Happy New Year, everyone, and welcome to 2015! I’d like to start ringing in the new year by showing you something that I made last year (lolz, sorry). It was for Landon, aka unselfish sewing, which makes for a delightful turn of events.
An Albion jacket! Yay!
Fair warning – we took a lot of photos (if you don’t recognize the background, that’s cos these were taken in the Smoky Mountains! FANCY!), and I had a really hard time narrowing them down. This dude is just so damn gorgeous looking. I’m sorry, but you’ll just have to deal.
Anyway, I initially planned this coat with Landon earlier in 2014 – according to my Mood orders, it was sometime in January/February. We ordered swatches, settled on fabric and design changes, and I made a muslin. That’s when things just stopped and stayed that way. The muslin was all kinds of wrong and I didn’t feel like dealing with it. I was afraid I might have even cut the wrong size. So, I did what seemed like the most logical solution – I shoved everything in a box and didn’t think about it until a couple of weeks ago, when Landon started asking me again about when he might get his coat. Bless his heart.
Enough time had passed to heal my wounds, so I dug out the old muslin and we tried again. The only thing I remembered being wrong was that the sleeves were all kind of haywire – super twisted all down his arm, and the hem went up near his elbow when he raised his arms. I wasn’t sure if the issues were because of how the sleeves were drafted, or if I had just somehow managed to cut the muslin off-grain (totally possible), but I ripped one sleeve off and cut another – on-grain – to test. It must have been a grain issue, because that solved the problem. Other than tweaking a little bit of sizing at various points, and adding some length, the rest of the jacket seemed to fit pretty well. I made one more muslin with all the changes to verify that we were good to go.
As I mentioned, this is the Albion by Colette Patterns. We chose to make the shorter jacket version in a size XS (based on Landon’s measurements and his personal preferences for ease), and added 1/2″ to the side seams for a little more wearing ease (I probably could have cut up one size – but I’d already shredded the remaining tissue, and this was easier. Actually, he says the arm holes fit really well so it’s probably best we stayed with the small size). I also added 1/4″ to the CB fold, just to give him a little more room back there. The sleeves were mostly fine – except I added 1/4″ to the seams below the elbow, and removed 1/8″ above the elbow. I also added 3.5″ to the sleeve length (NO idea why it was so short!). I think those are all the fitting changes I made. Pretty minor stuff.
The actual construction took almost no time at all! I had it done within about a week, working off and on as I had time. Since it’s not a proper coat, it doesn’t require any sort of crazy tailoring – really just the same techniques you’d use to make, say, a lined dress. I did add a back stay – I just used leftover muslin – to keep the back from stretching out from all those hugz Landon gives me (aw). I also added interfacing to the places where it made sense to include it – the plackets, the sleeve tabs. It seemed weird that the pattern didn’t mention it, but maybe that’s because it’s written for a heavier coating.
For fabric, I used cotton twill for the outer, and plaid wool flannel for the body lining. The sleeves are lined with silk charmeuse (to aid with getting the jacket on, and also for warmth – cotton isn’t very warm, but wool and silk are!).
I also added an interior patch pocket for his phone, as well as a hanging loop at the back neck. The interior pocket is cut on the bias, but it’s lined with silk cut on the straight grain (to keep it from bagging out as it gets used). For the hanging loop, I just used the pattern piece from the Minoru Jacket. Not trying to reinvent the wheel here!
I knew I didn’t want to buy toggles (they’re expensive and they never look quite right), so I made them. I started with these horn toggles from Mood Fabrics, and used scrap leather (given to me by Elizabeth) and cotton cording to make them. I just goggled ‘how to make your own toggles’ (I know, I’m so creative) until I found a tutorial I liked – this was the one I used. I attached the cording to the leather patches at both ends, just for additional strength.
To attach the toggles, I marked their placement on the jacket and then stuck them down with double-sided tape. I traced around the entire toggle – patch and all – with chalk (this is helpful so it’s easy to brush off – I like my chaco liner
I like the 3 piece hood! I like that it stays put, and it has a nice shape (you know how some hoods just kind of suck in around your head? I hate that.). I cut the center piece on the bias to ~add interest~.
I REALLY love the lining! I was initially sad to not keep it for myself (that is one helluva a wool flannel, is all I have to say about that), but it’s really perfect for this coat – and those are totally Landon’s colors. When cutting, I just made sure the side seams were matched and that was good enough (and easy!). I’m also really glad we lined the sleeves in silk, because I can’t imagine how awful it would be to try to pull this thing on without slippery sleeves, yeesh. Plus, silk charmeuse. mmm 🙂
Anyway, I’m happy to report that Landon loves his coat! He has been wearing it nonstop (seriously put it on as soon as I finished it – to wear around the house hahaha), and been showing it off to all his friends. I’m just happy to make him happy (not to mention be off the hook for another year :P). Oh, and in case you’re wondering – that’s a me-made shirt Landon is wearing, too. Gah, I am the best girlfriend.
