sooo i have no idea who cynthia steffe is, but apparently she is a big-shot designer who sells her digs @ nordstrom’s for like $345:
and then sells the rights to vogue for pattern-making!
vogue 1174- fortunately, the took a hint with that michael kors styling disaster and this one actually looks really nice.
i have been working on this pattern since monday and i’m pretty close to being finished. i don’t even know why i have been making this pattern – i look awful in strapless dresses. at any rate, there are several techniques here that i wanted to try out – boning, inner foundation (like, a lightweight corset), piping, etc – so here i am. the pattern is not nearly as advanced as i expected it to be, although i am about to start working on the inner guts (aka the foundation and boning) tonight, so i may end up changing my mind at any rate, the instructions are fairly straight-forward. the only problem i’ve been having is with the fitting. even with a muslin, the fitting has been a total bear
the pattern calls for brocade or damask. i did go to the fabric store and i did diligently search for something suitable, but in my opinion brocade = ~asian inspired~ shiny prints; and damask = curtains. i like the fabrics they used on both the pattern envelope and the RTW version, but of course they don’t sell anything like that to real people.
at any rate, i ended up getting some nice cotton sateen in a similar weight, and now i am making a sailor-inspired dress.
i know i said this pattern is fairly enough and straight-forward, but HOLY HELL i have never ripped out so many seams as i have with this pattern! i don’t even think it is vogue’s fault, minus the fact that there are twenty-seven pieces to the dress. i think i am just incompetent and i should not drink wine while i am sewing. for every 3 seams i sew, one gets ripped out.
i had to rip ALL those seams and re-insert. thank god i hadn’t dropped in the lining yet.
the piping was really easy to insert… the hardest part is getting your stitches close enough so that everything lies flush with the seams (but not sewn unevenly). i don’t have a piping foot, which kind of sucks, but i figured out that i can use my invisible zipper foot with very satisfactory results.
speaking of the lining, i’m not really sure why, but i keep getting pattern instructions that tell me to stick in the lining and then hand slipstitch it to the zipper. i think that looks kind of unfinished – although i will be the first to admit that my slipstitching looks like crap anyway. i have been inserting the lining in a way that it is machine-stitched to the zipper from the inside, so no stitching is visible from the outside. i’ve had a few people ask me how i do it, and it is kind of hard to explain but i took a few pictures last night (sorry they are so dark, it was pretty late :\):
then sew it together using a regular zipper foot, making sure to catch only the seam allowance. i sew with my foot against the edge of the teeth; it leaves about 1/8″ or so space between the stitching and the teeth so that the lining doesn’t catch when i’m trying to zip the thing up.
then you flip it right side out…
i started sewing the foundation last night; hopefully i will be able to finish that tonight! doesn’t it look weird? it is horsehair interfacing.
after the foundation, there is top facing, boning, the waist stay, and standing hemming/hook and eye. then i will be done!