower back. I just cut through the line, leaving a hinge at the side seam, and then I overlapped the whole thing at an angle so it did not affect the length of the side seam, just the centerback. It’s basically a pivot adjustment. I hope that makes sense!

      I actually don’t really understand the swayback adjustment too much since I don’t *have* a swayback… so I’ve never needed to get a good handle on it, you know? This was a new experience for me!

      • symondezyn March 12, 2012 at 3:06 pm #

        No, I don’t have one either, so that’s why I asked, cause I honestly don’t know!! HAHA! So, if I understand correctly, you overlapped above the lengthen/shorten line? Do you still have your pattern piece? I’d love to see a pic of the adjusted piece if you wouldn’t mind… I know it’d be an “oooohhhh I get it” moment and I really do want to make this dress again! 🙂

        I also wondered if maybe we went down a size in the bodice and just did a bigger FBA if that’d help, but I’m not experienced enough to know – do you think that would do the trick?

        • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 3:12 pm #

          No worries, it’s hard to explain without pictures. I’ll snap a photo when I get home, although I don’t know if that’ll help too much, since my piece is a big tapey mess (after having to remove the FBA I added) hahaha.

          I don’t think going down a size in the bodice would help (well, me, anyway) since everything else – the shoulders, the waist, etc – fit perfectly. I think it would be easier to make that one alteration than go down a size and make several alterations, you know? Granted, I make most of my stuff at least a size smaller than my measurements recommend since I don’t like much ease in my clothing at all, so if I went down another size there is no way that thing would zip up lol

          • symondezyn March 12, 2012 at 3:28 pm #

            Yes, good point! I’m the same; I don’t like too much ease either, so I ‘spose it’d be the same for me LOL.

            If it isn’t too much trouble, I’d really love to see a pic – you have my email address, just shoot it to me whenever you get a sec, no rush! thank you SOOOOO much!! 😀

  34. Jen March 12, 2012 at 2:34 pm #

    I think that one of the issues with this dress – particularly the one in the book – is that there is probably more ease in it than is needed – which would be why the finished bust measurement is slightly larger than you’d think. Also, I’m willing to bet the models aren’t always the perfect size for the samples that Sarai and Caitlin have made and that the Pastille dress in the book is as close to the right size on that model as they had. Or maybe I’m wrong. The back fit is usually a result of having a narrower back than the pattern measurements. I don’t have the book in front of me so I don’t know if there’s a back measurement included but you have a small frame, so maybe your back is narrow in comparison to your bust measurement? If your side seams are straight, then that’s probably the answer. Your fitting tweaks are great.

    If you understitched your facings and they still pop out, try cutting them a hair smaller, so they won’t roll out.

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 2:38 pm #

      Well, the finished measurements generally include whatever ease is part of the pattern – I think the suggested body measurements for a size 2 were 33″ or maybe closer to 34″, I don’t recall. The dress is intended to have about 1″ of ease. Generally, the finished measurements are spot-on with these patterns, which is why it threw me off. And I do have a narrow back in comparison to my front half, but again, I pretty much always wear a size 2 (with a FBA) across the board in Colette patterns so it seemed weird that this *one* dress was sized differently. Meh.

  35. quirky-vintage March 12, 2012 at 2:48 pm #

    Oh wow!! This is GORGEOUS!! I really love the red trim, it really gives it a vintage look. Really beautiful. PS, My hair was always called ‘mousey brown’ when I was a kid and it always upset me and made me think of rats-lol. xx

  36. Crystal March 12, 2012 at 3:44 pm #

    It turned out great. This was my least favorite pattern in the book, but with a print I really like it. I’m nervous at all those alterations, though!

  37. Victoria Callas March 12, 2012 at 3:55 pm #

    It looks just superb!