**Disclaimer: All fabrics were provided to be as per my involvement with the Mood Sewing Network. The Albion pattern was given to me as a gift from my sponsor, Indie Stitches.
LLADYBIRD 
Wow you really are a good girlfriend (*lowers head in shame!) that is a serious labor of love! Looks awesome and yep that lining- wow! 🙂 Happy new year 🙂
Hahaha don’t feel bad! As of right now, I’ve only made Landon maybe 4 pieces of clothing – including the 2 he’s wearing in these photos 🙂 Also, just between you and me – I mostly do it so I have an excuse to sew something I don’t particularly want to wear. Such as a toggle coat. HAHA!
Good looking man. Nice coat too. I really really like the lining also.
I *love* the lining! Wish I could find more beautiful wool flannels like that.
I’m loving that coat – definately looks warm enough for a really cold winter! and happy new year!
It’s perfect for the mild winters we have here, so yay! 🙂 And Happy New Year to you too! 😀
Looks fab, and he looks very happy with his new coat! Marcus wants me to make him a coat, but I’ve told him he needs to choose something easier first – he’s not getting a coat until I’ve made myself at least one!
Hahaha!! Obviously the answer to this is that you both need matching coats 😉
I like this a lot. The twill looks heathered and almost like chambray. When you say that it didn’t need a lot of tailoring like a coat, do you mean because it’s twill instead of wool? I’ve been so afraid to start a coat like the Minoru or Albion but if you’re saying it’s different construction wise than, say, the Ralph R coat you just made, maybe I should just go ahead.
I made myself this one last year…It is not very structured in the fit so it makes it a lot simpler. I had never made anything resembling a coat and it was honestly a pretty simple make! You can play with the fit to make it closer but because it is a duffle vs something more structured and fitted with lots of extra bits like collar stands and shoulder pads it is much more forgiving. Coletterie had a whole sewalong about it, too, with lots of extra info though I didn’t use that too much except on a couple spots. And I made mine from wool and flannel! (Lauren; not to steal question-answering from you on your own blog! Lol)
Hey, thanks e. mcclure! i appreciate that. I have three patterns: this, robson trench, and minoru that i keep thinking about but do not make. i appreciate your information. i, too, think of using wool because i have a lot of it on hand!
Ha, you are totally fine! I like it when discussions happen in the comments of my blog, makes me feel so happy hahaha 🙂
Here’s the thing – a hand-tailored coat (and by hand-tailored, I mean hand basting the fancy interfacing, doing the padstitching, adding a back stay, interfacing the hem, hand-inserting the lining, etc) is a really lovely piece of clothing to have, and I really really love seeing bloggers make them up and wear them. But I think that it can backfire in the sense that other sewists see all the work involved and assume that’s what is required for ALL coats – which is absolutely not the case! You can make a wool peacoat and not tailor it – it won’t be the most beautiful couture piece of clothing you own, but it’ll still be nicer than RTW (and honestly – we made coats out the wazoo when I worked at Muna’s, and NOT A SINGLE ONE was hand-tailored. It was basically high-end RTW – bagged linings, fusible interfacings, etc etc). If you want the tailoring structure, you can play with fusibles (there are tons of books on how to do this) or add elements of light tailoring (such as a back stay and an interfaced hem). But even if you go full-out, it’s just a lot of extra handwork. It’s not like it’s really difficult. It’s just time-consuming.
Soooo with all that being said – just a normal coat, such as the Albion of the Minoru, does not need that kind of extra work. You can make it straight up according to the pattern and still end up with a really lovely piece of clothing. You’ll still be using those coat-making skills, but it’s the same skills you’d use for making a lined garment – except maybe if you need shoulder pads (and those just get shoved in before you throw in the lining haha). I don’t want to say it’s easy, but it’s definitely within your skill set if you’ve made clothing before.
I think this comment turned into a long ramble. I’m sorry! Basically – YES, you can do it. You don’t have to add the fancy tailoring if you don’t feel up to it (but you can totally do that too. It can get expensive buying all those supplies, though!), you can start with something that’s a little softer with less pieces and no tricky notched lapels or whatever, and surprise yourself with how easy it is. Also, for the record – the Rucci coat wasn’t tailored 🙂 It’s just coating with bound seams! You’ve probably made something similar before. The button holes were a bit of extra sewing work, but those could even be left off and just done by machine 🙂
Yes! Thanks for that! I think so often we get a little intimidated by ‘advanced techniques’ and it makes us hold back on the bigger projects. I mean, the first thing I made by myself totally was a vintage pencil skirt pattern in a metallic brocade with a zipper! And honest to god I just didn’t know it was supposed to be a challenge. But honestly the Albion was a super fun coat to make. And I wear it ALL the time because it is so warm and cozy. I would like to do something a little more complicated/more dressy but coat-making can get a bit expensive for sure. And since I actually own numerous coats already but my tshirt collection is actually on the verge of appalling the basics are taking precidence! Lol
It’s funny speaking of coat making. I just got a huge bargain from a well known catalog. The coat was originally over 200.00 and I got it for 30!!!! I sent it back because the wool is so awful I wouldn’t put it near my body. It killed me because I liked it but all I could see (and smell and feel) was the horrid quality of the wool. Am I doomed to sewing everything? Is shoemaking next??? 🙂
YES, YES YOU HAVE TO. 😛
Thanks for explaining in detail the difference. I’m going to London in March and will probably make the Robson except….it isn’t lined. Did you line yours? I’ll have to go back and look at that beauty. Thanks, ladies, for the information and the encouragement!!!
