Thurlow Sew-Along: Belt Loops & Finishing

9 Nov

This is the last post in our sew-along, folks. We are about to finish up these bad boys once and for all!


Today we will be sewing steps 20-22 – making and attaching the belt loops, adding a button and hook and eye, and hemming the pants. That’s it! That’s all that’s left!

b2
Belt loops first! If you don’t want to add belt loops to your pants, that’s fine – you can skip this part and scroll down. If you are adding belt loops, I hope you can see this picture. It should enlarge through Flickr if you are having trouble.
Finish one long edge of the belt loop piece – preferably with something that won’t add much bulk, as this fabric will be triple folded onto itself. Mine is serged. Fold the piece into thirds – start by folding the unfinished long edge about 5/8″, press, then fold the finished edge over that, and press again. Topstitch on either side of the folded piece, making sure to catch all layers through both rows of stitching.

b3
Cut the belt loops into 6 equal pieces. The instructions call for 4 1/2″ length, but I find that to be a bit too long for the width of the waistband, so mine are 3 1/4″.

b5
This step is totally optional, but I like to finish the raw edges of my belt loops so they don’t unravel over time. If you have a serger, just shove them under the presser foot one after the other and serge in one long line. If you don’t have a serger, you can zig-zag with your sewing machine. Repeat on the other side.

b6
You will end up with something like this.

b7
Then cut all the little pieces apart.
Again, this step is optional. If you don’t finish the edges of your belt loops, I’m pretty sure the sewing police won’t arrest you for fraud or anything :B

b8
Take your first belt loop and fold one end back about 1/2″ or so (however little you can get away with, due to the bulk). If your belt loops are closer to 4″, you may need to fold more back.

b9
Pin the belt loop to the pants waistband, right along the top edge. The belt loops are centered over the back darts, side seams, and front pockets. The diagram in the pattern is very helpful if you need more placement guidance.

b10
Fold the bottom of the belt loop back approximately the same amount as the top (in my case, 1/2″) and pin along the bottom of the waistband.

b11
The belt loops are not intended to lay perfectly flat along the waistband – there should be a little bit of room. You know, so you can fit a belt in there :)

b12
Continue all the way around the waistband until all the belt loops are pinned down.

b13
To sew them down, stitch as close as possible to the top edge of the waistband. I like to go over this stitching line a few times – forward, backward, forward again, and then a small back stitch to secure. Don’t want those belt loops going anywhere!

b14
Sew the bottom of the loops down in the same manner, getting as close to the seam as possible.

b15
Here is what my sewn on belt loops are looking like. Shnazzy!

b16
All belt loops should be sewn on at this point.

The next step is hemming, but I like to save that for last and I find the fit of my pants is slightly affected without a proper closure at the top. So I’m going to skip 21 and jump straight to step 22.

b17
Button hole goes on the left front – it should be placed right at the edge before the triangle point starts.
Sew your button on the inside of the right front, being careful not to stitch on the outside of the pants.

b18
Hook goes on the right front – butt it as close to the edge as you possibly can, without it actually showing from the outside. I like to sew mine on using a blanket stitch, as it tends to be a bit more secure.
To locate the exact placement of the eye, zip the zipper closed and rub the edge of the hook (where the eye would sit if it was closed) with a soft piece of chalk until it is coated in powder.

b19
Close your pants up and press firmly over the hook.

b20
When you open them again, there should be a little chalk print where the hook was.

b21
Sew your eye right over it! EASY.

You can go ahead and hem your pants at this point. The pattern allows for a 1 3/4″ seam allowance, which can either be turned and topstitched or hemmed invisibly with a slip stitch. Tasia has a great tutorial on invisible hemming with seam binding – hers is shown on a dress, but it would work just as well with pants.

And that wraps it up for the sew along! If you’re still catching up or have only been watching from the sidelines, don’t worry – these posts will be here indefinitely, as long as you need them. If you have any questions that were not covered, I’m always happy to answer via comments and/or emails. Hopefully these pictures & word vomit made you feel much more confident about tackling pants. Because, dude, pants are awesome. Especially when they have cowboys inside them :)

I’ll post a reveal of my finished pair on Monday. PANTSSSSS.

(thanks, Andi, for reminding me that this exists!!)

About these ads

5 Responses to “Thurlow Sew-Along: Belt Loops & Finishing”

  1. Anne November 9, 2012 at 10:54 am #

    A little behind on the pants/shorts, but I was SO hoping you’d include this clip! (Also, I totally made a pun. Awesome!)

  2. StephC November 9, 2012 at 5:29 pm #

    Beautiful, beautiful photography, great post. :)

  3. Dana December 12, 2012 at 4:48 pm #

    You are fabulous! I was struggling with the welted pockets and contacted Sewacholic for some help. They directed me to you. Thank you, thank you thank you!

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Thurlow Sew-Along: My Completed Thurlows! « LLADYBIRD - November 12, 2012

    [...] For those of you lurking on the sidelines – just do it! Take the plunge! Muslin Fitting Choosing a Fabric Adjusting the Back Pockets Sewing the Front Pockets Welt Pockets Sewing the Fly Zipper Attaching the Waistband Belt Loops and Finishing [...]

  2. Sewing the Robson Trench Coat, part 2 | LLADYBIRD - April 29, 2013

    [...] make the belt loops, I followed the same procedure as for the Thurlow belt loops. You can see a tutorial on that here (from my Thurlow [...]

Yay, comments!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

me-made-may'13

Contact Me!

I love getting emails! Yay emails! lladybirdlauren AT gmail DOT com

Oooh statistics

  • 1,992,285 hits
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 1,742 other followers

%d bloggers like this: