February 16, 2018 11:03 am
It just occurred to me yesterday that I never shared my Ginger Jeans that I made for my upcoming workshops! Fortunately, we had a weirdly sunny + 70° (look at how cool I am, I figured out the keyboard shortcut for making a degree sign lolz) day yesterday, so I jumped outside to take some photos! These aren’t the best – it was windy as hell, and for some reason I decided to take photos where I’d have to straddle over a fucking hole in the ground – but you know what, it works, and I’m moving on. I say this often, and it often bears repeating – no one comes to this blog for the stunning photography amirite.
Anyway.
These are my new jeans! I’ve made soooo many pairs of these Ginger Jeans that they don’t necessarily warrant their own post at this point (I mean, there are only so many times you can keep repeating the same pattern with no changes and expect people to find the information riveting haha), however, I did want to talk about this particular pair as I finally had a chance to make them in a new-to-me denim!
This denim is a super stretch denim from Robert Kaufman (FYI that’s an affiliate link). As I mentioned in my samples post, I chose this denim specifically because it was affordable, easy to source, and is great quality that is comparable to Cone Mills. I made all my workshop samples out of this denim – Robert Kaufman was generous enough to send me a couple bolts of the fabric; enough for 11 samples plus some extra so I could make a pair for myself! It’s an 8.6oz stretch denim, which is a hair lighter than most of the Cone Mills that people buy (I personally prefer the lighter weight, I find it more comfortable!). It’s also suuuuuper stretchy, which I love! Absolutely perfect for this jeans pattern.
Since this denim is indigo dyed, it is imperative that you prewash your fabric multiple times before cutting into it. It will shrink quite a bit, plus it bleeds a LOT! I only washed my samples once in cold water, and we all ended up with blue hands during class (true story; I went on a date immediately after the first night of my Nashville class and he totally called me out on that shit about halfway through haha). For these jeans, I washed + dried the denim three times before I cut it – twice with very hot water, and once with cold. This cut down significantly on the amount of bleed that I got, although they still bleed a tiny bit (not enough to damage, say, the upholstery in my car – but I do still notice a blue tint on my fingernails). Every single indigo-dyed denim I’ve used (especiallyyyy Cone Mills, oh god) does this, btw, but just be aware of it. Don’t carry a white purse, save your white undies for a different pair of pants, and for the love of god do not wash these in a load with anything but black fabric.
That being said, cutting down on the bleed does not actually fade the color. These are still super dark, even with all that hot washing.
Anyway, I made these a little over a month ago, and wore them on that first day of class so my students could see the ~jeans in action~. I’m happy to report that this fabric holds its shape really well – I’ve only washed these once since I made them (and even then it was mostly to try to bleed out more indigo, ha), and in these photos you are seeing them after about 4 days of wearing. No baggy knees or baggy butt! I still have a little bit of tightness at the calf, however, I have noticed with my more frequently-worn Gingers (i.e., the older ones) that over time the fabric will stretch and settle. I’m going to wear these a bit more and see if that happens with this fabric, before I slice up the calf and add more room on future pairs.
I also made the top I’m wearing, by the way! It’s a Grainline Studio Hemlock Tee (which is free if you join their newsletter). I used a beautiful striped rayon knit from Finch, which I bought when I was there last year for a workshop.
For these particular jeans, I used the same notions that we offer students in my workshops (copper topstiching thread, matching rivets and buttons). Combined with the fabric and pattern, you can literally see what your finished jeans will look like.
BTW, I still hate setting rivets. I’m getting better at it, but I still hate it. I considered getting a special die for my snap setter, but then I realized I couldn’t drag it along to workshops (that thing is cast iron and it weighs a LOT), so what’s the point? I generally prefer the look of bartacks over rivets, anyway.
I won’t go into detail about fitting these; but you can read my Ginger Jeans tag to see previous posts about what fitting changes I have made to these jeans over time. Spoiler: It took many, many pairs with lots of tiny changes (and I’m still making changes!). Fitting is a journey, and a lot of things just aren’t clear until you’ve worn your garment around for a few days.
