pattern testing: the minoru jacket

15 Nov

time to talk about the minoru! finally! for those of you who don’t follow (the… three of you? ever?), tasia of sewaholic patterns recently dropped her 4th pattern, a darling sporty jacket called the minoru. i was chosen to be a pattern tester (out of 600!! geez louise!), which was awesome, except for the part about dropping all my sewing fun-times for 2 weeks :). this was also during the dark month that my truck had died & i hadn’t replaced it yet… so i actually rode the bus to the fabric store. it took an hour (for maaaaybe a 14 mile drive?). that is some dedication, y’all!

anyway, a few of the pattern testers have already posted theirs, so i will follow suit and post mine.

i’d actually been toying with the idea of making a cycling jacket – something brightly colored, to increase visibility now that the sun is setting earlier & earlier. when i saw that the pattern we were testing was going to be a sporty jacket, it was like god himself had sent the pattern down to me from the heavens. i initially wanted to make my jacket in a bright yellow corduroy, but the fabric store was lacking (and i didn’t have the means to shop around), so i stuck with white. in retrospect, this was not the best idea i have ever had – it gets dirty faster (duh!), my patterned lining shows through, and it is hard as shit to photograph. btw, i think i took over 150 pictures of this jacket. it was that hard to photograph.

anyway, the pattern itself was a total breeze to work through! tasia has it labeled as intermediate, but i think an advanced beginner could easily tackle this. the instructions are great & the pieces lined up nicely! i did have to make a few changes to get the pattern to work for me – the big one was a full bust adjustment. since these patterns are for the pear-inclined, there is not a lot of room up there! i had a bit of trouble since this jacket doesn’t actually have any darts in the front, so i had to add my own dart & then slash and spread from there. i also shortened the jacket, as the original length overwhelmed my short frame.
one thing i wish i had done was interfaced the collar – it doesn’t call for it in the instructions, but it is also assumed that you are using a heavier fabric. my corduroy was very fine & lightweight (hence the see-thru), and my collar just flops. i considered interfacing it while i was making the thing up, but i wanted to stay as true to the pattern/directions as possible so i could offer better feedback. so there’s my feedback – use a sturdy fabric, or use interfacing!

anyway, i love my jacket and i love all the fun details that make it so special – the topstitching (btw – buy 2 spools of thread. you will need them!), the fine gathering, THAT ELASTIC WAISTBAND THAT IS BEAUTIFUL AND GENIUS (sorry, i got excited for a second there), the inside pockets, the collar. i will definitely make this again – in my preferred yellow, with an interfaced collar 🙂 and a hood. i think i missed out by not doing the hood.

anyway, pictures!

minoru jacket

minoru jacket - zipping

minoru jacket - collar

minoru jacket - back
lovelovelove the back

minoru jacket - unzipping

minoru jacket - unzipping

minoru jacket - ah-sneeze
i am including this picture bc it cracks me up. i was trying to show the lining & i sneezed!

minoru jacket - pocketssss!

minoru jacket - open

and some detail shots…
minoru jacket - flat

minoru jacket lining

minoru jacket - elastic

minoru jacket - collar open

minoru jacket - zipped up

minoru jacket - open

ALSO one last thing…

minoru jacket & bikey
minoru & bike.
you jealous? 🙂

33 Responses to “pattern testing: the minoru jacket”

  1. didyoumakethat November 15, 2011 at 11:53 am #

    That is one cool jacket. I can’t wait to make mine!

  2. Mary November 15, 2011 at 12:02 pm #

    You are brave to do white but it looks great on you!
    I pre-ordered and have already bought my fabric. I am waffling about the size. I am a true pear, the sizing is perfect for me. As I read the finished dimensions, it sounds like a lot of ease. But, I’ve looked at all of the testers that I can find that have posted so far and it looks like the perfect amount of ease. My issue is: I want to do a button-out lining to push it into three seasons. Would you go up a size if you were to do that?

    • lladybird November 15, 2011 at 12:18 pm #

      ah, that is a good question. i sewed mine up in a size 4, although next time around i may go down to a 2. i wanted this one to be roomy enough to allow for layers underneath. i would keep it true to your suggested size, unless you plan on wearing tons & tons of layers with it.

      • Mary November 15, 2011 at 12:37 pm #

        Thank you for the advice!

  3. gingermakes November 15, 2011 at 12:13 pm #

    The lining is too die for! I love it!!

  4. Andrea November 15, 2011 at 12:24 pm #

    NICE. I’ve pre-ordered the pattern but still undecided about fabric. I really want a plaid jacket but Tasia said the pattern wasn’t suitable for plaids… do you have a sense of whether or not I could get away with it? I like your idea of corduroy in a fun solid color, too.

    • lladybird November 15, 2011 at 12:26 pm #

      i really don’t think you can get away with a plaid – not for the outside, anyway. all those gathers! the plaid would never match (unless that doesn’t bother you lol. it bothers me, but i’m picky ;). you could always do a nice solid color & hide a plaid on the inside like molly did! maybe even make the collar & cuffs plaid. oooh.

  5. bunny November 15, 2011 at 1:17 pm #

    would you think about doing a tutorial on how you did the fba? i want to try this pattern and am very busty myself, but i’m a beginner and have never tried to make either a fba or a jacket! yours looks great!

