completed: vogue 9668 – the cranberry wool dress

i’m done with the cranberry wool dress! i would like to declare this dress responsible for both killing and reviving my sewing mojo. as i stated before, i am really really pleased with how this dress turned out. so pleased, in fact, that i already bought fabric to make a spring/summer verison 🙂

review, pictures & the fabric in question after the jump!

Pattern Description: lined dress, below mid-knee variations or lower calf, has neckline variations, fitted, self-lined bodice, midriff, tapered or flared skirt & back zipper.

Pattern Sizing: 6-22. i cut my bodice in a 6, tapering to an 8 for the waist & hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? kind of. the drawing actually looks really frumpy and boring. my dress looks beautiful and perfect. it looks like the other completed 9668’s i’ve seen 🙂

Were the instructions easy to follow? i only glanced at them for the most part, but they looked fairly straightforward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? ooh i just love the shape of it! the fitted top + midriff + bias cut skirt is super flattering! the only thing i don’t care for about it is the limited mobility i get from the sleeves my next incarnation will be with stretch cotton, so hopefully that will solve that issue!

Fabric Used: mediumweight 100% cranberry wool. the lining is black bemberg rayon.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: so many!
– full bust adjustment
– i had to let out the side seams like whoa around the waistline… not sure if that was a pattern issue or user error. but instead of 5/8″ SA i now have something crazy like 1/4″ haha
– i stabilized the neckline with silk organza
– did not interface the midriff, although in restrospect that would have been a good idea. it kind of bunches up when i sit down
– the pattern calls for self-lining the bust/midriff/sleeves with the shell fabric… since i was working with wool (which is itchy, not to mention a bit expensive), i just lined the entire thing with the rayon
– swapped out the lapped zipper for an invisible zipper
– added a waist stay to stabilize that heavy bias skirt
– hemmed the wool skirt with 2″ black horsehair braid

Would you sew it again? yes! i already bought the fabric for my next one 🙂

Conclusion: i am really pleased with how this dress turned out! the only change i plan on making to my next one is adding 1″ seam allowance to the side seams for easier adjusting. i definitely recommend it, if you can find a copy (it’s out of print).

pictures:

stabilizing the neckline with silk organza

front

front v2.0

side

back
i love how the horsehair braid shapes the hemline!

bodice detail

horsehair braid – just invisible catchstitched to the shell fabric
check out my sweet pinking on those seams 🙂

waist stay & invisible zipper

and while we’re on the subject…

the fabric & zipper i bought for my next one 🙂 i plan on lining the bodice/midriff with white cotton and omitting the skirt lining. i may or may not add pockets (still debating). and i found white horsehair braid for the hemline!

Tags: completed, dress, vogue