Flat-felled seams on the inside, quilting cotton pockets (1-2 fat quarters is all you need!), and of course a shitty little thread nest in there #honestsewing
In other news – I just had some more classes listed! You can see all my upcoming classes here on my class page, but for those who are just browsing – here are the new ones added:
I have a few more classes in the works that haven’t been confirmed/listed yet (West Coast, I’m looking at you!), but I will share those as soon as I can! Other than that, pretty booked up for 2018! If you are a local shop who would like to discuss dates for 2019, please get in touch with me via email. If you are a person who wants me to come teach in your city, I encourage you to reach out to your local shop and tell them you’d like to see them host my jeans workshop 🙂
Ok, that’s all for this post! Happy Friday, y’all!
Posted by LLADYBIRD
Categories: completed projects - new
Tags: a gathering of stitches, closet case patterns, completed, darrell thomas textiles, denim, ginger jeans, Grainline Studio, Hemlock Tee, jeans, jeans workshop, pants, pintuck and purl, robert kaufman, stitch sew shop, workroom social, workshops
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You did not adjust sizing in anyway to accommodate for the extreme stretch in this fabric?
By Brianne on February 16, 2018 at 11:59 am
No, this denim has the same amount of stretch as is required for the pattern, so there’s no need to adjust the size.
By LLADYBIRD on February 16, 2018 at 1:28 pm
Thanks!
By Brianne on February 16, 2018 at 7:11 pm
Shitty little thread nest…love it! 🙂 By the “West Coast”, I sure do hope you mean Vancouver, B.C.!! #fingerscrossed
By Lana Topham on February 16, 2018 at 12:30 pm
Ha! It’s not a handmade project if there isn’t a rogue thread nest in there somewhere 😉
By LLADYBIRD on February 16, 2018 at 1:27 pm
Love these. Jeans are beyond useful!
How are you currently setting your rivets? My gold star press HATES rivets, enough though I have the rivet pieces 😦
By Chris Griffin on February 16, 2018 at 1:40 pm
I just use a hammer! I really don’t care for rivets enough to justify buying any special tools for setting them haha
By LLADYBIRD on February 16, 2018 at 1:42 pm
The affiliate link isn’t working for me 😦
By Inclement on February 16, 2018 at 1:49 pm
Oh weird! I just tried it and it worked fine… maybe try a different browser? I’m on Chrome.
By LLADYBIRD on February 16, 2018 at 2:02 pm
Closet Case has all their jeans patterns 30% off this month (Feb 18) for Denim Month. I snagged a Ginger pattern right away! Mid-rise for this old lady. ha ha Please, please schedule a workshop over a weekend in Nov in Nashville and I’ll be there for my birthday. A party and sewing – I can think of no better birthday! 🙂 I’ve got oodles of miles on SW Airlines just begging for a trip.
By Becky Thompson on February 16, 2018 at 2:10 pm
Oh, I forgot everything was discounted there this month! Perfect timing 🙂 I’m sorry, though – there won’t be anymore workshops in Nashville for 2018. I’m probably going to use my November this year to take a real vacation! 🙂
By LLADYBIRD on February 16, 2018 at 2:22 pm
Picture perfect and great fit!
By Faye Lewis on February 16, 2018 at 5:37 pm
Thank you!!
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:35 pm
I wish I lived remotely close enough to attend a workshop – it would be fantastic! Your hems look great – I have the worst time hemming on stretch denim, what is your secret?