Mine isn’t lined! The seams are bound (and I used a double-sided fabric, so it does *look* lined… but it isn’t). If you want to make the inside slippery so you can get it on/off, I wouldn’t recommend lining it – I think that would be too overwhelming, especially with drafting the lining pieces. Just underline all the main pieces and then assemble the coat as instructed with the bias binding (same concept I used for my Rucci coat – it’s unlined with bound seams, so I underlined with silk taffeta and it’s very easy to get on and off now, not to mention much warmer!).
Good luck! Yay coatmaking!! :DD
So wonderful!
Nice work. I like the toggles a lot!
So Landon now knows that all good things come to those who wait 😀
Damn straight he does! 😀
Oh this has turned out beautifully! It’s great that Landon loves it, too, after all your hard work!
Looks great, and such a nice model 🙂 I really like the flannel as lining, it goes just perfectly!
Yay. I’m glad you finished it. It really is easy . . . the Dude I happened to marry and my Dad love theirs. My Dad’s was easier to make, as well . . .A) he lets you fit him unlike that guy I married and B) I’d had round one practice. 😉
Did you tell Landon what I told mine? Can’t get fat or eat while wearing the coat. Hahahahahah.
Hahaha! When he put it on after it was done, I was so afraid he was going to spill something before we got pictures! I’m so glad he’s more careful than I am when it comes to messes, haha
OK, now I want a twill jacket with a hood (I’d prefer a zip to toggles, but those toggles do look good!)
i kind of do, too! We should all make hooded twill jackets, y/y?
Wow, wait to go, the jacket looks fantastic! Almost makes me want to make one for my boyfriend. Except he’d want fornicating deer on it or something, because the boy just can’t handle classy. 🙂
Seriously though, good make. I love toggles!
Oh, trust me – if there was a fabric like that available, Landon would be ALL for it too! And, if we’re being honest… I’d probably indulge him. We’re super mature, you know 😉 haha!
Steve would LOVE this jacket – the right weight and style. How about Tim? Too bad it isn’t happening around here but I have faith that you might tackle it. 🙂
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Great looking jacket, it fits great! Seems those alterations you made were right on.Thank you for taking the time to describe in detail what you did and how that is so helpful for us sewers, maybe one day I can make a jacket that nice. Btw I was admirei g his shirt , really nice too.
Don’t let my boyfriend see this! How lucky you are to have each other 🙂 Landen looks superb in has jacket xx
Handsome Jacket for a handsome dude. HA, maybe one day I will finish the jacket for my co-worker.
I can’t believe you are making something for a coworker! You’re a nicer person than I am 🙂
There is more to that, I will have to tell you one day. 😉
No mistaking these were made FOR him. Nice job(s)!
When do I get to make my “fist of an angry god” joke? LMK.
That was seriously one of the best jokes I ever made, and to this day, I’m still a little bummed that only Billy was around to hear it. Haha!
Oh Billy.
Dude this is so freaking killer! Awesome job! I want Landon’s Albion coat for myself!!
Me too, kind of!! ahahahaha!
Superb! Landon wears it well.
Lucky, Landon! The jacket is really fabulous. The lining is definitely my favorite part. This is another of those patterns I’ve had sitting waiting for its turn. Someday. It’s encouraging to read that the construction wasn’t overly complicated!
It was very straightforward – and there’s a sewalong on their sewalongs website, which is even more helpful if you get stuck (although I dont’ think you will; the instructions on this are very good and easy to understand). You should make one!
This Jacket is so detailed! 🙂 love the time that you took to put into it! 🙂
First – nice jacket!
Second – I’m looking for a charcoal cotton twill fabric for making myself a Robson coat. Are you satisfied with this fabric? Has it been keeping well?
We are really happy with how this cotton twill has held up! For this particular coat, it’s dry-clean only (since the lining is wool), so other than the original prewash, it won’t ever go through a washing machine. HOWEVER, I have other pieces that I made with other colors of the same organic cotton twill from Mood Fabrics (pants & shorts & skirts) and I wear the shit out of them/wash them frequently, and they’ve held up beautifully. The colors have not faded and the fabric softens really nicely over time. Hope that helps 🙂
Thanks!