  38. Juli March 12, 2012 at 5:18 pm #

    Cute, cute, cute! Wow, I love that fabric, it’s so fun! And I think that red belt is perfect! 🙂

  39. Neeno March 12, 2012 at 5:44 pm #

    So beautiful!!! I love the red detailing. Great photos, it looks like a really nice day out! The zipper looks perfect!!!!!!!

  40. Ruth March 12, 2012 at 6:23 pm #

    I love your pastille! Your details are so cute.

    Isn’t it such a different pattern, though, as far as fit? I’m 2 sizes up from the cup size Colette patterns are supposedly drafted for, but I didn’t need an FBA either.

    Plus, it seems like a lot of other people had to make the same adjustment to the back. Now excuse me while I rant a bit… everyone is calling this a swayback adjustment, but that is a terrible term for it, as far as I can see. A sway back basically means that your head and feet are in line but your pelvis is forward. It doesn’t have anything to do with your measurements, rather your posture. I would call this a waist raising adjustment to the pattern back.

    For a fuller bust, the length of the front needs to be more, hence the way RTW knits are always short in the front on busty people, but the center back is ok. I am still wrapping my brain around this, but maybe the lack of need for FBA and the long back are related somehow on this pattern? Maybe it was intended to be sized for smaller bust but we are somehow fitting in there and making the back seem too long?

    • LLADYBIRD March 12, 2012 at 10:16 pm #

      Yeah, the fit was real weird… considering the chapter for this dress was all about fit, I keep wondering if Sarai purposefully made it like this so we’d get lots of practice! Hanan, ok, I know that’s not true 🙂

      You are totally right though,its not a swayback adjustment. I just keep calling it that because the pattern alteration is a similar pivot alteration, albeit in a slightly different place. I’m probably fueling the fire for the false swaybacks out there 😦

      I like your theory, though, I think that makes a bit of sense! I find it hard to believe that this pattern would be poorly drafted, since everything else from Colette is so precise and well thought out.

  41. weefrills March 12, 2012 at 7:27 pm #

    I love this dress. Red’s my favorite, so I’m digging the red belt!

  42. Calico Stretch March 12, 2012 at 8:27 pm #

    Great dress and the shoes are fantastic too. Love the fit.

    I laughed about the too short zip because I’ve been learning about how long is long enough in 2.5″ increments. Couldn’t get into my bodice thingy from the top or the bottom until I had stuck a 23″ zip in. Newbie newbie that I am.

    PS I’ve tagged you for a Liebster Award. Dunno if you’re into tags but if not feel free to happily ignore :o)

  43. Casey March 12, 2012 at 9:13 pm #

    I really, really love how this turned out–my favorite Pastille I’ve seen! I know you’re a bit bummed about the pleats getting lost in the patterned fabric, but the overall look is really pretty! 🙂 Darn it lady–now you’re making me want to jump ship on the projects I have going right now (which kinda-sorta need to get done. DEADLINES and important stuff like that. lol.) and make my own version of this dress!

  44. Joanne March 13, 2012 at 5:00 am #

    A resounding YAY from me on this Lauren – it’s gorgeous. I love the pleats at the bottom and I heart the little red trims against the busy print. It’s such a lovely shape on you too. I’ve been umming and awwing about the pastille for ages but yours is the nicest I’ve seen and so you’ve convinced me to give it a whirl. Thanks for the tips on sizing too – I’ll watch out for that. TBH I always find I have a lot of fitting to do with Colette patterns – particularly around the upper shoulders and bust. What’s that all about? Still love ’em though…

  45. tinygoldenpins March 13, 2012 at 7:44 am #

    Oh, yes, YAY. A big one. You look so cute in those photos and I love your hair like that. Wonderful!

    • LLADYBIRD March 13, 2012 at 8:32 am #

      Oh, thank you! I’m trying to grow out my bangs and it’s totally creeping me out to see my forehead – I’ve had bangs as long as I’ve had hair. So this is reassuring 🙂

  46. scruffybadger March 13, 2012 at 2:25 pm #

    It’s a winner! I love the style on you and agree the peach version didn’t do it for me either. So lovely to see in a darker bright print.