    • lladybird November 15, 2011 at 2:58 pm #

      i actually thought about this while i was adjusting my pattern – there doesn’t seem to be a lot of info on how to do this online (a fba without an existing dart, i mean). so yes, i will totally post a tutorial, closer to the time of the jacket sew-along that tasia is hosting 🙂 it’s a *really* easy adjustment!

  6. aliesje November 15, 2011 at 1:26 pm #

    my favourite minoru yet! (but yeah, tbh the prospective fba is keeping me away from the pattern).

    • lladybird November 15, 2011 at 3:00 pm #

      i’ve had a couple of people ask me if i’d be willing to post a tutorial on the dart-less fba, so i’m planning on it 🙂 watch out for that closer to the time of the sew-along. the fba is suuuper easy, don’t let it scare you!

  7. Debi November 15, 2011 at 1:51 pm #

    FABULOUS jacket! I love that you made it in white–it’s very edgy and sporty at the same time. I just adore the gathers on the back and the big collar!!!

  8. Brumby November 15, 2011 at 3:05 pm #

    Is it a cotton corduroy? Perhaps you could dye it if you thought it might equate to more wear? It is a great casual jacket though! I also adore your bike, I have an old Raleigh that is going to get a spruce up come summer, I was thinking a shade of blue just a bit darker than yours!

  9. Vicki Kate November 15, 2011 at 3:15 pm #

    Yep, I’m jealous!! It’s a gorgeous jacket and I love the colour (although it’d be grey in a week in my house, what with a toddler and all…). The lining is seven shades of amazing! I’m interested in how you do your dart-less FBA, I wonder if we use the same technique?
    Cheeky question, does the lining / facing seam lend its self to being piped do you think? And thanks for the tip about two spools of thread!

    • lladybird November 15, 2011 at 4:14 pm #

      probably! i used the bit outlined in “fit for real people,” which adds a dart (you can clearly see them in the flat-on-the-cutting-board photo).

      are you talking about the side of the facing seam that connects with the lining? yes, i think that could be piped! but you might be asking the wrong person… i tend to pipe everything 😉

  10. Sophia November 15, 2011 at 4:37 pm #

    The white looks good and I love that lining! I’m really looking forward to making this. I’m thinking red!

  11. Sarah W. November 15, 2011 at 6:45 pm #

    Pretty! Great collar.

  12. Anonymous November 15, 2011 at 8:33 pm #

    I LOVE it! It fits you really well- I love the color – love the lining. Great job!!!!

  13. Molly November 15, 2011 at 10:00 pm #

    It’s really cute! I like it in white (and the plans for yellow) and I LOVE the matchy-matchy with the bike!

  14. Joanne November 16, 2011 at 3:12 am #

    Exceedingly jealous young lady. Thanks for the pre-emptive tips on thread and interfacing. Loving your jazzy lining with the white – v. v. cute. Really looking forward to the sewalong now x

  15. Sara @ Sew Sweetness November 16, 2011 at 12:55 pm #

    Your jacket looks really great on you! I get all your posts via e-mail so that I don’t miss any (some weeks I don’t get through the blogger dashboard much), I really love everything you’ve made!

  16. Susan Davis November 17, 2011 at 1:23 am #

    I’m glad a bustier gal has made this up and showed the results. I have already pre-ordered mine, so I’m glad an FBA without a dart is possible. While the white may be hard to photograph, it looks great on you, especially seeing the fun lining you chose.

    • lladybird November 17, 2011 at 12:59 pm #

      thank you! i am going to try to post a tutorial on adding a dart to make a FBA for this jacket, so check back for that during the sew-along in january 🙂

  17. tinygoldenpins November 17, 2011 at 8:45 am #

    You know what? Tasia chose you wisely. Because I really had no interest in making this jacket until I saw this one. I really love it!

  18. Anonymous December 2, 2011 at 4:44 pm #

    I love your Jacket. Great job! I think the white is nice, even though it might show the dirt a little. I have my pattern already, but am holding out for the sew along in January. Should give me time to finish some other sewing first!

  19. Debbie December 2, 2011 at 4:49 pm #

    Sorry, I didn’t mean for the above post to be anonymous!!

    I love your Jacket. Great job! I think the white is nice, even though it might show the dirt a little. I have my pattern already, but am holding out for the sew along in January. Should give me time to finish some other sewing first!

  20. dixie December 2, 2011 at 5:54 pm #

    i love this version! thanks for the tip on the interfacing in the collar. i think another tester also thought it needed interfacing. i’ll definitely remember that when i try the pattern.

  21. Miss Celie December 3, 2011 at 8:54 am #

    Yes. Yes, I am jealous. Looove your bike too.

  22. Lyric Joy January 9, 2015 at 6:04 pm #

    Nice job. And how cool being asked to test this pattern (like you said, out of 600 WOW, what a comp to your skills). I am psyching myself up for the making of my first Minoru. Sew excited here.

    This is the second time I’ve read of a FBA. I was hoping I would not have to “go there”. But, as a “D” woman from reading your article I had better. Now to find out how to do one on the Minoru. Thus far I have only tackled a FBA for a princess seam.




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