Vogue 2765, The Muslin

4 Nov

I’m afraid I don’t have a finished object to show y’all today. For exactly one week now, I’ve been dealing with a kidney stone that will NOT leave my body. Seriously, I’ve had these before and they generally pass within a day or two, but these little shits have made a home inside me, I guess, and no amount of water (or other weird home remedy, yes, I drank the olive oil and lemon juice, eww) will expel them. I hate peeing into a screen, I hate taking painkillers, and I hate this little segment of my life right now. I missed half a week of work last week, and get up to go to the bathroom about every twenty minutes on average. Shit blows.

Anyway, enough about me and my TMI, let’s talk more about… me! While I didn’t make anything finished, I did finish the muslin for my Vogue coat! Let’s have a look see.

V2765 Muslin

To be honest, I’m a little underwhelmed. It’s just so… meh. But then again, it’s a coat muslin made with a patchwork of different muslin fabrics, two different sleeves, and I’m not wearing a sweater under it. I was, but I took it off for the pictures because I don’t know why. I guess I wanted to make sure that it still looked good when it was loose. It’s not like I always wear a sweater 24/7, this is Tennessee we are talking about here.

I can’t tell if it really looks ok or if I’m just delusional. Help me.

V2765 Muslin

My pattern was a size too big to start, so I sewed most seams with a 3/4″ seam allowance and I think that really helped with pulling in the fit. It still looks a little loose, but this is also lightweight muslin and not a heavy coating.

V2765 Muslin

The underarms, though. Yikes. Need to raise that quite a bit.

V2765 Muslin

So, more about those sleeves. The right side is the original pattern piece. It’s terrible. I actually left it on so we could laugh at it together. The left sleeve is a two piece sleeve from my Fabiani coat (whyyy can’t I just wear that this winter? Wish it still fit :'( ). I definitely like the two piece better, but it needs some tweaking as it’s a bit tight when I have on a bulky underlayer. I sewed it with the same 3/4″ seam allowance, so I think the normal 5/8″ will be fine.

V2765 Muslin
V2765 Muslin

Ahaha! See how bad the underarms are? Granted, that’s the shitty sleeve, where the problem was actually worse.. but still. It’s bad either way.

V2765 Muslin

Speaking of the original sleeve, this is why it’s so bad. It is a straight line from underarm to wrist – no tapering whatsoever. So the cuff, you can see straight to the elbow. Who thought that was a good idea?! God, it’s so terrible.

Anyway, I’m still on the fence about this, although I will say that leaving it alone overnight on my dressform (which, if you were wondering, is almost entirely what I use the dressform now these days. Putting shit on it so I can decide if I hate it the next day) gave me a ~fresh eye~. I guess I just want to make sure I’m not off my rocker here.

To recap, the fabric I’m using is this black and white checkered coating (which I’m almost having second thoughts about because, ughhh princess seams) and I haven’t settled on a lining, but I’m leaning heavily toward tango red. Also haven’t picked buttons (lolol I’m a hot mess), but I’m thinking toggles would be FUN.

Soo, what do you think? Vogue 2765, yea or nay? See any other fitting issues I failed to mention (beyond the underarms)? Want to sew a coat along with me (I’m going the “barely tailored” route)? Have any well-wishes you’d like to share with a lady who needs to exorcise this demonkidney stone? I’m all ears!

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93 Responses to “Vogue 2765, The Muslin”

  1. Maggie November 4, 2013 at 8:34 am #

    I think it is a cute coat! I love the front collar and the seaming of the back pieces. Yes, the sleeves are insane, and you are already raising the armhole. There is something about the top (back?) part of the collar that looks like it is either too small for the front or positioned too far back? I can’t pinpoint exactly what it is, which is not particularly helpful. Although, it also may be due to the fact that it is in muslin, or the angle of the pictures. I love the fabric, but yes, that will be some fun matching!!! Good luck with the kidney stone, I hope it is over soon!

  2. Louise Biedrzycki November 4, 2013 at 8:42 am #

    So sorry about the kidney stones, been there! I Hate the little screen, made for a freakin’ man! Anyway, I’m not likin the huge collar on the coat, but I am 61. Not a fashion queen. Love the idea for red lining. Wishing u well, Louise

  3. vinthillvintage November 4, 2013 at 8:44 am #

    I think the right sleeve is definitely an improvement. I would caution you against overfitting it because your fabric will be thicker plus have lining and maybe a sweater under it. Those sleeves should certainly taper though. I hope you feel better soon!

  4. Dana November 4, 2013 at 8:50 am #

    Ah the importance of doing a muslin. I was feeling lazy and considering not doing one for my next project, but you’ve convinced me otherwise.
    To be honest, I’m not loving the coat. It’s not particularly flattering and you don’t look thrilled in the photos either (though is that mostly kidney stone unhappiness?).

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:02 pm #

      It’s probably a little bit of both, to be honest haha. Emphasis on the kidney stone tragedy :P

  5. Robin W November 4, 2013 at 8:54 am #

    I think you’ve hit all the salient points! I happen to like the large collar – here in Kansas City, having a collar large enough to fold over is a good thing.

    I am so glad you shared your muslin. I’ve never made a muslin and it would be so important for something as significant as a coat. I am curious how you will adjust for the obvious underarm problem. Do you deconstruct the muslin and cut a new one? Patch in an adjustment? Really want to learn how to custom fit patterns as I am NEVER the way the pattern companies think I should be. Thanks!

    Robin

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:04 pm #

      I’ve made this adjustment before (on the Fabiani coat, actually, haha) – you just need to raise the bottom of the armhole, which means taping in paper and cutting until it’s right. Comparing it to a sleeve that does work on your body helps. Then, yep, you make a new muslin (or rip out the pieces with the armhole and just recut those) to make sure the changes are good. This isn’t something that can be easily fixed once the coat is cut out of the good fabric, so it’s important to figure it out in the muslin stage.

      • Robin W November 8, 2013 at 7:41 pm #

        thanks lady! I’m old enough to be your mother, but I learn new things from you all the time!

      • Tiffany November 14, 2013 at 10:06 am #

        I’m so behind on blogs, but I have a question about this armhole thing. Once your fix it on your muslin, how do you translate that back to the original pattern? I can always adjust to make it fit, but then it is a terrible strain and a lot of guessing to translate to the original and get a correct cut on my actual fabric. There must be an easier way…help!

        • LLADYBIRD November 14, 2013 at 6:53 pm #

          Honestly, I just rip the muslin apart (sew it with a basting stitch! It’s easier to rip apart *and* faster to sew up in the first place, haha) and use that as a guide to adjust the pattern piece. I tape a big piece of tissue paper to the underarm area of the pattern, and then lay the muslin on top and trace what has changed. I hope that makes sense.

  6. Caroline November 4, 2013 at 9:01 am #

    I’m having the same dilemma with my winter coat / vintage project. On the envelope it looks beyond fabulous, but in muslin I’m second guessing it. It has huge lapels, and exaggerated “man-style” tailoring and a very full bell skirt. It just seems like a lot, especially with dramatically stripy fabric that I want to use. I like your muslin. I think we should both power through our concerns and stick with our initial vision.

  7. Nakisha November 4, 2013 at 9:04 am #

    Ugh kidney stones – feel better soon.

    Wait – your right or our right? Because the sleeve on your actual left arm seems far too big!

    I agree with Vinthillvintage. Not too fitted because you don’t want to be a stylish zombie…walking in your coat with sleeves that don’t allow movement! :0

    The coat is going to be kick-ass. Never mind the bland, blah muslin fabric.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:05 pm #

      Sorry, I mean the viewer’s right/left :)

  8. Miss Celie November 4, 2013 at 9:05 am #

    I think if you raise the waistline, you will be much happier. It would show off your figure better and be a better proportion. Methinks.

    • Gertrude November 4, 2013 at 9:20 am #

      I think the coat is just the wrong size – it looks too big in the back. Raising the waist may help, but I think you need a smaller size completely.

      • Amy November 4, 2013 at 2:06 pm #

        I might fall into the coat being too-big camp, too. I can’t tell from the photos if the shoulder seams seem a tad wide? Hmmm… Not much help, I know! But, good luck with those crazy kidney stones. I feel you…

      • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:05 pm #

        I think you are all probably right. Glad I posted these pictures on the ‘nets, ha! :)

  9. Kelly November 4, 2013 at 9:14 am #

    It’s so hard to tell with muslin when your finished garment will be out of such a different fabric. I think that out of a nice wool coating this will be a great coat! It does look a little big, though, and I agree that the raising the waist might help. But maybe that’s just because it’s muslin and there’s no sweater underneath? Well, good luck with the coat, and I really, really hope you feel better soon!

  10. KristiEllKay November 4, 2013 at 9:16 am #

    Firstly, excellent call on the sleeve-changingness. And have fun matching that plaid, good lord! =p I love the shape on you (except for those low arm holes LAWLZ), and that collar is fabzorz!!

    Can I also just say how happy I am to see an “in-progress” sort of post? I know you’re a sewing MACHINE, making FOs left and right, but I kinda miss seeing this sort of post, too. Maybe cause I’m still all beginnery. Anyways, good job and thanks for sharing with us!!

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:07 pm #

      Aw, I had no idea people liked these kinds of posts! Honestly, I find them kind of boring, which is why I rarely share them on my blog anymore. But if y’all like ‘em, then, well, I aim to please :)

  11. mrsmole November 4, 2013 at 9:43 am #

    Your right sleeve, the hand that is holding the screwdriver or remote, looks narrower and better. It all looks coat-like until you have the back view, then it looks sloppy. How about narrowing the back a bit by pinning out the center back seam from the neck to waist? That way the back of the sleeves will come into your body a little and even hike up the armhole a little. Then try it on with all the layering you would normally wear…muslins need the real deal underneath or they look like hospital gowns.Cutting a size smaller might feel better but you don’t want to have to use a shoehorn to get that puppy on.You see really crappy fitting muslins on my clients on my blog…at least you haven’t had to slash and spread anything!!!

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:08 pm #

      I like this suggestion of taking in the center back, definitely going to try that!

  12. Jen November 4, 2013 at 9:55 am #

    It’s looking good – just some tweaks needed, I think. Armholes – definitely. The back waist is drooping, and so it looks like you need to fold out some of that fabric. Front is a little long in the waist too, but that might disappear over slightly bulkier clothing or light shoulder padding. The large check is going to be a little challenging with the princess lines and the a-line shaped coat skirt. That would be my only concern, but otherwise I will be cute!

    • Jen November 4, 2013 at 9:57 am #

      Oops. The last “I” = “it.” Subconciously admiring the future garment, I guess!

  13. Liz November 4, 2013 at 9:59 am #

    Ugh! Kidney stones are the worst!!! I was struck by one this past May and it was the WORST pain I have ever experienced- I can’t imagine dealing with one for a week! :'( It might be time to head back to the doctor…. I seem to recall the doc in a box I went to saying if you hadn’t passed it in a few days to come back in :-/
    (Also, I have no opinions on the coat- I’m still trying to comprehend how you’re able to do anything but lay on the couch clutching your side/back in pain after dealing with a kidney stone for a week!)

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:09 pm #

      Oh yeah, sorry! I should have mentioned that I’ve been to a regular doctor as well as a urologist. They gave me some meds to help me pass (which haven’t worked, yet, boooo), so it’s just a waiting game at this point. And I’m functioning because I’m on pain meds :) As long as I don’t let them lapse, I can get shit done. Mostly. Haha.

  14. Catherine November 4, 2013 at 10:06 am #

    How about adding underarm gussets to increase the range of movement?

    clothesandsewing.blogspot.com

  15. birdmommy November 4, 2013 at 10:14 am #

    Personally, I wouldn’t make any final decisions on the coat until you’ve passsed the stone (and are off the painkillers). I’ve occassionally found ‘awesome’ projects I started while on the stuff that are a little WTF once I’m drug free. :)

    (and I second the suggestion to go see a doctor. I ended up nearly rupturing a kidney (hydronephrosis) because the stupid stone was blocking the ureter. Sorry for the TMI!)

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:12 pm #

      Good point! I think I’m just overwhelmed, I may work a few more tweaks and then let it sit for the next bit.

      Also, I totally should have said this in the post, but i have been to both the doctor and a urologist :) We believe the stone is actually blocking my ureter at this point, but it’s not completely blocked (and it’s a small stone) so we can afford to wait to see if it wants to pass. Like, PASS DAMMIT haaha.

  16. Tanya November 4, 2013 at 10:21 am #

    Hi Lauren

    Have you tried this one for Kidney stones?

    It comes in tea bags or capsules.

  17. Burke November 4, 2013 at 10:26 am #

    I like the large collar, but the rest of it is just sort of “meh”. I’m wondering too if a shorter length would look better on your frame? Do you have some wool lying around that you could make the bodice and sleeves in just to check how it would be in something closer to the coating weight?

    Hope you get to feeling better soon – ugh!

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:13 pm #

      I actually already shortened it about 3″, but you’re right, it’s still a little long. I wish I had some wool lying around! Ughhh, coat muslins are hard haha

  18. Chickeys November 4, 2013 at 10:36 am #

    First, hope you feel better soon!! Kidney/bladder/downstairs plumbing stuff is the worst. :(

    Second, I LOVE the look of this coat, and despite the muslin underwhelming you, I think it will look beyond awesome as a finished object. About raising the waist…not sure that’s the approach I would take, unless the line is not actually at your natural waist. I might just pinch out some of the back wrinkles. Also, agree about the sleeve: YES to the 2-piece sleeve.

    (Man, if I had this pattern I’d be dropping everything and making it up in fire-engine red wool coating with a crazy B&W printed lining. Yep.)

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:13 pm #

      Don’t you dare talk me into buying more coating! I gotta use what I have haha!

  19. Blue Sunday November 4, 2013 at 10:45 am #

    Kidney stones are spawns of satan. I hope you get them out soon! Those little buggers are a hot freaking mess.

    Like the coat pattern. And I’m a collar girl. You can carry off that collar Lauren. Own that collar and work it girl! LOL!

    Question – and this could be my beginner sewing eye. When you raise the armholes will that raise the bust line? The bustline looks just a tad low. But it could be because the underarms are just so large.

    Let us know what you decide to do. I hope you blog about raising the armhole. I’m currently trying to fit my first blazer and fitting is a challenge.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:15 pm #

      I don’t think raising the armholes will affect the bust line. I may be doing it all wrong, but I literally just add paper to the pattern piece until the arm hole is high enough. Is that wrong? I have googled and I could never find an answer on how to do it, so that seemed like the best way hahah

  20. goodbyevalentino November 4, 2013 at 10:50 am #

    Poor you – hope you get rid of those things soon :)
    The coat……. don’t know based on the muslin, but I’m certain that if you decide to make it, the coat will be super. Look forward to hearing a decision from a better you. Take care!

  21. Lola November 4, 2013 at 10:52 am #

    I know Im supposed to comment about the muslin, but before I read it through, here you go : http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Christophers-Original-Formulas-Capsules/dp/B000N3BZIA

    try that for kidney stones.. it should pretty much dissolve those suckers.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:15 pm #

      Thank you for the rec! I wonder if I can find this locally… :)

  22. tialys November 4, 2013 at 11:06 am #

    I’ve given birth twice and had a kidney stone once – I’d rather have another baby, it was less painful.
    I actually like the coat and, once you’ve fixed the fitting problems, I think it will look great in the colours you mentioned.
    Good luck with both things.

  23. CGCouture November 4, 2013 at 11:16 am #

    I made almost this exact coat (mine was a McCall’s) last year, and the armholes and sleeves were a BFM on that pattern too. I spent several hours tweaking to get them right, but it was worth it in the end.

    I have no experience with kidney stones myself, just loads of experience with UTIs. It sounds like they have similar symptoms, but at least with the UTI you get to take some medicine and it goes away fairly quickly. My MIL gets kidney stones, and she goes to the dr and they seem to have stuff that helps, so definitely go see your doc!!

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:18 pm #

      I got some meds from my dr that are supposed to help me pass, no dice yet. Fingers are still crossed, though!

  24. lapastourelle November 4, 2013 at 11:20 am #

    Don’t worry about the muslin–it will look fab once the coat is done up.

    Second, I agree–the underarms are a hot mess. Unfortunately all I have is a critic and no helpful advice on this point But, I think you also need a narrow shoulder adjustment to pull in those sleeve heads about and inch (??) on either side. It won’t fix all the problems, but it will make the sleeves head look a hellava lot nicer and easier to put in (and let’s face it, sleeve heads are a bitch to begin in anyway!).

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:19 pm #

      I think you’re right about the narrow shoulder adjustment. I will try that!

  25. Lori November 4, 2013 at 11:27 am #

    Oh, so sorry about the kidney stones. Hubby has those and they are no fun (for either of us!). The coat, hard to tell with the muslin, but I agree with Miss Celie, raise the waist. Good luck with the stones and the coat.

  26. ShanniLoves November 4, 2013 at 11:32 am #

    I think you should go for it! It’ll be so awesome in that print.
    Good luck with those stones. I’ve never had them but heard they are pretty painful. Hope you pass the fuckers soon!

  27. maddie November 4, 2013 at 11:38 am #

    That was the first thing I thought when I saw the photos – yikes! The sleeves! I agree with raising the waist – I think that will make it much more flattering. Also, with the pockets, who doesn’t love pockets, this coat will be a knockout!

  28. ThreadTime November 4, 2013 at 12:34 pm #

    Overall, I like the pattern, but definitely think it will look so much better after you work your magic on those sleeves. I really want to see how you correct the armhole! I always have to make major FBA when fitting myself and the armhole is always a problem area. I’m always looking for solutions. Good luck with this. I know it will look fabulous when you’re finished with it.

    Ramona

  29. Chantal November 4, 2013 at 12:36 pm #

    I don’t have much advice on fitting since I’m a beginner, but I think once you get sleeves and back sorted out, the style is going to look amazing made with actual coating fabric! I can’t wait to see it, and I hope you post details on what you end up doing to sort out the fit since I’d like to make up a coat one day and that would be super helpful. I hope you feel better soon!

  30. MaryM November 4, 2013 at 12:41 pm #

    Lemon juice in your water will help dissolve kidney stones although not very fast. If you have a history of kidney stones it might be helpful to make lemon water part of your normal routine after this episode is over. Sorry you are in so much pain!

  31. Rachael-Lynn November 4, 2013 at 12:42 pm #

    Have you ever watched any of the (i think its Shingo Sato) TR cutting school videos on YouTube? They are first and foremost freaking amazing, but there is one where they take an ill-fitting Trench coat Muslin and “re-do” it based on this fitting method. IT. IS. AMAZING! Check it out!

  32. Denise November 4, 2013 at 12:45 pm #

    I think plaid looks adorable with princess seams. I HATE that sleeve (although I think the other on looks a little big too). I think the whole thing looks a little big… you know what? I have a friend who does NOT sew. but her mother does. Back this summer when I was ogling coat patterns, she told me that her mom would muslin coats out of cheapy polar fleece. That way, the weight and bulk were about right and it was a lot easier to tell if it was going to be good or not. Feeling up to another muslin?
    Sorry about the blasted kidney stones :( Sounds like a recipe for a movie marathon, though.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:21 pm #

      Polar fleece is a BRILLIANT idea! Hmmm. I wonder if I can find it for cheap here? I recall it being around $10/yard, but maybe that was just for the licensed crap.

      • Leslie November 4, 2013 at 11:42 pm #

        Polar fleece is my suggestion, too. Instead of heading to JoAnn’s, go check out your Goodwill outlet for cheapo fleece blankets. I’ve also taken to thrifted ugly flannel sheets and hideous curtains as muslin fabric for heavier weight fabrics.

        Good luck on the kidney stone, I’m waiting on my CHILD to emerge. At least my enormous object that refuses to exit my body will take care of me in old age. You should hang on to that stone a guilt it about how long you were “in labor”

  33. Seamstress from Venus November 4, 2013 at 1:02 pm #

    I would probably make the collar a tad smaller. And nip it in at the waist a bit. Looks great though! Hope you feel better soon!

  34. Dorien November 4, 2013 at 1:14 pm #

    I’m sure you’ll make it look great BUT why don’t you make yourself a cute watson jacket? :-) I made mine up super quick, the fit is great AND the sleeves are nicely tapered ;-) I’m instagramming a pic soon bc I desperately need the coppelia pattern. Ha!

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:22 pm #

      Haha, in due time! I already have this coating fabric, so I need to find a use for it (and I think it would be toooo much on the Watson). But I do have a Watson planned at some point :)

  35. jennymoulden November 4, 2013 at 1:24 pm #

    Ack, sounds like you’ve had an awful week… hope you’re on the mend soon.

    Sewing a coat is a huge investment of energy & time, so I’d say if you feel as unsure as you sound that you should move along to a new pattern. It’s not like there’s a shortage of ones to choose from :-) I reckon cut your losses now because it’s so heartbreaking to get to the end only to realise you’ve spent sooooo many hours on something you feel ambivalent about.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:23 pm #

      You make a fantastic point. I think I will try a couple simple tweaks with this muslin, and if they don’t work I will just move on. I’d love to use the pattern since it was a gift from a reader (and I haate the idea of someone giving me something and then me just never using it, you know?), but there’s no point in forcing a pattern to work if it doesn’t want to work.

  36. sassycrafter November 4, 2013 at 3:20 pm #

    The rear-facing picture makes it look like it could be a smidge big, since the shoulders look way wide. Does it call for shoulder pads, and if so, did you already insert them for these pictures? Something to think about for the final fit.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:24 pm #

      I didn’t put shoulder pads in this muslin, although I totally should have. You caught me! :)

  37. oonaballoona November 4, 2013 at 3:56 pm #

    dude, you know what? it’s cute on you but toss that shit. you need kidney stone repelling sewing right now, not raising armholes and f’ed up sleeves.

    fa real.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:24 pm #

      This comment right here is exactly why I love you :)

      Tossing that shit aside!

  38. Ruthe November 4, 2013 at 4:07 pm #

    Hon,it’s just too big for you! You should pop in some shoulder pads to realise the true finished shape. Put it to one side, get yourself better and re visit in a week or so. Hope you feel much better soon.

  39. dani hart November 4, 2013 at 4:08 pm #

    Am I being really thick? Can’t you just make the Fabiani coat again? xx

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:26 pm #

      It’s too big :( I think my pattern copy is a 36, which I sized down to a 34, and I’m more of a 32 now. I still have the coat I made, and it’s just too big on me to look good :(

  40. Colette Godfrey November 4, 2013 at 4:49 pm #

    In that muslin fabric it reminds me a lot of my work labcoat! I like the pattern though, with modifications to the original sleeve. I would be sorely tempted to put a bow like the bleuet one in the back at the princess seams, although you did that one in plaid too and they would look very similar? Boo to kidney stones!

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:27 pm #

      Ohh, I love that bow! Wouldn’t that be super cute!

  41. Juno November 4, 2013 at 5:18 pm #

    I know others have mentioned this, but I agree: it seems to me that the back is too wide and the proportion of top to bottom is equal – if you raise the waist an inch and lengthen the skirt an inch, i think it will look more graceful on you.

  42. Dawn Redmond November 4, 2013 at 7:49 pm #

    I think the style is good for you, but the whole thing is just one or maybe 2 sizes too big. The bodice is too long, the shoulders are too wide, the back is way too big. You would be much happier with smaller all over. If you are set on the checked fabric, you should save yourself a lot of frustration by finding a style that doesn’t have the Princess seams. I think you should decide which of the two you want the most. I have to say b&w checks, red lining, and toggle buttons sounds awesome.

    • LLADYBIRD November 4, 2013 at 8:27 pm #

      I think you’re right. I should probably just try to find a different pattern altogether. Oh well, at least I muslined it first!:)

  43. carolinascallin November 4, 2013 at 8:29 pm #

    Wow…big project, but going by your past projects, this will turn out great! Can’t wait to see how you do the sleeves :)

    So sorry you’re dealing with kidney stones. Hope you’re so much better soon. Don’t drink too much tea – iced or hot, btw…!

  44. lisa g November 4, 2013 at 8:37 pm #

    love the fabric you have picked out! hmmm princess seams with it though… and waist seam… that sounds like not much fun for print matching. hope the kidney stone passes soon, sounds super painful :(

  45. Phyllis November 5, 2013 at 5:34 am #

    I have this same issue with Vogue on every pattern and I think it’s their sloper, which for some bizarre reason is proportioned for the UConn women’s basketball team. I don’t know what size they grade from but I suspect their sloper is a 16 and they grade up/down from there.

  46. Kim November 5, 2013 at 8:35 am #

    Ahhh hope you feel better soon! I don’t really know about the muslin, I think once the fit of the shoulders is better it might make a super nice coat.. I am in love with the fabric you picked!

    • Kim November 5, 2013 at 8:36 am #

      I meant arms instead of shoulders, sorry!

  47. clareyszabo November 5, 2013 at 8:36 am #

    Hey you! Firstly, I really hope this kidney stone knows who’s boss and leaves your body soon, that does not sound like fun. Secondly, I think this muslin is a case of is the garment wearing you, or you wearing it? (Yeah I’m smoking crack right now haha) But seriously, you have such a cute petite frame that I think the coat is overwhelming you. The collar is too big for starters and that is naturally where the eye goes to first as it’s the main feature. However, I will say that all these elements probably look worse because of the stark pale colour of the muslin. I find that when I use my calico to make things up. It’s hard to look past that all over paleness and imagine the lovely fashion fabric you’ll use. But, if you’re really in doubt I say find something new and get some relief from throwing in the towel.

  48. Rochelle New November 5, 2013 at 9:07 am #

    Aww I’m so sorry you’ve been sick with kidney stones! My mom had one once that needed to be exploded with a laser lol. I really hope you don’t have to get lasered. Personally, if I absolutely hate something at the muslin stage then I don’t try to fix it or go through with that pattern. I can pretty much imagine the finished picture and tell when I’m going to love something even when the muslin is awful. I have faith that whatever you decide to do from this point will be amazing, as always. Feel better!! xoxo

  49. Nona November 5, 2013 at 12:25 pm #

    So sorry about the stones… ;-( As I look at your muslin I see a few things that can/should be adjusted. The front of the coat seems to fit you well… princess seams are positioned where they are supposed to be. The center back of the coat looks too wide on you and should be taken in down the center, and more so at the top than at the bottom of that piece. That will alleviate some (not all) of the armhole problem, and will also make the back of the coat look more fitted to your petite frame. You may still need to pull in the back side of the armhole although the front side of the armhole looks good when your arms are down… 1st picture … but a little large when your arms are wide open… 3rd picture… The 2 piece sleve should be taken in a little at the top – about 3″ above the elbow, and again about 3″ below the elbow to accommodate for you being petite. Devide the amount of fold up you have now at the bottom, minus the seam allowance, and subtract that from the two places I mentioned before, on the sleeve. As far as raising the waist, I wouldn’t much, because when you put on a blouse/sweater, possibly a scarf under it, it will naturally raise the waist a bit. The shoulder seam also looks like it hangs a bit low, but don’t do anything about it until you’ve tried it on over normal clothes, and you may even want to pin a shoulder pad into place before you make that decision. When making a muslin for a coat you need to wear under it, something similar to what you will be wearing under it when the coat is finished. Hope some of this helps! You are an amazine seamstress, and I love your bite on things…

  50. Mahnaz November 5, 2013 at 6:02 pm #

    Hi L, have you tried beer made of Hop for the kidney stones? Something like Carlsberg, at least 1 bottle a day, for a couple of weeks. It is quite bitter, but desolves those suckers like magic. Be sure to check that you are allowed to drink alcohol with the medication you are given. Hope you feel better soon.

    • LLADYBIRD November 7, 2013 at 8:15 am #

      I would love to try it, but unfortunately I can’t have alcohol with the antibiotics I’m on right now (and for the next two weeks… ughhhh). I also can’t have coffee. I hate my life right lol.

  51. Gjeometry November 5, 2013 at 9:51 pm #

    Hope you feel better soon Lauren! I think the muslin is coming along nicely!

  52. Lisette November 6, 2013 at 7:06 am #

    I hope you feel better soon! The muslin is looking good, of course, except that whole sleeve issue. Sometimes I wonder if the pattern drafters are just lazy, or incompetent or if the companies are giving them enough time to draft properly. You know, like they just have the worst bosses? Who knows. I went back and re-read your posts on your other coat because they were just so good.

  53. redsilvia November 6, 2013 at 9:45 am #

    I hope you’re taking Oona’s sage advice. I love that vintage Vogue pattern – in fact I own it but it doesn’t seem to be fitting. That coupled with the princess lines and you being sick may be too much to bite off right now.

    How about the Andy Coat by Named? I think that would be tremendous on you. Plus I want to see how it goes for you, my little guinea piglet.
    http://www.namedclothing.com/collections/jackets-coats/products/andy-coat

    Feel better!

    • LLADYBIRD November 7, 2013 at 8:14 am #

      Waaaah why did you show me that Andy coat?! Now I want it haha! Fucking dr bills killing my budget this month :'(

  54. CarmencitaB November 7, 2013 at 3:26 am #

    You know, I think it might be a bit big, but the real culprit is the poor sleeve drafting of Vogue patterns in general. I would frankenpattern a Burda sleeve. 2 pieces, more anatomically correct and higher armscye.

  55. Beth (SunnyGal Studio) November 7, 2013 at 12:05 pm #

    whew kidney stones, hope you are better soon. As for the coat. waaay too big. I think the waist is too low, horizontal tuck all around. Shoulders a bit too wide. does the pattern call for shoulder pads? if so you have to pin then in the muslin and try on, to get the right fit. Also, you could take a vertical tuck in both front and back to reduce width (do it out near the sleeve seam) If the pattern does not call for shoulder pads you might want to consider them anyway, just small ones in terms of thickness but for a coat the shoulder pad supports the top and lets the coat front and back hang nicely. Good luck and I agree with someone above who said maybe wait til you are feeling a little better – time to rest and catch up on movies or something. good luck with both !, Beth

  56. Laura November 7, 2013 at 12:12 pm #

    I think if you make it more fitting, it might actually look better as a coat dress instead of a coat. If you tweaked the sleeves, it might actually look good. My eyes strayed to those big collars. Kind of didn’t flatter the whole look. Perhaps if you reshape it or make it smaller or more tailored looking, it might be better. Oh, the stones…hope you get that fixed and feel better asap. Hate to miss any of your posts. Love your work! I look forward to an updated version soon.

  57. Stephanie November 7, 2013 at 4:37 pm #

    Oh god, kidney stones, I feel your pain, literally. It’s been years, but I still get a wince-y feeling in my right kidney just at the thought of them. I had them frequently but I seem to have outgrown them (probably somewhere in my mid 30s?). My mum also had them as a young woman, then never again. I do so hope that that will happen for you too, and sooner rather than later! I don’t have anything to suggest other than drinking lots of water.

  58. Cisa Barry (@Cisamisa) November 7, 2013 at 4:51 pm #

    I love your face in the first under arm picture. It’s just so you ;)

    PS, totes craving some Hattie B’s right now

  59. nycbookwriter November 10, 2013 at 10:12 am #

    Chickie,

    I heart the fabric . . . I just emailed you a pick of my coat and lining fabric. That looks like next week. I’m finishing a silk dress this week and maybe a button down, so next week for sure (and, I have to have it for Thanksgiving as my Mom ordered me to have it one when I get to her house).

    When I’m down with Lupus . . . almost in the same vein as a kidney stone, I sketch elaborate projects that I will do. I mean like highly elaborate. I did my wedding dress like that, and then the sketch sat for years. Then . . . then I had it. Point: find something shiny to look at it. ;)

  60. jenna (@KittyCatStevens) November 11, 2013 at 10:44 pm #

    when i saw the thumbnail for this post i thought you had made a robe— yikes! i have a hard enough time shopping for coats, i can’t even imagine making one. coats fit my everywhere but the shoulder/arm i dk. i just freeze and get bitter in winter bc ill fitting coats cause me to not buy any. but alas— none of this is really helping you because i know practically nothing about sewing and even less about coats.

    but i have seen two hella beautiful coats that you’ve made so i can at least say i have faith in you! (i’m now you’re official lladybird cheerleader, YAY!)

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. The Vogue Coat: Muslin #2 | LLADYBIRD - November 15, 2013

    […] with yet ANOTHER muslin post. Forreal, tho, y’all were so helpful in my last muslin post, that I’m sticking my hand back in the cookie jar again. A little help, yes […]

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