By ANGELA MARMADUKE on February 16, 2018 at 10:08 pm
No secret, just press and stitch haha
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:35 pm
If I were in any of those places that you’re teaching Lauren I would be there with bells on my toes (well that might be a little extreme 🙂 ) but I would BE THERE! I’ve had this pattern, Heather Lou’s ebook AND her online course but have yet to make up the pattern. I’m committed to doing it once and for all this year though since I’ve joined the #2018 RTW Fast challenge 🙂 Love your jeans. It reminds me of the old days when you really did have to wash your new jeans 3 times before they became wearable but once you’d washed them about 20 times they were just the bees knees 🙂
By PsychicSewerKathleen on February 17, 2018 at 9:46 am
Well, maybe someday I’ll make it to your neck of the woods! I do expect bells on your toes, though 😉
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:35 pm
Another great pair! I’m excited to hear west coast is a possibility. I’m really hoping for a Portland workshop. 🤞(And since hopes and prayers might not be effective on there own, I also have emailed my request to local shops.)
By Hailey on February 17, 2018 at 1:55 pm
Me toooooo! And NOW I know why that pair of jeans keeps dying my legs faintly blue despite multiple washings! I thought it was just that they were shitty TJ Maxx jeans, but I bet they were indigo dyed…luckily they aren’t dying my laundry.
By Liz on February 18, 2018 at 11:36 pm
Haha yeah, it’s definitely the indigo dye! Even my $$$ jeans do that so it’s a pretty common thing! The downside is that sometimes it can be a year or two before they stop transferring dye… ugh, talk about a lesson in patience haha
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:37 pm
I would journey to Portland!!! Or San Francisco!!!!! Or Santa Cruz!!!!
By catherine on February 19, 2018 at 9:22 am
Emailing requests seems to be the key haha! Fingers crossed we can work something out!
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:36 pm
I don’t like wearing jeans nearly as much as I like sewing them. Looks great!
By KS Sews on February 17, 2018 at 6:40 pm
I’m lucky that I like both! But sewing them is definitely my favorite part 😀
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:37 pm
Can’t wait to make jeans with you!! Counting down the days…
By Nokes on February 18, 2018 at 6:15 am
Me too!!!! We are gonna have so much fun!!!
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:37 pm
“Patience is a virtue, posses it if you can, seldom found in women, rarely in a man.” I will be patient and wait for WEST COAST!!! I may even have a friend or two that would join me. Maybe I’ll be done dealing with my parents house by then? Regardless, I…. am being patient for class, closer to me. PS VANS!! the only shoes I wore in the the 70’s and 80’s…. Making a comeback!!! And Lauren, don’t forget, you come to San Diego, you and your bro or friend get three days at the Dome!! Or it can be just you 🙂 Only requirement is you sign the guest book. 🙂 Have a beautiful day.
By catherine on February 19, 2018 at 9:20 am
I SO want to come to San Diego! I keep telling my brother and we are so stoked for the dome haha! But first I have to figure out my travel schedule because I maaaaay have booked up it too full for a vacation now :X haha But even if I can’t dome, I am going to try to come out to the west coast somehow and perhaps I can see you anyway!!
By LLADYBIRD on February 19, 2018 at 12:39 pm
Well I’m here for the long haul, so come on out! PS, I hear Shaun White is going to try to go to the Summer Olympics with skateboarding, yes, that beautiful Ginger Athlete Funny Person, lives in my town. 🙂
By catherine on February 23, 2018 at 8:57 am
Your jeans look awesome! I love reading your reviews. I’m actually a Jeanswear pattern maker for Wrangler (VF really, but no one ever recognizes VF, so it is easier to say Wrangler or Lee). This is kind of a nit picky thing, but I thought you might like to know since you seem to make this pattern a lot, in production pattern making if we are doing a seam like this one on the back rise, we will center the pockets over the top stitching, not over the seam. It makes things look more balanced.
By Molly on February 25, 2018 at 12:56 pm
I totally visit your blog for your amazing photography skills! 😀
Fine. I’m here for the sewing!
Jeans are one of the few things I haven’t tried to sew yet. One day, perhaps.
By Veronica Reed on February 25, 2018 at 1:17 pm
Fingers crossed that by West Coast you mean SoCal 🙂
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