Tag Archives: jacket

Completed: The Victoria Blazer

15 Jul

Remember when I made those Maritime Shorts and I swore I’d make a matching blazer to satisfy my inner Tina Turner?

Victoria Blazer

Welllll that happened.

AWWHHH YEAH!!

Victoria Blazer

Don’t get mad at me, but it actually happened last week. I just got around to shooting pictures of this guy, hence the delay. Sorry!

Victoria Blazer

You can also see my camera remote in these pictures, haha! I just figured out how to use it for this ~photo sesh~, so there ya go. I must say, taking pictures is a HELL of a lot easier when you’re not reliant on the self-timer. I just stood in one place and snapped away, it was pretty awesome!

Victoria Blazer

Anyway, so this here pattern is the Victoria Blazer from By Hand London. This shit is extra special because 1. The pattern was PERSONALLY HAND DELIVERED to me via the beautiful and charming Elisalex while she was in Nashville at the end of May; 2. The fabric is yet another chunk of the endless yardage gifted to me by Sonja during last year’s swap; and 3. IT’S PART OF A MATCHING BLAZER AND SHORTS SET, HOW FUCKIN AWESOME IS THAT.

Victoria Blazer

Oh, and the inside is purple.

Victoria Blazer

So, this was a pretty easy pattern. I don’t understand why people have such an aversion to sewing lined jackets – it’s essentially the same process as sewing a lined dress. Were this jacket fully tailored, with all the padstitching and a back stay and fancy welt pockets or whatever, I could understand the hesitation. But, guys, all of you are capable of sewing this. It’s a jacket – an easy jacket, at that – with another jacket inside it, inception-style.
(oh god I just realized I inadvertently gave myself a weenie in this picture… ignore that, ok.)

Victoria Blazer

I cut the veeeeery smallest size – the 2/6 – and made the cropped version. The pattern calls for a partial lining (the sleeves are left unlined), but since the cotton voile I used the line the inside is srsly the most buttery smooth fabric IN THE WORLD, I thought it was a shame to not have it against my skin and thus chose to also line the sleeves. This is super easy – I just set them into the lining, same as the shell, and then finished the bottom with a french seam as instructed.

Victoria Blazer

I know, this looks super ridiculous with the matching shorts (hahaha y’all shoulda SEEN Landon’s face when I stepped out of the sewing room in this get-up!), but I think it will look really nice with my dark jeans.

Victoria Blazer

It’s such a departure from my normal, everything-fitted style, but I like it!

Victoria Blazer

The sleeves did give me a bit of trouble at first, but it turns out that I accidentally set them in backwards. Oops! Make sure you pay attention to those notches!

Victoria Blazer

Victoria Blazer

OH MY GOD, I took way too many pictures and I’m just going to dump them all right here.

Victoria Blazer

Victoria Blazer

Victoria Blazer

Victoria Blazer

Victoria Blazer

Victoria Blazer

I love these tags from Sweet Little Chickadee! I should also point out the running stitch along the top – that goes all the way around the jacket, through both the lining and the shell (you can’t see it from the outside since the lapels cover it). The lining didn’t want to behave and stay inside the jacket where it belonged, so I used embroidery floss and handstitched around the edge of the lining. It keeps everything in place, and I think it looks pretty as well!

Victoria Blazer

Another thing I really love about this jacket is how good it looks draped over your shoulder, fashion-model-style.

Victoria Blazer

Want to make your own Victoria Blazer? The girls at By Hand London are currently running a Sewalong for this pattern, so you have no excuse now!

Would you ever make a matching blazer and shorts combo like this? Am I off my rocker here?

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Completed: The Minoru Jacket, Round 2

25 Feb

Hey, look, I made another Minoru Jacket! And it’s even better the second time around, yeah? :)

Orange Minoru

Ever since I made this my first go-round as a pattern tester, I’ve been dying to revisit this pattern and improve on my finished version. Not that the pattern written as-is needs improvement – it’s pretty wonderful! But there were definitely a few things I wanted to change from my original white version.

Orange Minoru
First and foremost – the size. I don’t know why I did it to begin with, but I definitely cut the wrong size on my first incarnation. It was just toooo big! I cut this one in a straight size 0, with no alterations, and I think the fit is superior.
(As a side note – I know a few of y’all use me as your ~size double~, so I think it’s important to point out that I am not the same size anymore. I don’t know if you can tell from the pictures, but I have lost quite a bit of weight over the last few months and my measurements decreased by a couple of inches. I am now 34-26-35 – just FYI! So with that in mind… the 0 fit me perfectly, and did not need a FBA.)

Orange Minoru
Second necessary change to this pattern – the FABRIC. Oh godddd, the fabric! While I really really loved the idea of white corduroy in theory, the reality was a sad floppy, blindingly white mess on me. While I have seen a few versions that do beautifully with a softer drape to the fabric, I think that in general, this jacket needs a bit of structure. As well as color :)

Orange Minoru
For this jacket, I used a fairly thick cotton twill that I picked up at Vogue while I was in Chicago. I knew I wanted something orange or yellow, for visibility. What I didn’t consider was how difficult it would be to pair up colors with this shade of orange, without looking like I was rooting for some shitty sports team. I’m pretty sure I had buyer’s remorse over this fabric almost the instant I bought it, hence why it sat on my sewing shelf for, oh… six months or so.

Orange Minoru
In the end, it was the lining that saved me. That, and a VERY unlikely fashion inspiration.

Orange Minoru
I will tell you who it is, but you have to promise you won’t make fun of me.

Orange Minoru
Orange Minoru
PROMISE?

andy2
That would be ol’ Andy Bernard from the US version of The Office.
I told you it was weird (and the ~punk rock~ 15 year old in me is weeping right now), but for real – he wears some of the most amazing preppy color combinations! Pink, navy, orange, red, yellow – it’s all sooo good. I don’t know, maybe I’m crazy, but I want my whole wardrobe to mimic his, at least as far as the colors go.

Orange Minoru
Which is exactly why my Minoru turned out awesome. Navy polka dots fix EVERYTHING.

Orange Minoru
And check it out: It matches this sweet silk scarf my mom bought me (now I need to find a way to wear it so it doesn’t look so much like a tie, hmm)

Orange Minoru
Anyway, enough about Andy & Co, back to meeeee

Orange Minoru
I only made a few changes to the pattern – the most noticeable being that I lined the hood. I think the lining is so bright and fun, I wanted it to show when I had the hood out!

Orange Minoru
I omitted the elastic cuffs at the bottom of the sleeves – I found that the original length of the sleeve was long enough without an added cuff. And anyway, I don’t care much for elastic cuffs. As a bonus, I can flip the hem of the sleeves up and show off that fun lining :)

Orange Minoru
Oh, yeah, and I added side seam pockets!
This was EASY: I used the pocket piece from my Tiramisu patttern (you can use whatev, but I love the size of this one – it’s perfect for what I need to carry) and inserted the pockets about 1.5″ below the waist markings, understitched, and then sewed up the sides as normal (no topstitching, though, I didn’t want to sew those pockets closed!). Note – when hemming, make sure you don’t grab those pockets before you topstitch the hem :) Depending on their size, they may hang low enough.

CIMG0051
The final change I made was to add lining to both pieces of the collar – the pattern only has you line the side where the zipper is inserted (for a clean finish all the way around, and yeah it’s pretty brilliant). However, when you open up the zipper and pull out the hood – you can see the “wrong side” of the collar fabric. I just basted another piece of lining on top of that; now you can see the lining when I pull the hood out.

Orange Minoru
Orange Minoru
I love the hood – it makes me feel all fancy.

Orange Minoru
I have NO IDEA what I’m doing in this picture, but I thought it was too hilarious not to share!

Orange Minoru

Orange Minoru

Orange Minoru

Orange Minoru
My only beef with this jacket is that the material is quite thick, which means the collar is all kinds of crazy huge when the hood is stuffed into it. See what I mean? This wouldn’t be nearly an issue with a lighter weight fabric. The collar isn’t even interfaced – the fabric is just, well, ~robust.

Orange Minoru
But, you know… I think it looks pretty good :)

One more secret and then I’ll stop – I couldn’t find 2″ white elastic for the life of me. I ended up having to this stuff:
Orange Minoru
Underwear elastic. So yeah, anytime you see me in this coat… that’s underwear elastic in the back.

One last thing, assuming you’re not experiencing a Lauren Overload right now (sorry sorry!)- I wanted to give a head’s up that I’m participating in Marie’s Watch This Lace group project, and my make just got posted up yesterday! Yeah!

Lace Cinnamon Slip

If you want to read more about it (and see more pictures!), hop on over and take a lurk!

Orange Minoru
Ok, that’ll be all.

completed: mccall’s 5936; the leopard jacket

12 Dec

this was one of those “i am going to make this but i don’t actually want to start it” projects – i dragged it out into FOREVER. i bought this fabric in… july? took my sweet time making a muslin, cutting the pieces out, making bound button holes. part of the reason why i dragged my feet so hardcore with this pattern is that i couldn’t decide how i was going to attempt construction. i wanted to fully tailor the whole thing – even bought matching silk thread & drafted a back stay – until i realized that linen doesn’t exactly lend itself well to tailoring. and my muslin was giving me the side eye so i wasn’t feel too confident about the overall fit.

those high-waisted jeans i made last week are basically what pushed me into completing this. and you know what? i ended up not doing a damn bit of tailoring on this jacket (minus the bound button holes). i basically had the whole thing pieced together & ready for slip-stitching in an afternoon. fastest jacket ever. and it feels good. it feels real good.

leopard & teal jacket
this is what i used – mccall’s 5936, which is sadly out of print (sorry!). my leopard fabric is a nice sturdy linen. and check out that lining! the woman at the fabric store talked me into it – i started to pick up the red, and she told me i wasn’t boring enough for that. that woman is totally onto me. anyway, i am in LOVE LOVE LOVE with this teal bemberg lining & when said fabric store has it’s biannual 50% everything sale next month (u jealous?), i may end up just buying the entire bolt & wrapping myself in it for the rest of my life. it is that fabulous.

in retrospect, this jacket could have benefited from some light tailoring – the lapels don’t quite lay right, i may need to steam them more. my button holes are not in the right place, sadly, and i can’t do anything about it sooo i decided that i don’t care. also, i need to redo the lining slip-stitching at the waistline, because i definitely pulled it too tight so there are some odd wrinkles on the outside fabric. but i finished it! and it is a jacket and it is leopard and it has a peplum and i am about to eat the lining, seriously.

leopard jacket

leopard jacket
recognize my jeans? :)
as a sidenote – they have stretched quite nicely (thanks to that pure denim – i forgot what jeans were like before the introduction of stretch!) and fit beautifully. i want to wear them forever!

and closer:
leopard jacket

leopard jacket

leopard jacket
this is an unflattering picture, but i love the way the peplum looks from the side

leopard jacket

leopard jacket - lining :)
lining! :D

leopard jacket

leopard jacket

leopard jacket - flat

leopard jacket - inside

leopard jacket - L tag
other than the lining, my favorite part is the tag :) i embroidered this last year for my lady grey but decided to use something else. it is satin stitch with a back stitch outline. lovely!

leopard jacket - buttons
buttons – vintage!

leopard jacket - bound button holes
bound button holes

and just for fun – here’s how i wore it today:
leopard jacket
excuse the extra christmas tree in the background lol

so fun! i think everyone needs a leopard print jacket :)

also, i think i’m gonna need some red clovers next ;)

pattern testing: the minoru jacket

15 Nov

time to talk about the minoru! finally! for those of you who don’t follow (the… three of you? ever?), tasia of sewaholic patterns recently dropped her 4th pattern, a darling sporty jacket called the minoru. i was chosen to be a pattern tester (out of 600!! geez louise!), which was awesome, except for the part about dropping all my sewing fun-times for 2 weeks :). this was also during the dark month that my truck had died & i hadn’t replaced it yet… so i actually rode the bus to the fabric store. it took an hour (for maaaaybe a 14 mile drive?). that is some dedication, y’all!

anyway, a few of the pattern testers have already posted theirs, so i will follow suit and post mine.

i’d actually been toying with the idea of making a cycling jacket – something brightly colored, to increase visibility now that the sun is setting earlier & earlier. when i saw that the pattern we were testing was going to be a sporty jacket, it was like god himself had sent the pattern down to me from the heavens. i initially wanted to make my jacket in a bright yellow corduroy, but the fabric store was lacking (and i didn’t have the means to shop around), so i stuck with white. in retrospect, this was not the best idea i have ever had – it gets dirty faster (duh!), my patterned lining shows through, and it is hard as shit to photograph. btw, i think i took over 150 pictures of this jacket. it was that hard to photograph.

anyway, the pattern itself was a total breeze to work through! tasia has it labeled as intermediate, but i think an advanced beginner could easily tackle this. the instructions are great & the pieces lined up nicely! i did have to make a few changes to get the pattern to work for me – the big one was a full bust adjustment. since these patterns are for the pear-inclined, there is not a lot of room up there! i had a bit of trouble since this jacket doesn’t actually have any darts in the front, so i had to add my own dart & then slash and spread from there. i also shortened the jacket, as the original length overwhelmed my short frame.
one thing i wish i had done was interfaced the collar – it doesn’t call for it in the instructions, but it is also assumed that you are using a heavier fabric. my corduroy was very fine & lightweight (hence the see-thru), and my collar just flops. i considered interfacing it while i was making the thing up, but i wanted to stay as true to the pattern/directions as possible so i could offer better feedback. so there’s my feedback – use a sturdy fabric, or use interfacing!

anyway, i love my jacket and i love all the fun details that make it so special – the topstitching (btw – buy 2 spools of thread. you will need them!), the fine gathering, THAT ELASTIC WAISTBAND THAT IS BEAUTIFUL AND GENIUS (sorry, i got excited for a second there), the inside pockets, the collar. i will definitely make this again – in my preferred yellow, with an interfaced collar :) and a hood. i think i missed out by not doing the hood.

anyway, pictures!

minoru jacket

minoru jacket - zipping

minoru jacket - collar

minoru jacket - back
lovelovelove the back

minoru jacket - unzipping

minoru jacket - unzipping

minoru jacket - ah-sneeze
i am including this picture bc it cracks me up. i was trying to show the lining & i sneezed!

minoru jacket - pocketssss!
pockets!

minoru jacket - open

and some detail shots…
minoru jacket - flat

minoru jacket lining

minoru jacket - elastic

minoru jacket - collar open

minoru jacket - zipped up

minoru jacket - open

ALSO one last thing…

minoru jacket & bikey
minoru & bike.
you jealous? :)

lining the lady grey, part 1

22 Nov

i was able to get a good bit of sewing in over the weekend… we are in for the home stretch at this point! yay!

i would have started the lining sooner, but i am highly intelligent and managed to cut my weft interfacing for the wrong side of the jacket facing >:( so i had to go back to the fabric store and buy more weft. now i just realized i also should have bought more thread. i can’t believe how much thread i’ve gone through at this point – an entire spool of silk, nearly 2 spools of the blue, and almost a full spool of the silver. it’s not like i’m sitting here sewing and ripping out seams over and over, either. ugh!

anyway, i’m about halfway done with the lining. it is in, so pretty much all that’s left at this point is a bunch of handsewing and working on the details.

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help me choose a tag for my coat

17 Nov

as if i didn’t already have enough handsewing on my plate (and sewing in general, ew those christmas gifts ain’t gonna sew themselves), i decided yesterday that my coat needed a pretty embroidered tag for the inside, where i will put the tiny chain you use to hang one’s coat on a hook (speaking of which, where do you buy those things, anyway? the hardware store? the jewelry crafting aisle? i don’t think i’ve ever seen them at my fabric store). my pfaff actually has an embroidery unit – like, not those dinky little monograms you can make that are all of 1/2″ tall, but a legit hooks-onto-your-machine-and-you-buy-embroidery-cards kinda deal – but i don’t really care for machine embroidery. i like the texture of hand embroidery. so pretty!

here were the designs i found at needle’n’thread:
Photobucket

Photobucket

more under the cut!
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pockets & sleeves – my coat is starting to look like a coat

15 Nov

YOU GUYS
MY COAT IS FINALLY STARTING TO LOOK LIKE A COAT!!

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tailoring the lady grey, v2.0

8 Nov

i recently had a bit of downtime in-between working and sew-working (and, god, i just realized i need to start christmas present makin’ asap!) and i managed to finish the padstitching on my coat :)

i don’t know how i feel about padstitching. i want to like it – i love hand-stitching, and i love being able to sit on the couch (not that i don’t love my beautiful sewing room!) and i love that it is quiet so i can hold a conversation while i am sewing. but the shaping that is involved with padstitching, ugh, i could do with the hand cramps and the constant peeking under the bottom to make sure my stitches are sorta-kinda-not-really-hidden-whatever-it’s-the-bottom-and-no-one-is-gonna-look-there-anyway.

but it’s done! well. the lapels are done. the collar padstitching is my next big coat project, but baby steps, y’all.

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living up to my name: tailoring the lady grey

26 Oct

been slowing plodding along on my lady grey! i have a tendency to rush through sewing projects, just to get them “done,” and i never really enjoy the sewing process itself. i am trying to slow down and take my time; get everything done right and learn as much as i can!

but man, it is taking forever! and yes, i am SUPER far behind haha!
and padstitching? ugh, if i’m lucky, i’ll be done by christmas.

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bound buttonholes – my first, second, and third attempt

6 Oct

i haven’t been updating much on the lady grey progress, mostly because i’ve been slogging through the boring stuff.

Photobucket
i cut out my pattern pieces…

Photobucket
serged all the edges…

Photobucket
and marked each one with a small note so i would know which piece was which (since i need all the help i can get!).

i am actually not finished with the cutting yet… i still have to cut the pieces for my interlining (lightweight flannel) and i have more interfacing and hair canvas that needs to be cut. cutting is the worst!

last night i worked on bound buttonholes for the first time.
ARE YOU READY FOR SOME BUTTONHOLE PRON????
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