  47. gingermakes March 14, 2012 at 9:41 am #

    This looks so cute on you! The fit is perfect and the style really suits you! The neckline really draws attention to your face somehow… really nice! You’re a sewing rock star! EVERYTHING you touch turns to gold, girl!

  48. gingermakes March 14, 2012 at 9:42 am #

    Oh, and I’m the oddball here who liked the peach dress from the book. 🙂 I like that color so much that I basically bought the book because I liked the cover… ha!

  49. Lilly March 15, 2012 at 12:25 am #

    You always have the cutest fabric! Where do you get it all? Etsy? Yard sale? Somewhere awesome in Nashville? I love your take on all the Colette Patterns you have done. I am a brand newbie and just finished my Meringue skirt:, which was my first skirt ever. The Pastille dress is next. Hopefully I can successfully navigate grading the pattern, making a muslin and altering the pattern (since it sounds like it will need it). Your tips are super helpful and I will be referring back to this post, I’m sure!

    • LLADYBIRD March 15, 2012 at 10:37 am #

      Hehe well lately, most of it has come from the cheapie route – the Tennessee Flea Market, thrift stores, yard sales (that particular piece is from a yard sale). I also buy a good chunk of my fabrics from our local fabric store, Textile Fabrics (although not lately due to my shopping ban). I don’t buy fabric online very often – I like to touch it first!

      I love that piping on your skirt!

  50. raquel from florida March 16, 2012 at 9:02 am #

    beautiful! What kind of fabric did you use? I love your shoes!

    • raquel from florida March 16, 2012 at 9:04 am #

      I continued reading your blog….I know what fabric you used, thanks!

  51. Lara March 18, 2012 at 2:03 pm #

    I love this dress, it’s so cute on you! I seem to have the same problem as you with Colette patterns and a billowing hunch back. Do you find that it happens with any Colette pattern you use, or just this dress?

  52. Lou March 21, 2012 at 1:12 am #

    Definately a yay! I think this is the nicest rendition of this dress I’ve seen.

  53. Heather April 4, 2012 at 6:56 pm #

    This was so helpful…
    I’ve just made the Pastille Dress, my first Colette pattern, and it bollows below bra level at the back and the front waist is far too high, makng the hemline raise aswell. Does anyone know if I can do a pivot adjustment from the wait to centre front to lower the waistline, from the side seam to the centre front? Also, how do I get rid of the bollowing bit at the back? I was rather disappointed, but am desperate to get it right so want to do version 3!! On this version I had already made a pivot adjustment for a large waist and was so pealseed with myself. And, whilst asking, can you make it without facings and use a linign instead?

    • LLADYBIRD April 5, 2012 at 8:46 am #

      I don’t know what to do about the front waist issue, but I had that same problem with too much fabric at the upper back. The problem is that there is more fabric at the bodice back than the bodice front. I slashed my pattern at the lengthen/shorten line (on the bodice) and did a pivot overlap – the amount you overlap will depend on how much fabric you need to remove, I think mine was around 3/4″. I believe there are better instructions and pictures in the swayback adjustment section of the Colette handbook. There is a possibility that once you fix the back, the front will be fixed as well.

      I think you can do a full lining of the bodice instead of the facings, but you will need to aggressively clip lots and lots of notches on those curves and make sure to understitch everything. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, though!

      Hope this helps 🙂

      • Heather April 7, 2012 at 1:50 pm #

        Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this. I have made up another pattern since and found that is also high at the front so it is me not the pattern!! i’ll just have to lengthen the pattern.

        Keep sewing.

  54. Katie September 17, 2012 at 6:51 am #

    I was just trying to make a muslin of this dress and am so glad I found your blog I’m going to try your back adjustments because as a total novice seamstress I couldn’t for the life of me figure that one out! Also I found the size really weird I’m usually a size 12 but this was massive on me.


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